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  1. First off - Thank you all for your knowledge, advice, and tech docs. I've on week 8 of my 1983 Venture project. You can't place a price on the critical this forum has been. Full Disclosure - My previous motorcycle project was a few years ago on a 84 GoldWing that I literally found in a barn next to cattle. It had been there for almost a decade. The PO won it a poker game, but didn't actual ride motorcycles, so he parked in the barn and left it. The only reason he found it is because he built a new barn and was about to tear it down. So a little history of the bike as I come to know it. 83 VXZ1200 - 33K miles; Been sitting for 8+ years. I found it in a trailer park in KY. It was in pretty bad shape. Probably worse than the GoldWing, but all the parts where there. Even got all the plastics. Sun faded, cracked and in pieces, but they were there. So this is the kind of project that is right up my alley. I get it home and start going through it. Engine would crank, brakes were shot, carbs were broken - no just clogged - physically broken (how in the world to do you even break a multiple carb bodies!) and the gas tank looked like someone poured a bag of potting soil in it. I've never seen a gas tank with 2" of solid gunk. The bike did come with brand new tires and a service manual. I'm thankful for both. So far I've: Replaced the carbs with a set I got off eBay that came off a 1983 XVZ1200. I did clean and rebuild them. Set each idle screw to 2 1/4, re-synced with Motion Pro II and Vacuum Gauges. Cleaned the gas tank. That took several hours with pressure washer and at some points I had to take a hammer and long chisel to break that gunk free. All new fuel lines and a clear see-through Advance Auto Universal fuel filter (so I can monitor it). FYI - it actual fit holder by the fuel pump New spark plugs. Autolite 4164 gaped at 35. I didn't replace the wires, but I did clip the wire ends at the coil packs. Strange enough - the previous spark plugs where gaped at 23 (instead of 32). Clean the wires to the CDI module. The coolant was bright green, I flushed it anyway. Just a normal water flush (no chemicals) and I went back with the normal green stuff. Soldiered the CMU, fixed a broken soldier on the hazard switch, install the battery bypass resistor Fix H4 Headlight connector - somebody switched the hi/low beam wires (just why??) Upgraded the fuse box to a new blade style fuse box. I had to do it. The PO had remove the old fuse box and crimped the wires directly to the blades of the fuses! The brakes where already separated and the rear master cylinder just needed a good flush. Rebuild the front master cylinder, installed brand new brake lines, along with new brake pads all the way around. Rebuild both front calipers. Spend close to 40hrs just repairing the plastics. They look okay. Yes, there are some hidden zip ties in certain places. Installed a really neat stereo and speakers that sound amazing. Crystal clear even at 65mph. (I'll save that for another post) I've changed the oil three times so far. I believe consecutive oil changes in close session is the safest way to clean engine. I stay away from all chemical engine cleaners. I also installed one of those USB ports that has the voltage read out. That voltage readout comes in very handy. Repaired the 3 white stator wires. They were actually twisted together, duck taped, and shoved in the gap by the tank. two of the wires had came loose. I soldiered the wires and used two lays of heat shrink tubing. I do believe that the list I may have forgotten a few things. Had some major headaches and long nights along the way but that was due to lack of maintenance and overall lack of knowledge of the bike itself. I also took plenty of pictures along the way. Kinda like a small photo journal. Overall - This bike is a monster!!! I've never ridden anything quite like it. I would have never imagined it would have so much power. It rides like a dream. It has totally exceeded my expectations in every way. My wife likes it way better than my GoldWing and so do I. I'm a true cruiser, I shift between 3-4000 RPM's. Little did I know how quick this bike gets to 3000 RPM. You barely have to twist the throttle. I took it out one night and really got on it pretty hard... totally different bike. It was like riding my Kawasaki Concurs. I swear the front wheel came off the ground at one point. I'd like to meet the individual that has actual went WOT. I tried - I almost hit 80MPH is second. Scared me a little bit. Shouldn't be able to do that with a full bagger LOL! I'm still learning the bike, so I catch myself trying to kick into 6th gear every so often. But it felt safe and it didn't fade or shy away. So yea, I'm totally sold on this bike. I'm truly impressed and I'm glad I own it. It was definitely time and money well spend. Okay - so to the issue I need some help with. This bike starts great, runs like a mad bull, no pops or pings, no back fires, no warning lights, and runs pretty cool for what it's worth. But I have a strange issue when I come to a stop. The idle will drop and the engine will start bogging down. The tach falls to zero and doesn't move. It will eventually bog down low enough and die. Previously it did not do that. It idled at 1000 and didn't budge. I can play with the idle screw and get the tach to bounce between 1000 and zero (even the engine rpm is steady). Now it will idle at 1500 rpm just fine, but that's way too high for my taste. I have no drive-ability or ride-ability issues. From the point you take off to the point you come to a stop, the bike runs flawlessly. It's only when you squeeze the clutch it will drop. But not every time. Some times you will come to a stop and it will idle right on 1000, then a few seconds later the tack will drop to zero and it will start to bog down. As soon as you take off, it's like nothing ever happened. I've ran a can of seafoam through it. I've reset the idle screws, I've check the sync on the carbs, replaced the plugs again, replaced the fuel filter again, adjusted the linkage cables, cleaned all the grounds, charged the battery, drained the tank, and changed the oil (4th time). Went though an entire can of carb cleaner, searching for vacuum leaks and didn't discover any. There still may be a vacuum leak, but I just didn't find it somehow. Checked the carb slides and diaphragms. It has gotten better. I can find a sweet spot on the idle screw when it warm and it will not die. The tach will be still be at zero, but the engine sounds like it is at 1000 rpms. I can't figure this out for the world. I have rode a total of 516 miles since I put it on the road. This issue didn't develop until I ran seafoam through it around the 300 mile point. I took the bike out tonight and rode 60 miles on the highway at 70mph. it rode like a dream. Shifted perfectly, temp gauge was a little above half, voltage stayed between 13.8 and 13.9 (thanks to that little gauge). It was quite and smooth but the issue was still there when I came to a red light. It didn't die, but it did bog down and the tach went straight to zero. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
  2. I know it's been some time since I've posted, but the ole girl has been running well for several years now...until now. I just returned from a long motorcycle road trip (5k mi) and knew she needed a sync, which I did. No biggy. The real problem is that she's developed an intermittent misfire at idle. It's not bad, the idle just sounds uneven, and with the timing light you can see the spark skip every couple seconds when idling...and all 4 cylinders have the miss. If it was just 1 cylinder, that might be easier to diagnose. With all 4 cylinders sporadically missing, I'm at a loss. The bike has plenty of power, and runs like it should...except at idle. No backfires, no trouble starting, typical gas mileage. Has anyone ever noticed an intermittent miss like this, and might anyone have any guess as to the cause? Thank you for any suggestions you might have!
  3. So I successfully installed an el cheapo tach from Harbor Freight. Basically I used the cheapie as an excuse to create a wire harness for a nicer tach in the future. I used the yellow wire from the right rear coil as suggested by coop for the trigger and ran the other wires into a length of 3/8" split flex tubing, under the tank, up to the triple trees where I'll be installing a 4-5 pin plug. For now it's hard wired, but you get the idea. The tach works "perfectly", smooth sweep and very responsive. The yellow wire was an excellent choice, thanks coop! My question is, does my bike idle at 400RPM? I thought I read somewhere they idle around 1000ish. Or no? The rev limiter is set around 6000RPM but on this tach, to me, 2000RPM is painful...I almost never push that hard before a shift.. I think it reads low...confirm? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4MMoKy6I3Y
  4. bike is stumbling at idle, dropping down in rpms, them back up. over and over. bike is warm. i replaced the plugs, relatively new wires, new to me tci. any ideas?
  5. I have been playing around with the carb set-up on my VentureMax (1300 engine with Vmax cams and springs). The latest experiment is Vmax needles and .5mm spacers. I have not rode it much with this set-up yet; Needs a little choke for cold starting Idle appears to be lean (surges slightly at idle and pops during deceleration) Pulls smooth and strong from 1500 rpm in second Pulled a little "crisper" from 1500 rpm with stock needles Pulls strong from 3,000 rpm (any gear) Ran it up to 9,000 rpm in second and it wanted to keep going!
  6. with crapy ethanol gas after warm up it wants to die at idle 950 rpm with real gas it wants to idle around 1500 to 2000 rpm when at normal operating temps any ideas oh real possible answers only Yammer Dan an Flyinfool :no-no-no: :rotf:
  7. My 2004 RSMV has developed a fluctuating idle, which seems to get worse the warmer the engine gets. It surges 800-1200 on the tach, and up to about 1500 rpm, then smooths out. I'm due for a valve adjustment and am planning to do that soon, but this happened suddenly, in the middle of a ride. I didn't start gradually and get worse. I pulled the carbs and removed the bowls and sprayed everything I could get to with carb cleaner, checked the float levels (all were good) and changed the fuel filter. I didn't split the carbs or completely tear them down yet. Air filters are fine, and I'll probably do plugs just to rule them out. I'm currently running some B12 thru it, and it seems a little better, but it's still there. Hoping this rings a bell for someone. I'm going to do a complete tear down on the carbs when I do the valves, and re sync if no one has any other ideas. Thanks for the help. Jon
  8. I had the pleasure of cleaning the carbs on my 83 last weekend and found that someone had already been into them before, removing the blind plugs to expose the idle mixture screws. The mixture screws were all at different settings. I had one a 2 turns out, another at 2 3/4 turns, another at 3 truns, and the last one at 4 turns out. I'm betting someone has been messing with these in the bikes history and at least a couple of these are no longer at the factory setting. Now for my real question. Given that 2 -2.5 turns is suppose to be the magic number on the idle mixture screws, and the fact that these have already been messed with and I cannot return them to their orignal settings. What are your thoughts moving forward? I'm thinking set them all to 2.25 turns and then try to tune each one individually using max vacuum readings like I do on a car. Any other ideas on how to properly tune each carb?
  9. My 1983 venture will stall hear and there, when idles too long cough and weez when giving gas but will rev up. When gas is low wont start very easy. The idle is up and down. Could it be my fuel pump? Watch the fuel filter and gas was popping ever 5 or so seconds.
  10. two weeks ago I had a problem i know others have had. It was a hot night and the idle on my bike started to go up. I could not get it down so headed home . there i lubed all my throttle cables and choke linkages then finally readjusted my idle getting it down to around 1000 rpms. i latter realized this may have been a vacuum leak problem and have seen that suggested here by others as well. What I'm looking for here is a previous thread from someone that may have had this problem and hunted down the offending vacuum line so i know where to look and how to fix it to prevent it from happening again. oddly this only happens when its hot. So if anyone knows of a thread like this could you point me in that direction?? Thanks a lot. I like the 86 a lot I have headset for the com system and love the whole set up the bike still has a few bugs to work out from sitting for 5 years but She runs great and I'm enjoying every minute. While working on the radio i did find a cozy mouse nest under the cassette player unit. Luckily not residents at the time.
  11. Bought a 1987 Venture Royale less than 48 hrs ago. I paid $1750 knowing that there would be a few issues to fix. She seemed to run great during my test drive. However, I have found a few thing that need fixing since I have put a few miles on her yesterday. I also discovered the service manual for the bike and have just about read it from cover to cover. Major Thanks to whoever uploaded that gem. Just a bit of history.... The bike used to be ridden daily, until the po before the po decided not to ride anymore for what reason. So, it sat for a while and was no longer running. The plastics and stuff started falling apart as it sat in thee unbearable Texas sun. The guy I bought it from, picked it up and got it running again. New throttle cable, breaks, oil, air cleaner and the lik. He replaced or "repaired" the broken plastics as best as he knew how. So, I have an awesome bike with 75000 miles on it that needs a bit more tlc. My goal is to ride it to and from work as much as possible (50 miles each way) and to take rides with my wife and son. Any help/advice would be appreciated in my quest to restore this beauty to her former glory. If there is anyone who lives around Houston, tx that would be willing to help guide me through the fixes, lend a hand, or help me find parts, etc, your time and efforts would be well rewarded (I brew my own beer) and appreciated. List of known issues: CLASS air pressure drops in front (rapidly) Radio/tape deck issues (possibly replace) Idle issues - when warm, idles so low that it dies, or it won't idle down , backfiring/popping noises at idle or throttle let-off, etc Electronic cruise control isn't working. Lights come on, but won't set cruise. Speedometer just started bouncing around until it warms up. Battery needs to be replaced (or charging system fixed) and red flashing light needs to be fixed. A lot of cosmetic issues. I am not sure where to start and where to find the parts I need. Guidance would be appreciated as to what repairs to affect first and in order of importance. And pictures are what we all want..... [ATTACH]68026[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]68027[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]68028[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]68029[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]68030[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]68031[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]68032[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]68033[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]68034[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]68035[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]68037[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]68038[/ATTACH] Thank you for taking the time to look at my long post.
  12. I installed the 2012 stock Harley muffler's all went on well but never thought they would be that loud for stock muffler's. They have a great sound to them and you know when you get on it. They have a nice rumble at idle and feels like it gained some power too. Hope GF is ok with them or I might have to get a little quiter.
  13. I consider myself very good with these carbs but I have a problem that has me a little stumped. I was out of town for a week, came home, started the bike as usual, a little choke and she fired right up and sang like a bull gator. After she warmed up, choke off, sitting idling while on the side-stand, the idle started decreasing and fuel barely trickled out of the overflow and the engine died. The fuel stopped. Restarted and once at idle, same thing happened, smooth perfect throttle response, no other symptoms. Stood the bike upright, started it again and same thing happened at idle. With any throttle at all it is fine. I think you can rule out floats and needles as the fuel stopped when the engine died. I suspect it may be a pinhole in the #1 carb diaphragm but I am guessing that would not normally kill the engine. With extra fuel, I didn't have any rough engine run like I would have expected. This one has me guessing! I think I will order a new set of DS-1s as I have never replaced all of the diaphragms at the same time, only as needed and I am thinking that they stiffen with age and one could be stronger than another. All inputs are welcome!
  14. Okay, I've done some research on this. I've been looking for a vacuum leak, tomorrow I'm going to pull the air box and look at the butterflies, the choke seems to be closing all the way with the lever positioned off. What I'm running into is that recently the idle has started increasing on its own as the engine warms up. It starts out at about 900-1000, and by the time it's warmed up in about 10 minutes, it's run up to about 2000 rpm. If I goose it quickly, there's no hesitation, and it'll come back down to about 1300 rpm, then ease its way back up to 2000. I don't have any tools to adjust the carb sync, but is there anything else I may be able check on my own? Thanks
  15. I picked up a digital multi-meter from Canadian Tire ($150) that came with an inductive pickup thinking for that price I'd have no problem doing an rpm reading for tune-ups. What I found was that the reading at idle would jump all over the place in the range of 300rpm to 1500rpm. Repositioning the pick-up didn't fix it and I couldn't get a steady reading. Need a recommendation on a tach/multi-meter that will give a steady reading and is usable for setting the idle on the RSV. I've seen the Harbor Freight on online ($30 - http://www.harborfreight.com/lcd-automotive-multimeter-with-tachometer-kit-95670.html ) but is it any good / usable? What is recommended or used by members ? I like the look of the Baron's 1" tach that mounts on the resevoir but don't want to spend that much money and don't really need a permanent unit. Just want a simple removable (multi-meter or dedicated to just rpm) tach for the times I synch my carbs.
  16. Well, fork seals... non issue... those will be fixed in time... just need to make sure I got oil with me. But... heres current... pressing issue, current today. Bike idles fine. she'll idle 900-1000K ok. After getting warmed up tho, really well... the idle likes to stick high, 2K area. Today she stuck at 2500, I turn the engine off, turn the engine back on, she starts up and idles around 1, 1.2K What gives? Also happen to get crappier MPG now -.-' 29-31... before it was 35 average right up until we had to garage her this year. We've replaced the caps. I got cracked intake manifolds tho... I can probably clean the K&N AF. Could it be the Ignitech TCI?
  17. I've read lots of different threads about turning pilot jet screws from 1 3/4 turns out all the way to 3 turns. So, how can you tell what "your happy number" of turns out is? What is the deciding factor? Will this effect gas mileage or is it something else? Part 2 of this thread: I'm trying to get the mileage up out of the 31 range. I've changed plugs, Seafoamed 7 tankfuls, tried sync'ing 3 times and have finally got her to idle and run decent. But it's still touchy with the choke in the cold mornings. The other question is when sync'ing, at what rpm should it be? Idling or 2000 rpms? And when I think the sync is complete, (I do crack throttle during adjustments) my levels are constantly changing after that when I crack the throttle and let it settle back to idle. I mean everything gets wacky again. Never a consistant reading on any cylinders. '86 Royale, 40,000 miles and homemade sync tool, board with tubing & trans fluid, 143 assorted bugs on windshield - 97.6% of those smashed flat allowing minimal wind resistance @60 mph.
  18. I picked up an 86 royale this March and it wouldn't idle. Run down the highway but still wasn't really true Venture. I read about Seafoam and after 6 bottles, 700 miles of riding 'er hard (the bike, not wife) it still ran like crap at idle. I saw post after post about "Sync it" and still I didn't believe. I chased all kinds of imagined electrical issues, changed spark plugs, ohm'd wires and still it sounded like it was missing. Last night, I finally decided to build a poor man's sync tool with tubing and trans fluid. To my amazement when I started it, the 4th cylinder tried to suck all the fluid out. After 40 minutes of tweeking, it's purring like a kitten with it's tail on fire. Moral: Listen to the experts on here, they're wise beyond what is shown and SYNC your carbs, dammit. thanks guys
  19. So, last fall I changed the carb. diaphragms out in the 86. Found one with a slight crimp on the edge but no holes or problems. It was more of a preventative measure. Did a carb synch and set the idle circuits using the idle rpm drop method. Bike felt smooth and good power. However, my fuel mileage dropped from 40 commuting to 37. i run about 60-70 miles a day from work to home. The measured mpg is cold start with choke and all speeds. I could smell the exhaust as being a bit rich. Tried adjusting the idle screws to no avail. Fast forward to maintenence day. I have a set of needle shim washers and a color tune with me. MikeZ and I changed out the washers and set the synch again. It looked pretty good. I could also tell that there was a difference by the choke lever settings. The colortune needs modification to work on the venture. So, did not touch the idle settings. On the way back to San Antonio I got 37 heading into a wind. I used almost a gallon less fuel than Mike did on his 1989. Now, it had more luggage on board and did have a bit of an afterfire. Next week it was back to commuting to work. Checked several tanks of fuel and found I am up to 41mpg! And the rich smell at idle is gone. So my suspicion is that the replacement diaphragm are not only a bit stiffer than the originals, but possibly a bit thicker. Plug color is good. Next stop is figuring out a good way to use the colortune on the V-4. JB
  20. My "new to me" 05 RS Midnight Venture would not run off choke when I picked it up a month ago. After draining the old gas, new plugs and running a few tanks with seafoam through it it will now run off choke once fully warmed up. However it's still not right. Takes a long time before choke can be full off, idle is rough, can hear it missing and lacks power right off idle. Once rpm's come up a little it screams. Today I decided to pull the carbs for cleaning. Is there a write up on adjusting the floats (they all seem to be too high) and the mixture screws (they were set from 1.5 to 3.25 turns)? Also anyone have any tips on separating the carbs to make it easier to disassemble for cleaning? Thanks
  21. I have looked and looked and I cant find this screw. I just picked up an 89 and it runs well enough but I swear that it has a lean idle. The previous owner told me that his Yamaha dealer rebuilt the carbs but I don't know what they did or didn't do. I think that they left it too lean. It requires full choke when cold and takes at least 2-3 times as long as my 86 to come off of choke. Also when pulling out from a stop, it requires more throttle and lags a small bit until it gets going. And this is after it is warmed up. Accelerating while moving is laggy for the first 15% of the throttle. I read in a thread that three turns out on the idle screw is a good place to be. Is this a good method or should I just drive the bike to PA to see Earl?
  22. Just bought a 2000 Venture with 24,500 miles on her. I drove the bike from Knoxville,Tn. to Williamsburg,va. about 540 miles and averaged 41 MPG. I like the comfort and "stuff" radio//cruise etc, and the performance etc. The bike had sat for 7 months and I ran 6oz each of seafoam through 2 tanks of gas which helped the low speed idle some but: THE BIKE WILL NOT IDLE OFF OF CHOKE. This gets hairy in traffic or slowing down on a ramp. Actually I am getting pretty good at left hand choke control (manually)--in seriousness this is dangrerous. The stealer says it just needs a fuel service check up which is $320.00 plus parts--thank you very much. I can wrench a little and from the threads I have read so far It sounds like I should do plugs 1st which I would do anyway.The owners manual looks a little vaque. The general condidtion of the bike is good but needs a real goof clean up. Out on the road at 70 she seemed in her element it just doen not want to idle off choke. Any advise would be appreciated. This is my 10th Bike in 6 years I think I found a keeper. ED:thumbsup2:
  23. Went on a ride today. Hoped to get in maybe 400 miles. After about 100 miles I started to get a backfile at idle when I would slow down into small towns, then it got progressively worse.. Zero power at idle, in order to take off from a stop you have to rev it to 2000 rpm. turned around to head home. It has power and feels right at highway speeds, by the time I got home, it was kicking in and out at highway speed and I'm getting surging as if a cyl is working, not working, working, not working.... At idle, it's popping like crazy and idling very poorly. Am I losing a coil? or is it the Ignition computer that needs some TLC? 83 std, well maintained, I do not have any ground wire upgrades. It does start a bit hard when hot.
  24. And its not hello you are welcome! 1987 venture royale, 126,000 miles. I put 12,000 miles the summer before with grin always plastered to face! Beautiful ride, love the cruise control and radio. Wanting to raise my idle speed this summer, I located what seemed the "general screw" after turning the throttle that would do this on the carbs. I upped the idle speed and to my horror the motor started to knock. I backed the screw to what I thought was the original position but the knock is still there and has stayed with me the rest of the summer. My mileage went for a dump big time, down from 175 miles/tank to 145/tank. The knock does not seem to be "location specific" ie.: one piston/left/right side. I can remember tuning cars (dad was a mechanic) in the seventies with the first emission cars where turning the distributor to set timing, you could induce knock. Have I inadvertently done this and how do I proceed to get rid of this? Tanx!
  25. Ok heres my problem, For 2 years straight now this bike has puked a battery. First was an original honda t type battery and now its a uasa that was installed new in feb. Went to crank the bike 2 days ago and it was dead. Checked the water and refilled with distileed water, jumped the bike and let it idle for close to an hr. BIked cranked back up after I cut it off so figured all is well. Today tried again same thing except water level was good. so put on the trickle charger thinking it just didnt get enough charge as it was showing 11.7 volts after 2 days setting static at 22 degress in the am. Charged for a few hrs and bike cranked wright up with full power. This is the same thing that happend on the first battery too. Heres where i get confused. I put the multimeter on the battery at idle and its charging at 13.4 volts. Brought up the revs( no tach so just brought it up) and ay first the meter went to 20.06 volts and then dropped to 12.6 volts. Ilet it idle again and meter went back up to 13.4 volts. I then did an unscientific test and noticed every time I rev the bike and set the thumb lock to hold it the head light gets a little dimmer. Volt meter also drop back to 12 or so volts every time. Did this multiple times and never seen and thing over 13.4 volts and thats always at idle. I checked the meter on my 91 vr and it showed just over 12 at idle and 14.1 at 3000 rpm so Im thinking meter is good. Round about the same numbers when it was checked on the e-250. So with all this Im thinking either a bad stator or voltage regulater. Any ideas. Help please as this is her bike and Id really like to get it wright for her. She will ride mine but shes scared of the weight . She has a hard time bringing it up to center and then her toes just barely touch. Any ideas are apreciated. Tahnks in advance David
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