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  1. I posted before about installing the 2" Equus gauges on my Royal Star. Well I found a 2" tachometer that matches the other gauges very closely. I got it at Princess Auto on sale for $20, regular price is $35, so the price is right. It is a car tach but works great if you build the adapter harness shown on this site. There are about six different backlight colours that can be changed by pressing a button. The adapter harness is very easy and cheap to make and allows the use of car tachometers which are much cheaper than most motorcycle tachs, at least in Canada. Ride safe Doug
  2. My 1985 Venture Royale with 73,000 k's starting acting sluggish ..Starts up fine and idles fine for a bit then blogs down. Under load it feels sluggish and you can smell unburned gas. At same time the Tach gauge starting working intermitting . Plan on changing plugs as a first step(has new Battery). It was suggested even one bad plug can cause other electronic issues. Is this so?
  3. Now sorry too post this long issue here. It's just about 3am here and I haven't had the greatest of days. It is Tuesday the 21 of June. Have received a lot of help from a different site called venturers dot org. You can search for Tach power there and a couple Pages in you will start to see my posts. Nickname iSpeedyG. If you do a YouTube search for Speedy G with Venture1 or Venture 1 you might come across about 9 videos of my hell. The final 2 "the day she ran" and the link I am posting below. Seems I have developed a new situation that maybe someone can help with. It's not normal to ask but I'm dead, exhausted, pissed and really in a need of something positive to happen if you think you can help please don't hesitate to reply or even call. Life has been a little trying lately bb when you get to my page you should be able to see venture video of my problems. I'm a tad bit overwhelmed at the moment.
  4. Last evening I fired up the bike - generally takes a bit to warm up and smooth out. I twist the throttle and it acts like it isn't getting fuel and the tach goes to 0. Let off and it goes back up again. Darn bike acts like it runs on 2 cylinders. Turned around to bring it home. then it starts running just fine - open it up and it takes off like Boomer leaving his woman. Any ideas about what happened?
  5. Riding at 75 mph my tach usually reads about 3800 rpm. Now at the same speed it shows 4100 rpms. First I guess I should ask what it should read at 75? And am I looking at clutch issue?
  6. So I successfully installed an el cheapo tach from Harbor Freight. Basically I used the cheapie as an excuse to create a wire harness for a nicer tach in the future. I used the yellow wire from the right rear coil as suggested by coop for the trigger and ran the other wires into a length of 3/8" split flex tubing, under the tank, up to the triple trees where I'll be installing a 4-5 pin plug. For now it's hard wired, but you get the idea. The tach works "perfectly", smooth sweep and very responsive. The yellow wire was an excellent choice, thanks coop! My question is, does my bike idle at 400RPM? I thought I read somewhere they idle around 1000ish. Or no? The rev limiter is set around 6000RPM but on this tach, to me, 2000RPM is painful...I almost never push that hard before a shift.. I think it reads low...confirm? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4MMoKy6I3Y
  7. Looking to get a tach for my bike. Anyone have any recommendations for a good, yet reasonably priced one? Also, what is the popular mounting location?
  8. Hey guys, I'm looking for a tach for my Midnight and not sure what to get.. I got up all confused over the single / dual ignition thing etc.. What's out there that is bone dead simple to install etc? I had a small little digital tach thing that I couldn't make work as it required me to splice into too many odd wires to make it work (needed converter signal cables etc) Suggestions?
  9. I am wanting to get a tach for all the times you need one to tune on your bike. I have one built into a multimeter that has RPM and a lead you clip on a plug wire. Problem is, the damn numbers are all over the place. It reads RPMs but one moment you think you are set at 1050 then you are at 850, 975,1300,1100, then it bounces to 800....I mean I am totally tuning and syncing by ear, cause who knows...drives me crazy! So I am in search of a tach like the one in my service manual...I have a 96 Royal Star XVZ13A. So please tell me...do all digital tachs bounce numbers around or is it just the format of the multimeter. I have read that people fuss about buying a digital and it cant notice when you adjust something or is to slow in putting a read out. All thoughts and info on a good one would be great! Thanks all!
  10. The doesn't work. If the bike runs a while the tach moves to about 1000 RPMs, but doesn't respond with engine speed changes. I have removed the gauge and it moves freely. Any thoughts.
  11. Took a really nice trip to "The Pennsylvania Wilds" last weekend with the wife in the cage. My brother and I have a cabin near Sinnemahoning and the wife wanted to go up to see the leaves and do some local antique shopping. This was my first time stopping for a look see in Bellefonte. What a great town. We talked about retiring up in that area someday. Anyhoo, I noticed that I've two bulbs burnt out in the dash. One for half of the tach and another for the gas gauge on my 08 Taurus. I couldn't see if I need to go at this from under the dash or if I'll need to remove the part of the dash above the gauges. Anybody been into one of these before?
  12. Today when I fired up the bike it started acting funny it idles fine if i rev it the tach and engine will rise to about 2500 rpm just past 2500 the tachometer drops to 0 and it starts to hesitate. when I ride it it does the same thing it gets to 2500 the tach drops and it will still accel but isnt all there "here is where it gets wierd" if you hold throttle and keep accelerating once the engine gets to about 4500 rpm the tach comes back to life and holy sh*t you better be holding on, because its just runs like a champ till get back into that range. Has anyone ever had this issue before. I am almost certain it is an electric issue.
  13. Well, I'm officially a Venture owner. Picked up my '06 with 8900 miles Saturday morning and rode it the 4 hours home. Never been on any sort of touring bike before, I was extremely impressed, almost felt spoiled I'm familiar with the engine (in Vmax tune) and was happy with the torque and horsepower. Never used a heel-toe shifter before...so felt like a complete rookie and mis-shifted several times I couldn't believe it doesn't come with a tach....that confused me for the whole ride. I seriously pushed every button I could find...no tach. But did find the 12 volt aux and the clock Wasn't happy with the high frequency whine at certain RPM's. The Vmax has it too....but the fairing an this funnels the noise right to the rider. I know it's a normal noise...guessing it comes from the valve train? Anyone have fixes for this...or should I be in a lower gear? I'm hoping some synthetic oil might quiet it down. I definitely need the driver backrest...at 6'2", I find I slouch too much. Lastly, I purchased a cheap MP3 player and plugged it into the aux (once I got home) and it's not working? The stereo and CB work...didn't try the cassette though....any simple checks? I read through installing the splitter behind the fairing, straight into the amp...and may do that. Didn't play much with the headset and the CB....couldn't do it all in 1 day Overall (so far) was exactly what I was looking for....now just want to get out and ride
  14. On Sunday Doug(DBeck) stopped over to swap tci's in our bikes to see if that was his problem. It was, with mine in his bike it ran great. The problem is about a month ago my tach started to twitch and drop to 0 when below 1200 rpm. Since the bike still runs great I thought it was the tach, but with my tci while on his bike it did the same thing. So the question is will new diodes save it or is it a lost cause at this point? Also how long will it last before total failure? If the new diodes will fix it is there a member who works on them. Any and all input would be appreciated. Thanks, Ray
  15. Guest

    Gauges/Tach color?

    I have a set white face gauges that I got from ponch, and I want to add a tach to the brake res. So my question is, black face or the white face tach? I been tossing this around for a few weeks...
  16. I picked up a digital multi-meter from Canadian Tire ($150) that came with an inductive pickup thinking for that price I'd have no problem doing an rpm reading for tune-ups. What I found was that the reading at idle would jump all over the place in the range of 300rpm to 1500rpm. Repositioning the pick-up didn't fix it and I couldn't get a steady reading. Need a recommendation on a tach/multi-meter that will give a steady reading and is usable for setting the idle on the RSV. I've seen the Harbor Freight on online ($30 - http://www.harborfreight.com/lcd-automotive-multimeter-with-tachometer-kit-95670.html ) but is it any good / usable? What is recommended or used by members ? I like the look of the Baron's 1" tach that mounts on the resevoir but don't want to spend that much money and don't really need a permanent unit. Just want a simple removable (multi-meter or dedicated to just rpm) tach for the times I synch my carbs.
  17. I'm wondering what make/model digital tachometer is being used out there for diagnostics. I have an 84 VR MK1 and need to make some adjustments that require a digital tach. Before I make a purchase I would like to see what you guys are using and whether you like it or not. So; whatcha using?
  18. I put a Dyna 3000 in my bike just after Christmas. As soon as I did the tachometer went ballistic and started reading very high numbers. More than twice the actual rpm. Like 6900 rpm and erratic at 35mph in third. I don't think so. The bike idled rough and there was popping in the exhaust. Overall the bike just ran poorly. My tach is a simple unit with just a one lead pick up that wraps around a spark plug wire. Not much to go wrong. So my guess is the new Dyna ignition module was causing my ignition to misfire and multi fire. I revisited the settings on the Dyna and made sure the switches were set for 7200 rpm and advance curve 3. They were. I double checked the connectors. They were ok. But the problems persisted. So figuring I just got a bad unit I reinstalled the stock ignition module. Instantly cleared up the problems. The bike went back to her normal good running and the tachometer settled down to the correct reading. I called Dynatek and got a return authorization number. I sent the unit back with a note describing the problems and my phone number. Which they requested. After not hearing anything for a couple of weeks the unit showed up on my doorstep. Pretty good service so far. Opening the package their repair slip simply said "returning tested good". What does that mean? They didn't find a problem, didn't look for a problem, or it was ok after repairs. Well we finally got a couple days of decent weather. So I reinstalled the Dyna. I was hopeful because I am looking foreword to raising the rpm limit. But no go. The tach went ballistic again and there was popping in the exhaust. Since I don't want to burn holes in pistons I just took it back off and reinstalled my stock unit again. That answered the question about what they did to it. Nothing. I am sitting here getting ready to call Dynatek again. Any suggestions? Oh yea, I did a short video of the module install including the tach readings. Mike
  19. Does anyone have some pictures of the Barons tachometer mounted on the master cylinder cover of their bike? I'm going to be purchasing a tach and wanted to see what this set up looks like prior to purchasing. Also, what are you thoughts on it? Does it do everything you want it to? Does it look nice? Was the installation easy? Thoughts please? Thanks, Les
  20. After a series of ignition issues I have most of them resolved. New plugs, plug caps and wires have made all the difference. I also removed and split the TCI. The diodes are in perfect condition so I left them alone. I re-flowed the solder in the pin headers and put it back together. The bike fires up, runs just fine right up to the red line. Before I did this I was having an issue of cylinder #2 not firing, and the tach behaving a little strangely. Cylinder #2 would quit, and the tach with it (sometimes). Now it's all back together the four cylinders are all playing nicely but the tachometer is dead. This may simply be a dead tachometer. What I was wondering is whether or not there is any way of testing the ouput on the grey wire from the TCI (tach signal). Is there anywhere else I should be looking too? Thanks
  21. OK, so my '83 has a new noise, I thought maybe the speedo but I pulled the cable and lubed it and it still does it. The "whine" starts pretty much when I start rolling, builds up to a constant level and stays there. It is louder when the bike is cold but still somewhat noticeable when I've ridden 30 miles. Any ideas? I do have an issue with the tach not winding up as it should. It does go up or down but takes about 5 miles to show cruising RPM and will not respond rapidly, even going down, but the thing is electric, so I don't know that would be it??
  22. Looking around for a new tach and that old question pops up again.. Single Fire Ignition or Dual Fire Ignition on our bikes? I promise to write it down this time.. I did a search and couldn't find it in previous posts.. (a lot of posts about tachs) Thanks in advance.
  23. I have a problem somewhere in the ignition system of my 1983 Venture (not Royale) XVZ12TK. The bike starts and runs, but intermittently the engine stops firing. If this happens on the road at speed, it is only for a second or less, and the bike re-fires and runs. As this happens the tachometer swings way up, although this is a false indication, obviously, as the bike is in gear and the engine can't possibly be turning that fast. If I'm doing 60mph, the tach can go from 3500 when running to 8000 when the engine is not firing. If the problem happens when I'm stopped, it's easy to re-start. I think the problem is with the ignitor, a part between the magnetic distributor and the coils. I think this, because a lead comes from the ignitor output that goes to one of the coils, and this lead also goes to the tach. I took the bike down far enough to get to the ignitor and saw slight corrosion on some of the connector pins. Cleaned them off hoping this would fix the problem, but it didn't. New ignitors are 1200 bucks! and the bike is worth only half that at most. I found one that looks like mine on eBay for $90, but it's for a 1984. Don't know if there is a difference. Another in the same place is for a 1983, but it doesn't look the same. Anyone with insight, knowledge or even a stray though is encouraged to respond.
  24. So my Drag Specialties tach bit the dust on the last trip.. boo.. Right now, the dial light works.. when you turn the ignition to ON, the dial will calibrate as its supposed to (swing all the way to the right and then reset to 0).. but it won't read the RPM what so ever.. I just pulled the tank and checked my connections and everything is in order but still no go. The tach failed while riding where I noticed it bouncing a bit and then drop to zero.. then a few minutes later bounce up to what would seem to be the proper RPM and then back to zero where it's been ever since. The bike runs fine since then, not noticing any changes etc. So if this is a dead tach, and if I don't want to go with a 2.5 inch Drag Specialties tach again, what other options do I have that will work out of the box for this bike of ours? A smaller dial (2 inches) would suit me fine.. Though a dead tach is not a show stopper for me, I kind of like having one for various reasons.. (no, not OCD or anything.. Any recommendations?
  25. It's been a while since I have had a tach on the bike so to me the #'s are a bit high, but could be wrong. 45 mph, 5 gear, 2k 50 mph, 5 gear, 21k (small gap between the 2k bar and the needle) Thanks
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