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cowpuc last won the day on June 4

cowpuc had the most liked content!

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About cowpuc

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  • Birthday 04/25/1955

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    HERE AND THERE, MI, United States


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  • Home Country
    United States


  • Interests
    Playing with our Grandkids but still like to ride a motorcycle once in a while!
  • Bike Year and Model
    1983 VENTURE ALWAYS AND FOREVER! Is there another?

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  1. I have successfully used this simple method of checking for loose spokes on my motorcycles, bicycles for years and now finding myself doing the same on my E-bikes. This little trick came in VERY useful when racing Motocross, Enduros and Harescrambles on dirtbikes where the rear hub/spoke connection took major abuse but I also used it in my shop when swapping on different wheels on my Chopper builds. A simple slow spin (or not even spin at all, just go around and "tonk" on each spoke with a screw driver or other tool that could be used to make them "sing" worked fine too). Give it a try and see
  2. LOL @Condor,,, sooooo perfectly stated!!! Look at this HONKER that I pulled out when I fixed the tube!!
  3. The 20" x 4 inch wide tires on these Ebikes are rated at 20 pounds but I run em hard at 30 pounds cause our riding is on asphalt.. Running them that way gives them about a 2 inch ride patch and far less resistance when rolling. My next move as the center of these "nobbies" wear off will be to street tires. I do totally agree with you on the whole puncture resistance though BUT,,, watching for nails on the bicycle paths also works pretty good too LOL..
  4. If you use those slow speed left lane drivers as pylons on a race track its actually difficult to get upset with them LOL..
  5. Another option to those mentioned by Freebird that has worked really well for me has been to remove the OEM starter and clean the dust out of it real well, paying very close attention to the build up between the armature and communtator segments.. Kept clean my OEM 2 brush starters have served me well and worked as new when kept clean. If it were mine I would also double check stator output at the battery when warmed up as a tired stator can cause hard starting when warm too. So can carb issues, dirty plugs and so on and so forth... Maybe a quick youtube video of what its doing would help us
  6. My new aftermarket Caltric stator came with a not so perfect rubber grommet around the wires exiting the stator cavity. While did use the normal ATV gasket sealant on its contact areas along the cases I sealed its exterior areas real well with my favorite sealant = E6000 as this product has proven itself VERY worthy for MANY applications.. Simply cleaning the area real well with brake/carb cleaner the cover the area, including around the wires, and then coating with E6000 resulted in, once again, an oil drip free stator area... Worked for me,, maybe give it try? Here's the stuff:
  7. My gut tells me it sounds like a cooked stator issue. What can happen, at least has happened to me on several occasions, is the laminate on the stator coils get fried and loose their resistance to current flow across the windings ending the ability for the stator to do its job effieciently.. It is not uncommon,, again IMHO, for this to become more relevant as the stator warms up as the engine runs. My 1st Gens all had the OEM volt meter built into the dash and they were always appreciated as I could monitor my stators condition at all times while traveling cross country.. At idle the volt g
  8. Roger that says the Kettle to the Pot!
  9. Here are my thoughts as to the why J.. The shift drum has channels machined into it that the driven end of the shiftorks lay in. The "forked" end of the shift fork lays in a journal machined into each corresponding/mating gear and when the drum is rotated by that mechanism that hooks on to the pins we are discussing resulting in lateral pressure from the rotation of the drum created by your toe when you shift it results in the forks moving side to side and the gears to move side to side and mating up with gears of a variety of ratios. I have a hunch that if you were to put a dial indicator on
  10. And J telling the same story from 3 or 4 different directions and rambling on and on would have been a pretty good indicator that, as a newer member, he was already starting to pick up some bad habits that some of our clubs life long members have honed to perfection and we certainly would not want that to happen LOL. See what mean LOL
  11. cowpuc

    In Memory

    In memory and sincere gratitude for those who shed their blood and paid the ultimate price so we could live in freedom = THANK YOU!!! Puc
  12. Fools wife eats the dogs treats and his dog LOVES the fish for treats.. LOL
  13. You know,,, relooking at the pics you posted @JFootman I think I misread what I initially thought I saw.. I initially thought the tab that holds the pin in was sheared off but looking a little closer I can see that it is just bent upright (this allowed the pin to slide out???).. I also noticed that Partzilla has those parts in stock and cheap.. Here is the fishe I am looking at:https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1983/xvz12tk/shift-cam-fork and looking at part numbers 14, 7 and 8. Notice the pins (14 and 7) are different pt numbers so probably different size pins. Tell you wha
  14. Concerning the missing pieces and parts,,, thats a really good question IMHO. After getting it all apart and looking closely for the missing pin and sheared off pin ear and still finding it missing I would look carefully in the oil you drained from it on its initial oil change. Still not locatable, one option would be pulling the exhaust and removing the oil pan and seeing if those parts are in there. On the same token though, that drum/mechanism is located at the very bottom of the cases where it would be very difficult for the parts to end up in the moving parts above their location. I would
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