saddlebum

I would go along with what @Marcarl since carbs do not cause spitting back. Before pulling the carbs out. If its spitting back up the carb this suggests that the cylinder is drawing fuel in but during compression the intake valve is not sealing allowing the fuel to spit back out through carb. This can be caused by a sticking valve. Sticky valves can be caused by a bent stem or extremely dirty valve. Often this can be determined by noticing the valve clearance being exceptionally high. Valve clearances that are too tight can keep valves from fully seating. A broken or cracked valve or seat. Much of this can be determined by a compression but better yet pin pointed more accurately performing a leak down test. .

As well it is a good idea to check or even replace the bolt as they have been known to break at the most inopportune time

My 89 sits fine on the center stand but it sits too upright on the side stand. I always have to check ground grade before putting the side stand down and forget parking on the side of the road were the shoulders are narrow or it may fall over into the ditch. At home I have an anchor ring pegged down in the driveway to secure the bike so the wind which comes from the west and pretty heavy at times does not blow my bike over when it is covered. I tell my Harley ridding friends its because these bikes are so hot blooded that you have to tether them or they will just up and take off on their own.

Ok I officially hate You

At least It LIKE doesn't LIKE sound LIKE as silly as LIKE using LIKE numerous times LIKE in a sentence. We LIKE only LIKE use it once LIKE per phrase ----EH!

The fuel line between the filter and the carb could be deteriorating on the inside

search for ATM or MINI ATM fuse block

Happy Thanks Giving to all you Americans. Hopefully you still have some good gobblers left (not the human kind). This is why we have ours earlier up here so we get to snap up the best gobblers before they are all gone.

That's Eh! with a capital E and an ! mark BTW. If your gonna dabble in foreign languages you should try to get it right Eh!

Your Welcome but it if were not for the founder of this site and the members of the site the knowledge possessed by those members on this site that have it would not be able to share it with those that have need of it.

This also is a very good point. To add to it, when the diff cannot breath air gets drawn in through the seal but cannot escape. As the diff warms up and since the seal will not allow the air to escape pressure builds up in the diff compressing the moisture in the air to convert to water. As the diff cools a negative pressure forms in the diff allowing more air to enter the diff. further cooling depending on how much can cause condensation to add further to the water build up in the diff. As this cycle continues the water content in the diff builds and eventually you get enough water contamination to turn the oil into that tasty looking light fudge color (But Don't be tempted to sample it). After awhile if left long enough you will get a seal failure and you will see signs of oil leakage. Some years back Rockwell decided to install breathers in their truck diffs that were a third the size of what they used to be and because they were so small they would plug up with dirt and as a result we had numerous trucks coming in with the above mentioned issue all coming in with early wheel seal failures and that lovely brown liquid fudge. We eventually figured out the cause was that these undersized breathers were plugging up cause the scenario I also described above. Since the hole was too small to go back to the larger breather and drilling and tapping was out of the question due to warranty we started replacing the Rockwell breathers with the J tube style breather that Eaton used on their diffs. and the problem was solved. It was so prevalent that eventually Rockwell's warranty fix for this issue was to use the Eaton breathers. Following rear ends went back to the larger breathers and the issue disappeared.

Another possible cause can be dry drive pins in the rear wheel hub. Remove the wheel clean the pins rubbers and holes of any rust or debris, then lubricate the contact surfaces of the bins and sockets and reinstall. A high tack water proof grease such as red N tacky, any marine stern drive propeller shaft or grease such as Volvo Penta 828250 propeller shaft grease. The main thing is that the grease is a high tack, high temp water resistant grease which is rubber friendly. Though I have not used it myself some even like to use fluid film and swear by it. P/S You can check your wheel bearings at the same time.

Maybe that someone added a heavier spring so the choke would self cancel because they had a tendency to accidentally leave the choke on, only realizing it many miles later. Don't ask....

Even here in Canada all the trucks we sell at our Volvo truck dealership, have California emission standards stickers on them because we know that these units do run to California and are not allowed in the state without the sticker. But this has been going on for some years now so not sure why all of a sudden it is surfacing as an issue in lieu of the Covid issue.