jonsmyth
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Posts
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You'll get another someday! Things will change and you will ride again!
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One tire, bought sept 09, 9,000 miles, just cracked, warranty? I'll check. I doubt it. Avon can go to hell. Never again. What BS...
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I used the stop leak bead trick, the 35mm film sprocket cleaning trick, changed the fork oil and added about 3 oz. of the stop leak into the new fork oil. So far, so good. I will post back if this fails...
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Can U help find my oil leak? Am I screwed???
jonsmyth replied to jonsmyth's topic in General Tech Talk
The output is temperature dependent. when the bike isw cold, no problem. Once it gets warm, at idle (1100 rpm) it is about 11.5-12 v. If i brake, it draws down lower. Yesterday I was running it hard, the battery charge is low from sitting, at at a stop light it was 8v. I came straight home and put it on the charger. Above 2000 rpm, 14v or more -
Can U help find my oil leak? Am I screwed???
jonsmyth replied to jonsmyth's topic in General Tech Talk
So I do not have to pull the engine. Great! Do I need special tools? And if I remember a stator is $400! Guess I will not order that first, but it is putting out low voltage below 2000 rpm, which has been a drag. Thanks, guys! -
My 87 model has developed a significant oil leak in the last few months. It does not leak when parked, only when it warms up. It drips about once every 12 seconds, and because of the crossbar that supports the footrests, I could not tell where it was coming from. I thought it was from the shift lever, because it has always leaked a little. I removed the crossbar. It appears the leak is coming from the middle of the crankcase behind the torx head screw that is directly below the big round sidecover (with the Yamaha logo). One of the torx crankcase screws was not torqued fully, but the one pictured was. There is a tiny metal tube under the crankcase and it appears wet. The bottom of the crankcase in the front where the fins are appears dry. There is a light haze of leakage on the heads as well, shown in the last pic. It wipes off easy and I don't think it has any bearing on the drips. An I sunk here? The oil gets all over everything and is a mess. Thanks! http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/xarm.jpg http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/dripdrip.jpg http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/tinytube.jpg http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/dripdrip2.jpg See the drip??? Here is one head....They are all "weeping" a little..http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/headseep.jpg
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This is my first brake rebuild on this, my 87 model. I was getting leakage on the front wheel. and resulting loss of brake "pedal". When I took the caliper off the bike, I couldn't tell which of the four pistons was leaking. Now I realize I only have one set- not two, which is what i need to do both sides. I'm pretty sure the one closest to the banjo bolt was the culprit- I'll do the "outer" side. I guess it could have been the banjo bolt. I was going to pull the pistons. But how do you get them out without damaging them? Do I need a special tool? I thought this would be EZ. With a 14mm bolt stuck in the banjo bolt hole (inlet) I compressed one side with pliers but boy do they seem tight! Any advice?
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wow! that's a great concept! I'll see if I can find a roll and try it!
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Thanks!
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I had a business. When you have to make a profit, you no longer have your customers best interests at heart. He did not want to work on the bike. "Generally, we don't work on bikes of that age- we just loose too much money", he said. So the brick and mortar dealers wonder why I buy everything off the web. Screw them! :250::250::250:
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My big blonde just started leaking one of her fork seals. I didn't ride her for a week and she left a 10-15 drop drool. Called the local dealer, and he said it was $140 in parts (2 covers, 2 seals) and four hours at $150 an hour. I said I'd be swapping out the beer can on my holder with a can of fork oil. Joking aside, I want to do it myself- make sure it is done right. Don't I need special tools? (I have not read the manual yet- been puttin' it off!) Thanks in advance.
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I am back from Mexico, and the bike performed well- except my sticky thermostat. I pulled it, blocked the radiator with a heavy cardboard, and learned a lot about the bike's performance. My earlier issues of the stator not charging in heavy traffic- gone! At least on my bike, there is a direct relationship between charging voltage and the temperature displayed. For example- when the temp of the engine gets close to the red line- the voltage dropped to 12 volts. When the engine runs cool- the voltage is 14 or more. As the temp climbs- the voltage drops. When it runs hot for a while- the bike stops charging, and it is hard to start if I turn it off. So- Is there an alternative to a 180 degree thermstat? My bike likes to run cool! And a cooler T-stat may give me more wiggle room to the overheat condition in heavy traffic. Thanks!
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Well, I wish I had been smart enough to use the bypass valve in the first place. It was a chore getting it out. Thanks for the part numbers. I'll pick one up when I cross the border. Yes, it has brand new antifreeze and is full. It has been working great. At high speed the needle is one third up on the green...and in heavy traffic or idling it gets warm but does not overheat. Since the engine has been running cool my stator is putting out full charge and is no longer dropping when the engine gets hot. My battery is staying charged and so it starts easy. The sticking thermo was playing havoc with these systems. Thanks Again to all!
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Well, finally had a problem I can't solve immediately. The old 87 started running hot- right up to the red zone. Sounds like a sticking thermostat to me. Then it would drop. Then run hot again. And I'm in Southern Mexico, with daytime highs in the 80's. Never run this hot... So I took the old one out.It is running about 1/3 to 1/2 up the green zone. Nice and cool. I think when I come back to the US and the cold winds howl, I'll have to do the trucker trick with a block in front of the radiator...I don't want to pull this ***** again without a new one on hand! Thanks for your comments!
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Hey, guys! We are in deep Mexico- near Veracruz, and I hope I´m not in deep S My voltage is great when I first start up, but sitting in bad traffic means the bike runs hot (does not overheat) and the voltage is dropping as low as 10 volts, until I get out of town, cool it down, and open the trottle for a while. It creeps back up to 12 or 13v. if it cools down. Am I screwed? Is it the stator, or the regulator? Just looking for a few answers. Thanks!