skydoc_17

Both Jean and I wanted to take a moment and remind everyone that they don't call it "THANKSgiving" for nothing!! Thank you one and all for taking this journey with us....ALL OF US! HAPPY THANKSGIVING! Earl and Jean.

Hey Daniel, I'm just going to go down the list, and if I mention something you already knew about, I apologize in advance for that! Here goes! The angle of the slots on a METRIC Phillips Screw is different than on an American Phillips Screw. So if you're trying to get a metric screw out with that crusty old Craftsman Screwdriver, then that's not gonna' work! I'm a BIG Fan of using "Nut Buster" or "Liquid Wrench" on any fasteners I am trying to remove from my bikes. Lastly, I have attached a pic of a "Must Have" Tool when working on ANY bike, and that is a Impact Driver. The one in the pic is a bit "Fancy" but Harbor Freight sells one for less than $20. that does the job just fine. It's better to start out using the Impact Driver than to destroy the screw head and try to remove it after the fact. I hope this helps, Earl.

Hey Don, Both Jean and I hope you get well soon, and don't get the "LONG HORN"!....I mean "Long Haul" Virus! I hear that you Texacan's are susceptible to that! Earl and Jean.

Great Job John! Sadly, your new hitch might be the only thing American made on that truck! Both Jean and I wish you many "Miles of Smiles" with your new hitch! It's a GOOD thing that you stopped to check out that noise! Great Catch and repair John. Earl.

Hey Steve, It's been a while, Buddy! Are you back in NC? What are you riding these days? Don't be a stranger, (Well NO stranger than normal!) Earl and Jean.

Both my wife Jean and I are sending up prayers for Joe and his recent Stroke! As they say, "The best laid plans of mice and men!" I don't think anyone "plans" to have a stroke, but I personally am glad to hear that Joe has made it through to the other side, damaged, but still kickin'! Here's hoping that your recovery is quick and complete! Earl and Jean Harrell.

Hey Steven, Both my wife Jean and I are sending Shari prayers her way! Here's hoping that she has a FULL recovery! My wife Jean has been my "Wing Man" for over 350,000 miles of riding together over the years! She never had the courage to ride her own motorcycle, and always enjoyed riding on the back of my bike. Needless to say, I always enjoyed having her back there with me. It takes a "Special Person" to be involved in a life changing motor vehicle accident and then want to "get back on the horse", so to speak. Both Jean and I wish Shari the very best in her recovery, and also hope that this accident doesn't spoil her love of riding! Earl and Jean Harrell.

Hey John, After hearing more details about the issue, I am going to agree with Marcarl on this one! At the very least, I believe the rear caliper is no longer functioning properly. (the caliper pistons are compressing, but NOT retracting) Which leads me to believe that the right front caliper is no longer functioning properly as well. This is the point I was trying to make earlier. Chasing the lack of function of one component at a time is frustrating and it compounds the labor to effect a total repair of the system. (either brake or clutch) This is what I meant by "Biting the bullet" and just rebuilding/upgrading the entire system ONE TIME, and getting on with the Riding part of this journey. Frankly, as long as the right front caliper wasn't locking up, how would you know if it was working at all?!?! Unlike the right front caliper, which is dedicated to the right front M/C, the left front and rear calipers are "Linked" together. There isn't really a good way to isolate either the right front or rear caliper to test them. At my shop, I have a "Test Fixture" where I can connect a single caliper to see if it is functioning properly. This is why I suggested rebuilding BOTH M/C's as well as ALL of the calipers right off the bat. One Job, One Time! The next few things I am going to speak about may seem a bit "Brutal", and I apologize in advance for the following comments! To rebuild the rear M/C and lets say the rear caliper but leave the right front caliper Un-rebuilt and expecting the 30 plus year old seals of the right front caliper as well as the old rubber brake lines to handle the increased fluid pressure of all of the other new parts you installed is extremely "Optimistic" in my opinion! Secondly, as scary as a rear caliper Lock Up is, a lock up of the left front caliper at almost ANY speed, (OR right front for that matter) puts you at a VERY HIGH RISK of an 800 pound motorcycle slapping you on the back of your helmet, as well as a "Date" with the pavement!!! What's you LIFE worth, John! Bragging about Road Rash at the age of 20 is "COOL"! Being subjected to Road Rash at 45-65 years old, (or older, in my case) could be the end of my riding career. (Last brutal comment) You couldn't BUY the ash tray of a late model Gold Wing for what you have paid for your Venture. Personally, ANY bike I own NEEDS to GO properly, and STOP properly, that's a minimum requirement for me. Because of the way I ride, the three things I NEVER skimp on are Brakes, Tires, and a working Clutch System. Period! As my wife would say. "I'm Worth It"! Rant over. To find the proportioning valve, follow the rear brake line from the rear caliper to the valve. Earl.

Hey Ben, Thank you Sir, for the kind words about the De-Link Kit I offer for the First Gens. That was Very kind of you. Now, about this rear brake issue! Hey John, Both Marcarl and Saddlebum have touched on the MOST important points of the issues with the First Gen. rear brakes. I will list all of the things that I have come across during the time I have owned First Gens. (In no particular order) Because of the number of miles I ride every year, I change out my Brake and Clutch Fluid EVERY spring. ( I live in Pennsylvania, so we do not ride all year round) I found that replacing the fluids is much cheaper than repairing the damage that results from water collecting in the Brake and Clutch Systems. As mentioned above by the other two Forum members, the metal internals of the proportioning valve becomes contaminated by the collection of moisture at that location. Another issue is the fact that if you look closely at the outside of the rear Master Cylinder fluid reservoir, you will see that casted right into the reservoir is a place for a sight glass, which was never finished. (ie, NO sight glass!) Because this Master Cylinder is located right next to the right rear exhaust header, it is exposed to a tremendous amount of radiated heat. More so than any other Master Cylinder. When filling this Master Cylinder, I fill it until when I stick my baby finger in the fill port, the brake fluid just barely touches the end of my baby finger. (In case you have stubby fat fingers, (NO insult intended!) the level should be about a good one inch below the fill port) This gives the brake fluid some room to expand due to the extreme heat it is exposed to. Another issue I have come across is the use of "High Friction" performance "HH" style brake pads on the rear caliper. The extra heat developed by these aggressive pads will also overheat the Brake Fluid, and if the Master Cylinder is overfilled, will cause a "Lock-Up" condition like you have described. Another issue is the fact that your brake and clutch lines are roughly 34 years old, the interior of these lines have started to decompose, as well as starting to balloon out during the braking process. This debris in the brake lines clogs up the the proportioning valve, causing it to NOT allow the Brake Fluid to return to the reservoir, which locks up the rear brake caliper. Lastly, a warped Rear Brake Rotor will overheat the rear brake caliper, causing it to lock up. Well John, I know this looks like "The Long Way Around The Barn" so to speak, about this issue, but the point everyone is trying to make is that ALL of these issues can be addressed with some time and of course some MONEY! I try to justify the time and money by telling myself, "The Brake/Clutch System has functioned well for 34 years, if I spend the time and money to correct these issues, I should be good to go for another 30 plus years"! Because I do all of my own work, and have access to discounted parts from Yamaha due to my shop here in Pennsylvania, when I purchase a "new to me" First Gen. I usually replace ALL of the Master Cylinders as well as the Clutch Slave Cylinder right off the bat instead of replacing one part at a time until the Brake or Clutch System finally starts to function properly. I fully realize that not everyone has the mechanical ability and/or the finances to drop that kind of money/time on a 30 plus year old motorcycle! Both the Braking System and the Clutch System of these motorcycles can be upgraded into the 21st century by the "Investment" in some new OEM parts as well as the addition of some "Performance" parts. (the De-Link Kit I offer is one of the Performance parts I am talking about) It has been my experience that this usually goes one of two ways. Option 1- you bite the bullet and spend the time and money to rebuild the Brake and Clutch Systems. Option 2- the braking system issues are NOT addressed, or piece mealed one part at a time until the bike is unrideable and it is sold for a very low amount of money or even worse, the bike is parted out! BOTH of the First Gens. that I currently own, (an 87'VR and an 89'VR) were both these kinds of bikes. I purchased them for a small amount of money, replaced ALL of the perishable brake and clutch parts right off the bat, upgraded the Line Set and switched to R1 Front Calipers and have been enjoying them ever since. So at this point John, you need to ask yourself, "Is this motorcycle worth the time and money to get it to brake properly"? If the answer is YES, then feel free to PM me and let's get some new parts on this bike before the summer ends! OR if the answer is NO, then there is a place on this forum where you can list your bike for sale or sell parts off of it. I personally hope the answer is going to be YES! I would hate to see another First Gen. end up being scrapped because of the time/money it would take to "Make it Great Again" LOL! Thanks again Marcarl and Saddlebum for addressing this issue that plagues most of the First Gens. on the road today. I commend you John, for having the courage to ask for help on this Forum! Either way you decide to go here John, I hope it works out for you. Earl.

Hey Al, Sorry to hear about your trouble! I have attached an exploded view of your driveshaft. Item #36, the "Circlip" expands inside the yoke to KEEP the driveshaft from coming out. You really need to put some FORCE on the driveshaft to get it to come loose. I have seen where the circlip will "Roll Out" of the groove, and get smeared over the shaft splines. Either way, you will need to excerpt enough force on the driveshaft to get it to "Pop Out". Force on the driveshaft straight back towards the rear wheel, no matter excessive, (short of a blow torch!) will NOT damage the shaft or the yoke. I've seen these shafts beaten out of their location, with NO damage. The slide hammer trick is a much more civilized way to put a LOT of force directed towards the rear of the bike. I have used a LARGE plastic dead blow hammer many times. (I have also used a metal hammer with no damage, but it looks and sounds awful!) Compose yourself, start out gingerly smacking it with a plastic hammer, BUT be prepared to increase the carnage until the shaft pops out. Another trick I have used is to connect some cord, (Rope) to the rear frame and then to the other end of the driveshaft. Insert a screwdriver in the cord and wind the cord to put pressure on the driveshaft. (Winding the cord shortens the length of the cord) When the cord is really tight, start smacking the driveshaft to remove it. I hope this helps Al, Earl.

Don, Say it aint so!?!? I have broken bread with you at your home, I have worked on motorcycles in your garage, (NOT my own!) I have even showered in your bathroom! After all these years, you have been kind and thoughtful, and have taught me to be a better person! Not to mention, the advanced riding skills I developed over the years riding with YOU, Bongo Bobbie, Those Crazy Canucs, and of course the West New York Posse. I began my Yamaha Venture Journey when I purchased my first Venture, an 86' MKII VR back in 1991. Here we are, some 32 years later with over 350,000 miles just on the several Ventures I have owned through the years! What a journey! The quality of that journey has in part been a direct result of knowing YOU and the other members of this excellent forum. The new mantra for this forum will have to be, "What would Don Do"? ANY member that would try to put on your shoes, so to speak would earn his money, there's no doubt about that! It goes without saying that both Jean and I wish that your current vision issues work out in your favor Don. And we also wish you the best of luck finding your replacement. Maybe Elon Musk will buy the forum, and change the name to "Venture Twitter" or something catchy like that. My only regret is that after you have done so much for this Forum Don, I can do so little for you, my friend. If there is ever anything I can do for you Don, just let me know. It has been an Honor to be a member of this wonderful Forum Don, and it has been all your doing! Earl and Jean Harrell.

Hey Doug, PayPal Payment received, kits shipped. Will arrive Thursday, the 10th. www.usps.com Tracking Number is: 9505 5139 3871 3219 5646 15 Any Questions, Let me know, Earl.

Hey Doug, Kits #2 and #3- $210. Bolt Kit- $20. Shipping- $18. Total: $248.00 A Shipping Address would help. My PayPal email address is: earlfharrell@atlanticbb.net Thanks Doug for letting me help you with this project! Earl,

Hey Doug, It's nice to hear from you again! I have those kits in stock and can ship as soon as Payment is received! My PayPal email address is: earlfharrell@atlanticbb.net The total cost is $210. for the two kits, and $18. to ship. I can ship this as soon as Monday Morning! Let me know if I can help Doug, Earl.

Hey Don, Thanks a bunch for keeping us all safe! Earl and Jean Harrell.