sleadhed

looking for voices of experience. Best product to treat a new clearview shield. The paperwork that came with the shield said to use a light wax, rainx, pledge, or Honda polish. I have heard wax pledge and rainx will yellow the plastics. the only thing I ever put on my old stock shield was Plexus or the Honda polish. Looking for guys who have had the clearview on for multiple years. Thanks Ken

Thinking seriously about installing the Daymaker lighting kit. I'm looking for any of our members who have converted and their opinion on them. thanks in advance. Oh I'm aware the original head light bucket has to be modified. Clearview XXL shield should be arriving any day now so this would be a good time to convert Ken

who wouldn't want a venture cap?

Got a set of R6 calipers coming, my question is has anyone polished the black off and cleared the the calipers so the closer match the stock looking caliper (other than the blue star) if so what was the process you used and can you post pics. One more question- does anyone have a line on the14mm road star warrior front master cylinder. I can't seem to find one but i have only been on the search for a week. Pinwall has one but it is very rough and pitted. thanks Ken

WANTED: Looking for a left side engine (stator) cover. I had to replace my engine and the 20K mile engine I replaced it with came with a small crack in the stator cover that was not seen upon delivery. So I swapped with take out engine cover. I plan to rebuild the take out engine so I will need a good stator cover. 2000-2013 RSV or RSTD engine will work.

I have to agree with cowpuc that noise definitely sounds valve train speed. Try to isolate it more on the valve covers with a stethoscope or if you do not have a stethoscope use a long screwdriver, Place the tip of the screwdriver on the area you want to hear better the rest your ear on the end of the handle of the screwdriver. Also when one of the center gear bearing retainer bolt heads break off the noise is not rhythmic wit RPM's like yours it is very sporadic. Good luck Ken

Well as it turns out there were two different knocking noises in the engine. The worst one was the tapered bolts with the torx heads that secure the plates for the middle gear shaft on the left side of transmission. There are 4 total one on each end of the two bearing retaining plates. they are staked in to place. the head of one of the bolts (technically tapered cap screws) cracked and fell off at the head from the impact of being staked. I know this because 3 of the 4 have visible cracks when removed. I drilled out and extracted the one that broke off in the engine and replaced them. This time I used red lock tight and let it cure overnight before reinstalling the left rear side cover and filling with oil. (See attached photos of bolts) After starting, the real horrible knocking was gone but there was still another noise. So at this point I decided screw it got an engine from pinwall with 20K swapped my high output stator and barnett clutch, checked the middle gear tapered cap screws that broke off on my original engine and guess what? They were starting to develop cracking at the base of the tapered head on two of the bolts. they were all replaced and red lock tighted in to place. For those that have been here since 2007 that know I was fighting a misfire under load (basically freeway cruising speed) just after it hit about 1000 miles. You may recall I hat it to two different dealers multiple times each to get this resolved within the warranty. Neither of the two dealers were competent enough to diagnose and resolve the issue. so at 9000 miles I began testing and isolated the #1 ignition coil breaking down under load. All 4 coils were replaced at that time on my dime because I had lost all confidence in any of the dealers ever touching my bike again. Well due to the fact that there was no spark in #1 under load and cruising speed for 8000 miles the cylinder got washed out and I had a weak hole even after correcting the failing coil. (this is all theory at this point, I have not yet torn in to original engine) The 20K engine RIPS!!! this bike has not pulled like that since early 2008 right after I bought it. Sorry for the long post and rant but just wanted to let you all know the out come. Also wanted to warn others of what I found on the middle gear tapered cap screws on both engines. I will post updates of what I find on my original engine when I get around to tearing it down and rebuilding it.

Wild Bill No hydraulic starts. No odor of fuel in oil. I did think to smell the oil at one point after i initially changed it . I know if oil gets washed down it can lead to very bad things. thanks Ken

DJH3 This noise progressed so quickly I haven't had any time to do any more than I have with having to get ready for the move across state. Depending on how bad the little man with a hammer living inside the engine wants out next time I start it, Isolating cylinders to see if there is any change in the sporadic noise would be a great idea. Took a load over to put in to storage last weekend and had to start her to move her out there is a lip at the entry door that I could not get her over pushing by myself. As I stated previously the noise gets worse every time I start her after she has cooled off from previous start. I did notice that as I lean the her side to side after running the noise will change some, Tins leads be to think it has something related to a gear, bearing, clutch drum... you know something that it going to have some clearance lash. It's all speculation at this point until I have time to tear in to the engine. I appreciate all the thoughts Please keep them coming. DJH3- love your signature, the saddest moment yet with our move has been having to look at her on the trailer in the rear view mirrors. she has only slept out side 6-7 times and this was her first trailer ride. Broke my heart! Ken

Also I would not be surprised if there now is evidence of metal suspended in the oil now. The noise progressed from a slight tick to a very ugly knock.

Skydoc I have been researching engines. It is possible it could be water pump But I think it is not likely. the noise sounds far more solid/deep that what a typical metal impeller makes. I am leaning more toward loose clutch basket that is telescoping noise. I have not made up my mind if I want to tear it down or just say screw it and replace the engine. I'll most likely pull both clutch and stator covers and see if I can see any thing obvious. No matter what I decide to do the fact is the noise will become catastrophic if I continue to run it. these engines are so small small that the noise just telescopes everywhere. I am in the middle of moving across state, Once I get settled in and get the shop set up after the new year I'll keep posted of what I find. Ken

2007 RSV 42K on the clock. Oil changes every 2500 like clockwork. At 30K Adjusted valves, Barrett clutch. upgraded stator and RR around 20K. at 53 my hearing is not what it used to be To many years operating air tools as a auto technician. It started very subtle and quiet then in a matter of 200-300 miles is much worse the best way i can describe the noise is timing chain slap. it is not rhythmic with RPMs. sound comes from both left and right sides more from the front. when I put a stethoscope on the engine it is loudest on the case half bolts under the water pump. It is not a grind type but an knock/slap metallic noise that has no tempo or rhythm. real bad at cold start and will quiet down some as it reaches operating temperature. When the noise first started I drained and changed oil. No sign of metal in oil. It runs smooth no miss or skips. It has progressed to the point I am afraid that if I continue to run it to try to isolate It will become catastrophic. (at that point it will not be difficult to pin point cause) LOL Sucks to be me! Any ideas??

The RSTD bars are wider 2" I believe and have 1.5" more pull back. also the grips are straighter. as in when holding the grips your hands are more straight on the RSTD bars as opposed to your hands being angled outward from wrist on the RSV bars. I was having massive shoulder issues with the stock bars. The 2" risers were very little help. I rode another RSV that had the flanders bars. that was marginally better. I heard of others installing the RSTD bars. I researched the dimensions of the RSTD vs. Flanders. I decided to pull the trigger and convert. No more shoulder pain, numbness, back muscle cramps. a couple years ago I did a 1000 miles in one day, my a$$ gave out before my shoulder did. BTW Rick @ buckeye performance has all thats needed to convert either bars. (brake &clutch lines, throttle cables)

Have a set of stock bars with the weights off of my 2007 RSV. I installed RSTD bars and 2 inch risers what a difference!. the stock RSV bars are available to any one who wants them just pay shipping from Seattle area.

Well got the tires on and oil leak repaired. First ride and first impressions of the Avon Cobras: The font tire is radial and the rear is bias. Front tire is noisy as compared to the Dunlop 404s I took off. I went in to the first few corners with much apprehension due to the radial/bias mix. seemed to handle just fine. I kicked it up a little at a time. What a difference form the Dunlops. No more wandering and tracking. It felt like it was in rails, WOW this bike handles great! I have only ran the stock Brickstones and Dunlop 404s (41,000 miles) By the end of my first ride I was entering the corners I had ridden 100 times before 10MPH faster and feeling like it would still be sticking at another 10MPH faster. I know that some members have had issues with Avons cracking or coming apart. Hopefully these Avons hold up, I am curious to see the kind of mileage I get out of this set.