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About Me




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VR Assistance

  1. Can anyone tell me which wire coming rom the TCI module goes to which coil? I have determined that number one cylinder is the left rear, number two is left front, number three is right rear and four is right front. Now, there are four wires coming out of the TCI- Orange, Grey, Yellow and White that go to the coils. I need to know which wire goes to which cylinders perspective coil. Any help greatly appreciated! Tim
  2. My front brake handle - mastery cyl isn't generating my brake light. I have looked on bikebandit parts diagrams to purchase the new switch and lo and behold I picked the wrong part. Diode? Anyways, was wondering if anyone had the right part number for this bad boy before I throw anymore money away!
  3. Well I have a little problem. I was bleeding out the front brakes and got one side to bleed out nice then moved to the other side. Well I cannot get it to bleed out. I get nothing from it when I squeeze the lever. Is there an easy way to fix this or should I replace the line. I will NOT ride without a front brake, four wheel boneheads make that WAY to dangerous. Shaun
  4. When I purchased my 1987 Venture Royale I noticed right off the bat that the left front rotor/caliper had major problems as did the rear caliper. The left front caliper was sticking so badly that it destroyed the LF rotor. After pricing rebuild kits for the three calipers, the rebuild kits for the front and rear master cyls. and the replacment of the bad front rotor my navigator/accountant said that perhaps I should just part the bike out! I sung the blues to SQUEEZE ( by the way thanks very much for giving me the courage to do this!)and he assured me that the solution was to replace the calipers with calipers from the Yamaha R1 and "de-link" the braking system. I really liked this idea because I also have a Honda V65 magna with the usual braking system. Both front discs operated by the hand lever and the foot pedal operating the rear brake. I purchased 2 front calipers from a 2002 R1 from Ebay for $40.00 with shipping. I also purchased a brake line set from a 2002 VMAX for $28.00 with shipping. Lastly, I purchased a set of stock, used rotors from Ebay for $55.00 with shipping. I picked up a front and rear master cyl. rebuild kit from Rick @ Buckeye Performance (by the way Rick, thanks a bunch!) and althou he was not too keen on me de-linking the brakes he was very friendly and provided excellent service, plus gave me a nice VR ORG. discount. Once the parts arrived, I removed ALL of the old brake lines, rebuilt the front and rear master cyls., installed the VMAX brake line set, moved the right front brake caliper to the rear (waiting on another good buy on a RF R1 caliper.) added a set of speed bleeders on all three calipers, and this was the beginning of the good part, I bled all three wheels out in 8 minutes!! Needless to say the braking is nothing short of UNBELIEVABLE! During one extremely hard brake test I came VERy close to lifting the rear wheel off the ground with NO front brake lock-up, and the decell was breath taking. The more brake lever you grab, the harder these new calipers work! I have included some pics, Part 2 will be the addition of an R1 rear caliper and part 3 will be the replacment of the stock front rotors with a set of modified R1 floating rotors. I will keep you posted as the rest of this story unfolds. Any questions, please feel free to ask me, SQUEEZE is the Master, I'm just the desiple. Ride Safe, Stop Safe, Earl.
  5. I need some help finding long distance touring tires. My Yamaha dealership swamped me into a Vons claiming they would rival Michelin long-distance tires. The michelins claimed double the usual expected mileage. That would equate to 40,000 k. I have since learned my Yamaha dealer may have totally lied about the capability of the Avon tires. Not wishing to rely on them for advice I'm asking here. The Dunlop Elite 4 tires seem to claim amazing range. What is my best option and does anyone know where I could get them installed in short notice.
  6. I cant seem to find the thread I was looking at here. it was on replacing the two piston front calipers on stock RSV with R1 or R6 four piston calipers. I was at the dealer yesterday and looked at the new and R1 & R6 It looks to me that the calipers on the new models will not bolt up. they did not have any used ones in the store so I cant say about the older model years. however I looks like the FJR calipers will bolt up. If the R1 & R6 calipers will bolt on to the RSV, What year calipers do I need to find to bolt on to a 2007 RSV. There seem to be many to choose from on e-bay. If I up grade I want to be sure to get the ones that will bolt up. And I am aware on the difference in master cylinder piston size between the two bikes (R1 and RSV)
  7. Hey guys, My friend BJ Melin just posted the following on the MTA forum, so I thought I would post it here to get some feedback from you all: ""Hey guys I hate the front brakes on the 2nd gen Venture after a long trip my right hand is sore and worn out from gripping the lever so hard. I have bought a set of R6, 4 piston brake calipers and intend to get them installed the next time I have a decent day to work on the bike. I don't have an enclosed garage yet, so I have to wait for good weather. It looks like they will mount differently from the RSV 2 piston calipers. Rick Butler has mounted a pair of 4 piston calipers from the 1st gen on his Venture. Has anyone else tried the R6 calipers and if so how did they work out?" From what I have observed, the 2004 and earlier R6 and 2003 and earlier R1 calipers should be a clean bolt-up. Since many of these bikes seem to find their way to salvage, this might be a good option for someone wanting to get better front brakes on their RSV. Rick
  8. Last fall ,I replaced my rear breaks on my 05 RSV .(with 17,000 miles on it.) At that time they were warn paper thin..So yesterday I decided to replace my fronts...(in the fall..dealer told me fronts were at 30 % left on pads).Well to my surprise when I pulled my pads, THEY LOOKED LIKE NEW...I never liked the way the front brakes felt or sounded..needed a lot of preasure to slow down or stop and was afraid I'd lock the front by using to much force ..The only thing I noticed is that the front brakes were matelic and the rears were different...I replaced them anyway..Did I mention the fronts would often squeel or groan on a hard stop.. IS this normal? Shouldn't those brakes have been shot by now? I always use my fronts for stopping..I find it odd that there was so much pad left..
  9. Greetings, new member from the eastern shore of MD. I have been riding and wrenching for 20+ years, just added a 2000 RSV mm to the stable and had it out for the first real ride today. The front brakes on this bike are very weak -- the rear brake is great and oddly feels 5x as strong as the front. The fluid looks clear and the master cylinder seems to actuate cleanly. Before I pull the calipers off and check out that side of the equation, I figured I would check the wisdom of the list on any potential common problem(s) to look for. I did a quick forum search, but didn't find anything that stood out to me. Thanks in advance, Israel
  10. Finally managed to change all three sets of brake pads out for EBC FA123HH's, can not believe the difference over the stock Sumitomo pads. One thing I noticed was some slight contamination of the left front pads due to brake fluid leakage, not sure if I managed to drip some fluid out of the bleeder the last time I flushed the brakes or if the piston seals actually leak. Anyway, I was looking at the parts diagram for my '89 VR (http://tinyurl.com/4kefl2) and noticed two part numbers for the caliper seal kit: Ref# 6: 1KT-W0047-00-00 and Ref# 15: 1NL-W0047-00-0, price is within a few $$$. I don't have any idea what the difference between these two kits is, maybe somebody has ran into this problem before? Thanks in advance, Klaus
  11. I was checking the general tech section... and saw a rather routine sounding "trick" for we height challenged riders... lower the front forks by 1"... but it was adressed to the 2nd gen... They simply loosen the triple tree clamps (after removing tons of stuff to get there) and slide the fork tubes up and tighten her back down. Anybody done this on a 1st gen? Clearance issues? I sure hope it's that easy... it would be a wonderful help to my bike leaning SO far over on the side stand after upgrading to progressive front springs! And yeah, I'm a little low at the inseam.
  12. Does anyone have a good set of eyebrows from a 2 gen they would like to sell? I would like to add them to the front of my sidecar to match the bike.
  13. I read several threads on mounting a garage door opener on the RSV and newer RSTD's. None of them were on the older RSTD's. So here is what I did. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp432%3C9%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C483%3B958329nu0mrj First I opened up the remote an soldered wires to the activation button. When the cover is closed, the wires come through the whole in the front of the cover. You might have to create one on your remote. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp43332%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C4843753329nu0mrj Then I found a suitable location for the remote button. I decided that behind the seat near the ignition switch was easy to get at, out of the way, and had plenty of room to work with. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp432%3B6%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C4843756329nu0mrj I wired a momentary button from Radio Shack ($2.39) and heat shrinked the wires. Make sure the switch is "N O" (normally open) so it only activates when you press the button. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp43335%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C483%3B959329nu0mrj Next I removed the drivers seat and drilled a hole for the button. Mine needed to be 3/8". http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp432%3B%3A%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C484374%3B329nu0mrj I installed the button. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp43333%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C4843754329nu0mrj I removed the right side cover and had to relocate the relay from the center mount to the back one to make room for the remote. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp43445%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C4843755329nu0mrj Relay now on the back mount. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp43332%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C4846947329nu0mrj I used a zip tie to secure the remote to the two front mounts. Then I connected the button and the remote with bullet connectors to allow me to remove it if necessary for maintenance. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp43453%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C4843757329nu0mrj Thats it! Simple, out of the way, easy to activate, and less than $3.00 out of my pocket.
  14. Just wanted to toss up a quick note to all the 1st genners that are thinking of delinking their front brakes and going with the R1/R6 front calipers. I just finished this mod on the '86 I currently own, and I used several different lines. The main line from the front brake master cylinder was off a 2nd gen. I sent this down to what I think was a Vmax splitter and then the R1 calipers I bought had the lines with it and I used them to the calipers. The reason I am writing about this is I ran into a problem when I 1st put it together. I want to save you fellas some headaches should you want to try this. Let me start out saying that all banjo bolts are not the same. Also all brake line connectors are also not the same. The original equipment lines on the 1st gens have a groove inside the fitting and the banjo bolt has a full sized shank. The 2nd gen line does not have this groove in the line, nor does the R1 lines, so there has been an engineering change with this and the bolts are not interchangeable. What I ended up doing, was grinding a groove in my old bolt at the splitter, and also on the master cylinder bolt as I wanted to use the original ones to make sure they worked properly. I used the banjo bolts that came with the R1 calipers on them. The pics below are of the differences in the bolts, and the mod plate I did to mount the splitter. I bled the brakes out tonight and have a good feel to it with newer lines.
  15. Does anyone know where I can buy chrome lower wind deflectors that mount in front of the forks? Like to replace the clear deflectors.
  16. I just had a thought... I know..I know.. about putting together a list of features, or subtle differences, between all years of the 1stGens. Maybe a good idea...maybe not, but outside of colors which are listed in Venture History it might be fun to put together something. So I'll start, chime in if you can think of anything that first appeared in that year and I'll add it to the list. If I don't get any response I'll figure it was a bad idea and pick up my marbles and go away.... 1983 1. TCI is unique 2. vacuum advance comes off carb. 3. Dash is unique 4. Front brake and Gear shifter are adjustable 5. Hydralic anti-dive 1984 1. TCI changed 2. vacuum advance comes off manafold. 3. Choke set rotates in front of LH Grip 4. Cruise Control 5. Dimmer knob, gear position, stop watch added to Dash 6. 1985 1. Larger removable trunk.. unique 2. V-Max tranny after #1417 3 Choke set back to slider 1986 1. 1300 engine 2. Larger saddle bags 3. Larger trunk 4. Choke setting back to slider under horn button 5. larger 4 piston calipers and rotors 6. Wider passenger seat 7. Headlight changed in 86 to include different headlight bucket, top frame that mounts dash, adjustment mech, left side upper frame and headlight ring 8. passenger foot boards added 9. Muffler mount spacer larger 10. OEM CB added 11. chin scoop out of ABS 12. Engine guards redesigned to take new scoop 13. Windshield chrome strip changed to one piece 14. wider fork mount for 100mm calipers 15. Front brake and gear shifter non-adjustable. 16. clutch springs, pressure plate changed. 17. extra bleeder valve for left front brake near ignition switch. 18. Cruise Control lights on ignition switch cover. 19. Electrical anti-dive. 20. Longer drive shaft and modified final. 1987 1988 1. Standard XVZ1300 Discontinued 1989 1990 1. front fork boots attach a at the bottom. 2. TCI changed 1991 1992 1993 1994 1. European only
  17. when i bought this 88 venture last week i mentioned that it had a loose front end i changed fork oil, and this solved the right side oil leak that i had, but still had a very bad shimmy at all speeds when i released pressure on the handle bars, severe enough that i was afraid to ride it. the bike also needed tires and i opted for dunlop elite 111s, as this seemed the tire of choice on the forum, i use dyna beads in my roadstar so thats what i used in the dunlops and guess what?absolutley no shimmy or vibes from the front end, and the mirrors are clear. Frank
  18. Well there I was, out in the back yard working on the bike. It has been having some carb issues beyond the abilities of even the magical Seafoam. The next thing I know I'm chasing the dang front tire as it goes rolling down the street. That tire was quick. It managed to stay about 3 feet in front of me for the next 3 hours. That dang tire rolled all over SE WI with me right behind it. I thought I had it once at a gas station but I took my eye off it for just a second and zoom, it was off and rolling down the road again with me in hot pursuit. But I did finally catch it and lock it up in the shed. Now I have a smile on my face and feel like a nap is in order. Watch out for those front tires, they can be sneaky.
  19. I just got Commander2 on rear last year-great tire. NOW I need front tire. Michelin does not have a front available in our size. I have had bad luck with Avon VenomX recently. Thusly, that's not an option. I see the Dunlop E3 has the highest load capacity for 120/90-18 like the Avon had. Can anyone say if the E3 gives good turn in, and stability ? I ride back roads dragging the saddlebag trim WFO following my sport bike friends. ALSO any other tire options ?
  20. Barb and I are down in Murfreesboro TN at our daughter's house. My son-in-law and I got to talking about the bikes he has test ridden, and the topic of the BMW 1600GTL came up. He'd gone to the Nashville dealer (Bloodsworth) and looked at it, but it was raining that day so he couldn't go for a test ride. Today we went up there and Barb and I went for a ride. It sure is a lot different than a MKII first Gen!!! The luggage is pretty small. The travel trunk is real big on the outside, but it's 2 layers, so the inside is way smaller than the MkII. The sadle bags have a real neat mounting system. They go on and off the bike in about 2 seconds flat. The motor is fantastic. Super smooth and unbelieveable power--everywhere. I ran it from a 3000 rpm run in 1st gear. You could feel the computer cut the power back whenever it would start to lift the front tire. Even in 6th gear from 55 mph, the power is great. Barb says it doesn't souind like a motorcycle though. The transmission shifts good, but there is a lot of gear lash in the driveline---way worse than either my 89 or my 83 with 150K on it. It turns great. Really great. I think it's because of the front suspension. The brakes are way too touchy. If you are old enough to remember getting into your friends early 60's Olds. or Pontiac and coming to a screeching stop while just touching the brake pedal, that's what the BMW brakes seem like. Even when I was trying to stop real gentle, it was an abrupt stop. There is some time delay between the throttle by wire and the motor responding, but it's not too bad. The passenger portion of the seat comfortable, but it took Barb some time to get used to it. She liked the seat heater, but says the back rest was terrible. I hated the front seat, but it had the shorter one. The dealer says he thinks he'll get a higher seat in soon. The wind protection from the fairing is no where as good as the first Gen. You have to use a bluetooth if you want communication with your passenger. I didn't play too much with all the toys, except I did switch the damping on the suspension. In the comfort position, it rides smoothly, and it gets stiffer when on normal or whatever they call the higher position. There is a lot less passenger room compared to either a 1st. or 2nd gen. If I left anything important out, please ask away..... Frank D.
  21. I would like to inquire of those who have removed the front lower fairing leg on what they feel was the benefit and or what they regret or miss? I would also like to ask if anyone has blocked the front fairings air vent and again what they regret or miss? The purpose of these question is that I am still building my 85 project and am considering using the air intakes for the lower legs to mount a set of auxillary running lights in. In this forums opinion the pros and cons? I ask as I want to see if anyone else will come up with something I have not thought of or overlooked. I am considering installing a set of lamp in the least obtrusive location. Thanks in advance to all who reply and share their thoughts and opinions.
  22. As part of my changeover to the MKII forks on 83, I am wanting to slide the forks up a little in the tripple tree. When I changed my springs to Progressives, even though I did not use any spacers on the springs, it raised the front of my bike up some. I will be transfering these springs and won't be using any air and wondering if any others had done this and what did they do about the holes where the air goes into the tube. I suspect the holes will be up under the clamped area, but feel they would still need some type of seal to keeping from leaking shock fluid. RandyA
  23. So I did it this weekend. put the E3 on. I have to say its wonderful! having changed the rear tire about 1K miles ago doing the leveling links and now the front tire. I just don't understand why Yamaha didn't do this right from the start! the difference in handling and "FEEL" of the bike are just incredible. If these bikes would have come with better tires and the suspension set correctly from the factory there wouldn't be as many used bikes out there, and a lot less in accidents. Now if riding the bike made my gut shrink it would be perfect! LOL
  24. I've probably read the reason for reversing a M/C rear tire when put on the front, but I don't remember the reason. Could someone please enlighten me on the reason to do this. Thanks, Glenn
  25. Have made a little progress this week with winter project. Made a stand that will be used to temporarily support frame during initial motor fitment and suspension work. It's not pretty but will only be used for this phase.. I have an old 1200 block setting in frame at this point to see where major obstacles will be in putting a 1st gen/VMax motor into the RSV frame. Motor fits the six mount points that the 1st gen uses in the 2003 RSV frame. The front head brackets will not be used. I have a set of VMax heads for this project that will be on a modified 1300 block. I don't think a v-boost system will be possible with this setup due to the use of the RSV fuel tank & air intake components. I don't think the taller V-boost setup has a chance of fitting. Considering another option to use in place of the V-boost for that snap at about 6k rpm's. Rear exhaust down tubes look to be usable with very little modification. Front down tubes are going to be a challenge. The front motor mount bracket will need some modification to allow the front tubes to pass bracket. Seriously considering using a 1st gen MKII front end I have intsead of the RSV front end. The RSV unit is massive compared to a 1st gen unit. I don't have the wheels for the RSV, so I want to use a set of VMax wheels on this. The fork spread is over an inch wider than the 1st gen which would make the use of the VMax wheels improbable. I have tried the 1st gen triple tree in the RSV frame and it matches what is needed. I like the styling of the RSV fender more than the 1st gen, but It may not get used. I think I can mount the RSV handlebars & controls on the 1st gen upper tree bracket with minimal modification. I will have to set tank on frame to see if there will be a clearance issue with this change. Bike will be a single seater with no fairing, saddle bags etc. Minimal instrumentation, no radio. Looking at a VMax instrument pod & speedometer. Have a VMax final drive for it. Gary
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