EnJay

Thanks Gary and Mike. I just ordered myself a KTM. I do appreciate your help.

I'm wondering what make/model digital tachometer is being used out there for diagnostics. I have an 84 VR MK1 and need to make some adjustments that require a digital tach. Before I make a purchase I would like to see what you guys are using and whether you like it or not. So; whatcha using?

I was just about to pull the trigger on ordering an IgniTech TCI when I saw this thread. I’ve been having problems with intermittent spark on cylinders 3 & 4 at low rpm to the point where she will only idle with the choke on. I never had spark problems before so I just recently pulled out my TCI and did all the resistance testing and connection cleaning. So far all the tests seem to be pointing at a bad TCI. When I was cleaning the connections, I couldn’t help noticing how easy the male ends of the quick connect was to clean, but there’s really no good way (that I can think of) to thoroughly clean or even tighten the female side. I have to believe after 28 years of engine heat and vibration, those connectors in there have to of loosened up a bit. I was also considering hard soldering all the quick connects. I replaced all the diodes and the transistors on my TCI, put it all back together and still have the same intermittent spark problem. So here’s my idea. I noticed the male tangs on the TCI are almost an exact fit for a female disconnect (a crimp-on type wire terminal). I happened to have a box of fully insulated female disconnects so I decided to try them on for size, they fit perfect, nice and tight. See the attached picture. I’m thinking of cutting the two Yamaha quick disconnects off, soldering on about a 6” pigtail on each wire, insulating the solder connections with heat shrink, crimping on the fully insulated female disconnects, and connecting each one to the TCI individually. I would also want to do something similar to the quick connect that handles the pickup coils. As I said before, I was just “thinking” about doing it. But after reading this thread, I may actually go for it.

Found mine in the mailbox yesterday after work. Thanks Dano, excellent job.

This is a good thread, I'm getting some excellent ideas from you guys. I keep a pair of those mechanics gloves that are heat resistant (got mine at Sears but I seen em cheaper on-line). Saved my hands a couple of times.

My suggestion, go here http://www.majorgeeks.com/ Look on the right hand side for "Spyware removal" They have a step-by-step guide and it's worked every time for me. Good Luck,

I recently bid farewell to yet another lead/acid battery. This one lasted three years. I took the advice of many posts I've seen in here and purchased an AGM type from Interstate. When I installed it the engineer in me just had to test the voltage with the bike @ 2000 RPM's and I found it was half a volt low, reading 13.5VDC and not much more at higher rev's. It never quite made it all the way to 14V. So yesterday I double checked and cleaned all the various connections at the battery, stator and R/R. I tested the stator voltage and resistance as it shows in the manual all tests were fine on all three wires. Last I did the continuity test on the R/R thats shown in the service manual. So here's my problem (Finally!) On all of the R/R tests where I should have been reading continuity I was actually reading approx 400K ohms and not what I would call continuity, which is zero ohms. I also checked it with my old analog meter and got the same results. Is this 400K ohm reading as bad as I think it is? The new AGM battery seems fine on the few rides I've been on since I put it in. FANTASTIC battery BTW. Did I mention, its a 1984 Venture Royale?

I'll take one too.