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dug050

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  • Name
    Doug Crawford

location

  • Location
    Oshawa, Canada

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  • City
    Oshawa

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  • Home Country
    Canada

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  • Interests
    R/C planes and boats, model engineering, golf
  • Bike Year and Model
    1996 Royal Star
  1. dug050
    Turn them counter-clockwise to richen but first turn them in until they seat and record the number of turns so you know the original settings. Each carb could be different. Turn them back to their original setting and then open them about a 1/4 turn at a time until you get the results you are looking for.
  2. dug050
    Hi John I am at a bit of a disadvantage since I don't have the bike anymore to go out and check it but I will try to recall what I did. As you turn screw 1 you should see the levels in column 1 and 2 come closer together or farther apart depending on what direction you turn it. Once you have them equal move to screw A and do the same thing to equalize the levels in columns 3 and 4. You now have carb 1 sync'd to carb 2 and carb 3 sync'd to carb 4. Now as you adjust screw B you should see both columns 1 and 2 move together and columns 3 and 4 move together to sync the two banks. If you had them all sync'd at one time and turned off the bike and found that they were out of sync when you restarted it I would guess that you have some binding or excessive wear in your linkage that results in the throttle plates not returning to the same position every after you blip the throttle. When you are syncing carbs you are not leaning or enrichening mixtures in the same way as adjusting a mixture screw, you are making slight adjustments to the position of the throttle plates so they are all drawing fuel the same. If you can get 1 sync'd to 2 and 3 sync'd to 4 but can't get the two banks equalized my guess would be a linkage issue, if you can't get anything to stay in sync you may have to systematically look for vacuum leaks from loose clamps, cracked intake boots, holes in diaphrams..etc. You didn't mention how many kilometres on your bike, has it had a valve check done? I don't know if this will help you but keep posting on your progress and others will also help resolve your problem
  3. dug050
    Something I forgot to mention, I don't know exactly what the calibration marks on your Motiom Pro represent but it appears from your photo that the sync between #1 and#2 and between #3 and#4 don't look too bad and may be within spec. The sync between #2 and #4 which is adjusted by screw B may be the issue. If I remember correctly when you turn that screw columns 1 and 2 should come down and columns 3 and 4 should rise up until all four match. If this isn't happening check the linkages for binding. Doug
  4. dug050
    Hi John and welcome to the forum. I had the identical bike as yours but sold it a week ago. They are a great bike so don't get discouraged. The Royal Stars are different from both the first and second generation RSV. They are similar in appearance but the carb setup is different. The page you show is correct for your bike, the screw on the left side under the choke lever syncs carb #1 to #2 and is adjusted first, screw A syncs carb #4 to #3 and is adjusted second, screw B syncs carb #2 to #4 and is adjusted last. I had a set of mercury tubes that I believe are similar to the Motion Pro but use mercury instead of the glycol. Things I might suggest are : 1. be sure the hoses fit tightly on the vacuum port nipples 2. be sure to adjust the screws in the correct order 3. turn the screws in small increments, it only usually takes small adjustments 4. rev the engine between adjustments to make sure there is no binding in the linkage 5. check the idle speed after each adjustment, as you sync the carbs the engine may change rpm's I never had any problems when following this procedure. Synchronizing will only be entirely successful if your engine timing and valves are within spec and the carbs are clean with no restictions. If you have no luck following the procedure in the manual it may be time for a valve check and adjustment and check to be sure there are no other vacuum leaks. There are good articles on this site on doing this. The pilot screws also have an impact on synchronizing since you are doing the adjustments at idle speed. Some people do the sync at engine speeds closer to highway operating rpm's, you could try this. One thing I would stress is that you record all current settings before you make changes so you can at least get it back to where it was before you started if it gets worse. A good dose of Seafoam will help clean your carbs if they are not too bad. Synchronizing should be the last operation after checking all the other things. Good luck, there is a wealth of information on this site and very knowledgeable owners that will assist. Doug
  5. dug050
    Try removing the sparkplug and pull the saw over slowly, does it feel smooth or catchy? If the saw was run with no oil in the gas you often get a transfer of aluminum off the piston onto the cylinder walls and the rings will not seal the cylinder. You stated that the saw was seized when you got it so this may be why. If the piston seems to travel smoothly then as Brian stated the fuel may be getting to the carb but not into the combustion chamber. Try putting about a spoonful of gas directly into the sparkplug hole and replacing the plug. Pull the saw over several times and see if it fires, may even run for a few seconds. If it fires this way then the problem is fuel not getting to the sparkplug, this could be rotted fuel line, bad carb diaphram, stuck fuel inlet needle, poorly seating reed valves, leaking crankshaft seals or damaged rings. If it doesn't fire when you put fuel directly into the cylinder it is usually an igniton problem. You said it has spark so again as Brian stated it could be a timing issue .The only thing controlling timing is the position of the flywheel on the crankshaft which is set by the keyway. I haven't seen any keyways sheared on a chainsaw, usually happens on lawnmowers when the blade hits something solid and stops immediately but the momentum of flywheel keeps it moving and it shears the key. I'm not saying it couldn't happen, just never seen one. As a last resort you will have to look at the piston, rings and cylinder bore for internal damage. Unfortuneatly a chainsaw doesn't have a cylinder head so it requires a complete teardown to do this. If there is damage to these parts I have usually found that unless you like tinkering and can find good used parts, the costs to repair an old saw like this are too high to make it worth while. Good luck Doug
  6. dug050
    I also own a 96 Royal Star and have had the same problem with #3 cylinder since I purchased the bike 3 years ago. I will list what I have done and my observations and maybe we can track down the cause. The popping is only on cold start up and is worse with the choke on. In the summer when no choke is needed there is little or no popping. As soon as the choke can be pushed right in the popping stops and there is nothing the rest of the day. On my bike this cylinder is slower to warm up than the others, carefully touch the header pipes with your finger and see if this pipe is warm when the popping is present. The pipes get very hot so use care!!! So far I have cleaned the spark plug caps, done the coil swap (no change), new plugs, replaced the vacuum caps on the sync ports, checked vacuum hoses for leaks, removed and cleaned the carbs, checked float levels, checked and adjusted the valves, synced the carbs and played with different pilot screw settings. So far nothing has eliminated this problem. I have not checked the carb diaphrams since it is an idle issue and I didn't think they would cause this problem. As Goose said, it could be an ignitor issue but the only way to be sure is to change it, which will probably be my next step. The bike runs fine other than this cold start issue so I haven't worried too much about it during the riding season. All the plugs are burning with a nice tan colour so whatever is causing it appears to be only idle related. Highway speed riding seems fine but I know these engines run well on 3 cylinders and I don't have another bike to compare it to. I will probably do some more tinkering over the winter, maybe pull the carbs and recheck the float heights and idle circuits. I am leaning toward a carb issue since it seems to be affected by temperature, use of choke and idle RPMs. Keep us informed on your progress, there is no guarantee that our problem is caused by the same thing but maybe with all the knowledge on this site we can find the answer. Good luck Doug
  7. dug050
    I also own a 96 Royal Star. The first thing to check is that there is clearance between the shift lever and the washer when the screw is tightened. If there is no clearance the friction between the shift lever and the washer will loosen the screw. If there is clearance you can try some blue locktite on the screw. You mentioned that the hole in the shift lever is worn slightly oval which is from lack of lubrication by the previous owner. It takes very little wear to create excessive slop in the linkage which results in poor shifting and difficulty finding neutral. I drilled the hole in my shift lever larger and made a bushing to provide a good fit on the post. Made a world of difference and now have very positive shifts and easy to find neutral. You could also replace the shift lever or have a machine shop install a bushing if you don't have the tools to do it yourself. Hope this helps Doug
  8. dug050
    Hey Gunk Must have had mixed emotions about leaving the RS behind after all the work you did on it but sounds like it went to a good home. I know you and that bike go back a long way and I'm sure there are many stories you could tell. I looked at that bike when it was for sale and if it had looked as good as it did when you finished your restoration it wouldn't have been there for you to buy. It would be living in my garage. I know you and Beth will enjoy the boat and hope your retirement plans happen soon. Don't wait too long, we aren't getting any younger. Enjoy the rest of your trip Doug
  9. dug050
    Since the problem moved from the left cylinder to the right when you switched coils you now have narrowed it down to a problem with that coil. It could be a bad coil, excessive resistence in the plug cap or a bad ignitor. To check the resistence in the plug cap you need a multimeter that can measure resistence in Ohms. Unscrew the cap from the plug wire and place one test lead on the brass screw in the cap where the plug wire came out of and the other lead on the fitting that pushes onto the sparkplug. You should have about 10 ohms resistence. If it is much more than 11 ohms reach up inside the cap with a slotted screwdriver and unscrew the fitting that pushes onto the sparkplug. Be careful not to loose any parts, you should have a small washer, a spring and a resistor. The problem is that corrosion builds up on the washer and spring and increases the resistence resulting in a weak spark. Clean everything up and reassemble. When you screw the cap back onto the sparkplug lead it is a good idea to cut about 1/4" off the lead to make a good connection. If this doesn't solve the problem then I would change the coil and if you still have a problem the ignitor will have to be replaced.
  10. dug050
    You stated that when you switched the wires neither cylinder got hot, a silly question but did you also switch the spark plug wires? If not you are messing up the firing order and were probably running on 2 cylinders. As Goose said, you are swapping the coils firing these two cylinders without the trouble of physically moving them to see if the problem moves. I may be stating the obvious but just to be sure.... ask me how I know Doug
  11. dug050
    Obviously great minds think alike.
  12. dug050
    Hey Goose I agree with what you have listed, that was the way I took the old one out but I didn't want to spring the $25 that the dealer wanted for the OEM and the alternative car filters that a lot of the guys listed were not available in my area. The closest one was slightly too large to fit between the arms on the mounting bracket when the rubber cover was installed so I did the relocation. Now I can change the filter by just removing the seat and the filter size is not so critical. If I could have got the right size filter I would have just put it back the way you said. Thanks for the input. Doug
  13. dug050
    Just relocated the fuel filter on my 96 Royal Star yesterday after reading several posts on this site. It was an easy job and well worth while for future maintenance. The hardest part of the job was the mounting bolt and nut for the Roll-Over Valve that so many described as a PITA. To resolve this I put the bolt through the hole from the back of the metal bracket and put the nut on the front side with some loc-tite and now have a threaded stud that will stay in place. Just put the plastic holder on the bolt and install a lock washer and another nut. This doesn't have any earth-shattering significance but may be a tip that some might find useful. Happy,safe riding Doug
  14. dug050
    Hey SilverT Don't know if you have done your conversion yet but was just reading some posts on fuel filters and saw your message. I relocated my fuel filter yesterday and used a filter from Canadian Tire. It is a "Certified" brand premium fuel filter, part # BF-3116. It is a metal housing with 5/16" connectors and sells for $3.99. The size and shape fit nicely in the space under the seat. You can't see when the filter is dirty but for that price and ease of replacing in the new location I figure I will probably change it at the start of each riding season. I used a 3/8" hose connector (Canadian Tire part # 23-7638) and joined the two lines that go on each side of the original filter and cut into the fuel line below the seat to install the new one. It took about 1/2 hour, start to finish...easy job. Happy, safe riding Doug
  15. dug050
    The motor will still crank if this switch is in the "kill" position but there will be no spark. This switch just shuts down the ignition system to shut off the engine without turning off the key.
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