Rob Swallows

Thanks to all for the suggestions. The job foreman says I can store my rail trailer at his home for the duration and and the problem is alleviated. I don't have an original owners, or users manual for this bike as the original owner misplaced it. I will look to get one acquired for something so simple as programming the radio was a real "chore" on this system. Thanks again,

I have an upcoming job about 1200 miles distant and will be there a good portion of the summer. Planning to drive my SUV and wondering if I can tow my 2005 RSV with the back wheel on the pavement while the front wheel is restrained in a "Slick Willie" hitch assembly? Really like to have the bike with me and not take a trailer. Thanks,

Please see attachment and thanks. Rob Venture Rider.doc

Hey Goose, thank you very kindly for responding. I have researched many of your past posts and really admire your desire to help folks with legitimate problems to facilitate corrections. In honesty I'd thought you had left the site given the prevalent "soap opera" theatrics mentality to remain popular from some of the older participants I've seen. Your postings of several years ago and tips and tricks helped greatly with rebuilding my carburetors just last month. Discovering you are still an active participant I get to thank you personally and openly. "Thank You" for your past and present assistance. This cruise control problem I know is not normal and is out of design criteria for when the bike was engineered. My analysis of up to a six second engagement cycle is accurate and proven through many iterations, as are the other symptoms. I can design around it if need be, but would rather not reinvent the wheel so to speak. It can and will work better but I'm not accustomed to working on these type things so solicit active feedback from folks whom may have suffered the same quandary. Maybe we can all learn this way. Instead you can witness the rhetoric posted to the original question by those whom don't know anything, nor want to learn being of a "closed minded" mentality with only personal website popularity being their guidance. I would prefer these types didn't respond to my questions as I won't to theirs. I rode three of these bikes when they were brand new; 2004, 2006, and a 2007 as I was very good friends with the Yamaha dealership at the time. These bikes performed flawlessly and were just final assembled from their shipping containers. I know how they are supposed to perform and when I bring up a problem or concern, it is of a legitimate nature with my bike. If acceptable I would like to converse with you personally or through PM's. I've seen far too much preferred rhetoric and responses of late to questions posted on this website and is serves no purpose other than irritation when trying to solve problems. Again, I really appreciate and thank you openly for being one to openly share and offer knowledgeable guidance to keep these aging machines going. A huge side benefit of saving folks $$$ goes far too unappreciated also. So many of your caliber have departed the site which is a terrible loss of talent. Some I still speak with and I'm not alone in my thoughts. After what I've seen from some of the older participants of this website; my participation is going to be cut back as there is little here of interest. Thanks again, Rob

I'd wager you'd thought about it a time or two.....

Good idea and thanks for the post. Fellow at work does about the same with his pregnant wife whom cannot, (or won't) mount up on his Victory motorcycle any longer. They have the same intercom as you. He's one of those tech "geeks" and is all over that kind of stuff. How do you like your Sena set? I'm thinking along the lines myself.

Folded up nice, neat, and compact both mine and wife's new rain gear for storage into the saddlebags. She has the left bag, I have the right and the trunk is to be shared.

Yessir I am. CD players to this day unless ruggedized to military specification which are cost prohibitive in the consumer electronics market, will still skip with road jarring. The MP3, and above format is the way to go at present day, but even that is facing obsolescence at this time. Won't be too much longer and all music, (for instance) will be stored on the "cloud" and one will access it much like a tuner on a radio. No more moving parts to consumer music players in this instance. I expect future automotive cruise control will be GPS controlled also for road speed and collision avoidance in motives of the future.

Thank you and I have done that numerous times as was thinking the engagement switch had defective or intermittent contact closure. I've not taken anything apart and this may be a viable option but it does engage albeit slowly and inconsistent at times. I always hold the throttle in positon until I feel it start to roll within my hand before releasing. This was a learned trait over several iteration of attempting to engage the cruise control. If there isn't a problem w/the system it sure is frustrating 1970's cruise technology is better than what's installed on the bikes if this sloppy operation is normal.

HI and thanks. I did perform the alignments and check which were really just checks as nothing needed adjustment when I rebuilt the carburetors. I have the same problem Gary mentions with the set point and the actual road speed being different with the initial setting of the cruise. I may start "experimenting" with adjustments to calibrate an offset into this thing to make it work right, or may make something better. This is the first bike I've owned with OEM supplied cruise control and am wanting it to work right. This bike having the wheel speed sensor incorporated into the drive hub would be fairly easy to pick off a signal from to drive an external unit to actuate the throttle. Thanks, Rob

I'll have to dig up photos of an adaption I did for my 76 KZ-1000 years ago which worked very well. It was a "King Cruise" unit for a diesel truck which actuated a cable to operate the throttle. I drilled and tapped the drive chain sprocket cover, and drilled a hole in the output chain sprocket incorporating a hall effect pickup feeding the unit. Worked like a champ and monitored sprocket speed regardless of gear you were in, so needed to be careful as engine rpm's went very high if engaged in lower gears with a low road speed. It would regulate well within 2% of set speed. The engine having a whole lot of power, never stumbled to keep up to road speed no matter how heavy the bike was. This unit did not use engine vacuum and was a push pull comparator circuit, (basically a modified Triac). Ahh, back in the days when I used to enjoy fiddling.....

The cruise control works very well once engaged, but it can take up to six seconds before taking effect. I know this isn't normal and it's not consistently this long. The hose on the vacuum pump looks good with the clamps present, and once engaged, it works very well. It passes all self tests fine and readily accelerates up an incline regulating road speed as should. I usually push the "set" button about a second before releasing and sometimes the engagement is immediate, other times if the throttle is let go road speed will drop about 10mph before the cruise picks up. I've found holding the set button down for about 6-7 seconds is intermittent as far as engagement time also. It has never failed to engage, just varying times for engagement? Don't really know where to start but is there an air filter for this vacuum pump installed someplace, or does it share another air filter someplace? Thanks, Rob

I agree with the masking or covering up of the problem. That being said the system really is passive in nature requiring no engine power to drive, only vacuum and a fresh air source. No real reason to defeat the system if easy to maintain. There is an air filter incorporated and if this is not maintained the system WILL give problems. I suspect it's easy to just look at it as "emissions crap" but w/no active feedback to supply the ECM, it really is transparent to the bike's operation. Nothing really wrong with defeating the system at all except you may have more "sooting" to the exhaust pipes than with the system operational as fresh air injection causes the exhaust gasses to become hotter just as an oxygen stream placed into an acetylene gas flame makes for a flame that vaporizes steel easily.

I know and have read in several places about the AIS causing the decelerating backfire through the exhaust pipes. What is the failing item? Is it the reed valve, the air cutoff valve, rubber tubing connecting and controlling the air cut off valve, or other interconnections? Mine backfires too but I'd like to ascertain what is most likely suspect before either repairing, or disabling the system. I see the limited test procedure available in the service manual posted on the site here. All my rubber parts appear sound and all clamps are in place. Can any of these parts be cleaned with carb cleaner as example due to carbon fouling, or dirt? I certainly am glad to have that buzz addressed as it was really annoying but now to move to the next annoyance with the bike. Thanks, Rob

I've removed the saddlebags and went for a ride with no joy as a result; the rattle was still persistent. Did do a bit of cleaning while it was apart but nothing worth mentioning except tightened all fasteners very snug: Reinstalled the saddlebags hoping a simple repositioning of parts would do the trick but again, no joy. I went to remove the trunk and discovered I'm a victim of my own "**** for brains" mentality sometimes as evidenced by these photos. The first being the empty trunk: Now as soon as I lifted the edge of the trunk foam, this is what I discover laying on the right side: I'd purchased that section of hydraulic brake line several years ago for a Land Rover I was working on not remembering I'd stuck it in the trunk, and having to purchase another section to finish the job. Such a ignorant mistake on my part thought I'd share. This rattle has really driven me nuts all summer since starting to ride again but never had an inkling to check under the mats for anything until attempting to physically remove the tour package units. I guess we live and learn. Thanks to all for the assist. With all the findings, repairs, modifications, etc. I'm doing and have done to this bike it is really starting to grow on me. Even had an older gent and wife riding an Electra-Glide Classic tell me it was a good looking bike at a stoplight last evening. Older gent lacking all the riding garb and tatoos; his comment was sincere I felt. Rob