saddlebum

That is a relief to hear. Hang in there Joe.

Prayers for Joe and Deb. Hopefully Joe will pull through without any side effects.

Either day should be ok as far as I know at this point.

May not be so subjective. My last rear tire a Dunlop E4, had a big lengthwise split in middle of the tire (a split not a cut) and probing it revealed it was separating from the cord as well. It also started slipping in the cornors. The tire still had better than 50% tread and was new in 21. As well it spent the past year sitting on my lift in the garage. This is the third set of Dunlop's I had to replace before its time. The first set (E3's) I replaced because the bike suddenly started to slide sideways on highway ramps despite still having 30% tread, the rubber just got hard. The second set E4's at about 50% developed the same slipping plus a bad case of hair line side wall cracks too numerous and deep to feel comfortable about. And now this second E4 with the 2 1/2 " split to the cord down the inside of one of the grooves. Plus it too was starting to get slippery. I am done with high end Dunlop's. If any thing I would go back to the 404. However I decided to give the SHINKO 777 a try since they seem to have a good following on this site. I only replaced the rear and so far I am very pleased with it.

I too have to cancel out. Leaving for St Louis Monday and It turns out I need to replace my rad, front brakes and rotors before I go.

Mmm yes not promising but still a few days away. could change. Sunday not looking much better. Monday I leave for a week returning the following weekend. I will still have the week after that off with no immediate plans for that week.

Pretty much sounds like bottom end rod knock to me. Chances are good crank is pooched as well. Top end would normally have more of higher pitch tapping sound versus a heavy knock. I would probably look for a good used engine rather than spend the time and expense of rebuilding. Drain the oil into a clean container and see what comes out with the oil.

And you Americans generally get stuff a lot cheaper than us Canucks do or as Cowpuck used to call us Canuckians.

I just found the invoice for my Deka battery while purging some paper work in my den. the purchase date was Mar 8- 2013. Some winters I put it on a battery tender and some I just plain forgot. In either case the batttery has never been removed from the bike and the bike has always sat outside through the winter under a good quality full bike cover Other than when in my garage to be worked on. To this day that battery is still kicking strong. That is over 10 years for a battery that cost me $94.00 at the time which was only $20.00 more than a standard Yuasa battery.

Maybe a suggested list of check points inc a lunch stop and then try to create a route to encompass them. Momma is in Highland IL which close to ST Louis, for the next three weeks so until she returns! I am the boss of me. ........I think anyway.

Like everyone else I am liking the news so far.

Here in Ontario unless you got the cash a second bike is out of the question because insurance company's still charge full pop for each bike even thoughyou can only ride one at a time. The excuse is you might let someone else ride the bike even if it's only once in a blue moon.

I resemble that 😇

To add to my earlier comment, Don, through your hard work I have learned a lot about the venture going from knowing very little to becoming extremely knowledgeable and adapt to the point were with my Mechanical back ground there is nothing I cannot do on these bikes and I am now fully capable of assisting others with their issues. I met a ton of great people some of which have become great friends even beyond the site. For this and more I will be forever grateful that you had the inspiration and the determination to start and maintain this site.

Ironically I rewired a house that actually makes that look safe in comparison. The owner used every thing from several strands of bell wire twisted together to 000 gauge welding cable. On top of that he joined them together in sardine cans which he used as junction boxes. How he never burned the house down is beyond me.

Probably required an ohmmeter to check resistance through the port. High ohms reading jet in place. Low ohms reading jet missing.

It is not always about how long it sits. The age of the brake fluid is also a big factor as brake fluid will absorb moisture. I do not even save opened containers of brake fluid for more than a year and that is only for topping up purposes. I get a fresh container anytime I do a complete fluid change or brake job.

Best is to find a place that will make custom windshields. We have a place called PA Plastics that will fabricate any type of windshield you want in a variety of tints. You simply give them your old windshield and they will duplicate it, even include any modifications you would like such as shorter/taller or narrower/wider. If your windshield is broken just give them the pieces the will use them as a template to make the new one. https://paplastics.com/boat-windshields/windshields/products.html https://bikescreen.com/ interesting video

Personally I prefer the OEM carb setup. For one thing with four carbs you can balance the engine better which is specially nice if your compression between cylinders vary. With a single carb you cannot, you can only attain a general adjustment across the board. If a carb fails you can still run on the other three to get somewhere other than the side of the road. Finally looking at the setup you would also reduce air volume though I guess air velocity would increase, maybe. There is a reason why in the muscle car hay day we replaced 2 barrel carbs with four barrel or even 6 packs. JMHO.

Also if you still have the linked braking system or delinked them yet left the proportioning valve in place on your bike, remove and check the proportioning valve. it too gets loaded up with the white crud. Regardless which is the cause of you problem if you have not changed the fluid in a very long time, it would be worth your time to remove inspect and clean all and replace the brake line. You can get brake lines from @skydoc_17

There is a strict stipulation to this solution -----Bike must leak oil and shake at idle like a belly dancer.

Trust me I can relate. Dutch blood does run in my veins.

#1 did you remove the air cleaner #2 Did you make sure throttles are wide open #3 Make sure you have optimum cranking power add a boost battey or good charger Manual states 216 psi @ 175 rpm. This is for a fairly new engine and will reduce as the engine ages. Most used engines run between 110 and 130 PSI and no more than 20% between highest and lowest cylinder. Last time I checked mine they were 98- 120 psi and the engine runs like a dream. In any case I would not loose sleep over the readings you are getting and look more into fuel control for your rich fuel conditions.

https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf Maybe the schematic link above will help you trace the circuits so you can narrow down as to were to look for a definite short between power and ground. It would appear when the bike fell over some wires got pinched so look in ares of physical damage for chaffed or pinched wires.