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cimmer

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cimmer last won the day on September 24 2021

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About cimmer

  • Birthday March 10

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  • Name
    Rick

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  • Location
    Bloomington, MN, United States

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    Bloomington

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  • State/Province
    MN

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Bike Year and Model
    89 Venture Royale

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  1. Let us know how they do as I have always been leary or stuff from China but I sure hope they work out for you. The project is lookiing fabulous to say the least.. Rick F.
  2. have you adjusted the idle mixture screws yet on the carbs? best practice is to lightly screw them in counting the revolutions as you do this. Use a light touch as it is easy to distort the end of the mixture screw if you tighten them too hard. Back them out to the number of turns that you counted and see if that helps. Do one at a time and you should be able to hear a change in how the engine sounds when they are closed off. I would start with #2 since you saw issues with that one. It is possible you have a clogged idle circuit and it might be why you see gas in that carb. If you need some pictures and reference, the service manual is available to be download from here. https://www.venturerider.org/manuals/1983-1985 Yamaha Venture Service Manual.pdf Also if you havent already, you might want to browse thru this forum looking for information also.. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forum/10-venture-and-venture-royale-tech-talk-83-93/ Let us know how it goes and if you have questions. Rick F.
  3. Since you say clean the carbs, I am hoping you set the idle screws and also balanced the carbs after the cleaning. If not I would do that also. Yes it could be a float level off but if that was the case I wouldnt think the cylinder would fire with the enrichment activated as I believe it gets the fuel from the float bowl. When you rev up the engine, does it seem to be firing then on all 4 cylinders? You could also pull off the air cleaner lid and observe the 4 plungers and see if they are all moving at idle or at a slight rev up. The bike wont run proper above 3K rpm with the lid off so it wont work to leave it off to ride it. Good luck and lets us know how it goes.. Rick F.
  4. The reason putting the air filter lid back on makes a difference is that they are constant velocity carbs and need the vacuum created by the air filter box to make the diaphragms work properly. They will idle a bit but wont rev up must past 3K without having issues with the lid off. Also there isnt a gasket for the carb boot for its seating surface for the head. It uses an O-ring for that. What you can look for is as mentioned before, make sure the carbs are seated properly in the boots and the clamps are in the correct position and tight. Also check and make sure that the vacuum caps on the vacuum ports for carbs 1, 3 & 4 are tight and not cracked and leaking air. Carb #2 has a hose connected to it that run up the the ignition box for vacuum advance. If the bike is idling at 3K, there is a knob on the left side of the bike, under the left side carb rack that adjust the idle speed. Also check the 1st Gen Forum Library and under manuals, you can download a copy of the service manual for your bike. Hope this helps. Rick F.
  5. The sending unit is located in the tank under the seat. It has a wire running to a spade connection I believe. If you have the service manual, check page 8-29 in the APPX section. This diagram shows cable and wire routing and you can see the fuel level sending unit connection between the frame rail just above the cross member. Also check page 7-67 as they talk about testing the sending unit on that page and show its location. Good luck. Rick F.
  6. I would be concerned that the air cleaner box is off the carbs and who know for how long. This brings into question as to what condition the motor is in. So NO I wouldnt give them $500 for it. Maybe $100 but dont expect it to run and you might be able to get your money back out of it if you parted it out.. I personally would look for one in running condition and pay a little more for it. Rick F.
  7. I scanned some of the instruction sheets I have for different Venture Line accessories for the 1st Gen bike so incase other need the information it might help them out.
  8. Earl, aka Skydoc_17 has a replacement fuse box he sells or at least did. Check out this link. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/topic/63155-first-gen-vr-1983-to-1993-fuse-box-upgrade-kit/#comment-800670 Hope this helps you out. Rick F
  9. I am not sure what the number would be but Yamaha list this as this.. Bulb (12V-3W) with part number 1NL-83517-00-00 and not available anymore. I would take one out and take it to somewhere to compare it and see if you can find one that works. I have never had to replace one yet so havent taken the time to see if I can find one. The service manual doesnt break it down any better either so just take one and compare to find the correct bulb is your best bet. Good luck. Rick F.
  10. The only other place I can think of is ebay but that isnt going to be any quicker than going to Sport Wheel and getting one. I am not sure if there is any radiator repair shops around anymore that would work on it for you but that might be your best bet if you can find one.. Rick F.
  11. I would suggest you download the service manual for your 1983 Venture from here.. https://www.venturerider.org/manuals/1983-1985 Yamaha Venture Service Manual.pdf This will give you the information you need on bleeding the brakes or any other service you might need to do to your bike. Under the rubber flap is a bleed valve for the hydraulic clutch. There are a few grease points on your 83 Venture but that isnt one of them. Rick F.
  12. that is the wire from the stator to the voltage regulator. Possible there was some corrosion on the connectors that increased the resistance and that caused the current to get too night and melt the wire. Most likely you will need to replace the wire and connectors. Rick F.
  13. When you say the smaller of the two holes, are you aware there are 3 holes between the engine and the throttle blade. The smallest of the holes is the idle Pilot outlet hole for the idle circuit. This hole is passing a fuel/air mixture and if the black stuff is coming out of there, it could be a bad o-ring that is used in the pilot screw set. The other 2 holes appear to be air holes for vacuum the coasting enrichment valve assemble and piston valve/diaphragms. You might have to remove the pilot screw and see what shape the o-rings are in. Be aware there is a spring, washer and o-ring in there and they can be hard to remove. You might need to stick a small stiff wire in there to work them all out and there are replacements available for a number of sources. Hope this helps. Rick F.
  14. If you notice the parts diagram only show 2 carb holder and 2 air box connectors. I can see the confusion as they show the carb holder like it is under carb #1 but if you look the vacuum port is facing the wrong way for #1 but the correct way for #2. I can even see a bit of a line that they use to show where the part connects. Does it make a difference, most likely not as when you sync the carbs the hose isnt connected to anything at that point. You still will need to sync carb 1 to 2 then sync 3 to 4 and then sync 4 to 2 to get them balanced. Engine should be pulling vacuum equally from all the ports once that is completed. They key is to make sure you have part #11, nozzle, in the vacuum line. This helps to smooth out the pulses that are being sent to the pressure sensor to determine the advance that the ignition is using at any given time. Hope this helps. Rick F.
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