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V7Goose

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About V7Goose

  • Rank
    old dude - 2005 RSV
  • Birthday January 30

Personal Information

  • Name
    Kent Maurer

location

  • Location
    Ruidoso area, NM, NM, United States

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  • City
    Ruidoso area, NM

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  • State/Province
    NM

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Interests
    Guns, hunting, fishing, diving, motorcycles
  • Bike Year and Model
    2005 RSV QuickSilver
  1. You should NEVER need to touch the choke unless it is quite cold out. If you need to use it to start in warm weather, that is a primary indication that you probably have some blockages in you primary jets or other problems with your fuel mixture (such as vacuum leaks). Properly set up and tuned, with clean carbs and no other mixture or ignition problems, that engine will ALWAYS start with just a momentary touch of the button and nothing else. A hard acceleration at 60 MPH does call for a downshift, at least to fourth, and maybe even third. But even in 5th gear, that engine should not "ch
  2. New Mexico is probably too far away from where the bike is now, but I have the space here if you can use it. Goose
  3. Well, I am late to this game, and I only quickly scanned all the posts after the OP - but just based on the initial information (started fine and died when put into gear), it seems to me to be almost certainly an issue with one of the interlock switches (clutch, sidestand, neutral), or the starter relay (which actually contains three relays related to the interplay of those three interlock switches). There are also a couple of diodes in those circuits. One big disclaimer here - all this is just from faded memory - I have not pulled out the schematics to refresh anything! I have never seen
  4. I have absolutely no idea what the "shotgun method" is or if it would work for a 2nd gen - I was simply making a joke about how much damage you would do to any engine if you shot it with a gun. I'll admit that I also editorialized a little bit by indicating that I think some vehicles deserve to be shot. None of that was actually germane to the OP's request for help, so I apologize for the short side trip. Goose
  5. If you fire a shotgun into that engine, I'm pretty certain that you will have more (and different) problems. I would not do that. Although I can certainly see it having a wonderful benefit for an ugly V-Max. There are about a billion threads on this site dealing with the carbs and general tuning issues. I know that finding those might be a bit of a challenge for new members, but spend some time in the tech library . . . You have mentioned doing a temperature check - problem is, there ain't really any places on a water cooled bike that you CAN actually check individual cylinder temps.
  6. Just going on old and weak memories, but I do not recall any stock relay in that location. From your picture, it looks more like an aftermarket horn relay that someone did a very poor job of installing. The obvious answer is to track down the wires that connect to it. IF it is stock from yamahaha, the wires will go into an existing wire bundle, if aftermarket, they will probably just be flapping free as individual loose wires. I THINK the fuel pump relay is part of the starter relay, but I am REALLY NOT sure of that - those memories are old and dusty, and I don't feel like digging into t
  7. There are only two vacuum lines on an RSV - one goes to the front AIS valve near the radiator, and one goes to the rear AIS valve below the right rear of the engine. these lines are very important, as the high vacuum shuts off the air induction into the headers when you close the throttle, thus eliminating popping and after-fire on deceleration. You must make sure that these hoses are not cut or nicked at the intake nipple, as well as making sure the other two vacuum caps are soft and have NO age cracking when you bend them. It is common for ham-fisted mechanics to nick those lines with
  8. This makes no sense to me at all (pushing in the slide? leaking air?), but it does hint at where you problems probably are. First of all, the issue IS your carbs, not the spark. While there are certain conditions that can cause a weak spark to fail good ignition (including low-RPM loads), this is so unlikely that I would personally totally ignore it at this point. Your description of bogging on an open throttle until the RPMs build is a classic carb problem; typically low fuel availability, but also can be air related. CV carbs use differential air pressure on each side of the diaphra
  9. You DO have a fuel supply problem. If all is normal, the pump will never click when the key is turned on soon after the last shutdown (the carb bowls will remain full until enough time has passed to allow some fuel to evaporate out).
  10. Pull the petcock and clean the screens. Then rinse the tank to get other debris out. Then change your fuel filter.
  11. You say the clutch issue is resolved - not sure I follow how you came to that conclusion. The large nut holding in the clutch basket should NEVER come loose - that is why there are lock tabs on the base washer! Finding it loose is a huge problem, and I strongly suspect it was the original cause of your issues. My only assumption is that some incompetent goober was in there changing the clutch basket, and the boob never bothered to properly torque and lock the nut?? Hopefully nothing is damaged. At this point I would remove the basket and carefully and slowly inspect EVERYTHING for any scra
  12. Yes, it would take a LOT of pressure to push that rod to move the pressure plate - no way to do it by hand. I cannot really tell from your pictures, but something doesn't look quite right on the bottom left one - almost like the end of that rod is bent down? Be sure to carefully check the parts breakdown for all the specific parts and the order before you re-assemble. Goose
  13. From what I read here, the problem seems to be either a frozen slave cylinder (very rare if not a bazilion years old and sitting long time) or something stuck in the clutch pack/pressure plate. I have seen the exact thing happen if the pressure plate is not properly engaged with the clutch basket after replacing the clutch plates. But I cannot think of any way that could happen gradually after the clutch was already working properly unless something broke in the clutch. I would start by making sure you have good resistance at the lever (if not, you need to get more air out). Once you are
  14. The tap up & down function has always worked perfectly on my bikes. I regularly change speeds up or down 5 MPH with 5 taps when adjusting to speed limit changes. Goose
  15. This is not a significant issue. I have noticed on all three of the RSVs I have owned/used, that the cruise switch does not always self-center (two of the bikes were brand new, so not a contamination problem). It bothered me not knowing if that could cause some sort of problem, so I took a look at the cruise schematics. Just going from old vague memory here, but I recall that the cruise system uses a self-latching relay when you turn it on. This means that the power is only momentarily supplied by the switch, and then when the relay activates, it disconnects from the switch and provides it
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