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  1. Hey all you First Gen Gurus, Last fall I noticed what I thought at the time were indicators of a bad stator on my '83 Venture. I was riding it and noticed that when I would turn on my turn signals the voltage needle would fluctuate each time the turn signals flashed and also when the radiator fan would come on the voltage would dip from 14 - 16 volts down to about 10. Since it was time to put it in the barn (and also because a mechanic told me replacing the stator would require pulling the engine and a huge labor bill) I decided to deal with it this spring. Over the winter I kept a trickle charger on the battery and started it up every few weeks and it always seemed like it was putting out about 12 - 14 volts as long as it was running at idle. Since I wasnt riding it, i didnt see any of the earlier mentioned behaviour. When I got it out this spring suddenly the battery seemed to be dead, the voltage meter is at the bottom of the scale even after the charger has been on for 2 days at 2 amps. So now Im thinking dead cell in a reasonably new Deka Gell battery. The big question is...can a battery thats going bad make a non-techie boy like me think its the stator? Or is it more like the stator is bad and now the battery is as well? Or could it be the voltage regulator not functioning and not charging the battery or sending the correct voltages to the lights/instruments? Any advice or opinions would be welcome......Im also trying to decide if its time to put the old girl up for sale as a parts bike or fixer upper. Thanks! George0fthejungle
  2. And the hits just keep on coming. So the battery showed up today (thanks skydoc_17) and I put it in and she fired right up. Just as a double check since I was there I checked for charging voltage and I only had 12.30. I increased the idle and it only went up .2-.3 volts and the longer it ran the lower the voltage dropped. My background being with cars not motorcycles I'm asking here, where do you start with these? Is there fuses for the charging system on these or do I go straight to the regulator?
  3. Got my bike all put back together with the new stator today, still no charging voltage at the battery. Pulled the connector off the R/R (was smart enough not to bolt it back in place) and checked for battery power, ground and voltage. I have everything at the connector now and charging voltage went up to 125 volts when I ran the idle up to ~4000 volts. Everything looks good stator side and with battery power and ground at the plug I have to assume the R/R is bad. Just looking for verification that I didn't miss something before I order one.
  4. Looking for a Voltage gauge for RSV. Wanting something that mounts clean and looks good. Added heated jackets for me and the wife and want to keep tabs on the charging system while using them. Anybody have one on their bike that they love?
  5. Has anyone had a stator go south on a 2nd Gen RSV? I'm only getting 9.5-12.5VAC at the voltage regulator plug and the same voltage at the stator plug.
  6. I know there was a group buy for the Shindengen voltage regulators, but I didn't buy one then. Now I see that the Shindengen is a series voltage regulator, not a shunt regulator like the original. This means that the stator will be cooler because full current won't always be flowing, and should last longer. Does anybody know a good place to buy one?? http://roadstercycle.com/images/Shinde1.jpg
  7. I just bought a 88 Venture. Love it but the air ride does not work and the display shows NOTHING. Pulled the white plug and checked all conections No voltage anywhere. Any ideas. Also, has anyone ever relaced the CLASS with manual gauges and switches? May sound lo-tech but Po' boys got lo-bucks. Thanks
  8. Good day everyone. I need some help. I am trying to locate a connector that plugs into the voltage regulator/rectifier for a 99 Royal Star Venture. The primary red and black wires need to be at least 12 guage wiring with about 6 or 8 inches to the wire in length. If anyone has one they would like to sell please contact me. Thank you!!!! Dan
  9. Trying to make an adapter to use Harley Headsets on my bike but I need to know what the voltage is for the mic preamp in the Harley headset. Anyone know this or willing to check pins one and four on their late model Harley for me?
  10. My passing lights have quit working. I split the fairing to check it out and found that the switch , fuse and wiring are all ok. I pulled the the 2 + leads from the double bullet connector going to the lamps and checked voltage, I have 11.7v at that point. When I plug the 2 + leads back into the double bullet connector my voltage goes to 0.0v It is not blowing fuses. I have played with the wires going into the light bar and it still won'n light. Why would my voltage drop to 0 when I plug in those two + leads but not blow a fuse?
  11. OK question, is it possible to have enough voltage to start the bike but not enough to make it run properly? Today 2 times when I went to start it the thing spin then I thought it was started but didn't so I hit the button again and it fired right up. I then noticed that the trip odometer went back to zero both times. I have also noticed that the bike runs a little different lately nothing major and I have lost about 3 mpg. The bike starts very easy so do not have to crank more than a second or two. Thanks Rick
  12. Hi folks, I've been tracking a charging problem on my machine and using the electrosport troubleshooter I believe I have the problem identified. As I see it, the brown wire on the R/R is an input to the unit and should supply system voltage to the R/R. It reads low on mine at the connector nearest the R/R. In my belief, connectors, then switches are more likely than wire to create voltage drops. The connector nearest the R/R checks OK in that voltage is the same on both sides (LOW). Where else should I look / test? Other connectors in the signal circuit to the R/R? How do I test out the ign switch? The other fix could be a later R/R with an internal sensing that would not rely on the brown wire to monitor voltage. I believe the Shindengen unit is like this. What is the list wisdom on this. The Electrosport guide indicates this is the hardest fault to find and, honestly, I need a hand. Everything I wrote above could be wrong, I'm building my Venture charging knowledge up even as I post this. Thanks in advance!
  13. ----in one of my work benches. I was looking for something and re-discovered this thing. I think it is a voltage regulator.?.?. Many, many, many (those are to explain my memory loss) years ago my '84 Venture Royale stopped charging. As I recall, I first changed the voltage regulator (cheap way out if it worked), but that did not fix it. I replaced the stator and it was like brand new. This thing has followed me around from Southern California to Michigan to Indianapolis. I do not know if it is the replacement I bought or if it's the one off of my VR. My guess is that it is the original from the VR. I do know it will not fit anywhere on my GL 1800. Here's the deal--- if you can identify it and have a need for it (or just want it), you can have it for the shipping cost. I would probably try to send it parcel post. No guarentee, but as I can best recall, it was working fine and I would not have kept it if I did not think it was O.K.
  14. I recently installed a voltage meter. It has a stock Stator. It has a non AGM battery. My question is what should be the approximate proper reading when: 1) At an idel of about 900 rpms 2) At running speed of say 65 mph in 5th gear 3) After a 24 hour charge with a 2 amp battery charger. What mininum voltage reading should I be concerned with. My 89 VR has the standard lights with the addition of a set of Wallmart Plattium Burners (55 watt). I heard many postings to swap out to 35 watts, with a couple that says that 55 watts are ok. I thought that if I knew the proper voltage reading that the reading would determine if I need to go to the 35 watts. I do have several LEDs on. 4 Turn signals, 2 additional stop lights all from Custom Dynamics, but being that they are not all the time and they are LEDs thought they would have mininum inpact.
  15. The right side horn has quit working on my RSV. The horn in the left cowling is still working but it is useless. I've heard babies cry louder than it sounds. I didn't particularly want to go with the air horn mod, so I hunted around and found a nice looking replacement auto horn. Plugged in the new horn and it doesn't work at all, not only that, it also kills the other horn as well. Neither horn works with the new horn plugged in. Removed the new horn and the left horn works again. Measured the voltage available at the horn connection and got full battery voltage. Don't have the meter to check current draw. Per the wiring diagram, there are no hidden connectors in line to drop voltage under load. Checked the new horn by jumping directly to the battery and it works fine. Just doesn't work when pluged into the harness. My question: is there something special about the OEM horn on the RSV? Does it take less current than an automobile horn? Other ideas?
  16. ok.....just got back from Daytona.........i had to use my heated gear, gloves, jacket liner, pant liner.....what would cause the charging system to , at one time , to be showing proper voltage ( 13.8) with everything on....then later , voltage down to 12v...and then back up to maybe 13.2 ,,etc...and i'm not talking about the thermostat cycling off and on.....if i turned of the pants and jacket, the voltage would go to normal......gerbing heated clothes..and i have the updated stator.........the way i understand the stator, is that it's basically has "3 phases "...so , one could be acting up ?......what else...
  17. Figured there was no sense joining yet another forum. All the smart folks are here. Got a 2003 Honda Recon atv. One of the headlight is very dim. Is it most likely just need a new bulb or is that light not getting enough voltage. No, I have not yet swapped bulbs to check, so maybe I should not even be posting this yet.
  18. Getting an E4 error message on my compressor and the manuel states that this indicates "The pressure sensor has no output voltage". Where do I look to correct this? Thanks, Norm
  19. This information will seem like old hat to those of us who have been around these bikes a while, but what I will explain below is that knowing and understanding something it is NOT the same as grokking it! This may be a little long, but I'll do my best to keep it concise. If you have noticed voltage fluctuations on your bike, this thread's for you. The problem: For at least the last 20,000 miles I have had intermittent periods of low voltage on my 05, but only when running extra load like passing lamps. Occasionally the voltage while riding would drop down below 12, and at idle even below 11. But if I turned off the driving lamps it would jump all the way back to 13.8 - 14. I also noticed that when the voltage was low, often just a sudden increase in load such as a quick touch of the air horn or just flashing the high beams would cause the voltage readings to go back to normal. I have NOT had any problem with dead battery. Although my bike is close to 100,000 miles and has the original six year old battery in it, I also noticed this identical problem on the 07 I had for a few months. This was a clue that I ignored. Analysis: These are absolute classic symptoms for bad wire connections or pin contacts in plugs. Since the voltage was only low when the load was high, it indicated that excess current was being sucked from the battery instead of being supplied by the bike's charging system. The fact that it was not always low under those conditions proved that the charging system did have the full capacity, but it was not always being delivered to the battery. On the Royal Stars, the plug connecting the regulator/rectifier is a know problem with the pins for the main 12V and ground wires often overheating and melting the plug. The excess heat that melts the plug is caused by poor pin contact that works like a resistor. Long ago I pulled this plug and it looked perfect. I also pulled the plug for the three stator wires, and all looked good there too. Over the past year or two I have periodically checked just about all plugs and wires, including grounds and battery cables without finding any problems. This problem can also be caused by an old or defective battery that just sucks up too much charging current, so this knowledge coupled with the fact that I still have the original six year old battery in the bike made me assume that had to be the cause. I never did see an excess charge current flowing into the battery on the ammeter, but just assumed that was because the only ammeters that are available these days have a + - 60A swing, and that is just too much to accurately see current flow on a 30A max motorcycle. I was just waiting for the bike to show some slow cranking to buy a new battery and prove the point. The problem has been getting noticeably worse in the past few months. Still not having charging problems, but probably because I have been mostly leaving the driving and passing lights off. If I did not have full gauges and monitor them regularly, I probably would never even have a hint that there was a problem at all. If the battery had died two years ago, I would have just assumed it was normal old age for a motorcycle battery. Surprise easy fix: Well today I decided to pull the regulator/rectifier one more time to check that plug. It still looked perfect. Although this circuit seems to be designed on the absolute minimum of what is needed for the 30A current, the plug does have a very good rubber seal in it that keeps out the crud if the plug is properly seated, and even after close to 100,000 miles, mine still looked like new. But still, I took the time to plug/un-plug the thing about 10 times to scrape the pins good, then I took a pair of needle nose pliers to slightly tweak the pins for the big red and black wires - the idea here was to make them press harder on the fittings in the plug and guarantee good contact. Well guess what? When I took it out for several hours, even with fairly low battery voltage to begin with from sitting for several weeks, the system voltage NEVER DROPPED EVEN ONE TIME! This was an obvious fix that I should have done a couple of years ago, but the fact that my plug never showed any signs of heat problems fooled me into believing there must not be any problem with the pin contact there. WRONG. The moral here is that even when things look right, they may not be. Never hurts to go the extra distance to clean/re-seat/tighten something that you suspected in the first place. It sure won't make things worse, and it just might fix it! Goose
  20. I'm trying to add an LED strip to my brake light. When my brake light is on (brakes on) I'm pulling 11.5 volts, but when its not on I'm still pulling 7.5 volts. This low voltage causes my LED to light defeating its use as an additional brake light. Is this voltage normal? My existing brake and running light works fine, but this low voltage is messing me up. Thanks for any help!
  21. Well, After my second no start because the battery had lost it's juice, I finally installed the high output mosfet regulator. The AAA, gave me a boost (Boy I'm' glad I have it!) I was getting Burger's after my night shift. well I thought it might do this RRRR click click.: So I got back to the garage and tore into her found the side cover leak I had fixed it as well. Boy what a stupid place for a voltage regulator!! So I will find out later today if it works Sorry no pics I was a little pi#sed off. but now its' done. Cheers Mike R. In Calgary..
  22. Back off voltage moniter. It uses a single led indacator http://cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=BOVOLT Im looking at this one and the Kuryakyn voltmeter. PROS: Back off is a single LED very little space needed. Kyurakyn Shows accurate system voltage. CONS: Back off only gives you a general voltage range. Kyurakyn is a larger mount and adds clutter. Just wondering what you all would prefer? I want to have my cake and eat it too. No clutter and accurate volt readings.
  23. Her is a new one that I can not figure out. I have a 96 GMC K1500 P/U, pretty much loaded with all of the toys. Whenever the engine hits 4000 rpm the alternator shuts off. The voltage drops from the normal 14.2 down to 11.5 and all of the lights dim noticeably and the truck starts to run rough. As soon as the rpm drop back under 4K the voltage comes back, The voltage changes like you threw a switch, it does not come in and out gradually. This voltage drop is being measured on both the dash gauge and a separate digital voltmeter. It does not matter if I am driving or parked, it still does this right around 4K rpm. It has been doing this for a couple of years now. I have since replaced both the alternator and the battery (yes they were bad) but that had no effect on this problem. Any ideas??? As long as I stay under 4k the charging system is fine. Typically the only time I do hit 4K is when I pull out to pass a slowpoke on the highway and the trans downshifts.
  24. I am back from Mexico, and the bike performed well- except my sticky thermostat. I pulled it, blocked the radiator with a heavy cardboard, and learned a lot about the bike's performance. My earlier issues of the stator not charging in heavy traffic- gone! At least on my bike, there is a direct relationship between charging voltage and the temperature displayed. For example- when the temp of the engine gets close to the red line- the voltage dropped to 12 volts. When the engine runs cool- the voltage is 14 or more. As the temp climbs- the voltage drops. When it runs hot for a while- the bike stops charging, and it is hard to start if I turn it off. So- Is there an alternative to a 180 degree thermstat? My bike likes to run cool! And a cooler T-stat may give me more wiggle room to the overheat condition in heavy traffic. Thanks!
  25. OK, so winter has its icy grip on me. Time to install the Shindengen voltage regulator I bought from Dano in the group buy and adjust the valves on the 86. The Shindengen regulator was first on the list. When it was first talked about on this site it was said that this replacement voltage regulator is far superior to the old one but not the same dimensions. This poses a problem for the mounting. The Shindengen is too wide to mount in the stock position. I found that it would hit the muffler and not let the muffler be mounted. Mounting it here seemed detrimental to me because of the heat factor also. So an alternate site has to be found. You have to give credit to the Japanese for this bikes compactness of its various components. The Shindengen regulator was mounted in the left air-duct on Saltydog 83 std. This to me sounded like a excellent place for mounting with one exception. I was worried about any high frequency interference in my radio being that it would be mounted under it. I for one like my FM radio. Like a local station says in its promos "There's no weather warnings on a I-pod". So my choice was the right side air-duct. The installation was tight but do-able. I started it after buttoning it up, no radio noise and it works just like it was explained. Ramping up slowly,perfect. So far so good. The valves have never been done on my 86 to my knowledge it has roughly 38,000 mi. So I start to line up the necessary gaskets, shims and tool. The gaskets and shims are no problem. The tool thats a problem in itself. Seems nobody stocks this tool. Unless your willing to spend bu-ku bucks for it. I'm cheap. I know it. So that being said, I started to make my own. It started out life as a 13/16-7/8 box end wrench that was modified earlier for some past job. The box width was pretty close to what was needed. Randy R contributed pictures of what the tool actually does. Which helped to get a mental pic of the valve tools dimensions. Plus Dingy posted a PDF file of a original tools dimensions. The total thickness of the 13/16 wrench wasn't enough to depress the shim buckets. So after welding the outside some to build it up and grinding it flat the appropriate thickness was achieved. The size 13/16 didn't fit the cam hex at first so some filing was done until it did. It worked like a charm! Total time involved in making the tool was roughly 2-3 hours. It isn't pretty but it works. Valves done. Thanks to everyone for the great writeups on the Shindengen voltage regulator and valve settings. Also the PDF charts and pictures about both. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=39671&d=1262284449
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