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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    I saw the tool kit you probably got, it was a nice one. I bought a lower radio housing from the same guy. Gary
  2. dingy
    I just put a different spin on adapter on mine last week, and the o-ring has very little protrusion past the adapter. I really doubt it will seal if going up against a bent case. I would take Bob up on the suggestion to machine the groove wider right away and go up one step in the oring cross section. Gary
  3. dingy
    Remove the screw securing pedal linkage to pivot rod, pedal linkage will slide off. Would be a good idea to use a center punch to mark where slot is in relation to rod 1st. Need to unhook brake switch, there is a spring on rear side that engages switch. Unbolt master from frame so plunger can clear master. With pedal linkage off the arm can be slid towards center of frame to remove. Spring will need to be flexed around frame to get it off. Gary
  4. dingy
    Isn't going where no one has gone before fun. Like a box of chocolates. Never know what you are going to get. Gary
  5. dingy
    Does there feel like there is any binding in the linkage where it passes through the frame? One possible way to tell is to remove the 2 screws that hold the rear master to the frame, this will eliminate binding inside master cylinder as cause. With master loose, see if pedal travel is still tight. If it is, you will need to get that pivot point through frame cleaned up. Gary
  6. dingy
    VMax starter will work also. 1993 - 2007 Gary
  7. dingy
    Probably a good 3 coats of primer. The Yellow I used was a hard color to paint the Sherwin Williams guy told me. It was more expensive than a lot of colors and it was hard to get good hiding coverage. I only got a quart & half per receipt. used almost all off it. There was quart of black. A pint of flattining clear for some of the black parts. 2 different hardners, 2 quarts of reducer. A gallon of thinner. Quart of surface cleaner. 2 quarts of clear. Tape was some I got a Sherwin Williams. Not on this receipt. There was another thread somewhere that someone mentioned goof-off was not good to use for some reason. Just make sure it is cleaned off well. Gary
  8. dingy
    I have heard a couple of others say they could not get the saddlebag rims off. I didn't even try to get mine off. Just taped them. I just painted mine last weekend. The pin stripes were the interesting beginning. I had a spare fender to experiment on and found what worked for me. I started by using a heat gun from Harbor Freight and heating stripes in small sections at a time. I used a very thin putty knife to scrape the softened stripes off. This took the bulk of the stripe off, but left a somewhat gummy residue that was tough to remove. What I found that worked best was a 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner. I don't know if this is still avaliable as I have had this can for years. The active ingredient in it is Xylene & Naphtha. It still took some effort but the stripes did come off. I did try the decal remover wheel mentioned above, but it was to aggressive and was damaging the ABS plastic. Took 220 grit paper and sanded all around areas of pinstripes to level out the groove they left behind. Finish sanded everything with 320 paper. I used Sherwin Williams paint. 2 quarts of primer that was then sanded with 600 grit paper. 2 quarts of color. A little over a quart of clear coat. My total cost for paint & related hardeners & reducers was a little over $300. I'm not going to sand clear coat and buff. With all the sharp corners on the parts I don't want to end up cutting through paint and having to do touch ups, plus the small parts would be a real pain to secure & buff. I used an HVLP gun from Harbor freight and 2 packs of their disposable paint cups, these made cleanup much easier. You must get a charcoal respirator. It would have been intolerable without one. They are about $20. Some pictures of this process attached. Gary
  9. dingy
    Nothing is ever as simple as it sounds. The two that are tough to change are the left rear and left lower front. The upper front right & left have the triangular bracket that can be unbolted, and the right rear & right lower front can be accessed by removing the lower frame member. The other two have welded frame tabs that make changing these tough. Gary
  10. dingy
    Pictures attached of fuel sender. Gary
  11. dingy
    Bumping this one up. All you 1st genners should check yous side stand bolt for excessive looseness. If it is loose, first post shows a good way to fix it. Gary
  12. dingy
    The way you have described the switch, it sounds like an 88-89 one. They put a capacitor/choke in the ones for those 2 years in an attempt to reduce radio noise. The rear brake also has a capacitor/choke, but the clutch does not. Cut of schematic attached. Gary
  13. dingy
    I put in a set of aluminum ones last year and am very happy with them. I don't really notice any more vibration with them than what the stock mounts had. The bike seems more rigid with them and I have removed the small stiffener brackets that mount across the on either side of the frame that the side covers attach to.. You just about have to remove the motor to get all 6 in, 4 are easy, 2 aren't. PM SGN and see if he sold all he had made, I haven't seen him listing them, so he is probably out. Gary
  14. dingy
    There is a fine line between some functions & no functions. Link to thread below shows an 83 standard CMS being soldered, but the overall procedure for a 85 CMS will be similar. It would really be the first place to start. There is no separate fuse just feeding CMS. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33328 Gary
  15. dingy
    Start looking in the tech forum. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=14 It seems obvious, but there have been some people that weren't aware of this source of a lot of info. Gary
  16. dingy
    117.5 is stock on the 1200's. The 1300 have 125's in the mains. Gary
  17. dingy

    Clutch Cover

    dingy replied to Stanman's topic in Watering Hole

    A 1200 cover will not fit a 1300 motor. They are different overall width due to clutch spring differences. Gary
  18. dingy
    Picture attached. Gary
  19. dingy
    It won't hurt the bike one bit to set it there, it may sting a little when you actually rev the motor high enough to engage the rev limiter. To pick a rev limit setting, you need to know what the motor is capable of and where you are past the useful torque curve. Don't rev the motor with no load on it to see if it will hit the limiter. If you no load rev the motor, it can climb so rapidly, you can float a valve into a piston. Under power and you climb to higher RPM's you will feel the motor flatten out when you have reved it so high the valves start floating slightly. You need to really float the valves hard to get them to float into a piston. I have reved mine to the point of feeling them start to float, this is right at 10,000 rpms with fairly stock VMax heads and a modified block. The motor will flatten out on the torque curve well before this point though, so there is no point in routinely doing this. Most float damages happen at the 1~2 or 2~3 missed gear shifts. There is that uncontrolled full burst of power with no reaction time that will fubar a motor. Gary
  20. dingy
    An Obituary printed in the London Times Today we mourn the passing of a beloved old friend, Common Sense, who has been with us for many years. No one knows for sure how old he was, since his birth records were long ago lost in bureaucratic red tape. He will be remembered as having cultivated such valuable lessons as: - Knowing when to come in out of the rain; - Why the early bird gets the worm; - Life isn't always fair; - and maybe it was my fault. Common Sense lived by simple, sound financial policies (don't spend more than you can earn) and reliable strategies (adults, not children, are in charge). His health began to deteriorate rapidly when well-intentioned but overbearing regulations were set in place. Reports of a 6-year-old boy charged with sexual harassment for kissing a classmate; teens suspended from school for using mouthwash after lunch; and a teacher fired for reprimanding an unruly student, only worsened his condition. Common Sense lost ground when parents attacked teachers for doing the job that they themselves had failed to do in disciplining their unruly children. It declined even further when schools were required to get parental consent to administer sun lotion or an aspirin to a student; but could not inform parents when a student became pregnant and wanted to have an abortion. Common Sense lost the will to live as the churches became businesses; and criminals received better treatment than their victims. Common Sense took a beating when you couldn't defend yourself from a burglar in your own home and the burglar could sue you for assault. Common Sense finally gave up the will to live, after a woman failed to realize that a steaming cup of coffee was hot. She spilled a little in her lap, and was promptly awarded a huge settlement. Common Sense was preceded in death, by his parents, Truth and Trust, by his wife, Discretion, by his daughter, Responsibility, and by his son, Reason. He is survived by his 4 stepbrothers; I Know My Rights I Want It Now Someone Else Is To Blame I'm A Victim
  21. dingy

    Jeep owners?

    dingy replied to Skid's topic in Watering Hole

    Wife has an 06 Liberty. Gary
  22. dingy
    The 4 brush starter is defiantly an improvement over the 2 brush starter, by far. But it still has the same inherent design flaw that the 2 brush starter has. This is the plate that holds the brushes does not have a 'hard' path to ground. Both rely on 3 tangs on the brush plate to make good contact with the end bell housing, which is the path to ground. The starter lives in a rather harsh place on the bike. It is directly under the front exhaust headers. The starter is called upon to operate from whatever ambient temperature is, up to 250~300F. There are dissimilar metals in the contact plate to end bell connection surface, which expand & contract at slightly different rates, over thousands of high/low temperatures swings. This coupled with the starter possibly pulling 100 amps at initial start up and there is the very likely potential for carbon build up due to arcing (however slight) repeatedly. The 4 brush starter is harder to do the grounding modification to, as there is not a good point to fasten an eyelet to the brush plate. I silver soldered a piece of wire to the top of one of the brush holders on my 4 brush starter. Silver solder requires a lot more heat than standard solder, but will also stand up better under harsh environments. The use of a braided type wire would make this jumper much easier to do. Few pictures attached of starter brush plates. And this thread is in the 1st gen tech section at: VentureRider.Org > Technical Library - Read Only > First Gen Tech Library - READ ONLY! > Computer, Lights, Horns, Other Electrical Gary
  23. dingy
    Well depending on if GF makes it will certainly influence number of guys willing to share room !! Gary
  24. dingy
    First picture is location of mixture screw, yours may have a brass plug over hole in center of picture. If it does you drill a small hole in brass plug & start a screw in new hole, then pull plug out with screw. 2nd picture shows idle mixture screw in lower right laying on bar. Gary
  25. dingy
    I got not much for this. Attached picture shows it in general, but no specific pinouts. Gary
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