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  • Posts

    • First let me clarify I work full time on an AFB and support a number of other bases,  but I am just a contractor supporting the real warfighters, so the praise belongs to them.  That @cowpuc is an F-35A being piloted by Major Wolfe.

      https://www.388fw.acc.af.mil/About-Us/Biographies/Article/2098569/major-kristin-beo-wolfe/

      • Like 1
    • cowpuc

      Posted (edited)

      33 minutes ago, saddlebum said:

      The extra air pressure most likely helped due to fact that it forced the car tread to round out from a normally designed flat foot print. Which in fact is probably 14 psi above the tires designed max tire pressure range.

      the tires I have on my Hybrid car are cheapies from Walmart, Douglas tires that cost $42 instead of the OEM "Green" greenie tires that cost $175 each. I run those cheap Douglas tires at 45 psi instead of OEM spec of 36 psi to save on fuel and it works awesome with no sign of odd wear. The sidewall on the Douglas states 51 psi max (see pic). I cant imagine that $42 douglas tires have ANYTHING over any other car tire BUT I would check the sidewall for max psi 1st anyway when adjusting to regain control of the bike running dark side .. I know for fact the one I increased to regain control on my friends Valkarie was rated to 50 psi so it definitly was no where near above designed max. Please note @saddlebum,, car/bike factory spec for tire psi is NOT max psi on tires.  Also note folks, when checking/adjusting tire pressures do so with tire cold and do not worry about where the tire psi will rise to when hot.. Tire manufacture max psi's are designed with heat increase in mind, its normal and perfectly safe psi max and inflated to 50 psi when cold to go over 50 psi when hot. ALWAYS CHECK YOUR TIRE STAMP WHEN INFLATING THOUGH!  way it works. Puc DSCN9306.JPG.4de0946f9b09830f194923d3f12d7055.JPGDSCN9305.JPG.d34233a3af18f55448bbf5e2c94dd146.JPG for a tire rated at 50

      Edited by cowpuc
    • The extra air pressure most likely helped due to fact that it forced the car tread to round out from a normally designed flat foot print. Which in fact is probably 14 psi above the tires designed max tire pressure range.

      Edited by saddlebum
    • Worked on a buddies Valkerie with a car tire on back. It was NOT rideable running "normal" car tire 32 psi. I just kept raising psi in car tire until it became rideable and raised it an extra 5 psi. ended up at 46 psi and rode like a bike tire. it was DANGEROUS at 32 psi!

    • I would suspect that your turning issues may stem form the fact that the car tire has a flat foot print across its tread and is not designed to lean the way a motor cycle tire does. So when you attempt to do figure eights you are taking a tire designed to ride only in the upright position with a flat tread to ride up  on the outside corners of the the tread, were a MC tire is designed to be able to run on its outer tread surfaces when a bike is leaned over. The feel you get may be the result of conflict between you forcing the tire to run on its outer edge and the tire trying to maintain a flat foot print which would result in tire squirm, so there may in fact be nothing wrong with the bike itself. Also a car tire would have a heavier carcass which means balancing the tire is more critical and were we can get away with static balancing a MC tire, a car tire should be dynamically balanced. a good indicator is when you get a speed related vibration which usually creeps in as you approach a given speed peaks and then fades some as you surpass that speed. Finally since car tires generally run in pairs a single car tire may induce a type of tread wonder and could result in a tail wobble, as could an unevenly mounted tire. On commercial trucks we have often had to break down and remount a tire because the driver experienced a front end vibration from newly mounted tires.

      Edited by saddlebum
      • Like 1
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