Marcarl

Try running it with the breather fully installed. Give it a fresh oil change with top quality diesel oil. Clean and sync the carbs.

The shift shaft has a knuckle that leads to the straight shaft going back to the cross over shaft at the back of the setup. That knuckle will want to find it's home in the downward position,,, don't let it, it goes in the up position. Things won't line up or work properly unless you do, and you might even discover some markings there as well. Hope that all makes sense.

Somebody once said that in order to be classified as Christian you had to be about 25 years behind with the rest of the world.

You might get more interest if you didn't double post.

Tap your fuel pump with the ignition on and see if it will click. If so, it's the points in the fuel pump.

May the risen Lord find a place in your heart.

i found that it's not necessarily the shop, it's the procedure followed or maybe how close it's followed. Canam does alignment on front wheels using the body center line. This way the wheels are aligned to each other, the fronts to the rear. Yah, it's a bit of work but then it's rewarding.

Front wheel alignment. Had that issue when I bought my 2014. Front wheels need to be aligned with the rear wheel, not the body necessarily. It's been about 6 years since I did this and it's not on-line anywhere that I know of. Hopefully I remembered all the steps I took. A little understanding though might be needed. Also, this is not how Canam does their alignment, but they did it 3 times and 3 times they failed. Concrete floor, flat and level. 1) install and set the belt for the rear wheel. 1A) set and fasten the steering gear in perfect center, measure well, set snug. 2) set a target behind the bike about 1' behind the tire to use for marking on, 1x3 works great, pasted to the floor. 3) using a laser mark the rear wheel outsides on the 1x3, not the tire, the wheel. 4) now you can measure to mark the center of the bike on the 1x3. 5) make 2 identical inserts to fit the front wheel hubs so that you can set a laser on them and rotate from floor to rear. Identical, very important!!! I made mine with some brass and a speaker magnet glued to it to hold the laser. 6) shoot the laser to the floor at the tire and make that mark on a piece of masking tape pasted on the floor. 7) roll the bike ahead and measure the distance between the marks, make note. eight) now shoot the laser to the 1x3 from the front wheel and make that mark 9) both marks should be the same distance from the center mark from the back wheel. 10) check to see how the measurements work out compared to the front measurement. 11) you can now adjust the tie rods so that the front tires have a 5 to 10 degree toe-in. As you drive they will automatically toe-out a bit to come straight as they should. 12) a crowfoot wrench is very handy to get at the inside nuts.

Touchy stuff, there is a real reason for the arrow on the sidewall, not sure if it means anything but it's there for a purpose. For most everything may go just as planned until the plan flies out the window and then it means all hands on deck but one or two hands were tied up elsewhere. You might get away with it, and then again you might not. Figure first what it might save you and then consider what the savings amount to.

Order a whole bunch, they're only $1.59 ea. A screwdriver is not a special tool, you will bust the basket, you need to hold the basket at 2 points minimum or do as I did and just rattle the nut on and then stake it in place.

Yah welll, there was a lot to go on that picture!

I remember that!!!

Maybe it's the kill switch or the side stand switch.

I would think that replacing the wires and the ends should do the trick,, don't go cheap, get good stuff.

That's a pretty nice lookin 86 I'd say.