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  1. First off - Thank you all for your knowledge, advice, and tech docs. I've on week 8 of my 1983 Venture project. You can't place a price on the critical this forum has been. Full Disclosure - My previous motorcycle project was a few years ago on a 84 GoldWing that I literally found in a barn next to cattle. It had been there for almost a decade. The PO won it a poker game, but didn't actual ride motorcycles, so he parked in the barn and left it. The only reason he found it is because he built a new barn and was about to tear it down. So a little history of the bike as I come to know it. 83 VXZ1200 - 33K miles; Been sitting for 8+ years. I found it in a trailer park in KY. It was in pretty bad shape. Probably worse than the GoldWing, but all the parts where there. Even got all the plastics. Sun faded, cracked and in pieces, but they were there. So this is the kind of project that is right up my alley. I get it home and start going through it. Engine would crank, brakes were shot, carbs were broken - no just clogged - physically broken (how in the world to do you even break a multiple carb bodies!) and the gas tank looked like someone poured a bag of potting soil in it. I've never seen a gas tank with 2" of solid gunk. The bike did come with brand new tires and a service manual. I'm thankful for both. So far I've: Replaced the carbs with a set I got off eBay that came off a 1983 XVZ1200. I did clean and rebuild them. Set each idle screw to 2 1/4, re-synced with Motion Pro II and Vacuum Gauges. Cleaned the gas tank. That took several hours with pressure washer and at some points I had to take a hammer and long chisel to break that gunk free. All new fuel lines and a clear see-through Advance Auto Universal fuel filter (so I can monitor it). FYI - it actual fit holder by the fuel pump New spark plugs. Autolite 4164 gaped at 35. I didn't replace the wires, but I did clip the wire ends at the coil packs. Strange enough - the previous spark plugs where gaped at 23 (instead of 32). Clean the wires to the CDI module. The coolant was bright green, I flushed it anyway. Just a normal water flush (no chemicals) and I went back with the normal green stuff. Soldiered the CMU, fixed a broken soldier on the hazard switch, install the battery bypass resistor Fix H4 Headlight connector - somebody switched the hi/low beam wires (just why??) Upgraded the fuse box to a new blade style fuse box. I had to do it. The PO had remove the old fuse box and crimped the wires directly to the blades of the fuses! The brakes where already separated and the rear master cylinder just needed a good flush. Rebuild the front master cylinder, installed brand new brake lines, along with new brake pads all the way around. Rebuild both front calipers. Spend close to 40hrs just repairing the plastics. They look okay. Yes, there are some hidden zip ties in certain places. Installed a really neat stereo and speakers that sound amazing. Crystal clear even at 65mph. (I'll save that for another post) I've changed the oil three times so far. I believe consecutive oil changes in close session is the safest way to clean engine. I stay away from all chemical engine cleaners. I also installed one of those USB ports that has the voltage read out. That voltage readout comes in very handy. Repaired the 3 white stator wires. They were actually twisted together, duck taped, and shoved in the gap by the tank. two of the wires had came loose. I soldiered the wires and used two lays of heat shrink tubing. I do believe that the list I may have forgotten a few things. Had some major headaches and long nights along the way but that was due to lack of maintenance and overall lack of knowledge of the bike itself. I also took plenty of pictures along the way. Kinda like a small photo journal. Overall - This bike is a monster!!! I've never ridden anything quite like it. I would have never imagined it would have so much power. It rides like a dream. It has totally exceeded my expectations in every way. My wife likes it way better than my GoldWing and so do I. I'm a true cruiser, I shift between 3-4000 RPM's. Little did I know how quick this bike gets to 3000 RPM. You barely have to twist the throttle. I took it out one night and really got on it pretty hard... totally different bike. It was like riding my Kawasaki Concurs. I swear the front wheel came off the ground at one point. I'd like to meet the individual that has actual went WOT. I tried - I almost hit 80MPH is second. Scared me a little bit. Shouldn't be able to do that with a full bagger LOL! I'm still learning the bike, so I catch myself trying to kick into 6th gear every so often. But it felt safe and it didn't fade or shy away. So yea, I'm totally sold on this bike. I'm truly impressed and I'm glad I own it. It was definitely time and money well spend. Okay - so to the issue I need some help with. This bike starts great, runs like a mad bull, no pops or pings, no back fires, no warning lights, and runs pretty cool for what it's worth. But I have a strange issue when I come to a stop. The idle will drop and the engine will start bogging down. The tach falls to zero and doesn't move. It will eventually bog down low enough and die. Previously it did not do that. It idled at 1000 and didn't budge. I can play with the idle screw and get the tach to bounce between 1000 and zero (even the engine rpm is steady). Now it will idle at 1500 rpm just fine, but that's way too high for my taste. I have no drive-ability or ride-ability issues. From the point you take off to the point you come to a stop, the bike runs flawlessly. It's only when you squeeze the clutch it will drop. But not every time. Some times you will come to a stop and it will idle right on 1000, then a few seconds later the tack will drop to zero and it will start to bog down. As soon as you take off, it's like nothing ever happened. I've ran a can of seafoam through it. I've reset the idle screws, I've check the sync on the carbs, replaced the plugs again, replaced the fuel filter again, adjusted the linkage cables, cleaned all the grounds, charged the battery, drained the tank, and changed the oil (4th time). Went though an entire can of carb cleaner, searching for vacuum leaks and didn't discover any. There still may be a vacuum leak, but I just didn't find it somehow. Checked the carb slides and diaphragms. It has gotten better. I can find a sweet spot on the idle screw when it warm and it will not die. The tach will be still be at zero, but the engine sounds like it is at 1000 rpms. I can't figure this out for the world. I have rode a total of 516 miles since I put it on the road. This issue didn't develop until I ran seafoam through it around the 300 mile point. I took the bike out tonight and rode 60 miles on the highway at 70mph. it rode like a dream. Shifted perfectly, temp gauge was a little above half, voltage stayed between 13.8 and 13.9 (thanks to that little gauge). It was quite and smooth but the issue was still there when I came to a red light. It didn't die, but it did bog down and the tach went straight to zero. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
  2. Just curious how fast the motor should be running @85mph in 5th gear. Just got my bike on the highway for the first time and it turns 4000rpm @ 85 in 5th. That seems a little high to me, but then again, this is the first time I've ridden a Venture at highway speeds.
  3. We are just back from Santee, rode down and spent two hours in Cayce's garage, Got a new yamaha clutch assembly, basket and the works. Have something quite interesting to tell all of you. So let me get that done first. (the clutch is not the problem) As you know I have been playing around with a thicker oil. This has helped, not as hoped for, but has helped, but at the same time Cayce my motorcycle mechanic and old fishing pal, has been busy obtaining a new clutch assembly for me. I have also paid him in kind with a brand new air impact wrench and a set of metric 1/2 inch drive sockets. It only took him about an hour and a half to switch to the new clutch assembly, and this is the interesting thing. Some of you have already stated that even after changing out the clutch assembly your whine really did not go away, it just moved to a different rpm. Moved the sound so to speak, made it more tolerable. So as both of us are always quite curious to find an answer, here it is. With the clutch and main assembly removed, and a plastic bag taped over the opening to stop oil from flying around, we fired Cricket up! Even with the clutch totally removed, there is that characteristic whine sound of the actual motor working. It varies from non existent at idle to where you can hear it as you vary the throttle up to about 2000 rpm. We did not romp on it, but have determined it is not the clutch causing the problem. What is happening is this particular motor has a specific sound, a resonance, a particular harmonic sound if you will, this new clutch assembly has a slightly different size and it moves the harmonics to a lower rpm level. This is why some of you have stated that the whine did not go away it just moved. More on this in a minute. With everything back in place and the new assembly all installed and everything properly torqued, and after getting a lecture on not to be putting any straight 50 weight motor oil in the assembly, we again changed the filter, and put in exactly this time 125 ounce of total volume of 20w50 Mobil One, with 12.5 ounces of this being Lucas Oil additive. This works out to 3.906 quarts. Yamaha recommends 3.91 quarts. We are close, prefer to work with even numbers. Yes this volume with filter will totally close over the sight glass when sitting still. But with the motor running it is perfectly between the proper marks on the sight glass. So we have decided although the manual does not state so, the oil should be observed while the motor is running. (This again is just our observation) So going down to Santee with my original oil mix in the Motor and gear box, it does run somewhat more quiet, especially in the higher range of the gear rpm. Coming back, yep we still have the whine but it has as others have stated, moved. But with the oil and lucas , and the different assembly, it totally is non existent at certain times and gear rpm. Results are like as follows: In the lower gears and lower rpm, honestly there is not one iota of change. At low town speeds, 30 to 45 or 50 mph, the whine is still there. But again let me stress, it is not the clutch, this has been being mis-diagnosed for a long time, why I do not know, just has been is all. The motor and gear drive has a particular resonance that is unique to it, it varies with rpm. But as you increase speed it gets better and better!!. At 60 mph in 4th gear it is gone, all you can hear is the slight sound of the motor and you really have to listen to hear this, you begin to hear the whoosh of the wind and the quiet low rumble of the stock pipes. (I never could hear that at high speed before) as you push it on up to 65 mph and shift into 5th gear and take it on up to 70 mph the sound is completely gone, at 80 it does not return, it is a joy to listen to the motor work at that speed and hear the bike run. However as you shift between 4th and 5th gears and if you do not power it on up to 70 right away, if you dawdle , the whine will come back......until you get above 70 again. What is happening is you are dropping to a lower rpm, and allowing the resonance to return. I hope this explains more thoroughly what is the real cause of the whine, and to those who find it objectionable, a means to run the bike in a manner that will resolve most of it. No at lower rpm, and speeds it does not go away, and honestly I do not think it ever will. This is just a characteristic of the motor. For whatever design reason, and combination of a lot of things, it has this characteristic sound. By using a heavier oil, we improved the original problem by I would say about 10 percent. By moving the rpm range up with the new clutch assembly, it has improved in the low rpm range only slightly , but is dramatic in the high end rpm range of the gears. If you run 60 in 4th and not be running 25 to 30 in 4th, and the bike will do it easy, it has the power, but move the rpm range up, the whine will just fade out at this speed and rpm range. We have not changed the rear end, do not intend to, but some have said this has also helped. This does the exact same thing, causes you to run a little more rpm in each gear to obtain the same speed, therefore keeping you more in the power band. Does this help anyone? I am done playing with it, I was doing this as I was just totally curious and fascinated with this thing. I will continue to run 20w50 as this helps some, no does not cure it, but does quiet the motor some. I do not feel the so called whine will ever totally diss-appear , but if kept in the right rpm range, it can be almost eliminated totally at higher speeds. In fact if I did not have stock exhaust, I would not be able to hear it at all, and another thing. I have noticed some of the resonance is worse at low speeds, like in an alley way, between or next to a big truck. Bottom line , and my honest opinion. All big bikes have some motor noise, all of them(I will agree Honda is the quietest) this one has its own particular sound, I do not find it objectionable myself. I have gotten used to it some I suppose, but coming home, it was not at all bad. It would go completely way at any speed above 60 mph, as long as you did not lug the motor and kept the rpm up. We love the new venture, we are running 5psi in the front shocks, and 25 psi in the back one, she runs straight, strong and true. We will run the wheels off this one and get another in five years. I have ran a lot of big bikes, cruisers like this included and none have the response and comfort all put into one like this one does. Coming home, we could talk to each other, and hear, we do not use the intercom , or even turn the radio on, riding a bike is about getting out, listening to the motor, enjoying the bubble of the pipes as you use the gears to down-shift and slow around the corner. We could not hear like this before either, if this helps illustrate the difference. To us Cricket is 99 percent......nothing is perfect, we like her just fine. Respectfully Kit
  4. 1996 Royal Star : Been playing around with pilot screw tuning options. I have a digital induction rpm meter...rpm bounce around but never over 1200 or under 900 rpm when idol set at 1000, or as close as I can figure by ear. I set it but still not happy. Then I got an IR temp gun and with the heat around the motor I never seemed to be getting an accurate temp as it flucated no matter what I measured on..and I ,measured almost everything on bike. So yesterday I took all the pilot screws out and cleaned them up and cut a little deeper grove for the srewdriver. I put them back in, set and left it at that for the evening. I have a brand new Morgan Carbtune for syncing...could I set my idol fuel air mixture with it? Shouldnt the vacuum change as the rpm rise and fall...just a thought.
  5. I have been playing around with the carb set-up on my VentureMax (1300 engine with Vmax cams and springs). The latest experiment is Vmax needles and .5mm spacers. I have not rode it much with this set-up yet; Needs a little choke for cold starting Idle appears to be lean (surges slightly at idle and pops during deceleration) Pulls smooth and strong from 1500 rpm in second Pulled a little "crisper" from 1500 rpm with stock needles Pulls strong from 3,000 rpm (any gear) Ran it up to 9,000 rpm in second and it wanted to keep going!
  6. Well I had the back wheel off to change out the tire. Noticed the fuel filter hanging out there under the rear fender. Thought to myself, it would be a convenient time to change it out. On my way to the shop to swap tires picked one up at Cdn Tire. Wow what a difference. Fired up the bike and it goes through the hole rpm range now with no stumbling at all. I was thinking it needed diaphrams and such. Been running seafoam and helped a little. Just wanted to pass it on. If your ride is running like SH*t, maybe the $4 fix, not the $100 one needed:) Brad
  7. with crapy ethanol gas after warm up it wants to die at idle 950 rpm with real gas it wants to idle around 1500 to 2000 rpm when at normal operating temps any ideas oh real possible answers only Yammer Dan an Flyinfool :no-no-no: :rotf:
  8. my 86 is being cranky again... Went to start her up and she didn't want to start. Finally started but wasn't running so hot. Noticed the RPM gauge was at dead zero and not even twitching. when I rev it... the RPM gauge takes a second but finally comes up. I took it for a quick spin and even at higher speeds it's bogging with out much power and also when it does bog... the RPM gauge goes back to zero like the bike is off. Then the RPM gauge will come back and it runs normal again. Kinda goes back and fourth from running fine to no RPM's and not running fine. HELP!!!! my baby is sick! hahaha... thanks in advance!
  9. Today when I fired up the bike it started acting funny it idles fine if i rev it the tach and engine will rise to about 2500 rpm just past 2500 the tachometer drops to 0 and it starts to hesitate. when I ride it it does the same thing it gets to 2500 the tach drops and it will still accel but isnt all there "here is where it gets wierd" if you hold throttle and keep accelerating once the engine gets to about 4500 rpm the tach comes back to life and holy sh*t you better be holding on, because its just runs like a champ till get back into that range. Has anyone ever had this issue before. I am almost certain it is an electric issue.
  10. On my 84 Venture I have 1,3,and 4 synced but number 2 will not, It also when warmed up will go from 1000 rpm to 2000 rpm up and down and have noticed a small back fire when running down the road. And at a idle you can hear it miss and then smooth out. I have good fire to number 2 spark plug. I checked the slide when runing and moves the same as the rest and checked the diaphragm and it looks good cant find any holes. Orlin
  11. Okay, I've done some research on this. I've been looking for a vacuum leak, tomorrow I'm going to pull the air box and look at the butterflies, the choke seems to be closing all the way with the lever positioned off. What I'm running into is that recently the idle has started increasing on its own as the engine warms up. It starts out at about 900-1000, and by the time it's warmed up in about 10 minutes, it's run up to about 2000 rpm. If I goose it quickly, there's no hesitation, and it'll come back down to about 1300 rpm, then ease its way back up to 2000. I don't have any tools to adjust the carb sync, but is there anything else I may be able check on my own? Thanks
  12. I have an 83 venture that I still can not get running correctly. Looking for ideas and things to check and how. If I come around corner and accelerate it may “pop” back once or twice and then kick in. Problem seems to gets worse as the bike gets hotter. But is sluggish and “pops” under acceleration then takes off. Notice the problems seem to drop off and the beast has new power at about 3100 RPM. IF you lower the rpms to around 2500 RPM it really loads up. To start it up I seem to have the best luck choking it and then moving the to the right to almost no choke and it will finally kick in. Idle is a little unsteady but not too bad. History 1. Cleaned the carbs a couple of times. Had slider and stuck float this week and there are both fixed. Idle screws are set at 2 turns out, Have also tried 1 ½ turns out. Tried smaller shims and bike run worse so reinstalled original shims in sliders. Rechecked the float levels. 3. Set the valves last year and several were too tight. 4. New plug wires and caps and plugs last year. 6. Have after market TCI using the stock program. about 1 ½ year ago NO MAPP sensor. Basically does the same things with the original TCI in place. 7. Sync;d carbs several times and again last night. Run about 6 inch at 1000RPM . 8. YICS was removed last year. 9. Gas mileage is under 30 MPG. 10. Have spark on all cylinders. 11. Every once in a while running down the road it will stumble but come right back. Thank in advance for the advice
  13. My speedo and rpm gauge lenses are hazy and there is a crack in the rpm gauge. Is there a way to replace the clear plastic lenses without replacing the whole gauge unit?
  14. I put a Dyna 3000 in my bike just after Christmas. As soon as I did the tachometer went ballistic and started reading very high numbers. More than twice the actual rpm. Like 6900 rpm and erratic at 35mph in third. I don't think so. The bike idled rough and there was popping in the exhaust. Overall the bike just ran poorly. My tach is a simple unit with just a one lead pick up that wraps around a spark plug wire. Not much to go wrong. So my guess is the new Dyna ignition module was causing my ignition to misfire and multi fire. I revisited the settings on the Dyna and made sure the switches were set for 7200 rpm and advance curve 3. They were. I double checked the connectors. They were ok. But the problems persisted. So figuring I just got a bad unit I reinstalled the stock ignition module. Instantly cleared up the problems. The bike went back to her normal good running and the tachometer settled down to the correct reading. I called Dynatek and got a return authorization number. I sent the unit back with a note describing the problems and my phone number. Which they requested. After not hearing anything for a couple of weeks the unit showed up on my doorstep. Pretty good service so far. Opening the package their repair slip simply said "returning tested good". What does that mean? They didn't find a problem, didn't look for a problem, or it was ok after repairs. Well we finally got a couple days of decent weather. So I reinstalled the Dyna. I was hopeful because I am looking foreword to raising the rpm limit. But no go. The tach went ballistic again and there was popping in the exhaust. Since I don't want to burn holes in pistons I just took it back off and reinstalled my stock unit again. That answered the question about what they did to it. Nothing. I am sitting here getting ready to call Dynatek again. Any suggestions? Oh yea, I did a short video of the module install including the tach readings. Mike
  15. Got mine today and the instruction sheet says that for the RSTD Note: Do not exceed 6500 RPM on a stock Royal Star with out aftermarket valve springs. Do not Exceed 7500 RPM on a stck Venture with out aftermarket valve springs. So if I set my 08 RSTD at 7250, will it hurt it?
  16. Been having battery issues lately. Battery is due, actually overdue, for replacement however it has been good enough to start the bike twice in a row but not three times without a good run in between. About 4 days ago it would not start after work. Mary came and jumped it for me and I have spent the last few days at her place in town so I would not be stranded outside the city and could get to work. Today I'm off work and I was planning on getting a new battery. Started the bike on its own in the morning as would be normal. It was running well on half choke at 2500 RPM for perhaps 5 minutes when it dropped to about 1200 RPM. Took the choke off and it seemed stable at that RPM but after a few minutes the engine just quit. Mary arrived about that time so we hooked up the jumpers to her vehicle and it turned over really well but would not start. Don't have a freaking clue what is wrong with it. While it was idling it was smooth and was charging well, volt meter read just under the 15 v line. Bike is currently on the street in Victoria.. nowhere to work on it there. Gotta either ride it or tow it home but after that not really sure where to start. Almost anything could be wrong with it. Will get a new battery today. Perhaps the fuel pump quit. Possibly idled long enough to empty the bowl? Didn't overheat. Any thoughtful suggestions other than dynamite would be very helpful.
  17. For those who have MKII what idel RPM setting do you like and why or is there just one recommended RPM idel setting. Also where is the idel setting screw?
  18. 89 VR 27000m I notice myself tending to cruise in 4th, at 55mph, at 3500 rpm. Is that typical? I ask because the bike is new to me and I'm trying to figure out if it is performing as it should. I do 65 in 5th at about the same rpm. When I bought the bike it was missing on one cylinder according to my mechanic. I'm hoping I don't have to pull the carbs - it hadn't been ridden enough for about a year. I'm on my 3rd tank with Seafoam, and I seem to be on all four with an occasional miss though it is hard for me to tell. The pinging in higher gears is gone. Any diagnostic tribal lore appreciated. My brother laughed at me when I told him I was practicing different drum beat patterns so I could recognize the difference between a 4 cylinder that was hitting all four and one missing. Guess it is a bit weird. t
  19. I have an 83 Venture xvz1200. I just cannot get it running correctly. I’ve put around 1000 mile on it this last year. Under heavy throttle with the rev’s under 3000 RPM the bike “burp and belches” until the rev’s get up higher around 3500 RPM. Also, at idle it will tend to “stumble” a little lower several times them die. It starts fine some times and then doesn’t want to fire up. Put on trickle charger and later it seems to fire up fine. Some times when trying to start it up after it refuses to start, I have a major backfire. Sounds like a 3006 shot. Mileage is poor, around 28 MPG. It does not run as smooth as it should, nor have the power it should. Seem like it does smooth out around 75 MPH. History: Bike sat for about 6 years before I bought it. The gas tank I was told had been drained but not the carb’s. Little wd40 and battery charger and new gas and lots of sweat got it running. Changed the oil and the filter and changed the coolant. I have replaced Battery and replaced cables from solenoid to starter and the ground line from battery to block with 4 ga soldered ends. Did not replace the braided cable from Battery to the solenoid. I just had to replace the Voltage regulator /rectifier as I started seeing 17 Volts at the battery. Now I get about 13.8 VAC from the stator leads and 13.6 VDC at battery, running at 3000 RPM. Pulled and cleaned the carbs last year. Sync’d them early this year and went to maintenance day and re-synced them there. Disconnected the YICS by joining the vacuum lines together on the left cylinders and again on the right cylinders. Replaced the fuel filter last year and have run couple cans of Seafoam through the system (½ can per tank of gas). And replaced the plugs twice and replaced the wires and caps early this year. Other items re-soldered the CMS (Twice) and most of the time I don’t have warning signals anymore. “Brake and lights” are the ones I see every once in a while. Have not messed with the TCI but did pull and test the pressure sensor and it checked out. Checked the float levels on the carbs per the “manual” and each had a gas level between the 3/8” and ½” shown in the book below the diaphragm centers. I’m considering pulling the carbs and cleaning them again. Getting real close to taking it into a shop, but hate to give up. Open for suggestions?
  20. So my Drag Specialties tach bit the dust on the last trip.. boo.. Right now, the dial light works.. when you turn the ignition to ON, the dial will calibrate as its supposed to (swing all the way to the right and then reset to 0).. but it won't read the RPM what so ever.. I just pulled the tank and checked my connections and everything is in order but still no go. The tach failed while riding where I noticed it bouncing a bit and then drop to zero.. then a few minutes later bounce up to what would seem to be the proper RPM and then back to zero where it's been ever since. The bike runs fine since then, not noticing any changes etc. So if this is a dead tach, and if I don't want to go with a 2.5 inch Drag Specialties tach again, what other options do I have that will work out of the box for this bike of ours? A smaller dial (2 inches) would suit me fine.. Though a dead tach is not a show stopper for me, I kind of like having one for various reasons.. (no, not OCD or anything.. Any recommendations?
  21. I have a Drag Specialties liquid filled gauge installed by the PO with tap in usual place near the clutch. Pressure is within spec per the yammy manual so I believe it to be normal but as some of you know it's essentially 0psi with a hot motor at under 2k rpm. I have to assume it's reading the other side of the relief valve or something. Any of the experts here know why the readings are so darned low on a warmed up motor?
  22. :confused24:My 83 boggs and looses RPM on the high side. Starts amd runs great below 3000. Over that she boggs out. New wires and fuel fileter and plugs. I hooked a timing light to each plug wire and all are firing. fresh fuel and even some sea foam. I can feel the fuel pump pulseing. I can only get one carb drain screw out, the rest are all rounded off.(dam philips heads) Any Idea's would me much appreciated frank
  23. the verdict is in on carb sync rpm's... i usually set mine at fast rpm 2000-2500 and it always ran great and got good mpg's 39-43. so after reading some threads about doing it at 1000 rpm i tried that and well my mpg's kinda sucked, 35-38 was all i could get. so i went back to hi rpm sync and went back to 42mpg on the first tank. i figure 90% of my riding is hiway at 65 mph so why not set carbs to that.. i will admit the throttle response was a bit better at 1000 rpm but top end and fuel mileage suffered. anywho for what its worth those are my results. all thats on 89 octane.
  24. I have posted on this in the past, but thought I would update the info with a fresh post since I just revisited the settings on QuickSilver. Factory settings on the mixture screws seem to always be extra lean - somewhere around 2.5 - 3 turns out, if I remember correctly (I always check this and write it down for the carbs I work on, but then I give the notes to the owner and do not keep them myself for reference!). This lean setting is not too surprising with the current state of emission regulations, but I do find it strange that Yamaha's published spec for CO on this engine is MUCH richer than they come set from the factory. I have a tendancy to believe that a manufacturer should actually set up the machine to match their own published specs, but Yamahaha both sets their floats WAY higher than the spec and the mixture leaner than the spec. Although I do have an exhaust gas CO analyzer, I rarely use it because it is tedious and a PIA. I have found that I can get excellent results by simply tuning each carb for max RPM. I have also tried the Colortune, but I find that tool a sad joke. The published CO% for this engine is: #1 & #3 = 2.5-3.5% #2 & #4 = 3.5-4.5% For reference, here are the settings I have found on my RSV - Using the max RPM method, I still end up with settings that are slightly too lean, especially for the front cylinders. Typically this method leaves the screw about 3.5 turns out, and that is what I would recommend as a starting point for someone looking for that info. Using the CO analyzer, I get about 3% with the screws set somewhere between 4 and 5 turns out, and pushing the front cylinders all the way up to 4% CO requires a full SIX turns out! Six turns out seems like a huge amount, but I have used the analyzer on this bike twice (two years apart), and the settings I ended up with are the same today as they were back at the beginning of 2009, so I am getting consistent results. Although the bike has been running perfectly for the past two years at the midpoint CO settings, I think I'll probably reset the front two jugs for the minimum of 3.5%, just so I'll feel better about the screws not being so danged far out! But for the majority of carb setup and tuning for 2nd gens, I think I will continue just setting for max RPM + 1/4 turn on each carb. Even without a tach on every bike, I find it pretty simple to do it by ear. I used to actually leave the screws a tad more IN from max, but in light of the settings required to reach the published CO numbers, I've decided to set them 1/4 turn richer. If you feel the need to adjust your carbs for any reason, here is the process I think will produce good results for just about anyone. First, sync the carbs and make sure the idle RPM is set properly. If you do not have a tach, just realize the idle spec of 1,000 RPM is probably a little faster than the idle sound you prefer. Just leave the sync gauges connected while you do the mixture screws, since you will want to double check the sync setting when you get done. I'd start with each mixture screw about 3.5 out, then the first thing is to start turning it IN to verify you get a drop in RPM (which proves your idle jets and circuit in that carb are actually working) - no point in trying to tune a carb that already has problems with plugged idle jets, right? Now slowly turn the screw out to the point where the RPM no longer increase. Select the final setting by turning the screw back in to just where you first detect any drop in RPM, then back out 1/4 turn. Repeat that with each carb, then verify the sync is good, and you are done. If you have problems getting a good setting on any specific cylinder, I'd start looking for other carb issues there, such as plugged jets, bad o-rings on the mixture screw, diaphragm holes, etc. Goose
  25. Good write here makes it nice and easy. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=258 They were out a bit. I wonder if I'll be able to tell the difference? How does one know the rpm at idle?
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