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jonsmyth

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Everything posted by jonsmyth

  1. jonsmyth
    You'll get another someday! Things will change and you will ride again!
  2. jonsmyth
    One tire, bought sept 09, 9,000 miles, just cracked, warranty? I'll check. I doubt it. Avon can go to hell. Never again. What BS...
  3. jonsmyth
    I used the stop leak bead trick, the 35mm film sprocket cleaning trick, changed the fork oil and added about 3 oz. of the stop leak into the new fork oil. So far, so good. I will post back if this fails...
  4. jonsmyth
    The output is temperature dependent. when the bike isw cold, no problem. Once it gets warm, at idle (1100 rpm) it is about 11.5-12 v. If i brake, it draws down lower. Yesterday I was running it hard, the battery charge is low from sitting, at at a stop light it was 8v. I came straight home and put it on the charger. Above 2000 rpm, 14v or more
  5. jonsmyth
    So I do not have to pull the engine. Great! Do I need special tools? And if I remember a stator is $400! Guess I will not order that first, but it is putting out low voltage below 2000 rpm, which has been a drag. Thanks, guys!
  6. jonsmyth
    My 87 model has developed a significant oil leak in the last few months. It does not leak when parked, only when it warms up. It drips about once every 12 seconds, and because of the crossbar that supports the footrests, I could not tell where it was coming from. I thought it was from the shift lever, because it has always leaked a little. I removed the crossbar. It appears the leak is coming from the middle of the crankcase behind the torx head screw that is directly below the big round sidecover (with the Yamaha logo). One of the torx crankcase screws was not torqued fully, but the one pictured was. There is a tiny metal tube under the crankcase and it appears wet. The bottom of the crankcase in the front where the fins are appears dry. There is a light haze of leakage on the heads as well, shown in the last pic. It wipes off easy and I don't think it has any bearing on the drips. An I sunk here? The oil gets all over everything and is a mess. Thanks! http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/xarm.jpg http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/dripdrip.jpg http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/tinytube.jpg http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/dripdrip2.jpg See the drip??? Here is one head....They are all "weeping" a little..http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/bigpixels/headseep.jpg
  7. jonsmyth
    This is my first brake rebuild on this, my 87 model. I was getting leakage on the front wheel. and resulting loss of brake "pedal". When I took the caliper off the bike, I couldn't tell which of the four pistons was leaking. Now I realize I only have one set- not two, which is what i need to do both sides. I'm pretty sure the one closest to the banjo bolt was the culprit- I'll do the "outer" side. I guess it could have been the banjo bolt. I was going to pull the pistons. But how do you get them out without damaging them? Do I need a special tool? I thought this would be EZ. With a 14mm bolt stuck in the banjo bolt hole (inlet) I compressed one side with pliers but boy do they seem tight! Any advice?
  8. jonsmyth
    wow! that's a great concept! I'll see if I can find a roll and try it!
  9. jonsmyth
    Thanks!
  10. jonsmyth
    I had a business. When you have to make a profit, you no longer have your customers best interests at heart. He did not want to work on the bike. "Generally, we don't work on bikes of that age- we just loose too much money", he said. So the brick and mortar dealers wonder why I buy everything off the web. Screw them! :250::250::250:
  11. jonsmyth
    My big blonde just started leaking one of her fork seals. I didn't ride her for a week and she left a 10-15 drop drool. Called the local dealer, and he said it was $140 in parts (2 covers, 2 seals) and four hours at $150 an hour. I said I'd be swapping out the beer can on my holder with a can of fork oil. Joking aside, I want to do it myself- make sure it is done right. Don't I need special tools? (I have not read the manual yet- been puttin' it off!) Thanks in advance.
  12. jonsmyth
    I am back from Mexico, and the bike performed well- except my sticky thermostat. I pulled it, blocked the radiator with a heavy cardboard, and learned a lot about the bike's performance. My earlier issues of the stator not charging in heavy traffic- gone! At least on my bike, there is a direct relationship between charging voltage and the temperature displayed. For example- when the temp of the engine gets close to the red line- the voltage dropped to 12 volts. When the engine runs cool- the voltage is 14 or more. As the temp climbs- the voltage drops. When it runs hot for a while- the bike stops charging, and it is hard to start if I turn it off. So- Is there an alternative to a 180 degree thermstat? My bike likes to run cool! And a cooler T-stat may give me more wiggle room to the overheat condition in heavy traffic. Thanks!
  13. jonsmyth
    Well, I wish I had been smart enough to use the bypass valve in the first place. It was a chore getting it out. Thanks for the part numbers. I'll pick one up when I cross the border. Yes, it has brand new antifreeze and is full. It has been working great. At high speed the needle is one third up on the green...and in heavy traffic or idling it gets warm but does not overheat. Since the engine has been running cool my stator is putting out full charge and is no longer dropping when the engine gets hot. My battery is staying charged and so it starts easy. The sticking thermo was playing havoc with these systems. Thanks Again to all!
  14. jonsmyth
    Well, finally had a problem I can't solve immediately. The old 87 started running hot- right up to the red zone. Sounds like a sticking thermostat to me. Then it would drop. Then run hot again. And I'm in Southern Mexico, with daytime highs in the 80's. Never run this hot... So I took the old one out.It is running about 1/3 to 1/2 up the green zone. Nice and cool. I think when I come back to the US and the cold winds howl, I'll have to do the trucker trick with a block in front of the radiator...I don't want to pull this ***** again without a new one on hand! Thanks for your comments!
  15. jonsmyth
    Hey, guys! We are in deep Mexico- near Veracruz, and I hope I´m not in deep S My voltage is great when I first start up, but sitting in bad traffic means the bike runs hot (does not overheat) and the voltage is dropping as low as 10 volts, until I get out of town, cool it down, and open the trottle for a while. It creeps back up to 12 or 13v. if it cools down. Am I screwed? Is it the stator, or the regulator? Just looking for a few answers. Thanks!
  16. jonsmyth
    Guys- I know some of you may have interest in this. I NEVER intended to ride in snow...but we got stuck in a once per 20 year phenomena. We had an inch on our tent at 9AM. Don's battery failed- we had to charge it, but the Texas State Park let us use their charger, and by 3 we were on the road. The pavement was freezing, but by days end the snow stopped. We had Walmart chemical warmers but it was miserable. I am now in a nice cozy Motel 6 in Victoria, Texas. It will be in the 20's when we leave tomorrow. I'm just glad we got out of Houston before this crap hit us! I started a new blog, an since I like theatrics, am going by the blog name of Skeeter Speaks. You can find it here: http://skeeterspeaks.blogspot.com/2009/12/motorcycling-in-snow.html Please take a look if you want. I'll be posting more when we get south of the border. Thanks to all that have helped me in the past!!!!
  17. jonsmyth
    Hey, Earl, I forgot to tell in the post that I removed the washers, and slid the cir-clip from the middle of five positions to the next higher position on the main jets, because my plugs were so sooty when I bought the bike. Maybe I should lean it out to the leanest position? I hate to go to all the trouble, re-sync the carbs,etc...just to find out it will be too lean! The plugs now after 1 K miles looks good.... Thanks!
  18. jonsmyth
    I changed my plugs, put in new diaphragms (3 out of 4 had lots of holes), ran seafoam, synced the carbs, and my mileage went all the way up to 40mpg. Recent tanks it dropped to about 35-37. So I did the modification whereby I put in a small crankcase filter, and plugged the holes to the airbox and removed the "T" fitting going up to it. Many thanks to skydoc-13 and his write up on how he did this. My mileage is back at 40mpg. One of my cylinders warms up just a tiny bit slower... when i check it with my hand...(back right). I'm not sure that is the problem. Bike runs well, starts right up. Should I recheck the sync? How often does one syc the carbs? The plugs are clean, I have lost 3 mpg somewhere! Thanks
  19. jonsmyth
    There is not obvoius pulsing. Just changes with the rpms- totally normal to drop brilliance with slow idle. here is the bulb. (except without the blue coating)[ATTACH]38506[/ATTACH] Sorry for the confusion. Found some for $3 online on sale. I'll just change them out...
  20. jonsmyth
    Yeah, I thought a diode may be good because I don't know how pure the rectifier on board is doing. The resistor would help i'm sure, because most bulbs will last way longer with a significant drop in voltage...but it is a tradeoff. I just don't want to chage bulbs alot. It may even be cheeper to buy the whole kit on sale than buying bulbs!
  21. jonsmyth
    sorry. They are 55watt, standard bulbs for driving lights. The replacement was identical to the original, except a contact was a spade rather than the bullet. 55 watts- divide by 12 = about 4.5 amps... Does that help?
  22. jonsmyth
    Hey you Electrical Engineers- can't I add a diode from radio shack to drop the voltage or regulate pulsing a little in my 2 (55watt) driving lights I added to my ride? The first one only lasted 15-20 hours. i suspect the real culprit was the incesssant shaking...but a small drop in voltage may help!??? I know ohms law but you guys have thought this out better I'm sure.
  23. jonsmyth
    Screw the corporate overlords. If they will not take reponsibility for disintegrating tires, and my possible death, or the death of any rider, they can go to hell. Do car tires work on first gens? I'm ready. If someone starts a class action lawsuit, I'm all over it.
  24. jonsmyth
    I meant a avon python on the front.. early alzheimers setting in....
  25. jonsmyth
    i've upped the pressure to 42 rear. The front has an cobra- but i upped it also to 40... Now i gotta worry about the tire exploding...wish I had known....
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