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Showing results for tags 'continuity'.
Found 4 results
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Hi all, I'm a bit stumped. :confused24: I recently upgraded my '86 to an '89 and am working through the bike making sure all is alright. The bike was missing the tip of the antenna so I'm trying to "fit" a new tip. I cut an antenna about 20" thinking I can step it down until I get the SWR correct. Hooking up the SWR I found that the reading is pegged past infinity. I started troubleshooting but have not found any obvious issues. I'm now stumped as to what to check next??? Items done: 1) SWR : it is pegged off the scale on ch1, ch40 and ch19 :confused: 2) Antenna mount has continuity to the negative on the battery. 3) The antenna when removed form the mount it has continuity from base to tip 4) the cable has continuity for the center conductor to the antenna mount post 5) the cable shield has continuity to the antenna mount body 6) there is no continuity between the center wire and the shield 7) tested with the matching box both connected and bypassed After this effort I was thinking on buying the stuff for the Marshal Mod but I'd like tofigure out if the CB is good or not prior to sinking the $$ into a new antenna setup. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike
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I'm helping a friend with his 83 venture, not charging, at all. At the 3 white wires from the stator, I am getting between 9-11 volts on all white wires, however, when I measure from any white wire from the stator to grd, I am getting continuity. As I understand, there should be no continuity from the stator wires to grd. Also, I have tested the diodes in the rectifier, with a DVOM on the diode test position, and I have continuity in both directions, on all diodes except 2. Again, as I understand, there should only be continuity in one direction of a diode, so that fails the r/r as well. My question is, am I right in these conclusions, or am I missing something. Also, I think this is an aftermarket r/r. It has the 3 white wires, 2 black wires and 2 red wires. Also, there is no brown wire, which I read in previous posts, this is a voltage sense wire for the factory original r/r, not the aftermarkets. All comments will be appreciated, thanks. -
I recently bid farewell to yet another lead/acid battery. This one lasted three years. I took the advice of many posts I've seen in here and purchased an AGM type from Interstate. When I installed it the engineer in me just had to test the voltage with the bike @ 2000 RPM's and I found it was half a volt low, reading 13.5VDC and not much more at higher rev's. It never quite made it all the way to 14V. So yesterday I double checked and cleaned all the various connections at the battery, stator and R/R. I tested the stator voltage and resistance as it shows in the manual all tests were fine on all three wires. Last I did the continuity test on the R/R thats shown in the service manual. So here's my problem (Finally!) On all of the R/R tests where I should have been reading continuity I was actually reading approx 400K ohms and not what I would call continuity, which is zero ohms. I also checked it with my old analog meter and got the same results. Is this 400K ohm reading as bad as I think it is? The new AGM battery seems fine on the few rides I've been on since I put it in. FANTASTIC battery BTW. Did I mention, its a 1984 Venture Royale? -
FAULTY IGNITION SWITCH Temporary Repair A few weeks back I stopped for gas, and when I turned the key on there was no electrical power, except for the radio. There was no lights on the dash, no headlights, or any other power, except for the radio. After checking all the fuses, which were okay, it was suggested the ignition switch could be the problem. To get to the ignition switch wires you will have to remove the seat and the top cover by the key (two Allen head bolts), and then remove the Fuel tank, by first removing the breather tube on the top of the tank, the electrical connection and the fuel line (under the tank). There are two Allen head bolts at the front on each side of the tank, and one bolt near the seat, before you can remove the Fuel tank. After removing the fuel tank there are two plastic covers on each side of the switch, which are held on by a small Phillips head screw and a plastic plug. http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image001.jpg Referring to the manual, Section 8 page 2 stated that switches could be tested for continuity. The manual states, on the main switch there should be continuity between the brown/blue wire and the red, and between the blue/yellow and blue/black wires, when the switch is turned on. I used a multi meter and started checking the wires for continuity. This should be done on the backside of the plug, to prevent damage to the plug connections. I found that I had continuity between the Blue/Yellow Wire and the Blue/Black Wires, however I did not have continuity on the Brown/Blue Wire and the Red wires. I used a 10-gauge wire and inserted it on the backside of the plug between the Brown/Blue Wire and the Red wires and then I had power on the dash and fuel pump started clicking. Therefore, I spliced the Red wire and the Brown/blue wires and connected a 10-gauge wire to the spliced ignition switch wires. I ran this new 10-gauge wire to the handlebars and connected these to a 50-amp single pole toggle switch, which I taped to the handlebars. Please note the 50-amp switch is most likely much larger than required. http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image003.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image005.jpg New Switch http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image007.jpg Wires (on new switch) http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image009.jpg When there is no continuity between the Brown/Blue wire and the red wire there will be no power, except for the radio. These wires close the circuit to the main fuse, battery, starter relay, starter motor, and the Start Switches (including the clutch, neutral, side stand, and stop switches).
