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skydoc_17

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skydoc_17 last won the day on October 11

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About skydoc_17

  • Birthday 10/17/1955

Personal Information

  • Name
    Earl F Harrell

location

  • Location
    Duncansville, PA, United States

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  • City
    Duncansville

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  • State/Province
    PA

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Interests
    Fast Cars, 4x4 Trucks, Motorcycles
  • Bike Year and Model
    1987 Venture Royale, 1989 Venture Royale

Occupation

  • Occupation
    Tool and Die Maker, Machinist, Tooling Design Engineer

VR Assistance

  • VR Assistance
    Trailer, Tools, Work Shop, Hot Coffee and a functioning BBQ Grill!.

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  1. Hey Tom, I am very glad to hear that the Diaphragms and sliders worked well for you! There is No describing the joy, joy these First Gen. Ventures bring when they are running good. As I said, these bikes run rich naturally, and that only gets worse as these bikes age. The Needle Shim Mod is the Bomb for curing this issue! I've seen these bikes get 50 MPG's when driving closer to 65mph. I hope you have many, many more miles of trouble free riding, my friend! Great job installing all of the parts you recently acquired! Earl
  2. Now that the riding season is coming to an end for many of us in the North East, (except for those hard core, crazy canuks!) I hope to spend the winter months this year talking about things that many riders already know, but some may not. I fully realize that I will NEVER have the panache that Cowpuc had, (but I also will never have the beak that man had) I will do my best to impart the wisdom I have gained from over 50 years of riding in the dirt and on the street. I also must give credit to an article I read in of all places a woman's motorcycle enthusiast forum called MOTORESS. Here is a link to the actual article which goes into great depth about the physics of counter steering a motorcycle. I have also attached a pic of the actual movements to counter steer a motorcycle from another article. Here is the link: https://www.motoress.com/ride/rider/push-steering-a-motorcycle/ Now that I have given credit to MOTORESS and insulted the once Patriarch of our forum, let's move on to the "meat and potatoes" of my topic! Because I started riding dirt bikes at a fairly early age, I learned about counter steering on the dirt track. I learned very early on that if you rode your dirt bike like you were on the street, you would never be able to make the tight turns that you need to ride on the track. It just can't be done. I practiced "Push Left to go Left" and "Push Right to go Right" for hours on end until it was muscle memory to me. When I became old enough to ride on the street, (which was 15 years and 8 months old in my state) I was pleasantly surprised to find out that this same element that worked on the track also works on the pavement as well. At this time I would like to mention that this technique only works on two wheeled vehicles. It WILL NOT work on a trike, a bike with a side car or a Can Am Spider or a Slingshot. Two wheeled motorcycles, (and bicycles oddly enough) are the only vehicles that can be counter steered. To cut to the chase, so to speak, and skip all of the techno babble about why it works, counter steering basically interrupts the gyroscopic inertia that makes your bike want to "stand up" even in a turn because of the spinning front wheel, like a gyroscope. My suggestion is to take your bike to a deserted parking lot and practice the push right to go right, push left to go left technique. You can start out at a relatively low speed and try to "swerve" your bike as if you were dodging a ball that has rolled out into the street. After a day or two of this practice, and once you have FELT the reaction of your bike when you use this technique, find a sweeper right or left turn road in the 35mph to 45mph range and apply the push right to go right, push left to go left technique. (I personally find it harder to do a left turn than a right turn for some reason, but that's just me! So I started with the right turn first, Just an FYI here) The object is to set up the speed of your bike and the attack angle in advance of the turn just like you would if you were going to use the "Leaning Method" of turning, but instead use the "Push Method". By the way, many riders refer to Counter Steering as "Push Steering". In the "Old Days" we called it Counter Steering. You can call it anything you like. I would also like to mention that this technique takes some time to acquire. You will need to Teach yourself to Push the handle bars to make a turn instead of Pulling on the handle bars to make a turn. It takes some practice. One of the benefits of counter steering through a turn is it reduces the chances of the rear tire loosing it's grip on the pavement, and wiping out the bike and rider. Not to mention your turns will come much easier with a reduced amount of effort, and it reduces your reaction time in case you need to swerve right then left to avoid multiple obstacles! As with ALL things NEW, there will be an element of FEAR involved! This is natural. (And some of us thrive on the fear!) If you are the kind of rider that does not like to get out of their comfort zone while riding, then I highly suggest that you start out in the parking lot environment for an extended period of time until you feel comfortable with the Push Steering method. There is no set time for you to master this advanced riding skill. The rewards you will gain from having this valuable riding skill will serve you well, and may just save your life in the future! As always, questions and comments are welcome, if you have used the Counter Steering technique to avoid some trouble while riding in the past, please feel free to share your experience. If you would rather ask me a question about this topic in private, please feel free to PM me. And finally, Puckster, I hope I did you proud buddy, we all miss you a bunch! (And YOU know what they say about a guy with a BIG nose!) This pic is the proper Counter Steering Method. Earl
  3. Hey Larry, Welcome to the Forum! What is the condition of the fluid in the Clutch Master Cylinder? Is it dark brown and looks like cola instead of clear? Might be time for a fluid change. Even worse, when you open the clutch master cylinder is there very little fluid in the master? If so, it might be time for a clutch slave replacement. Check these items out and get back to us. We are here to help. Earl
  4. Hey Ben, You were unusually "kind" in your comment just now, and I wanted to thank you for that. Would it be fair to say that the term "Rode it like I stole it" would describe your riding style to a degree, my friend. Be honest now, I've seen you ride your Venture more than once. I was just pointing out that for the riders that ride a little less aggressively, your clutch system MIGHT not be as smooth as the stock system if their riding style is more like "I ride it like I borrowed it, from Mike Tyson" LOL!! The most wonderful thing about these bikes is the fact that you can set them up any way you like! I have admired your riding skill for a number of years Ben, because as you know, I too like to ride HARD and FAST, and keep my bike in tip top shape, (and heavily modified) so that I can do just that! BUT in addition to my 87'VR I also have a pretty much bone stock 89'VR that I run to the store or work on all the time. Same bike, totally set up differently. Life, as well as our motorcycles, are full of options, I was just bringing a few more to the table, nothing more. Thank you again for your kindness Sir, Earl
  5. Hey PJ, Far be it for me to point out that you ALREADY HAVE the Clutch Pressure Plate and Six Compression Spring Clutch System that Barnett has so shamelessly COPIED except their Pressure Plate is powder coated Purple! (Which you CAN"T See once you put the clutch cover back on!! Never did understand that one!) And far be it for me to point out that your Clutch System is 37 years old! The issue I HAVE with the Carbon Fiber Barnett Friction Discs is they generate a tremendous amount of heat which has to be absorbed by the engine oil and radiator coolant. Plus, those carbon fiber clutch friction discs get a little "cranky" when they are cold. Unless you are "Racing" this motorcycle, you may want to have a look at Genuine Yamaha Clutch Friction Discs and a good set of EBC Heavy Duty Compression Springs! That should last you another 37 years or so, and leave a few extra bucks in your bank account! Just sayin". Earl
  6. Not to disrupt this thread with a shameless plug, but I can offer the Genuine Yamaha Slider Assy. (P/N 1FK-14940-09-00 ) for $125.00 USD each for the forum members if that would solve the issue of wondering if the sliders are from China or not! This is my cost on them, I normally charge $150.00 each here at the shop. There would also be a small shipping charge added to the cost. Hey Tom, Because those sliders were poorly glued back together, they are heavier than they should be and obviously misaligned due to the poor glue job which is evident by the scratch marks on the outside diameter of the slider. If you would really like to bump up the mileage, get my Needle Shim Kit I offer and install it while you are replacing the sliders. If I can help you with either of these parts, just let me know. I know this seems like a major investment in a bike that is over 30 years old, but believe me when I say that when these bikes have a properly functioning set of Carbs. they are a joy to ride. I would also like to add that we as men rarely spend money on ourselves! (At least I don't) BUT every now and then I truly believe that I am worth the money I spend that brings me pleasure. Even my wife agrees with me on this. So I ask you Tom, "Aren't you worth it buddy"? I think you are, and I am sure others here think you are as well. Look at it like an early Christmas present. Even if you decide to buy your sliders from another source, That's OK with me. Just don't cheat yourself out of the fun you will have if your bike is running properly, that's the point I am trying to make here. Earl
  7. Hey Ronnie, I resemble that remark, and am mildly offended that you would accuse ANY of the members of this fine forum with postulating on a subject, when in fact we have NO idea what we are talking about!! LOL!! Earl
  8. Wait a minute Ben, (You OLD Goat!) You ARE OLD! Older than I am anyway! I wouldn't wish this "Oldness Thing" on my worst enemy! After I work all week, then spend all day Saturday in the shop, I end up spending all day Sunday hobbling around in the house in my "Snoopy PJ's" Getting old SUCKS! Earl
  9. Hey Paul, Very Nice Bike! What a score to have it already have most of the items you would want to put on it once you got it! GOOD JOB! I too am not a fan of forward controls. That has kept me from buying a Second Gen. and most likely saved me thousands of dollars! Congrats on the "New To You" Scoot! Earl
  10. I would like to point out the the 2009 Yamaha VMAX is a totally redesigned 1.7L fuel injected V4 that has very little to share with the original 1200cc "First Gen." VMAX. The new VMAX engine is much taller and wider than the original. When I spoke of items that could be shared between the Yamaha Venture and the VMAX I was exclusively speaking about the First Gen. VMAX, NOT the Second Gen. bike. In my opinion, a 200 horse power Second Gen. Royal Star Venture with forward controls would be a "death trap" for the average rider! This is the reason that the Second Gen. VMAX positions the weight of the rider directly over the foot pegs, so that the weight of the rider can be used to control the "body lean" of the motorcycle. Now are there forward control cruiser type motorcycles out there that have been overpowered, (insert Harley here), Yes there are. But as we often see, the skill set of the rider doesn't match the horse power of the bike, and this is where accidents happen. Only the rider can decide if their disposition and riding skill warrants the increase in horse power that a Second Gen. VMAX engine in a Second Gen. Royal Star Venture would produce. As the owner of a First Gen. Venture Royale that is basically a VMAX with luggage, I take the riding of that motorcycle very seriously! Even though I know my limitations with that motorcycle, it is VERY easy for this bike to get out of my control, and has in the past. I have a stock 89'VR that I ride much more regularly. I find that 94 HP matches my skill set much better than 150 HP and NOS! The current issue I face with the 87'VR is I can't, in good conscience sell this motorcycle because I have NO way to measure the skill set of the new owner. I would hate to sell this bike to a "novice" rider, and have them kill themselves with this bike. This bike truly might be a rock I wear around my neck to the day I die because I overbuilt this machine during a time in my life when I THOUGHT I could control it's power. at 66 years old, I no longer feel that way. Think carefully before you modify your bike, I wish I would have! My thoughts, for what they are worth, Earl
  11. Hey Reiny, It says it on the box that our Lady in the Harbor Stands On: :Give Us Your Tired, Your Weak, Your First Gen Gold Wing Riders: So according to these sacred words Reiny, we even have to accept Tired, Old Gold Wing Riders.....AGAIN! Glad to have you back Brother! What's a barn yard without a noisy old Rooster to liven things up!! Earl
  12. Excellent write up Neil, and very informative! For those that didn't know, I had a triple bypass to remove a grapefruit sized aneurism. I returned to work in March and am required to stand on concrete 8 to 12 hours a day to do my duties as a Tool and Die Maker. Without Compression Socks, I would NOT still be working I can assure you of that! Now I am not currently using the fancy "Copper Top" brand, but they are provided by my medical insurance. They come in colors, and go all the way to my knee. I am shocked that they NEVER fall down, even during the longest days at work. After reading your review Neil, I may pick up a few pairs for weekend wear because the insurance supplied ones do look a little "geriatric"! Thanks Neil, for the thoughtful post! Earl
  13. Hey Guys, You gents are spot on with your description of places to check on Tom's bike! Any engine that runs on fuel needs three things. Air, fuel and spark. Because he said it feels like it is straining to go past 5 grand, and did not suggest that the ignition just flat cuts out at 5G leads me to believe that it is an air/fuel related problem rather than an ignition problem. Closely inspect the air filter. Better yet, If you are running the paper one, just replace it. If you are running the K&N filter, clean it! I personally run the K&N filters on both my VR's and every time I clean the air filter, I replace the Fuel Filter as well. Set all 4 Idle Mixture Screws at 2 1/2 turns out, and "Fine Tune" them from there. The inspection of the Carb. Diaphragms Simmer mentioned is an excellent place to start! If the sliders are not damaged, the Diaphragms from Sirius are an excellent choice. If the sliders are damaged, then complete replacement assemblies are the way to go. I offer complete Plug Wire with NGK caps upgrades for $65 that would take care of that issue for years to come, If you are interested. A good Carb. Sync is also an excellent investment in time for these bikes. Once you have taken care of these "Basic" items, if you still have this issue Tom, then the list of things to check becomes a bit more "pricey". Keep us posted on your results. Earl
  14. Hey Guys, I personally flush my brake and clutch fluid YEARLY! The DOT3/Dot4 fluid our bikes use is rated to 500 degrees. (which is well in the range of normal braking temps.) Unfortunately, the clutch slave is located at the rear of the engine, close to the exhaust pipes and starved for fresh air. Because the fluid attracts moisture, and the reservoir is vented, water builds up at the clutch slave because it is the lowest point on that system. The heat boils the moisture, creating air bubbles, and this is why the clutch fades. When the clutch system cools off, the air bubbles are absorbed and the fluid functions again. This is not a hard service to do although it does help if you have a "helper" to work the clutch or brake lever while you work the bleeder. My children as young a 7 years old helped me bleed the fluid every spring. They also learned about regular maintenance on a vehicle at a very early age. This has served them well now that they are adults. Invite a few riding buddies over, provide the beverage of choice for the group, throw a few dogs on the grill and bleed everyone's brakes and clutches. It works every time for me! But even if you have to take it to a shop for this service, it does need to be done every year or two. The results of not doing it are damage to the clutch friction discs and clutch plates. It's cheaper in the long run to service the fluid than it is to replace the clutch! Earl
  15. Hey Wayne, This doesn't work as well if you are in a "Rush" to get it done, but if you have the time, Clean the Valve Covers well, put a light coat of the blue RTV in the groove of the Valve Cover. Install the Gasket, then flip the Valve Cover over on a flat surface, (Table Top, piece of glass, etc.) and place a pretty good sized book on top of the Valve Cover and let it sit overnight. Because these covers are a bear to reinstall, I like knowing that the gasket is going to stay put while I fight the covers back on. Here's another tip, The Second Gen. Valve Cover Gaskets will fit the First Gen, Valve Covers! They are wider, and have a Horizontal Rib that makes them a better Valve Cover Gasket in my opinion. When installed, there will be a bit of rubber gasket sticking out from the Valve Cover/Cylinder Head Joint. If this bothers you Wayne, just trim it off with a razor blade. I don't use the First Gen. Valve Cover Gaskets on either of my Ventures any more. The Second Gen. ones seem to last much longer, and are easier to install. This is just my opinion Wayne. Good luck with this project! Earl
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