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VR Assistance

  1. Just bought a 2005 Tour Deluxe. Notice the distinct whine/whistle at lower speeds and during acceleration. Seems to go away if I pull in the clutch or let off the throttle, not so noticable on the freeway. This appears to be a common phenomenon and I have seen it attributed to Clutch, transmission, and/or shaft. Looking for help here as to what exactly this is and what I need to do to have this fixed or reduced (if possible) and if I cant do it myself, how much it should cost and who can fix it. Thanks for ANY help. Paul
  2. So I sent my 02 to a local independent small shop to have him do my clutch. He calls me and says the starter now runs as soon as he turns on the key. I have never heard this before. The only "non stock" item on my bike is the Wallo Horn install. He said the ground wire is connected at the point where the horn is mounted. He forgot to connect it at first... went back and connected it now starter running. Ideas? Help please. Did he fry the starter some how?
  3. The clutch doesn't release completely and the trike tends to creep ahead. Probably a simple procedure to most of you, but I just need a little help here. I changed the fluid. I now need to bleed the system. Thanks. Owen.
  4. I am pleased to announce for our VR members a starter clutch mod that will last forever and put an end to that "Clunkety-clunk" that you hear when your starter clutch is going bad. I will let Squeeze explain it much better than I ever could: The stock Starter Clutch is a one Way Clutch which uses three spring loaded Rollers the connect to the big 72th Gear Wheel which is the last Gear in the line of several Gears coming from the Stater Motor. These 3 Rollers connect (in Fact they run) to the inner Area of the Wheel by spring Force and clamping Force. This whole Assembly sits in a Housing which is bolted to the Flywheel with 3 Bolt in M8 Thread. Over Time, these Bolts tend to get a little bit loose plus the Rollers and the Surface they're running at develop some flat Spots and chattering Marks too. This is the common Scenario where the Problem starts to get heard. If the Battery is cold and/or isn't in the best Shape anymore, the Rollers can't "bite" strong enough to the connecting Area and the Clutch lets go for a half a Turn. If The Rollers bite on a chattering Mark or a flat Spot the Connection they may hold on or let loose again. This Movement creates the hammering Sound and puts a Lot of more Force on the loose Bolts. This, of Course, allows even more uncontrolled Movement of the Clutch Assembly and a even more dysfunctional Clutch. As an nasty Side Effect, the Clutch can, and i know of two Cases where it actually did, cause the Starter to act as an Generator because the One Way Clutch wasn't a Clutch anymore but a solid Connection. This caused the Starter Motor to burn down on both Cases. I suspect a Lot more of these Cases, but there's not enough reliable Data for me to make a final Call. I've seen a Lot of these Clutches and not one of them was even partially reusable. I have Buddies which tried to reuse some Parts, but they did the Job twice or even three Times in the End. I know a Bunch of Guys with heavily modified Engines, meaning 1500 cc Vmaxxes at least, and each and everybody of them had their Share of Head Ache in this Regard. The Record Holder of those is the Guy with a 1600 cc High Compression Motor who needed three complete Starter Clutch Assemblies each Season. So, in the End, you have two Options to get the Job done First Option is to buy a complete Set of new Parts, not just the small Set of Rollers, Springs, Caps, but also three Bolts, the Housing and the 72th Wheel, mount the Assembly exactly in centered Position to the Fly Wheel, red Loctite the Threads of the Bolts and don't forget to punch the End of Threads with a Center Punch. Then cross your Fingers, say a Prayer or both and hit the Starter Button after completing the Install. Feel good about the cheap (around 185 Bucks for the Parts) Repair but you need to keep the Procedure in Mind, because most likely you'll do that again some Time later. Or Second Option Send your Rotor over to Dano in a 12x10x5 Inch Package, get it back with the Gaskets (optional), don't worry about having the Clutch Assembly mounted exactly centered to the Flywheel, just mount the Rotor and the new 72th Wheel and have a good Time while being a happy Camper. This is because Dano will mount a much more sophisticated Clutch Assembly, which uses 18 Ellipses instead of three Rollers. The Ellipsis are spring loaded too and because of their Shape, not only bite at the 72th Wheel, but lock up the Connection between Rotor and 72th Wheel. Because of the ellipsoid Design, you won't need to worry about burning down your Starter Motor. I sure you weren't worried about that before, but it's good to be sure anyway. Not to mention, getting the Flywheel off the Crank Shaft can be a ... well ... how do it say this ... pita ... Yes, this Upgrade is more expensive than Option 1 and it will need a little bit more of Downtime because of the Transit Times of the Parcel. But you'll be a happy Camper and never think about the Starter Clutch Issue again. Oh, except maybe the Times somebody tells you his 1Gen or Vmax produces a hammering Sound upon starting ... Squeeze Now for the nitty-gritty. All you need to do is remove your flywheel/rotor, send it and a check for $275.00 (US, VR discount and return shipping included, Canada shipping a bit more) to me and a couple of days later I will return it to you with the starter clutch mod already mounted ready to go back on your bike. You will also need to get the 2 left side cover gaskets and crush washer for the lower bolt on the middle gear cover. If you would like me to supply them, an additional $15.00 will be added ($290.00 total US). If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to PM me or call me at 317-370-0139 anytime and I'll be happy to discuss it with you. An additional note here for non-members wishing this mod- Price will be $295 US, gaskets priced the same. Dan Shipping address: Dan Obert 8699 W 800 N Indianapolis, In 46259-9402 Paypal & email addy: danob11@comcast.net __________________
  5. The Barnett clutch was installed this evening. Took about an hour since I also cleaned up the areas I normally can't get to. Also took 15 minutes to find my darn 1/4 ratchet (never did find it - one of the kids must have borrowed it and forgot to put it back - Grrrrr). As promised, here is the installation with pictures. Here is the Barnett clutch plate as received. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-rLB7KNp/0/M/P1000116-M.jpg These are the tools required. Ball end Allen wrenches, mechanics picks, and an in-lb torque wrench. Not shown is a 10mm socket/combo wrench for removing the Stebel horn (if installed - not sure if you need to remove a stock horn) and the stock spring holder ring. You will also need a pair of needle nose pliers. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-FQTRxKX/0/M/P1000118-M.jpg Put the bike on the side stand and put an oil pan under the clutch cover side. No need to drain the oil unless you smoked your clutch. Then an oil change would be needed. Put the transmission in neutral. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-JGw69SQ/0/M/P1000119-M.jpg Take off the horn and hang it from the rear foot board with a piece of coat hanger. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-4xXPJzH/0/M/P1000120-M.jpg Take the cover off the clutch. Pay attention to where the bolts go. There are two different length bolts. I suggest taking a piece of corrugated (cardboard), draw the cover shape including the oil fill for reference. Use a small screw driver to poke holes and insert the bolts in the appropriate location in the pattern. You may notice the gasket stayed intact on the engine. I reused it. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-j9rgXjB/0/M/P1000121-M.jpg Remove the 6 bolts holding the spring in place and remove the spring and pressure plate. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-v7v9BWC/0/M/P1000122-M.jpg Here are the parts removed. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-Zck5Cvw/0/M/P1000123-M.jpg Note the notches in the friction plate edges and the two punch marks on the clutch cage. This is important when reinstalling. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-sFfdMgK/0/M/P1000124-M.jpg This is where the mechanics picks come in handy. Makes the removal of the clutch disks really easy. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-Gv4cfxF/0/M/P1000126-M.jpg When all is removed, it looks like this. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-V3w5RwF/0/M/P1000127-M.jpg I had done the Freebird mod which removes the inner half friction disk and small bellville spring and replaces it with a full disk. This mod reduces the friction zone on the clutch handle. I wanted the additional friction zone so I am putting the half and half back in. Here are the pieces including the wire. You are supposed to use a new wire every time. However, I was really careful when removing it and am reusing my old wire (plus, I didn't think ahead of time to buy a new one). http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-7C5gF4Z/0/M/P1000128-M.jpg To be continued. RR
  6. I need to rebuild the clutch slave cylinder on my 89 VR. Parts should arrive tomorrow. Does anyone know a trick to fish out the cylinder without pulling the middle gear cover?
  7. Evening Everybody: New to the group and have owned my 2008 venture for a year or so and put about 12000 miles on it. I have the Whine coming from the clutch basket. It is not real bad and I was thinking about modifing the the stock exhaust system by removing the cone from the end of the exhaust and putting some holes in the last baffle. Has anybody done this or heard of the results of doing this. IE: gas mileage, engine performance ect....The hope is to make the pipes loader so I can't hear the whining from the clutch. Any information would be really appreciated. Thanks
  8. Good afternoon Venture owners! My 2005 Midnight Venture w/67,572 miles is exhibiting an annoying habit of not wanting to go into neutral easily. Clutch fluid was changed at Maintenance Day in 2016 w/59,248 miles, then again in Sept. of 2017 w/66,815 miles. Prior to MD in 2016 I had NEVER changed the clutch fluid and it was like used motor oil. I did find a previous dealer receipt at 36,560 miles where they recorded they "adjusted clutch" whatever that means. When I changed it last Sept. (2017) it was slightly colored, but not dark...nothing like MD change. Today, it looked nearly brand new before draining and replacing. The fluid coming from the bleeder valve was very clear and no air bubbles. Before draining (by syringe) the fluid in the reservoir, I noticed 3-4 dark "spots" in the bottom toward the left side of the reservoir. Any debris would naturally go here due to the lean of the reservoir and the bike on its side stand. When I disturbed the dark debris with a screw driver, it was suspended in the clean brake fluid, similar to the way food coloring would react when being mixed into water. I sucked it out with the syringe then slowly deposited it on a clean white rag looking for anything solid. The dark color was not anything solid in nature. 1) I've tried to do my own research here, and haven't found anything on the contaminate, but did find Condor's previous reply to someone cautioning against OVER filling the reservoir. My regular parking spot does not reveal any leaks, and the fluid level was not low. Too much fluid could be one issue I have had. Related to that, do I check the site glass siting on the bike with the handlebars in the straight forward position? Leaning to the right with full right turn in play in an attempt to get the top of the reservoir parallel to the ground? In what position should the bike be when checking the site glass for half full? 2) With 67,500+ miles should I be considering clutch replacement and upgrades, though I'm not having any other issues? Do the internal components of the clutch (friction surfaces, etc) degrade and breakdown? I have read some of the posts about weak springs, etc. Should I be watching/listening/feeling for tell tale signs of some catastrophic clutch failure with this mileage? I'm already planning on front springs (Progressive I suppose) and rear shock replacements this year, as the Venture has finally lost its smooth feeling ride. I am VERY disappointed that I can't make MD this year. It was a BLAST in 2016 and I learned SO MUCH! As usual, your expert advice is always sincerely and greatly appreciated!! Respectfully, John in Oregon
  9. Going to have to do a clutch job here soon on the 2nd Gen . Trying to decide on the Barnett conversion with OEM fiber disk , or PCW HD Clutch Spring kit with extra friction disk ? Have nearly 30K on the '06 , 8K pulling trailer . I'm starting to fill a little slippage in the clutch when I do a hard acceleration . I can baby it and it's OK for a mild trip . But why take a chance on making the it worse . I heard PCW is cheaper in price to do , but I want better quality (not knowing which is better), so cost is not an issue . I have not done a clutch job in over 30 years , so kinda out of the loop , you might say ! TIA BEER30
  10. Hello, I recently had an issue when my motorcycle was driven for a while(and the motor got hot) that my clutch got soft on me. I eventually found out that it was leaking and letting air into my hoses for the clutch. I figured out where it was leaking from and saw it bubbling out of a bolt at the top. The rubber seal(or o-ring) seems to have dry rotted and now lets the brake/clutch fluid out but only when it gets hot.The clutch is never soft when the motor is cool. I can't find anywhere in the diagrams or online what the name of the bolt is and what it is used for. It seems it is also holding some sort of small cover to protect the engine long with keeping the brake fluid in the bike. Attached is a picture. I am hoping someone can help me with this as I have looked ever where or this. I cant get the exact names of the two cycle like covers. I found one place where someone calls it the starter clutch cover and here saying it is the middle gear cover and the parts diagram calling it the chain case. I am getting confused. In the picture, I put an arrow a one of the two top bolts the other one is not leaking but I am sure it will. You can also somewhat see where the brake fluid leaks out of it. It does not seem to be leaking out of the actual cover in the front below the bolt. I am hoping someone can help me with this answer as soon as they can so I can use this bike again to get to work and save money on gas. I also forgot to mention this is a 1993 Yamaha venture royale.
  11. Anybody know the clutch bolt torque setting for an '87 VR ?
  12. Hello, First time posting, but wanted to give my 2 cents on the clutch disk/spring upgrade. BIG BIG BIG thanks to Freebird for the write up with pictures. Also big thanks to skydoc for being so helpful with the 2 orders and convincing me to purchase the friction disks as well. Basically if you open the clutch to replace the spring just go ahead and do the disks since its a pain in the ass to deal with. Several big questing I had before I did this where answered by members, but some of the write up's did raise more questions. Also I am 6 foot tall 330lbs if anyone needs measurements. 1. Will this change my clutch travel? If it did change it I didn't notice. The pull is a bit stiffer, but travel wise nothing that I could complain about. 2. Should I really swap out that last half disk? You should 100% change out that half disk along with new friction plates. Then close that case for another 60k miles. ONE AND DONE. 3. What about that Barnett conversion? Costs to much for what it is and after my install I think the travel/clamping/friction zone is perfect for the bike/weight. 4. Any problems with install? Get a torque wrench before you start. Have small small small picks available to pull that last half disk out it is a pain in the ass. The wire is much smaller then you think and you miss it at first. 5mm Allen key is needed otherwise pull the exhaust. I actually put a 5mmg allen bit into the bolt then turned it with a box end wrench all ghetto mechanic like. 5. How much oil did you lose? Well overall I measured about 50ml of oil lost. You should definitely put a pan underneath. It not a large amount but enough to cover everything with a fine layer of oil that makes you smell like burnt **** all day long. 6. What are these dots to line up people keep talking about? The clutch basket has 1 mark on it. The plate has 1 mark on it. Marked by the stars in the pictures. The bolt pattern is such that they will line up. Just match the stars. That is the only thing I lined up and have rode for 1100 miles at this point with no error or issue. I did steal the pictures from freebird.
  13. A new clutch configuration appeared on the 1987 Ventures, and other Yamaha models at the time. I have a couple of questions - is it superior, AND will it fit into a 1984? I see a few for sale eBay. The 2nd gear issue finally caught up to me, so thinking about upgrading some things while the engine is out and apart.
  14. I posted a little while back about this, and I've made some progress. I was having tranny issues so I did an oil change and previous to that threw some SeaFoam in the case for about 20 miles, it seems to have cleared things up quite a bit, while as earlier I could only shift If I toggled the back wheel back-n-forth, and pressed crazy hard, now I shift with almost no effort if the bikes moving. My question then is three-fold. 1. Is it normal that when you go into gear from start that the bike jerks forward a little bit even with the clutch in? it's kind of sounds like a big "CLICK" puts the gear in place a jerks a bit as it does so. Is that normal? I've never had a bike that does that 2. Why is that I can almost never get into first when I'm not moving? 2nd's usually ok, but 1st refuses to go unless I rock forward a bit, is that normal? and 3. It probably sounds like a stupid question to you guys who are so familiar with Ventures, but where's the air filter on this bike? Thanks! James
  15. Where would the letter code be located on the basket trying to buy one online and the image has an update clutch spring imtold him if it's an I basket I will buy it today he does not know where to look for the code and neither do I imhave been searching on line and can't find anything on how to determine the letter. F G or I
  16. Boy child called me. Bike is jumping out of first gear. Told him to start in 2nd a feather till we look it over. Then he call's back and lets me know that flid is running of of the clutch master. ARRGHH. I have a rebuild kit coming for the clutch master. Don't know if thats why the tranny was acting up or not. Any advice on either issue would be aprreciated. Both my son and I ride bike as primary transportation. So if it goes down he's down.
  17. Just did the clutch skydoc clutch upgrade. eliminated the slippage but now is hard shifting. i know the single and double notches line up....not sure about if they are in reference to the basket. was unclear about that. any opinions??? also a couple of times it killed when put into gear from neutral. like when you put the kickstand down when its in gear with clutch in.
  18. At the risk of boring redundancy with other threads, I thought I'd post my experience with the PCW clutch spring upgrade in my 05 QuickSilver. The bike has about 40,000 miles on it, and I thought I had been noticing just a bit of clutch slippage on hard acceleration and quick gear shifts. The problem was absolutely confirmed while we were riding back up from Corpus Christi last week and I did a 5th gear roll-on around 80 to pass - wasn't really getting anywhere like I expected, but a quick glance down at the tach showed the engine did pick up speed pretty quick! Ooops, had to take the passing pretty easy for the rest of the ride home. I called PCW to order the spring "kit", and they tried gently to talk me into ordering all new clutch plates too. I demurred and said "just the spring." I did ask them for info about why they wanted to replace the inside special half disk and wave washer with a full disk - why did they think that was better than the original design? The explanation kind of made sense that Yamaha had been extra careful for the wussy American market to design a clutch that was easy to pull and would always engage without any snatch or jerk. Since I don't consider myself a wuss, I decided to go ahead and replace it with the full size plate like they suggest. The kit consists of just the new thicker PCW spring, one stock Yamaha friction plate, and one stock Yamaha gasket. Just like others have reported, the instructions were easy to follow and the job was done quickly and without incident. I did take the opportunity to measure the thickness of my existing clutch plates to check for wear, and found that they were well withing stock tolerance (actually just a bit thicker than the new plate that came with the kit). This matched my expectations, since there is no way a wet clutch should be worn out in 40,000 miles! It is tempting to blame the slipping on the oil I was using, but since it was old-stock Mobile1 red-top, changed only 1,000 miles ago, that doesn't really make sense either. I guess it was just the wussy stock clutch spring. Anyway, I am very happy with the new spring - just a bit more tension noticeable in the hand, but not enough to bother anyone, I think. It does engage a tad bit further out, but that was a very minor change. I have not noticed any jerkiness or change in the smoothness of the engagement from going to the new full sized plate in the inside of the stack. For anyone who does a lot of riding, I would strongly recommend this spring kit now, even before you notice any clutch slipping. It is quite reasonably priced, easy to do, and will probably prevent your ever having any clutch problems for the life of your bike. Goose
  19. We are just back from Santee, rode down and spent two hours in Cayce's garage, Got a new yamaha clutch assembly, basket and the works. Have something quite interesting to tell all of you. So let me get that done first. (the clutch is not the problem) As you know I have been playing around with a thicker oil. This has helped, not as hoped for, but has helped, but at the same time Cayce my motorcycle mechanic and old fishing pal, has been busy obtaining a new clutch assembly for me. I have also paid him in kind with a brand new air impact wrench and a set of metric 1/2 inch drive sockets. It only took him about an hour and a half to switch to the new clutch assembly, and this is the interesting thing. Some of you have already stated that even after changing out the clutch assembly your whine really did not go away, it just moved to a different rpm. Moved the sound so to speak, made it more tolerable. So as both of us are always quite curious to find an answer, here it is. With the clutch and main assembly removed, and a plastic bag taped over the opening to stop oil from flying around, we fired Cricket up! Even with the clutch totally removed, there is that characteristic whine sound of the actual motor working. It varies from non existent at idle to where you can hear it as you vary the throttle up to about 2000 rpm. We did not romp on it, but have determined it is not the clutch causing the problem. What is happening is this particular motor has a specific sound, a resonance, a particular harmonic sound if you will, this new clutch assembly has a slightly different size and it moves the harmonics to a lower rpm level. This is why some of you have stated that the whine did not go away it just moved. More on this in a minute. With everything back in place and the new assembly all installed and everything properly torqued, and after getting a lecture on not to be putting any straight 50 weight motor oil in the assembly, we again changed the filter, and put in exactly this time 125 ounce of total volume of 20w50 Mobil One, with 12.5 ounces of this being Lucas Oil additive. This works out to 3.906 quarts. Yamaha recommends 3.91 quarts. We are close, prefer to work with even numbers. Yes this volume with filter will totally close over the sight glass when sitting still. But with the motor running it is perfectly between the proper marks on the sight glass. So we have decided although the manual does not state so, the oil should be observed while the motor is running. (This again is just our observation) So going down to Santee with my original oil mix in the Motor and gear box, it does run somewhat more quiet, especially in the higher range of the gear rpm. Coming back, yep we still have the whine but it has as others have stated, moved. But with the oil and lucas , and the different assembly, it totally is non existent at certain times and gear rpm. Results are like as follows: In the lower gears and lower rpm, honestly there is not one iota of change. At low town speeds, 30 to 45 or 50 mph, the whine is still there. But again let me stress, it is not the clutch, this has been being mis-diagnosed for a long time, why I do not know, just has been is all. The motor and gear drive has a particular resonance that is unique to it, it varies with rpm. But as you increase speed it gets better and better!!. At 60 mph in 4th gear it is gone, all you can hear is the slight sound of the motor and you really have to listen to hear this, you begin to hear the whoosh of the wind and the quiet low rumble of the stock pipes. (I never could hear that at high speed before) as you push it on up to 65 mph and shift into 5th gear and take it on up to 70 mph the sound is completely gone, at 80 it does not return, it is a joy to listen to the motor work at that speed and hear the bike run. However as you shift between 4th and 5th gears and if you do not power it on up to 70 right away, if you dawdle , the whine will come back......until you get above 70 again. What is happening is you are dropping to a lower rpm, and allowing the resonance to return. I hope this explains more thoroughly what is the real cause of the whine, and to those who find it objectionable, a means to run the bike in a manner that will resolve most of it. No at lower rpm, and speeds it does not go away, and honestly I do not think it ever will. This is just a characteristic of the motor. For whatever design reason, and combination of a lot of things, it has this characteristic sound. By using a heavier oil, we improved the original problem by I would say about 10 percent. By moving the rpm range up with the new clutch assembly, it has improved in the low rpm range only slightly , but is dramatic in the high end rpm range of the gears. If you run 60 in 4th and not be running 25 to 30 in 4th, and the bike will do it easy, it has the power, but move the rpm range up, the whine will just fade out at this speed and rpm range. We have not changed the rear end, do not intend to, but some have said this has also helped. This does the exact same thing, causes you to run a little more rpm in each gear to obtain the same speed, therefore keeping you more in the power band. Does this help anyone? I am done playing with it, I was doing this as I was just totally curious and fascinated with this thing. I will continue to run 20w50 as this helps some, no does not cure it, but does quiet the motor some. I do not feel the so called whine will ever totally diss-appear , but if kept in the right rpm range, it can be almost eliminated totally at higher speeds. In fact if I did not have stock exhaust, I would not be able to hear it at all, and another thing. I have noticed some of the resonance is worse at low speeds, like in an alley way, between or next to a big truck. Bottom line , and my honest opinion. All big bikes have some motor noise, all of them(I will agree Honda is the quietest) this one has its own particular sound, I do not find it objectionable myself. I have gotten used to it some I suppose, but coming home, it was not at all bad. It would go completely way at any speed above 60 mph, as long as you did not lug the motor and kept the rpm up. We love the new venture, we are running 5psi in the front shocks, and 25 psi in the back one, she runs straight, strong and true. We will run the wheels off this one and get another in five years. I have ran a lot of big bikes, cruisers like this included and none have the response and comfort all put into one like this one does. Coming home, we could talk to each other, and hear, we do not use the intercom , or even turn the radio on, riding a bike is about getting out, listening to the motor, enjoying the bubble of the pipes as you use the gears to down-shift and slow around the corner. We could not hear like this before either, if this helps illustrate the difference. To us Cricket is 99 percent......nothing is perfect, we like her just fine. Respectfully Kit
  20. 15% off MSRP Galfer 10% off MSRP EBC Misc. other discounts including Barnett cables, bleeders & fluids. Carry brake lines, clutch lines, throttle cables, clutch cables, brake rotors, brake pads, and other brake related products to make your bike perform better! Visit site @ cyclebrakes.com Request your forum membership discount with quote.
  21. I have a 2000 royal star venture and the clutch is slipping in 4th and 5th gear. When you get on the gas real hard. Changed clutch fluid. And it's still slipping. I have about 65,000 on the bike. Don't ride that hard. And no passenger (she rides her own) Where should I start with the spring plate or clutch disc. thanks Michael
  22. As many of you know, I try to offer the highest quality parts at the best prices and combine them into my "KITS" to make the install easier. I do all of the brain work and you enjoy the benefits. I am now offering a "Kit" for First Gens. and Second Gens. (I didn't forget you guys!) that will replace the stock clutch spring with a VMAX clutch spring, AND a new FULL SIZED Clutch Disc to replace the "Wimpy" half Disc that is in the rear of the clutch pack, as well as a brand new Yamaha Clutch Cover Gasket. As usual, I am shipping these Clutch Upgrade Kits for free and the price is $67.00 to your door! Check the price on the PCW kit to find out what a deal this is. These kits come with written instructions and a link to the thread that explains the install, WITH PICS! The kits are different between the First Gens. and Second Gens. So be sure to order the right kit for your scoot. If you have questions or are not sure what parts you need, PLEASE feel free to PM me. Thanks for your time and good luck with your project, Earl If you have a First Gen. MKII VR (1986 to 1993) Here is a link to the ad: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2644/cat/500 If you have a Second Gen. RSV or RSTD here is a link to the ad: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2651
  23. went to prep the bike to trailer to maint day in Tomball, Tx and what did i find? green fluid on the clutch cover and an open hole on the valve jug. tell me if i have guessed correctly and a freeze plug has blown out. the green stuff is anti freez (that didn't work). then i guess i will need a freeze plug. how do you install a new one? I don't know what is going on with my bike, but if all "junk" comes in three's, then i should be clear by now. 1 rear tire flat - new one bought and installed 2 clutch shifter problem - in process 3 freeze plug - in learning curve. thanks
  24. I am going to replace my clutch. I know they are not that expensive, but do I have to replace the steel plates as well as the friction plates? Is Barnett much better? I am just planning to go with stock. Thanks, Fred
  25. Do you have to drain the oil first before you take the cover off?
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