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uthpda

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About uthpda

  • Birthday October 10

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  • Name
    Dave

location

  • Location
    St. Clair, MI

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  • City
    St. Clair

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  • State/Province
    MI

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Bike Year and Model
    84 Standard

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    Pastor

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  1. uthpda started following 84 Starting Problem , 84 LCD Questions , Front Master Cylinder Removal and 7 others
  2. uthpda
    So after lots of work.... starter clutch, stainless steel brake lines, new fuse block, etc. thanks to the collective wisdom.... I have her running again! BUT I can't see the warning portion of the LCD panel, the clock and gear are visible. Are these parts of the display feed separate? or separate lights that provide the contrast? OR is this a symptom of the soder needing to be reflowed?
  3. uthpda
    So there’s no easy disconnect for the wires that are attached to the master cylinder. I didn’t see it at the actual cylinder and tracing the wires, it looks like a soldered butt connectors in the wire harness. I was hoping that there was a plug connector that I was missing. I didn’t see a screw to a cover that reveled the soldered connection. I think I will just leave the wiring connection and work on it still on the bike. With it off the handle bars, I think I have enough play in the wires that I should be able to get it done with out disconnecting the wires, so I don’t have to resolder/reconnect the wires them. Thanks for the help! I was hoping I was just missing an easy screw disconnect or a wire plug…or something that didn’t mean de soldering wires If I am not understanding or missing something….let me know. I am hopping to get out and ride again soon. With the help from here I have changed my starter clutch, starter and a couple of other small things while I was there and now I am finishing up switching out the break lines with braided steel…thought while am doing that I would rebuild the master cylinders and calipers. All has gone ok until now. Although when the starter clutch let go it scared me to death! You are all a wealth of knowledge!!
  4. uthpda
    So BEFORE I do something stupid….thought I would ask. I am removing the front brake master cylinder to rebuild and change the sight glass. BUT the sensor wires are attached…how do they come off? I don’t want break something…so what is the secret to getting them off? I don’t see any clips or screws….and I don’t want to yank on it and break something (I have been known to do this when I get impatient)
  5. uthpda
    frankd- you are correct that is what happened, I did clean the plug before so I am not sure that is what the trouble was. I am glad it works now, I will probably use some di-electric grease on it to be sure and use the splice method (just in case) because I am concerned that the problem is not fixed. I did have some flasher problems in the past that I thought were corrected, I am now wondering if there maybe some problems in the unit. Time will tell and I am going to start considering what to do when the unit does go bad (I have a feeling it is only a matter of time). Is it possible to switch the 41R unit with two other (cheap) relays? One for the flasher (obviously w/o the cancellation) and the other for the starter circuit? Has this been done by anyone? It doesn't seem like it would be that difficult.
  6. uthpda
    Ok... more odd stuff. I looked at items on ebay and $$ is not quite there yet (have to same some money for it and with winter coming not a top priority) SO I put things back together to move the bike around in the garage and get things ready for winter. Got ready to move it and was checking to make sure things were back together right, turned the key, and hit the starter button and things worked! This makes me believe that the module might be ok and I may have a short in a wire some where. I am so confused because I thought I at least knew what the problem was, and now...not so much. I hate electrical stuff! Thanks for all the help and suggestions! This is truly a great place to be! Flyinfool - If I knew it was bad it would be yours, now I am mot sure what it is.
  7. uthpda
    Since there is the 10 pin connector going into the Flasher relay assy, I am not comfy saying check from this pin to this pin. Look at the harness connector that plugs into this assembly. From schematics, it looks like the R/W & B/Y wire is the coil circuit for SCCOR. Unplug harness from SCCOR and put an Ohm meter across these 2 pins on the SCCOR. You should read around 100 ohms( may be up to 200 ohms. 0 ohms & infinite are bad). If you do read 100 ohms, this means coil is probably good. This checks out ok Put one jumper (clip lead) from 12V+ to the R/W terminal, Put another jumper (clip lead) from 12V- to the B/Y terminal. You should hear a faint click when coil energizes. You may not though, this is relay is buried in this assembly, next check will confirm it is working or not. I don't hear a click, not a good sign Next there are 2 L/W wires in this same harness connector. Put ohm meter across these 2 L/W wires, it should read 0 ohms, disconnect one of the battery clip leads and it should go to infinite. ok, this was not fun, BUT the 2 L/W it didn't seem to matter if the battery leads we on or off it read infinite. I am guessing this means that it is bad. If it is bad are there any cheap solutions? The flashers still work (not that it matters since the bike won't start...lol), so what are my options?
  8. uthpda
    Will try that when I head home for lunch today and let you know what the results are. BTW - taptalk is an app for Android for message boards, I use it on my tablet. It is easier to carry to the garage than the laptop and my daughter was playing games on the laptop.
  9. uthpda
    ok, the L/W with 12v does change to 0 with enginge kill switch the L/W without 12v does read 0ohm when starter button hit B/Y 0ohms with clutch the R/W is 12v (actually 11.67 and goes up slighty when button pressed to 11.75 a does the L/W) any thoughts? Sent from my Full Android using Tapatalk
  10. uthpda
    OOOOHHHH, the light comes on! I thought that all that it held was the flasher and cancellation unit. Feel a little silly now! I checked things and I have L/W 12v with no change with the switch L/W with nothing R/W with 12v B/Y nothing So what do you think now? switch or relay...or do i need to test some other test?
  11. uthpda
    OK, I am confused now... At the switch/button... I have the following red/yellow - 12v blue/black - 12v which drop with button pushed in blue/white - nothing black - nothing I have found two relays in the headlight bucket (and the turn/signal unit) One is blue with a plastic relay with the following wires Blue/white Red/white -12v Black white Black The other is red with a metal relay with the following wires red/white - 12V red/white - 12v Blue/black Blue/green - 12V Pressing the switch does nothing SOOO, I have looked and looked and see no other relays, am I missing something or are the colors not right? What should I check next?
  12. uthpda
    Thanks for the help! I did get it running by jumping the L/W to the ground. My neutral light does work and I have tried starting with the clutch pulled in to see if it is the diode. I have also tried grounding the starter switch to make sure it wasn't the button. I also cleaned all the contacts on the starter button, just in case. That is why I came to the relay as the problem. I do have a voltmeter, and am willing to use it, just let me know what I to check and I will attempt it.
  13. uthpda
    is it possible to remove the start up cutoff relay? There are a bit pricey (for me at least) at about $50-$70 bucks. What effect will it have if it is removed? What systems does it effect? or is there a way to replace it with a different relay? I am running out of riding time this year and what to get in a few last rides before the snow and ice.
  14. uthpda
    At long last I am able to actually work on the bike! After some crazy times at work and running two marathons, I have some time to actually mess with the bike which is been neglected! Since my last post... (forever ago). I ordered and installed a new solenoid. It was fairly inexpensive of of ebay AND in jumping the old one i made it difficult to put back on after take in off:whistling:(and that's all I have to say about that) Sooo...with the new solenoid installed, nothing has changed. I clean the started button, nothing changed...jump the l/w on the start switch...no luck... then I backstabbed the l/w on the solenoid and she started right up. My conclusion is (tell me if I am wrong) is that the rely is bad. (someone mentioned that in one of the first posts) I am assuming it is the blue rely in the headlight boot that is the problem. Is there a way to confirm this and when can I get a new rely? Thanks for all the help so far, and please don't take my not reply in as not being thankful or the help cuz I am! I am really excited cuz she jumped right to life as soon jumped that rely...now I want to ride!
  15. uthpda
    Ok... I will check that out before I do anything else. Thanks for all the help. We update when I get stuff checked out
  16. uthpda
    Ok...jumped the solenoid and it will turn over...didn't get it started, but that is cuz I didn't want to keep it cranking (sparks make me nervous...lol) This means it is the solenoid...or that is what I gather from looking around here on the boards. I will head to the auto parts store with the info from another thread about a replacement using a car solenoid. I think this will get me going again... we check back for any more help and to update if it works.
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