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saddlebum

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Everything posted by saddlebum

  1. Well I do admit there are times when I like to let my pony have its head but most times I keep her on a short rein or ride it as as you say like I borrowed it. I usually prefer taking the back roads instead of the highways and enjoying the scenery ( maybe I'm starting to get a tad long in the tooth ) . Its also my daily commute vehicle, to and from work, from the time the roads are clear of ice and snow, until the snow returns, which these days is about ten months out of the year. Commuting to work involves riding in a lot of stop and go traffic which is were I really appreciate the clutches ability to slip clutch when needed or want it, since I hate constantly coming to a full stop and putting my feet down all the time, ( and I am not a bike walker ) yet it will take a firm hold as well when needed. Like I said I do not have your expertise which I have the utmost respect for, I can only give MHO based on what I have experienced with my own bike. BTW what do you mean unusually kind? I thought I was always kind
  2. Its extremely rare that I disagree with you Earl and I still don't claim to know better. I just know that I have run the Barnett carbon fiber clutch for about 70,000 KM now give or take and I have not noticed any of the issues you pointed out. Always smooth yet solid engagement. No slippage or increased engine heat and slip clutching to be able to move at an almost dead stopped crawl is a dream with no bad side effects. For myself I cannot say anything bad about this clutch and would have no issue installing another one should this one ever wear out which so far it is showing no inclination of doing anytime soon.
  3. Yes he will certainly be missed.
  4. Was the bike in gear with the kickstand down or did you simply shut the bike off by putting the kickstand down while in gear and leave the key in the bike in the on position ( this one cost me few beers when I had to go back into the bar to get some able bodied chaps to push start me ) Check battery voltage and then watch how much voltage drops when you try to start the bike. If it does not drop at all you have a wiring or switch issue maybe even a bad starter with an open internal circuit, . If it drops of severely you likely have a battery issue or possibly a starter with seized bearings or internal short. If the relay does not make a click sound you may possibly have a bad starter relay starter relay or fault in the primary starter circuit. try jumping across the two big posts on the the starter relay. Here is a brief guideline I devised and give my apprentices to do quick check of the starting system before tearing things apart. Starter and electrical issue diagnosing.pdf
  5. This is quite common. Often pads which withstand higher operating temperature quiet often need to heat up to a certain temperature before they become fully effective. This is why you will often see stock car drivers ride their brakes before a race in order to warm them up so they have maximum brake effectiveness during the race also another reason why just because something is used on the track does not mean it is good for everyday driving. I have also known brake pads that have amazing stopping power but loose 50-70% of it when the rotors are wet and cold. When asked I generally tell people unless their vehicle is constantly heavily loaded, pulling a trailer or running hills constantly not to buy the high end pads but stick to something closer to the middle range and for that Sunday driver or the person who only gets out once or twice a week to do a bit of shopping the cheap organic pads are probably their best choice since at slow speeds softer pads stop better and there is little or no metal in the pads to rust from sitting and metallic pads do corrode even crumble and fall apart from lack of use due to a vehicle spending more time parked than driven. Believe me its no fun trying to convince a person that the brakes on their car are scrap even though they barely have any millage on them.
  6. All of the above are true. I have switched to I switched to the Bosch ES16 brake fluid and have noticed quite the difference. Even clutch and brake response has improved. It has a higher boiling point both wet and dry. Wet boiling point is the temperature boiling begins to occur when brake fluid icontains a certian amount of moisture. Dry boiling point is when there is no moisture present in the brake fluid. See attached link https://www.boschautoparts.ca/documents/101512/0/0/7c8c2217-78dd-0adc-c840-91edb62866a3 Also organic brake pads can be an issue as well because they have a greater tendency to glaze over at lower operating temperatures then other higher end friction materials. Glazing is what causes brake failure and once pads are glazed over they loose much of their friction ability and so stopping ability becomes compromised. Organic pads are easier on rotors and are very good for in town driving because initially they grab better than other materials. But in hard braking situations like riding hills or pulling a trailer they begin to glaze over and loose their braking effectiveness.
  7. I get that and it was as a preventative that she tried them but still got poison ivy.
  8. I also discovered by accident that a GEN 1/MK1 seat put on a GEN1/MK2 also lowers you about 1-1/2'' and its just a straight drop on. No modifications needed. Only thing is the passenger part of the seat is smaller than the MK2 I used the space to slip in a Harley handle bar pouch.
  9. Glad most of your trip was enjoyable.
  10. Raggy does have a point. With those knees of yours, your not likely to out run your hunting partner if the bear gains the upper hand and attacks
  11. The connectors at the ignition module are not weather sealed and if there is any green fretting in those connectors any moisture getting in and mixing with that green fretting material will wreak havoc with you ignition as it creates a path for electrical crossover. You also have a strong argument for water in the fuel as you stated it is not uncommon for fuel stations to get water in their holding tanks after a heavy rain and your timing certainly suggests strong possibility of getting bad fuel. Back fire can also be the result of unburnt fuel from a misfiring cylinder being ignited in the exhaust system by the hot exhaust stream of a firing cylinder.
  12. My wife tried those a few years ago after getting poison ivy over half her body and so bad that she had to get shots and cortisone cream. They did not work at all for her.
  13. I used the Barnett carbon fiber clutch kit with pressure plate about 6 years ago and its still working great. Carbon fiber is recommended if you do a lot of slip clutching like crawling through a parking lot at less than walking speed and great for trailer pulling without clutch slipping.
  14. Most hardware, automotive or farmers hardware suppliers have assortment bins from which you should be able to find what you need.
  15. That sounds more like a hydraulic issue than a slipping clutch. Check your clutch fluid level and try flushing and bleeding your clutch system. Don't forget to finish off by cracking the bolt which holds the line to the master open while maintaining pressure on the clutch lever. Make sure to tighten bolt before lever bottoms out. repeat until only air free fluid escapes. NOTE: use plenty of covering under and around the area of the master to avoid getting fluid on stuff you don't want damaged. I usually wrap a rag around the bolt and wrench and listen for air rather than watch as fluid with air in it makes a distinct sound, something like forcing saliva between the tip of your tongue and the roof of your mouth, were clean fluid escaping makes no sound.
  16. Stared at it woefully. Between a major cellulitis infection that resulted in some flesh removal from my leg and time spent 1st on two portable IV units. Then from that I went on to what they call negative pressure wound therapy which I call attaching a small portable shop vac to my leg then on to cataract surgery in one eye with the other eye due to be done the end of this month I got one ride in, in June. BTW I would post pictures of the excavation site but I would not want half the membership to recycle their dinner on to their keyboard. Yes they let me take pictures as they worked. It was interesting to watch.
  17. @skydoc_17How much difference is there between adding the shim kit to the slider needle versus relocating the C-clip to the next groove on the needle?
  18. Just found some additional interesting info on lighting https://brightsource.ca/Compliant Lighting Info CANADA 062918.pdf An interesting point in the document was this one {{ It is unlawful to use LED or HID bulbs in a headlamp that originally came with Halogen bulbs }} check out pages 3,4 & 5. and this HEAD LIGHT BRIGHTNESS REG.pdf
  19. seems a common issue with 2nd gens switch to 1st gen ..............
  20. Pinch the key in a vise with some flat bar on both sides to avoid vise jaw marks and you might salvage it and soak the lock in penetrating oil for a few days.
  21. Yup they are junk! I will second Carl's suggestion to check out the source he posted a link to for the diaphragms. I have purchased from them on several occasions and am currently running their diaphragms in my present bike. another popular source is https://www.siriusconinc.com/search_result.php?search=search&make=2&model=xvz1300&part=1&partno=&x=36&y=11 The only thing is I believe they do not supply the slider but if you can come up with some good used sliders and need diaphragms these are good sources.
  22. lumvmy40 is correct on all accounts although you should have no issue detecting a slipping clutch. One thing with these V4's to keep in mind they run so well even on three cylinders that you don't notice sometimes that one cylinder is not firing until you try pulling up a grade in around the 2000 rpm range or find yourself down shifting on a hard pull or uphill grade sooner than you normally would. Though the Gen 2 is not as a quick as the Gen 1 specially the MK1 (83-85) they still are no slouch for a big bike with a stock engine. Check and make sure its firing on all four ( it may be something as simple as a bad plug ). Simplest place to start is to check and make sure you have spark on all four cylinders and if you do try a new set of plugs ( even a set of new plugs can sometimes have a faulty one ). f the bike had been sitting I would drain all the fuel including the carbs, replace with fresh gas and half a can of Seafoam to a full tank and take it for a good run keeping my rpms closer to the upper rpm range Who knows when the bike last had a valve set, it may be overdue which leaves the chance that there is not enough valve clearance which can compromise your compression values because if the valves are too tight they may not fully seat or have a longer open time than they should. So going over your valve settings is always a good idea. Carb issues is another thing to consider. whether it has had ethanol free gas or not crud can still build up in carb if it has been sitting. as the gas ages it begins to separate as volatile vapors evaporate from the gas. Sliders may become sticky and diaphragms may get old and brittle or just develop pin holes this were removing the diaphragms and sliders to inspect them is a good idea and while they are out give the carb a good flushing with a quality carb cleaner. Note as good as seafoam is as an additive, as a cold cleaning spray it is not as good as some of the more carb cleaning sprays. Even though it may have always used ethanol free gas keep in mind all gas still contains a small degree of moisture. As well depending on how often the bike has sat for long stretches there is condensation within the tank to consider. The lower the fuel level in the tank the more free surface area within the tank the more condensation/moisture accumulates in the tank. If the bike is never ridden with the valve in the reserve position this can allow for a nice collection of water to develop in the tank. ( I ride with the bike in reserve at all times except when on long road trips so that gas is always picked up from the lowest point in the tank to avoid accumulation of contaminates in the lower section of the tank ).
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