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VR Assistance

  1. Can someone please tell where I can purchase a set of the Carb Sync gages?
  2. Does anyone have a carb sync tool I could borrow or possibly buy? I took the carbs off the bike to do the valve adjustment and I cleaned up the carbs some too. When i got them back on and the bike running it pops out of the right pipe. When i take the little rubber boot off of the sync nipple it'll rev up momentarily but there really is no change. Took a little Brake parts cleaner and sprayeed it in the hole and she smoked a little but never idled up or down. I dont trust any of the shops in my town and I know i need the carbs synced. I'm just hoping it'll take care of the problem
  3. Built a digital sync and you can, too! After reading this forum about installing an aftermarket TCI and in other places about easy to use microprocessing platforms, it occurred to me that one might be able to use multiple MAP sensors to set the carb sync on a bike. I'm no expert on either motorcycles or electronics, so it had to be easy if I was going to do it. And it was easy. The hardest thing for me was figuring out what certain connectors are called and then finding a reasonable source. Point your search engine at “arduino” or go directly to this link: www.arduino.cc to get an idea for the microprocessing end of this. I used the Arduino Uno R3. You can use any, but you'll have to modify my program or write your own. In particular, if you use the kind of LCD display connection I did (IIC) it interferes with two of the ports on the board. On the Uno it's analog 4 and 5, leaving a nice grouping of 0-3 for my 4 sensors to connect. My end goal is to remove the LCD and use a wireless smartphone as the display. When I get that working then this thing could do a 6 carb bike. Goldwing heaven! (On the Leonardo board it's digital 2 and 3.) Here's the parts list. I'll edit this post to improve accuracy as I can. The hard parts (for me): MAP sensors. I found 6 old GM 1 bar MAP sensors for $40 on Ebay and was quite happy. 6 3-tower GM weather-pack housings with male connectors. Spendy with rip-off shipping. You don't really need the plastic housing. You can just solder wires to loose male connectors, and maybe use some heat shrink to tidy up. Save big $$. The rest: Arduino Uno R3. $23. Arduino IDE software (free download). Sensor shield (optional - makes connections easier). $10. LCD IIC display 4x20. $7. 4 count 3-wire board connectors with one end removed and soldered to the weather-packs. $5. 1 count 4-wire board connector to attach the LCD with the +/- polarity rewired. $2. 2 feet 1/4” hose. Cut into 6” lengths and attached to the MAPs. 10 feet 3/16” hose. 4 count ¼ to 3/16 connectors. $5. 4 count caps for the 3/16 hose. $3. The Arduino IDE includes sample programs. I modified one that keeps a running average for input smoothing to load arrays of readings for each cylinder and calculate the peak and average readings. I'm an old software guy but never something like this and never in C. But those old skills came in handy and I wasn't shy about this part. The Arduino doesn't report overflow errors at compile or run time, so I had to do a little digging to debug odd results. For example, if I set the readings array to more than 180, the LCD stopped working. What I figured out was that the sensitivity scale of the readings multiplied by the number of readings had to be less than the max integer value (32k) or it would overflow. If the array got too big the RAM would overflow. I could change to long integers or floating point math I suppose. I could change to a chip or board with more memory because there is a memory size limitation. My rainy weather project will be to go back through and clean up the code. Basically, I just hacked my way forward and didn't worry about the elegance of the code like I did when I was working in software. I didn't know how the compiler or board really worked so why worry about style. The key thing I did was code a self-calibration step. The first time through loading the reading array (with the bike not running), it takes an average of the average of all the MAPS and uses that to establish a calibration adjustment to be applied to all subsequent readings. This way all the MAP sensor circuits are normed to a constant value. It could be normed to zero, but then negative numbers would be more common. To test this live, I hooked up all 4 MAP sensors in turn to the same cylinder on a running bike to see if it would return a consistent value. It did. The nice thing is that build precision is less of a factor which is great for me. It just works with what you have for MAP sensors, wire harness and soldering skills. Assembly is just plugging the shield into the top of the Uno, then plugging in the LCD and the 4 MAP sensors. For power I plugged in a cigarette adapter into my battery maintainer plug, plugged a USB converter into that, and ran a USB cable to the Uno. There are other ways but I had all this handy. The software was already loaded; you just plug the USB into the computer running the IDE and upload. At power up it does the calibration and when you hit the reset button. Nothing to lose by trying. I hooked up 4 hoses to the bike and capped them. Then I tested #1 against all 4 sensors. It read the same, about 159 peak. Then I hooked all 4 up. The bike was in good sync, which I knew because it runs good. But I tweaked all 3 sync adjustments to get them the same. Everything ended up peaking at 158-159. Then I capped the hoses and tested #3 against all 4 sensors. All the same. After that I took it for a ride. Seemed smoother but it was running great already. The numbers don't really mean anything. They depend on how 'sensitive' the software is set. The MAP sensors run at 5v and drop the signal voltage from that as vacuum increases. The UNO board reads an analog voltage and returns a range of integer values. The rest is software. One nice thing - you can crack the throttle without worries. In fact, since you can compare manifold pressure at higher RPMs you may get some diagnostic value if you've got pin holes in a diaphragm or a sticky slide. Hopefully, some engine experts will weigh in on that notion or with better ideas. Things to consider. If you can't find cheap MAP sensors, don't bother. They should all be the same or similar, but the calibration step allows for variances. Try to get the weather-pack connectors included because you'll go broke if you have to buy a small quantity at full retail. If anyone has a better source please let me know. Late 80's GM cars in a junkyard may be a good place to start. There are also less expensive vacuum sensors available for non-automotive applications that are not as rugged. Everything you need can be bought online if you know what to call it. The board connector names still elude me. I just bought stuff until I had something that worked. I'll post the code in a subsequent post. I will be glad for suggestions. I will be especially interested in a) how to build a cool enclosure and b) thoughts about better analysis techniques. I would never post it anywhere else, because the purists would flame you. But this forum is different. Best $12 ever! Lots of pix. If there's a better way to post them I don't know it. Tom
  4. No, I don't mean working on carbs. I recently came into possession of a (used) MP3 player. Now, I still like vinyl and 8 tracks. This little trinket had a bunch of music in it, about 140 songs, none of which was to my liking. I discovered that I could plug it in to a USB port and figured out how to delete the stuff that was on it. I have now "ripped" two of my CD's onto the computer and I'm gradually learning to "sync" them onto the MP3 player. This may not seem like much to many of you, I know there are some of you to whom this kind of technology is like second nature. But when I can play "my" music on the GL1800 using a little gadget not much bigger than my thumb, I figure I've made a giant leap towards entering the 21st century. No cassette player or CD player. What I don't know is, do I have to carry a supply of AAA batteries to power this thing, or is there some way of running it on the power from the bike?
  5. Finished up the 87 last Friday and got her back on the road. She seemed to be running fine but I didn't get a chance to put some miles on her until Tuesday. So, Tuesday I rode up to Dahlonega to visir RandyR and do a carb sync. On the ride up she was running great, with great acceration and no sign of the 4200rpm stumble that she had been having. But, she is still sucking gas at 28MPG (1up averageing 70mph on interstate). :doh:When we hooked the carb tune up #3 was pegging and the others were fairly close. We did the carb sync and I headed back towing my trailer. The ride back got about the same mileage (1up towing trailer averging about 60MPH and about 30 miles of stop start in traffic) I had really hoped that finding and correcting the loose main jet tube on #4 and new main jet tube orings on all four would have corrected the MPG problem but it didn't. I did notice some black soot at the exhaust tips. I'm now thinking one or more weak or faulty coils. I'm about to go out and pull the plugs to read the fuel burn conditions. I'll post pictures of the results as soon as I do. All help and suggestions are greatly appreciated.
  6. If this has been asked already, I'm sorry. I searched and didn't run across this particular question. I have an 84 VXVZ12, and after a year of working on the bike it's running pretty well. The problem is that I can sync the carbs and it will purr like a kitten, but after a couple days of spirited riding it's running a little bit rough. Not enough to suspect anything new, so I just sync it again. Then the cycle repeats. Any ideas why? Anyone else have this issue?
  7. I have a '06 RSTD. I need the cards synced on it as they are not "carbing" right, , , LOL. Is there anyone in the East Texas area that knows how to and would sync them for me. I would be more than happy to pay or buy dinner or trade my first born male child, , , I am in Diana, 15 miles north of Longview, Tx.
  8. Was doing a carb sync last night getting ready for a day ride tomorrow and four day trip beginning next Thursday. Normally I can get the sync done quickly, but this time the motor ran a little bit longer than ususal and the "FAN" kicked on. I am sure it's been on before but never paid much attention. This time however there was a "Loud Rattleing' sound like something was loose or had fallen into the area of the FAN and was caught there. Is there an easy way to check this without tearing down the whole front, end. Lowers, Seat, Tank, etc. Of course I turned it off for about 5 minutes, Made sure oil and coolant were OK and started back up. Runs GREAT but of course this time the FAN did not cycle on? Thoughts Long Tall Lynchburg, VA
  9. ok i'm looking to do a carb sync on my scoot and just cant afford the tool or having the dealership do the work. (Have you seen the price of gas I comute 2 hours everyday for work) so anyway I found this great DIY carb sync tool seems more accurate then the the tube and oil method. great walkthrough on how to make your own. http://faq.ninja250.org/index.php/Is_there_a_carb_sync_tool%3F
  10. I made one of these and it works perfectly. I used old motor oil for the liquid. Sync #1 to #2, then plug those and sync #3 to #4. Then hook up tool to #2 and #4 to sync left side to right side (make sure to plug ports on #1 and #3).
  11. I stumbled across a couple of vacum gauges I had in the drawer. If I was to use these to sync up the carbs do I do the left 2 carbs together, then the right 2 and then connect the gauges to say the front left and front right and match them up. That is what I get from the sync article I read here, if I break it down right.
  12. Hello All, I'd like to think i'm not a complete idiot (perhaps this is merely wishful thinking)... I have a '96 RS (boulevard?) and i belive is a XVZ13A. http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/2012-07-20_11-40-40_132.jpg I have the had this bike only for a couple of weeks and have been pretty happy with it other than the pesky vibration in 4th and 5th gears. I have read (and have been told) that i need to sync my carbs, so i bought a motion pro (i've read that the glycol will stick to the tubes of the gage and sure enough they do and i already wish i had gotten a morgan carbtune). At any rate, after calibrating the tool and hooking it up to the carbs the sync looked like this. http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/2012-07-29_14-15-33_156.jpg So i began to sync the carbs using this page from my clymer manual http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/2012-07-29_20-14-38_307.jpg However, this page is very different than the carb sync in some of the tchnical lbraries here as well as on Venturers http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002010&id=311 Well, to say the least i never got the carbs sync'd correctly and it's now worse. The screw to sync 1-2 worked perfect but the others adjustments didn't work correctly. Though i haven't ridden it, it backfires and pops and smells "hot" (lean) after adjusting the "A" screw to sync 4-3 and then the "B" screw to sync 2-4. Can anyone with a '96 tell me if the page from the book that i have attached is correct? If not can anyone tell me what the "A" and the "B" screws do on my bike so i can get them back to what they should be? Thanks in advance all. John
  13. Had it done yesterday and they were perfect. No adjustment needed. They did sync the carbs though. Whole job was $391. 5.2 hours labor.
  14. I've read lots of different threads about turning pilot jet screws from 1 3/4 turns out all the way to 3 turns. So, how can you tell what "your happy number" of turns out is? What is the deciding factor? Will this effect gas mileage or is it something else? Part 2 of this thread: I'm trying to get the mileage up out of the 31 range. I've changed plugs, Seafoamed 7 tankfuls, tried sync'ing 3 times and have finally got her to idle and run decent. But it's still touchy with the choke in the cold mornings. The other question is when sync'ing, at what rpm should it be? Idling or 2000 rpms? And when I think the sync is complete, (I do crack throttle during adjustments) my levels are constantly changing after that when I crack the throttle and let it settle back to idle. I mean everything gets wacky again. Never a consistant reading on any cylinders. '86 Royale, 40,000 miles and homemade sync tool, board with tubing & trans fluid, 143 assorted bugs on windshield - 97.6% of those smashed flat allowing minimal wind resistance @60 mph.
  15. I picked up an 86 royale this March and it wouldn't idle. Run down the highway but still wasn't really true Venture. I read about Seafoam and after 6 bottles, 700 miles of riding 'er hard (the bike, not wife) it still ran like crap at idle. I saw post after post about "Sync it" and still I didn't believe. I chased all kinds of imagined electrical issues, changed spark plugs, ohm'd wires and still it sounded like it was missing. Last night, I finally decided to build a poor man's sync tool with tubing and trans fluid. To my amazement when I started it, the 4th cylinder tried to suck all the fluid out. After 40 minutes of tweeking, it's purring like a kitten with it's tail on fire. Moral: Listen to the experts on here, they're wise beyond what is shown and SYNC your carbs, dammit. thanks guys
  16. Hey All, Anyone in the GTA (west end) with a carb sync tool to loan?
  17. Does anyone have any experience with Mastertech Motorsports in San Antonio, Tx? I ask because I need a carb sync and they offered to do the sync for $65. Seemed reasonable and the gentleman I spoke with seemed to know alot about the VR. Any and all comments are welcome.
  18. I have an 83 Venture Royale.I am having trouble with a lack of power once I reach 60 miles per hour.I took the carbs off and went through them.I have used sea foam to clean them.My question is how do you bench sync the carbs?I want to do that before I put them back on and sync the carbs.The bike sat for the winter and I am having problems for the first time.They have been acting up since I had to pull them to change the valve cover gaskets.Any advice would be great.Thanks.
  19. My searching skills may need some work, but I can't find it. Can someone post the instructions on how to do a carb sync on a 2nd Gen. Please keep in mind my mechanical ability is such that the instructions really need to be written in crayon. Thanks!
  20. Is there anyone in the Pacific Northwest, hopefully along the I-5 corridor, that has carb sync equipment? Tuning my 99 RSV and just can't spend the hundred bucks right now to buy my own. I'd donate to the cause for your help. Oh, I'm in the Portland area, but willing to ride to where you are. Thanks, George
  21. I just bought an 88 venture which the previous owner said only sat for a month. Well, when the bike would only run on chock, i took of the carbs to clean them. Needless to say they were interesting inside. Now that I have them cleaned out, was curious to know what I should set the sync screws at so I can at least get it started and sync them properly. Any inout is greatly appreciated.
  22. Any Nolan owners out there? I just bought a Nolan N103 Helmet equiped with the Nolan Bluetooth set up off Ebay. I'm trying to figure out how to configure the system to work with both my GPS and the audio system on my '99RSV. It didn't have the manual..the seller is sending it... but I've down loaded the pdf manuals, and after looking at them all, it looks like the head set is the latest N-Com Bluetooth kit 3-2.1. It'll sync to my GPS. It'll sync to my Cell Phone. What I need it to do it sync to my bike audio system. I've found a 5 pin wired cable, but I want to go Bluetooth on the audio too. The system has the capability of syncing with what looks like 4 different bluetooth devices. Has anyone here ever been successful bluetoothing the RSV audio?? I know J&M makes a bluetooth dongel which I think plugs into the '99 allowing audio and CB. It's the CB that's important. Any advice would be appreciated.
  23. Is there anyone near S.W. Pa. (somerset Pa.) that could do a carb sync for me? Don did one for me at last years maintenace day but it is acting like it needs it again. Any help would be greatly appreciated. P.S. When I say "near" I mean within a days ride....always looking for a reason to spend some time on the scooter. Thanks, Mark
  24. I have gotten my new plastics, tci (from Dingy), and getting ready to order a fork rebuild kit from buckeye and progressive springs. Now I just need to get home so I can start rebuilding Frankenstein! Also going to get a carb sync tool and check on my carbs, I do not think I am getting all of the power out of her. Scoty
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