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  1. Hello, I have a 2009 Royal Star tour deluxe. It was my dad's and my first bike so I have been learning and doing everything myself. I'm not an engine guy to begin with but I know the basics. My back brake is spongy and has harldy any pressure. I have bled the brake line. I noticed the pistons are still sticking out slighly and the pads still touch the rotar when I release the brake. Is it spongy because the pistons are not fully sliding back in giving it the normal pressure? The bike sat for almost three years and I have already fixed the front fork seals and clutch release cylinder from sitting. I'm thinking the pistons need to be cleaned same as the slabe cylinder. I bought a whole new slave cylinder but my local shop prices a new rear brake caliper at $469. Am I on the right track with my diagnosis? Can I rebuild the caliper? Am I stuck buying a whole new caliper?
  2. When I purchased my 1987 Venture Royale I noticed right off the bat that the left front rotor/caliper had major problems as did the rear caliper. The left front caliper was sticking so badly that it destroyed the LF rotor. After pricing rebuild kits for the three calipers, the rebuild kits for the front and rear master cyls. and the replacment of the bad front rotor my navigator/accountant said that perhaps I should just part the bike out! I sung the blues to SQUEEZE ( by the way thanks very much for giving me the courage to do this!)and he assured me that the solution was to replace the calipers with calipers from the Yamaha R1 and "de-link" the braking system. I really liked this idea because I also have a Honda V65 magna with the usual braking system. Both front discs operated by the hand lever and the foot pedal operating the rear brake. I purchased 2 front calipers from a 2002 R1 from Ebay for $40.00 with shipping. I also purchased a brake line set from a 2002 VMAX for $28.00 with shipping. Lastly, I purchased a set of stock, used rotors from Ebay for $55.00 with shipping. I picked up a front and rear master cyl. rebuild kit from Rick @ Buckeye Performance (by the way Rick, thanks a bunch!) and althou he was not too keen on me de-linking the brakes he was very friendly and provided excellent service, plus gave me a nice VR ORG. discount. Once the parts arrived, I removed ALL of the old brake lines, rebuilt the front and rear master cyls., installed the VMAX brake line set, moved the right front brake caliper to the rear (waiting on another good buy on a RF R1 caliper.) added a set of speed bleeders on all three calipers, and this was the beginning of the good part, I bled all three wheels out in 8 minutes!! Needless to say the braking is nothing short of UNBELIEVABLE! During one extremely hard brake test I came VERy close to lifting the rear wheel off the ground with NO front brake lock-up, and the decell was breath taking. The more brake lever you grab, the harder these new calipers work! I have included some pics, Part 2 will be the addition of an R1 rear caliper and part 3 will be the replacment of the stock front rotors with a set of modified R1 floating rotors. I will keep you posted as the rest of this story unfolds. Any questions, please feel free to ask me, SQUEEZE is the Master, I'm just the desiple. Ride Safe, Stop Safe, Earl.
  3. Finally managed to change all three sets of brake pads out for EBC FA123HH's, can not believe the difference over the stock Sumitomo pads. One thing I noticed was some slight contamination of the left front pads due to brake fluid leakage, not sure if I managed to drip some fluid out of the bleeder the last time I flushed the brakes or if the piston seals actually leak. Anyway, I was looking at the parts diagram for my '89 VR (http://tinyurl.com/4kefl2) and noticed two part numbers for the caliper seal kit: Ref# 6: 1KT-W0047-00-00 and Ref# 15: 1NL-W0047-00-0, price is within a few $$$. I don't have any idea what the difference between these two kits is, maybe somebody has ran into this problem before? Thanks in advance, Klaus
  4. I have an 83 Venture Royale and can't get my rear caliper to stop sticking. I lately bled the lines using a compressed-air powered vacuum bleeder. The brakes are more solid than they've ever been but the caliper won't stop sticking. I've tried 2 different calipers and rebuilt one of them, polished the pins, greased everything that could need it, everything is like new on the caliper -- or as "like new" as a 33 year old caliper can be. I also just rebuilt the rear master cylinder a few months back, took that back apart and put back together when I did the caliper just to make sure mc wasn't the issue. I took the slave apart too, saw no issues, cleaned it, put it back together. Everything is now cleaned and rebuilt but the problem persists. I haven't changed the brake line but it's a stainless line, at least 3 or 4 years old, maybe older (it was on the bike when I got it). One last thing, the caliper does release some and did before the rebuild too. When the brakes are applied the tire stops and can't be moved but when I take pressure off, the pistons don't retract far enough to keep the pads from rubbing. Although with the brake released I can spin the tire again. Has anyone seen this before or have any suggestions?
  5. Hi gang! I put R1/R6 calipers on the front and a front one mounted backwards on the rear of my 86'. The fronts are great but the pads are smaller than the stock venture rear caliper/pads. It works OK but I notice less stopping power in the rear and I burned up a set of pads in less than 7000 kms (mostly 2 up, fully laden w/trailer). I would like to put the original back on the rear and was wondering will a 2nd gen rear caliper fit? They look the same but I haven't read of anyone doing that. It was cheaper to buy the R1/R6 caliper for the rear than replacing my pad channeled up, sticking, 30 year original. Thanks!
  6. This is my first brake rebuild on this, my 87 model. I was getting leakage on the front wheel. and resulting loss of brake "pedal". When I took the caliper off the bike, I couldn't tell which of the four pistons was leaking. Now I realize I only have one set- not two, which is what i need to do both sides. I'm pretty sure the one closest to the banjo bolt was the culprit- I'll do the "outer" side. I guess it could have been the banjo bolt. I was going to pull the pistons. But how do you get them out without damaging them? Do I need a special tool? I thought this would be EZ. With a 14mm bolt stuck in the banjo bolt hole (inlet) I compressed one side with pliers but boy do they seem tight! Any advice?
  7. I need help guys and gals. I want to put new caliper seals front and back, are they the same? sorry I am not as mechanical as most of you and want to make sure I order the right items. Any website deals that you know of? SS brake lines as well. Thanks for any help. Ben
  8. Replaced my rear pads tonight and noticed somebody has done some modifying. Bike is a 90 MKII. Rear rotor is a vented disc and not offset. Somebody has added spacers to move the caliper closer to the wheel. Has been functional up to this point but I'm concerned about my braking efficiency. The rotor only measures about 304 mm. The rotor isn't large enough to make full contact with the pads, there is 5/16" of the pad not being used. Included are pics of the worn pads, rotor and caliper spacers. http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x337/steve_roseman/Venture/pads.jpg http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x337/steve_roseman/Venture/rotor.jpg http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x337/steve_roseman/Venture/caliper.jpg
  9. Good morning everyone, Since purchasing a non-running '92 VR back in January, I've gotten it running and have everything working on it except the back/left front brakes. I rebuilt the master cylinder and the rear brake caliper. It wouldn't bleed. I removed the line going to the front at the master cylinder and plugged the master cylinder with a flanged bolt. Back brakes bled out fine. I have intentions to de-link the rear and front brakes, but I want to get this thing fixed first. As I don't yet have the money to upgrade yet. As part of the de-link process, I've read on this site that many people are using YZF-R1 or R6 calipers, so I got a set of blue-star front calipers off an R6. $49 bucks on eBay with no shipping charge. Tested them on the bench and they looked like they were working. After installation, still couldn't bleed the brakes. I got a 65cc syringe and attached a piece of clear tubing to it and tried to pull brake fluid through the line that way. No love there, as the syringe would pull a vacuum but when I let go, it would just snap back. I felt like something was stopped up. I loosened the bleeder up by the handle bars and tried again, same result. I must be stopped up somewhere between the caliper and the top bleeder. Ok, so what now? I went out to the barn and tried the same thing on an '87 donor bike I have. I could pull air through its line just fine. So, I removed that brake line and installed it on my '92. Now when I use the syringe method of bleeding, I can pull brake fluid all the way from the rear master cylinder reservoir to the front left caliper. HOO! RAY! Finished bleeding the brakes and now I have a decent pedal and feel like I can do an upgrade from a clean baseline when the time comes (that translates to, when I get the money). If I hadn't already spent so much money on this bike, I would've already gotten the brake upgrade kit that Skydoc_17 sells and I will. Here's the link to his kit: http://www.venturerider.org/classifi...line-21&cat=22 I post this to help encourage others that it is possible to clean up a 20+ year old brake system. On bikes that have been sitting up for many years, a stopped up brake line might be preventing you from bleeding your brakes. Important: If you have an older bike (20+ years old), it would be in your best interest to replace as much of the old system as you can afford as stopping is so important and no one needs a surprise in an emergency on a high-powered 800 lb. bike. Let's go riding.
  10. Once I finally get done upgrading my rear brakes on my Hannigan, I will be looking at possible improvements with my front brakes, so I thought I'd check to see if anybody has ever gone to a better caliper, better rotors, etc. I do have SS lines to install but I'm looking for more...
  11. what size socket do you use to remove the brake pad pins from the caliper? Is it a 6mm 12 point? Thanks
  12. I found my rear caliper leaking so I'm going to rebuild it. I have rebuilt calipers on cars before and don't think it should be difficult. I just thought I would ask if there is anything special I should be aware of. The other question I have is the size of the cylinder bore if I have to hone them. I dont have my small hone anymore. So if I have to buy one, it would be nice to know what the size is. Thanks for the help.
  13. Does anybody know what the brand of brake caliper is used on the Hannigan Trike off hand? (for a couple speed bleeders) Thanks, Jeff
  14. Today I took the time to bleed and flush the clutch and the front brakes, all went well till I tried to bleed the left front caliper on the 93 trike. Pumped up the brake and broke open the bleeder, nothing came out.........so I loosened the brake line at the caliper and fluid came out. The brakes were delinked when it was triked, but evidently they didnt replace the proportioning valve for the front brakes so both would work off of the brake lever. I am in need of one so I can get more braking power to the front, 1 caliper dont work too good on a heavy trike. I guess I will have to check with Skydoc to see if he has one available.
  15. Hi, I decieded to grease my drive shaft splines and when i got it back together I see there is a gap between the caliper bracket and the washer I think I got the washer in the correct place but don't remember the gap being there ,is there suppose to be this gap ? Thanks
  16. Has anyone in the last couple of years purchased a set of Chrome Caliper Covers for an MKII on ebay? If so could you tell me what you paid for them. I need some reasonable price comparions for an insurance claim.
  17. I was about to put some anti-squeak compound on the back of my front brake pads. I notice that the manual says 18 ft-bls of torque for the caliper retaining bolts. In the tech section there is a "service data" sheet that states 29 ft-lbs for the front brake caliper bolts. So... I'm assuming that the 29 ft-lbs is for the two bolts that attach the caliper "carrier" to the fork and the 18 ft-lbs is for the bolts holding the caliper to the "carrier". Can anyone verify that for me before I take things apart? Thanks. Andy
  18. Hi All, I know the R1/R6 monoblock calipers will bolt on to our Royals front forks.. My question is if the same monoblock will bolt onto the rear? The caliper looks identical to me. Any ideas?
  19. hello all on my 1999 rsv the rear brake caliper has frozen and i can not get the plungers to move anyone that has one from a trike conversion have one thay would let go cheap i have been out of work for 6 months and dont have a lot of money. just started new job this week and bike only transportion i have. thanks for any help bumble bee kevin wisor lexington sc
  20. I'm replacing the pads on my rear brake and would like a quick confirmation/correction about the thickness of the spacers. I measure the spacers between the caliper and the caliper bracket arm at 4mm and the one between the swing arm and caliper bracket appears to be 3mm. (I'd have to pull the wheel to make sure.) Is this correct? Added question. should the disk be installed based on rotation or is that subject to which disk if at all? I notice the outside pad is not flush with the face of the disk, piston problem??? Thanks! Oh, if you missed it in my profile it's an '83
  21. 87 VR, lots of miles. I figured I'd post this in General Tech because I bet the calipers are about the same. I had noticed that my rear pads were worn thin at the aft end, but much thicker at the forward end. It had me wondering if the forward pistons were seized, but they are not. Then I noticed significant grooves, maybe 1/32" deep, in the forward surface of the brake-pad-cavity in the caliper. The braking forces shove the pads forward against these surfaces whenever the rear brakes are used, and the backing plates have worn these grooves. They then get caught in the grooves, not allowing the pads to clamp any closer to the rotors at the forward edge, causing the wedge-shaped wear on the pads. Make sense? Anybody else seen this? I thought about filing the surrounding material down to make it smooth again, but then the cavity will be bigger than it's supposed to be and the pads might not contact that surface like they are supposed to. But I don't know that I have any choice, short of replacing the caliper. Ideas? Thanks, Jeremy
  22. It’s that time of the year when many of us First Gen. VR owners are working on our bikes, so I thought I would take a moment and point out an issue I have discovered. After rebuilding over 100 First Gen. MKII VR (1986 to 1993) Rear Brake Calipers, I have noticed a trend that I wanted to share with you. Given that the MKII VR Rear Brake Calipers are at least 19 years old, and could be as old as 26 years, in the case of the 1986 model, Plus the rear of the MKII VR has one of the largest diameter rear rotors ever placed on a production motorcycle. The surface footage that is generated at the point of contact of the brake pads is so great, that the steel backing plates of the brake pads actually wear a groove in the Caliper Body! I have attached some pics of the groove worn in the body of the MKII VR caliper below. Now, this only happens on ONE side of the caliper body, so great care must be taken when inspecting the caliper when you change Rear Brake Pads. You will find this groove on the side of the rear caliper closest to the front of the motorcycle, and this is why many MKII VR owners miss this wear groove. If you find that your rear caliper has this wear groove, then replacement of the caliper is necessary. The reason being is the brake pads get trapped in this groove, and will not back off of the rotor after the rear brake has been released, causing the rotor to overheat and warp, or lock up. If the groove is not very deep, you still get reduced brake pad wear because the brake pads are staying in constant contact with the rotor. The first pic shows a cleaned up set of MKII VR Rear Caliper halves. The arrows are pointing to the groove cut in the Caliper Body by the Brake Pad Backing Plate. The next two pics are uncleaned caliper halves. This is most likely what the groove is going to look like when you remove the brake pads to replace them. I hope this information helps you with any pesky little rear brake problems you may be having. Earl
  23. Most everyone will agree, the 4 piston rear caliper is over powerful and can cause premature rear wheel lock up. Has anyone swapped out the 4 piston caliper unit for a one or two piston rear caliper unit ?? If so please let me know what was done, is there a bolt on replacement available from some other Yamaha model ?? Thanks, Mike
  24. I appreciated the "no rear brake, but do have left front brake" thread but couldn't find one that dealt with no front left brake. I replaced the pistons on the front right brake caliper as it was leaking and decided to check out the front left to see if they were wet and have found they don't move. I disconnected the hose from the front left caliper and no fluid came out even when I pumped the front brake lever. Any suggestions in what I should do next would be appreciated. I have a 1987 Venture.
  25. On my way to work tonight I noticed a grinding noise coming from the rear brake. I thought it odd as 2 days ago I put on new rear tire, brakes pads did the lube of the splines..etc...... When I tried to stop tonight the rear brake pedal was soft, managed to get her stopped and on the side of the road. Looking at the rear brakes, I find that either I forgot to install or tighten the two bolts that hold the rear caliper in place, (they were gone). The caliper was rubbing against the rim and was making the grinding noise. I was able to limp the bike to my work but now need to get things fixed up. Anyone know what size and thread pitch the bolts are for the caliper. If it wasn't metric I could make a good guess, my metric skills are lacking. Everything looks to be in good shape, and should just be able to be bolted back in place. I will prob run a tap in the caliper to chase the threads. And should I use locktite or something similar when I bolt it back in place.
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