Flyinfool

You may not see it but you should be able to hear it from there.

Well I did get it out to try to light it up today. I got a bunch of pops a few farts and a couple of really loud BANGS. The longest it ran was about 2 seconds. It was like it was just burning off the prime, I can tell it was getting fuel by watching the level in the tank go down. I have no clue as to just what flow rate I should be using, so this is all trial and a lot of error. All of the batteries are charging now so I may give it another try tomorrow with a different fuel mix and see what happens.

Most shops have the removal kit for customers that have lost their key. I have welded a nut to the top of the keyed nut...... It destroyed the keyed nut but it comes off easy. Just don't over heat and anneal the stud.

Howdy, Welcome to the funny Farm. This Venture site is like the Hotel California, You have entered but you can never leave. These early Ventures are great bikes. You can find a wealth of knowledge located on this site, https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forum/15-venture-and-venture-royale-tech-library-83-93-read-only/ You may want to go thru the part about known issues as a starting point of things to check for. Any questions feel free to ask, There is someone that can answer almost any question you can think up and there is also someone that has experienced and figured out about every possible problem that can arise. PS Watch out for @cowpuc , He is the . We like pics of bikes and most anything else. If there are no pics it did not happen.

I know the feeling. My bike has been gone for 2 years now. I still miss it and this site is still stuck with me.

Be aware that stainless steel screws are rated at 70,000 PSI tensile strength and the same screw in steel is rated 120,000 PSI. 1/4-20 has an effective dia of .201. That is only .0317 Sq IN. Stainless hardware looks pretty and is more expensive but is equivalent to cheap grade 2 hardware.

Where I live there is an annual bike race that is MANY laps around a rectangular track. the track encloses about half the population of the city, around 10,000 people. NO ONE is allowed to cross the track in or out during the race. The race is always on a weekday and does not end till around 6 to 7PM. Nothing worse than to be tired and hungry from a 12 - 14 hour workday and being told you can not go home because once every 15 minutes some bikes will come by, They will not even let me walk across the road to go home eat dinner and go to bed and I can see my house just 75 yards away. It is those same racers that while "practicing" or "training" feel they are just in using up TWO full traffic lanes on a 4 lane state highway causing a major road block and then when they do get to a controlled intersection they get very POed at those that do not stop for them when they run the red lights and ignore stop signs. Sorry, rant over......

The only question on the 2000 lbs, is that the rating for each or for the "SET" of 4. Only make the recess just deep enough. You want to leave as much wood as possible. You will want to use bolts and nuts to attach them. I would make a steel plate bigger than the recess hole to put on the bottom side with bolts going thru. Based on the dimensions they give, your recess hole will be about 4 inch Dia and a bit OVER 1 Inch deep. That does not leave much wood if the floor is 2x6 or even 2 x 8. Also make sure that the wood is very well attached to the trailer so that the bike and a piece of wood do not go flying if you have to stop or swerve fast, you know some jerk will cut you off or run a stop at some point. The flatbed I had was 2 x 12 planks that were just under a small lip at the front and back, any load attached to the floor was realistically only held down by the 1 x 1 x 1/8 angle tack welded to the front and back of the trailer and the weight of the board the load was attached to.It was more like the boards were to be held down by the load. Here is one that is stamped on the ring as 2000 lb and comes with a backing plate and carriage bolts so that the bolt heads are not as much of a trip hazard. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Recessed-D-Ring-TieDown-Anchors-Mounting-Lock-Plates-Bolting-Accessories-/264816546110?vxp=mtr&hash=item3da84bd13e

I once brought a bag of yellow dog treats home from the hardware store, the kind where they have open bins with a small shovel and you pay by the pound. A couple days later I asked where all the dog treats went, I got a quizzical "What dog treats" I said the they were about an inch square and yellow. I think it was that same shade of green in here face as she told me she thought they were cheese crackers and she ate the whole bag. She said they were pretty good. BUT But coming from an open bin in a hardware store, who knows what they were actually made of or what may have crawled or settled on them.

I once got lucky fishing out a part by sticking a small but powerful magnetic pickup tool down thru the oil drain back holes and was able to fish steel parts out of the sump. Try every access hole you can find. I have not looked close enough at the internal layout of the oil pan to know if it is possible, but my concern would be something making its way back to the transmission gears. Under acceleration or climbing a hill and accelerating a part could move toward the back.

The amount of current that will flow thru the meter is so small that it does not matter. Most digital meters are above 20KΩ per volt and you are measuring a connection that is a fraction of an ohm or if it is a really bad connection it might get up to a couple of ohms. But as Saddlebum mentioned it does require that the circuit is actually turned on and working and drawing current thru the connections.

And then since you did that electrical work when a tail light burns out it will be your fault since it is electrical. Yup I have played the game too.

An easier way to test for the voltage drop. Attach the positive voltmeter lead to the battery positive. Use the negative lead to probe each connection as you follow the power from the battery positive on out. This way the meter will read the actual voltage drop so you do not have to do all the math. a reading of zero is perfect but not realistic. Wire has resistance and every connection will have some resistance, resistance causes voltage drop, the goal is to have the lowest number possible. As you move out from the battery and find a connection that has a big voltage drop, fix it and then continue on.

Around here the stealers will not touch anything that is more than 10 years old, period. even some car dealers play this game, they just say time for a new car. There are a number of small shops that will work on anything.

The connection to the temp gauge are above and to the front of the right front cylinder. Make sure it is actually connected It is easy to accidentally knock the connection off.