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Patmac6075

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    292
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About Patmac6075

  • Rank
    '84 Venture Royale

Personal Information

  • Name
    PJ

location

  • Location
    MKE, WI, United States

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  • City
    MKE

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  • State/Province
    WI

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Bike Year and Model
    1984 Venture

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  1. Just going through one of my tutorials and I noticed the picture are not showing up, perhaps you can help
  2. Kinda my thought too...but the inside of the cylinder looks decently smooth and I’ve never been too aggressive with it. Might just have to source a replacement, hello ebay!
  3. Does anyone have any experience with the All Balls brand Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit? I’m going on my fourth rear master cylinder rebuild and I’ve always used the OEM kit from Partzilla (cost on sale is about $70 on sale and about $90 when it’s not) and they seem to last about 2 seasons. It’s weird, I get two seasons and then over the winter I notice a small puddle and inevitably I’ve have lost 2/3’s of my braking power (I’m still linked). Basically, I’m tired of shelling out $70-$90 every couple years....I do lightly hone the cylinder walls with some 1000 grit nothing major, just a
  4. Although it’s always a good idea to note (and photograph) the order in which things came apart, I’ve found in my experience having the manual or an exploded view is also really helpful. There’s a good chance the guy/guys who’ve worked on your bike before you may have been less skilled than you.
  5. NGK makes a boot, for the life of me I can’t recall the part number...hopefully one of the more organized member will chime in shortly. I changed mine out a couple of years ago and they’re still running strong. I got the at O’REILLY...they were like $5 apiece.
  6. I’ll do my best here, but I’m sure some of the experts will correct me if I’m wrong, but you can use the R6 calipers on your ‘83. You will in fact need to get 2nd Gen rotors to complete the swap. I will add, upgrading to stainless steel brakes will make a huge improvement especially if your bike is still rocking original 1983 brake lines (Yamaha advised a service interval of 5 years....which nobody adhered to). If you’re going to upgrade your calipers and lines, that leaves you’re master cylinder seals as the next weakest link....as a matter of course, those should also be rebuilt at the
  7. Oh my! Truly one of the most generous people I’ve met. I am saddened deeply. Of all the advise I’ve received on this (or any ) forum...when it came from Prairie Hammer, that was it, it was fact and I didn’t need to hear from anyone else...sage advise, picture, and a screen shot from the manual. I will miss him. Pat
  8. A lot depends on the vaccine, but I’d be coming from Milwaukee....I’d love to make a day trip
  9. I cannot attest to the benefits of linked vs de-linked brakes as I kept my bike’s front brakes linked. But I can tell you that replacing my 30 year old rubber hoses with all stainless steel hoses was a huge improvement! I also replaced my front springs (with Progressive’s), rebuilt all my calipers, rebuilt both masters, and installed EBC HH pads. I went from a dangerously low amount of braking power to a more than adequate (even by today’s standards) amount of braking power and control.
  10. Ha Ha....I wish I knew how to link to it, but I did a write up that got saved into to 1Gen Tech Section. It’s about how to change to a blade style fuse box.....was pretty inexpensive and fairly easy. Also, If I remember correctly, a member Skydoc Kosloske sell a kit. Merry Christmas! Pat
  11. So long ago, and so many small repairs in between...it’s hard to remember. Right away I bought a brand new AGM battery, and I bought a new heavier duty battery cable set up from a former member (Dingy), I think Skydoc sells something similar. I also swapped my old fuse panel out for a blade setup (see my write up in the maintenance section). While I was in there I pulled my carbs and cleaned them and went after my valves...this was all within the first couple of weeks of owning the bike. Not exactly sure which of these helped or whether it was a combination of all of them together...
  12. Trying to remember when I did my bike...pretty sure every valve shim was out of spec. I was lucky though...I was able to swap around my valves (took forever), but I only ended up needing 3 new shims. Again I’m fortunate to have a bike shop near by that was willing to swap shims at no cost. Im certain my shims had never been done before I did them.
  13. I was pretty active on XJBikes for a while, I had a 550 Seca, a 750 Seca, and a 750 Maxim. I used the same handle over there as I use here...patmac6075. I really enjoyed having a member who stocked and sold just about any wear part you can think of. But just like over there, there are some really knowledgeable people who are always ready to help...I couldn’t have rebuilt my bike without the input of some really good guys! BTW, thanks for joining and welcome aboard.
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