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VR Assistance

Found 19 results

  1. I just bought a r/r on ebay because my battery was not getting the correct voltage and I did the voltage test that was recommended. The bike was running fine at this point, just not charging the battery. (83 Venture) I recieved the used R/R and installed and the battery picked right up. I thought all is well until now the bike seams to be missing and the tach keeps dropping. from the assorted forums I suspected I had a bad TCI or moisture ect. I did the ohms test on the cables. After removing both plugs from the TCI and testing the 6-pin connector's black wire I did not get a connection to ground on the neg battery cable. the 8-pin connector's black wire tested good. I did notice the ground connection would be made through the TCI if the 8-pin was connected to the TCI. Is this Correct? Shouldn't the 6-pin cable be be indpendent and not rely on the TCI to ground the pick up points. Regardless the R/R that I got seemed to cause me problems because once I disconnect it, the bike runs fine again. I could use some help from some one who may have gone thru this already.
  2. I must say this JOB is compleat... New Buckeye Stator and R/R from SkyDoc. I now have all kinds of power with everthing on I am sitting at 14.3 volts and with lights turned off I am at 14.8 volts.... never had that before. Also never had two green bars on my led meter. Pics of the battery bug and the new R/R plug and play. Difficulty of this Stator install is about 7.5 lots to do. Difficulty if the new R/R install 1.0 simple. New R/R are on the right in the photo's. Jeff [ATTACH]64639[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64640[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64641[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64642[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64643[/ATTACH]
  3. Hi all I'm new here to the site and looking to purchase a 2009 or later RSV. Im coming from a VTX but wanted more of a full dress tourer. I usually run in the winter heater jacket, pants, gloves, gps, and charge my phone. With the RSV in addition I wanted to get a heated seat and grips. From the readings on this site it seems to make that combination work I have to upgrade the stator and and R/R. My mechanical knowledge is limited to brakes and fluids so I would probably have to take the bike in to have this work done. My questions is are there any downfalls to have this done, will the dealers know how to install this R/R or will I have to take it to a different motorcycle mechanic and finally after this is done will I have any other problems associated to the upgrade with the bike. I see some people have gone through several stators but I'm not sure why they go through so many. Im very interested in the bike and appreciate any education you guys can provide on this Thanks Vince
  4. Anyone ever hear of Metric Parts Outlet in Rogers Ark? they have a R/R for $63.00 plus, 10.32 shipping.
  5. Turned meter to OHM 200 @ (20 there was no reading) the R/R @ 1-2 1-3 & 2-3 all showed 1.6 ohms (the 2.0) the second time no loose pins & wiring was clean,, no burnt pins
  6. OK after fnding out my supposed better than stock R/R is worse than the stock one, only putting out 13.7V instead of the 14.0 from the stock one, and discovering the aftermarket one gets dragged down worse than the stock one, I have decided to do some research. Did a msearch here but no mention of any aftermarket R/R's!! Sooo, who knows of a good heavy duty voltage regulator for a 2nd Gen?? No, I do not know what brand aftermarket one I installed, I bought it along with the high output stator from Buckeye a couple of years ago but just got around to installing it this spring. It's in the trash right now...
  7. Hey everyone, all of my searches at Rick's Motorsports Electrics and at Buckeye Performance has tuned up...nada...in regards to an upgraded high output Regulator/Rectifier. I just replaced my Stator with a new High output one from Buckeye. Job Done ! Now I need the new Regulator/Recifier to allow me to flow all that extra juice. I have viewed and followed every thread and link I can find on this forum regarding this. Does anyone really know a company that makes or sells an upgraded higher output Regulator/Rectifier for the newer RSTD or Ventures ??? And while I just know that one or more of you are going to suggest the Shindengen R/R, I have done a lot of searching there too, and I have not found definitive info on exactly which part number would be used for my 2006 RSMTD. Thanks,
  8. I'm helping a friend with his 83 venture, not charging, at all. At the 3 white wires from the stator, I am getting between 9-11 volts on all white wires, however, when I measure from any white wire from the stator to grd, I am getting continuity. As I understand, there should be no continuity from the stator wires to grd. Also, I have tested the diodes in the rectifier, with a DVOM on the diode test position, and I have continuity in both directions, on all diodes except 2. Again, as I understand, there should only be continuity in one direction of a diode, so that fails the r/r as well. My question is, am I right in these conclusions, or am I missing something. Also, I think this is an aftermarket r/r. It has the 3 white wires, 2 black wires and 2 red wires. Also, there is no brown wire, which I read in previous posts, this is a voltage sense wire for the factory original r/r, not the aftermarkets. All comments will be appreciated, thanks.
  9. So I'm trying to re-mount my R/R that fell of the other day. (I would copy the link to my previous post and pics but I haven't figured out how to do that yet) The bracket that the exhaust hanger mounts to, as well as the R/R, is slightly bent now and I'm not sure if the forward mount for the R/R is correct. So my question(s) is... Does the front of the R/R mount to bolt that also secures the fuel pump and is the R/R suppose to touch the drive shaft housing at all, cuz mine is. I still need to straighten the exhaust hanger bracket to properly secure the rear portion of the R/R but it seems, based on the pics, that the R/R will still be in contact with the drive shaft housing, towards the front, and I'm assuming that moves as the rear suspension is "activated." Can someone confirm that proper mounting for the R/R on my 86 VR and possibly post a pic for my visual brain?
  10. After taking the long way home from work last night my brakes felt a little funny. While inspecting the rear brake pads, which I noticed are non-existent, I saw what I think is the R/R laying against the drive shaft housing and the frame. After pulling the left side panel and the pass. foot rest mounting bracket I disconnected the two wire bundles and tried to pull the R/R out. It was still partially attached by one bolt to the bracket that holds the rear exhaust hanger but only barely hanging on. It was not attached all to the front but the bolt was still there? When I first bought the bike a few weeks ago I noticed that the left exhaust/muffler was not even with the right side when looking at the bike from the rear. After comptimpating this for several hours I think I've determined the following.... at some point the R/R loosened and the front portion fell down by the drive shaft housing causing it to push against the frame when the rear suspension travels up and down. (note the broke fins and fin marks on the drive shaft) Which in turn pushed against the mounting bracket forcing it outward. (note the chipped paint and rust marks on the bracket) So my question(s) is.... #1. Is this the R/R #2. Will the couple of broken fins on the back be an issue #3. Can I/would you straighten that bracket to even up the mufflers #4 Can someone send or post of pic of the rear of their bike so I can see the alignment of the exhaust #4. What brake pads are recommended for my 86 VR As always, any and all comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated!
  11. Hi guys, I purchased two MOSFET R/R's a while back in the group buy along w/the weather proof connectors. Put one R/R on my '83 Vison. It's great. Now I am putting the other on my 87 Royale. Well, I buggered up one of the metal terminals that are to be used w/OEM weather proof connector. Seems after 30 years in electronics I still make mistakes. I like the weather proof connectors. I checked Eastern Beaver electrics for the parts. I only need a $.59 metal terminal. But, they have a $20 minimum order. Again, I want to use the weather proof connector assembly. So, does anyone have spare metal ternimals for this connector type or knows where to get them w/o a $20 min. order? Thanks in advance...Jason
  12. Hi folks, I've been tracking a charging problem on my machine and using the electrosport troubleshooter I believe I have the problem identified. As I see it, the brown wire on the R/R is an input to the unit and should supply system voltage to the R/R. It reads low on mine at the connector nearest the R/R. In my belief, connectors, then switches are more likely than wire to create voltage drops. The connector nearest the R/R checks OK in that voltage is the same on both sides (LOW). Where else should I look / test? Other connectors in the signal circuit to the R/R? How do I test out the ign switch? The other fix could be a later R/R with an internal sensing that would not rely on the brown wire to monitor voltage. I believe the Shindengen unit is like this. What is the list wisdom on this. The Electrosport guide indicates this is the hardest fault to find and, honestly, I need a hand. Everything I wrote above could be wrong, I'm building my Venture charging knowledge up even as I post this. Thanks in advance!
  13. Ok, I finally got around to installing the Shindegen R/R that Dano hooked me up with a while back. Game plan.....under the seat install. No problem. Yeah right. Seems to be a lil tight under there or maybe my big tail section has just compessed it more than it should be. Maybe. But I ended up installing it inside the left fairing mounted on the black inner fairing. I got rid of the amp for the cassette deck long ago and had a lil room to play with there. So I got it mounted up tonight and ran the new harness and capped the old wire and fired it up. Don't fret about the connectors.....it will all be soldered together tomorrow. I know some of you have done this mod already but I was impressed with the output and how stable the charge was. The OEM R/R would always show a bit on ramping up and down on the digtal volt meter. Not this thing. I didn't get a good reading at idle yet as the bike was cold and I didn't run it very long but when I reved it up it jump right to 14.4 and sat there. No ramping at all. I threw on the two 65 watt driving lights (the true test) and it dropped to 14.2. And sat there. No ramping. Not bad. So between Buckeyes upgrade stator, the Shindengen R/R and the DEKA AGM battery I don't think it can get any better than this. Great combination. Some days ya win one. Mike
  14. I have a 1990 VR with 96K miles on it. Been a GREAT bke! Recently had the stator go out. During my research here for threads on replacement ideas I came upon a discussion about replacing the R/R whenever you replace the stator. From reading these posts I concluded I should also replace the R/R. Just for good insurance if for no other reason. Question: Is there any way I can get in on the group buy deal for one of those Shindengen FHO12AA regulator / rectifiers ? Does any one have an extra one they would part with ? I can find them else where but you guys worked the best deal I can find. GREAT job ! Thanks for the help. Red Baron
  15. Ok, this is pretty much a story of cause and effect. Earl and Dano know what happend but now I think I can explain why it happend. About a week ago I had an electrical problem. Lost my charging system out on a ride. Voltage was dropping like a rock but I was able to get it back home before I lost power. (thank you DEKA AGM) When I got home I saw smoke coming out from the left side by the swing arm. Well, that is where the R/R is mounted. Tried to start the bike again in the garage and blew the main fuse. Long story short....tested the stator, a 2 year old Buckeye upgrade, looked for shorts in the wiring and found none. Replaced the main fuse and tested the system. Looked like everything else was fine. Pulled the R/R I installed about 3 years ago. It was an aftermarket unit, (not the upgrade Shindengen upgrade), and it pretty much started to fall apart as I removed it. As you can see from the pics it is more square and thicker than the OEM unit so I had to fab up a new mounting bracket to hold it in place. That was where I went wrong. I lost my main fuse because the R/R shorted to ground. On a three year old quality unit....why? Not supposed to happen. Looking at all the pieces now I'm pretty sure I know what happened. The new fabbed up mounting bracket left the new R/R hanging a bit lower than the OEM unit. I had room at the time and had no reason to be concerned about it. BUT.....about a year later I bought a new set of MAC pipes and installed them. Still had room for clearance on the R/R but it was closer to the MAC's than it was with the stock pipes. About 3/8 of an inch was all I had. And these things get warm all by themselves. Didn't need to add to that. SO.... when I pulled the R/R off I saw the bottom section of the rubber electronics potting was burned and brittle. Pieces came off in my hand as I removed it. That was the section that was closest to the pipes. You can see the damage in the pics. Heat ....pure and simple. I opend it up and the R/R is singed all the way through. So, in my opinion, I caused the failure by not making sure the unit had more distance away from the pipes. If anybody else has a better explaination I'm open to your thoughts. D'oh. Next time I'll have a better plan...... Just call me Sparky. Mike
  16. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37971 (look at first post) In one of the old Shindengen regulator/rectifier threads, someone mentioned using a XV535 regulator/rectifier on a VR. Since I have an XV535 with a dead R/R, is it possible to use one of the Shindengens that were part of the group buy (from last year) to replace the dead one? The connectors look different to me but maybe I need to be more creative. (And yes, on the Virago 535 I have, the R/R is buried on the backside of the engine and very difficult to get a good look at the rectifier itself.) Another reason that I ask this question -- the XV535 R/R is allegedly the same as the one listed for that vintage VMAX. Could it be the same as the original R/R for the VR?
  17. Today I removed the old R/R and replaced it with the newer Shindengen Mosfet R/R (www.roadstercycle.com) . The only modification I made is to put it on the left upper side of the fairing, rather than the original location below the left footrest. I removed the old tuner and cassette tape from the left fairing, and will form a lockable storage box from ABS black textured plastic in its place and use the original lockable Yamaha lid and form a piece of ABS plastic to cover the old holes. (Thanks to SaltyDog in AR for the detailed help and description on his modification.) I have attached a couple of photos showing the old/new Regulator Rectifier, and also a picture of the location of the new R/R. The original connector plugs to the stator were pretty nasty, so I cut it off, soldered the wires from the new R/R (yellow wires in photo) to the white stator wires, then put heat shrink tubing on them for good measure. Couple that with an Odyssey PC680MJ gel battery, along with an Argus "Battery Bug" and I am livin' life in "high cotton."
  18. I recently bid farewell to yet another lead/acid battery. This one lasted three years. I took the advice of many posts I've seen in here and purchased an AGM type from Interstate. When I installed it the engineer in me just had to test the voltage with the bike @ 2000 RPM's and I found it was half a volt low, reading 13.5VDC and not much more at higher rev's. It never quite made it all the way to 14V. So yesterday I double checked and cleaned all the various connections at the battery, stator and R/R. I tested the stator voltage and resistance as it shows in the manual all tests were fine on all three wires. Last I did the continuity test on the R/R thats shown in the service manual. So here's my problem (Finally!) On all of the R/R tests where I should have been reading continuity I was actually reading approx 400K ohms and not what I would call continuity, which is zero ohms. I also checked it with my old analog meter and got the same results. Is this 400K ohm reading as bad as I think it is? The new AGM battery seems fine on the few rides I've been on since I put it in. FANTASTIC battery BTW. Did I mention, its a 1984 Venture Royale?
  19. Dav

    repair work

    New 2001 Venture owner here...wondering where the best place to purchase the 4 black plastic/rubber hoses that supply air mixture to engine/carbs,(directly above the jugs). as you can tell, don't know the tech name of 'em. Also, is it crazy hard/difficult to r/r them? or is it that anyone who can take off the seat, tank, and has a couple tools can do??
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