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  1. I got the posts and write-ups here on the site about greasing the splines and dampers under the circlip on the rear wheel. I have it all torn down here while the hurricane is overhead. I got Honda moly 60 lube. While in here lubing it, should I go ahead and pull the driveshaft so I can moly the driveshaft and u-joint? My '87 has 87,000 miles on it and I bet the shaft has never been serviced... Thanks to all!
  2. Does anyone know how to deal with the gear shaft when removing the stator cover from a 1983 yamaha venture. How do you remove the gear shaft in the bottom right and corner to take the stator cover off? Pulling hard doesn't seem to be the option because I am going to to damage the rubber boot from the shifter linkage.
  3. So I read the instruction on replacing the Shift Shaft Seal in the library; I also read the post on it in the forum from last April. In the Library it talks about major work, in the post it talks about pulling the seal with a hook and driving in the new one with a block of wood (or other tools would work as well) without removing the shaft. Anyone got experience or advice to offer?
  4. Rear tire went flat the other day so I put the jack underneath and Proceeded to pull the rear tire and wheel from the bike which I have done many times before as I have owned 5 different Ventures from 1963 to the current 1999. Took the 4 nuts that hold the rear drive shaft and removed it. Replaced the rear tire and reinstalled the drive shaft the same way I have always done it. Put everything back together and now the trans is locked in neutral can not shift to any other gear. Does anybody any idea what I might have done wrong and how to fix it. Any ideas would be great Thanks
  5. Has this every happened to anyone before? This one has me a bit perplexed. My 85VR, the output shaft to which the drive axle yoke bolts on to the engine (left side of middle gearbox just behind rubber boot) retaining bolt snapped clean off laying in boot. The only indication I had, that sent me looking was a recent oil leak on the left side. It most likely happened somewhere during my recent 4000km trip, probably on the way back. Can't remember anything taking place except I came back loaded up a bit heavier than going down. Looks like a winter job and might as well pick up the second ge
  6. I'm hearing a clicking sound from the rear end when I slow for a traffic light or stop sign. Checked the oil and it's full. Should I pull the drive shaft and check it? She's a 2006 with 22,000 miles.
  7. Any one know if the handlebar riser on a 2nd gen is a one piece or two piece item? I do not see any appearance of it being a stud threaded into the upper body, if it is it has to be countersunk I need to either turn down the stud on the riser or drill out the hole on the 1st gen triple trees I am using on the Hybrid project in order to get the 2nd gen bars on the 1st gen triple tree. Only about 0.030" difference, but it is a non-standard hole size in the 2nd gen triple tree, 0.550". There is enough shaft size that it could be turned down to fit and not get into the threads on shaft.
  8. This morning I was in the middle of replacing my clutch bearing on my 86 engine in my 83 Venture. I took the entire clutch basket out, which is a very good thing. On the very back of the clutch basket there is a gear, it drives a plastic gear on a keyed shaft going through the case. a screw had broken that holds the retaining piece for the shaft, so it was floating. On the other side of the case, where there is a gear on the other end of the shaft, that gear meshes with a plastic gear that drives the oil pump. that plastic gear was stripped. So my engines been running without oil sup
  9. The new RSTD, ( well new 3 months ago ) just turned 5900 miles. I put the narrow E3 on the front yesterday, and took out for test ride. Yes!! it is better handling, then the OEM Bridgestone. Today, I installed the new Rear E3. and greesed the drive shaft, and rear spline. And yes, it does feel better with the E3 on the rear. So my point here is to confirm all the past comments I have read about changeing the OEM tires on the 2nd Gen. Handles better, and feels more like a 1st Gen Also, the Rear Bridgestone, would have been bald at about 7,000 miles, But decided to remove it today.
  10. Today I was working on the bike and thought back to my first shaft manipulation. I was much younger then and it took me about an hour to manipulate my first shaft encounter. WOW was I pooped!!! Well today im a bit older but wiser and as I was manipulating my shaft it was all over in 45 seconds!! I was aiming blind into the dark abyss and before you know it, I was done!! Just think, one day I may not be able to manipulate my shaft ever again!! Well, at least its coated pretty good with Honda Moly 60 now. Should last a long time. Wait, what were you all thinking???? I was greasing my drivesha
  11. I have the final drive off right now, how do you remove the shaft from the drive unit ? I removed the snap ring but it is still in there. What's the secret to getting it off, the manual is no help. /
  12. I post this for those that may be interested and for those who offered thoughts about a cure. I had posted here a while back about noise in the final of my 650. After 2 months and a ring gear bearing, wheel bearings, new drive shaft, and coupling gear, the noise was still there. So today, after removing the drive shaft, I took out the retaining ring that holds the input shaft and bearings in the final housing. Upon doing so, the cage of the roller bearing fell out. The 7 rivets that hold the cage together, inside the race, thus keeping all the bearing balls seperated and spaced, were
  13. I have a 2006 RSV. Yesterday, when I went to downshift for the toll booth, I found I had no shifter. It was laying on the foot board. I stopped and slipped it back on to its pivot shaft and got home fine. My question is... What holds it on the shaft? The shaft has a groove machined in it all the around about half way on its length. But I see nothing on the shift lever that indicates how it is held on???? Thank you in advance CG
  14. Hi. I owned a Venture XVZ12 1983 and the odometer is not working. I put it apart and find out the gears are worn out on the primary shaft. As I don’t think it is repairable, is anybody who has a spare working speedometer unit wants to sell? The shaft I refer to is the one left of the pen on the picture. Thanks.
  15. Well, I was doing some regular maintenance on QuickSilver the other day, just getting ready for the Ohio Carnival next week, and while I had the rear wheel off to change the tire I figured it was about time to finally check the drive shaft for lube. I know some folks here think this needs to be done every two weeks or so , but not me! I haven't pulled the drive shaft even once in 80,000 miles, and from what I saw, there really wasn't much need to do it now. There was not a ton of grease in there, but enough. It was clear that Yamaha used a moly grease when they put it together, and ther
  16. So I'm trying to re-mount my R/R that fell of the other day. (I would copy the link to my previous post and pics but I haven't figured out how to do that yet) The bracket that the exhaust hanger mounts to, as well as the R/R, is slightly bent now and I'm not sure if the forward mount for the R/R is correct. So my question(s) is... Does the front of the R/R mount to bolt that also secures the fuel pump and is the R/R suppose to touch the drive shaft housing at all, cuz mine is. I still need to straighten the exhaust hanger bracket to properly secure the rear portion of the R/R but it s
  17. Ok, Got the bike up and got the pumpkin off. Splines to the u-joint aren't completely dry, but, not much grease on them. Next question is how much pressure should it take to pull the drive shaft out of the pinion?
  18. After taking the long way home from work last night my brakes felt a little funny. While inspecting the rear brake pads, which I noticed are non-existent, I saw what I think is the R/R laying against the drive shaft housing and the frame. After pulling the left side panel and the pass. foot rest mounting bracket I disconnected the two wire bundles and tried to pull the R/R out. It was still partially attached by one bolt to the bracket that holds the rear exhaust hanger but only barely hanging on. It was not attached all to the front but the bolt was still there? When I first bought
  19. Well, I found my oil leak. It's leaking right at the boot where the drive shaft and u-joint meet. I need to reseal the output shaft. I was looking at the parts diagram for the middle drive gear and I can't seem to find which seals I need. I see the crush washer and spacer, do they consider that the shaft gasket?
  20. My good friend, Cowboy, has a 2001 Yamaha 1600. He is starting to have some slippage in the clutch. I went on a search on the internet and found the Service Manual for his bike as well as a great write up on changing out the clutch springs, clutch disk and oil pump gear. (On some of the older 1600’s there was a weakness in the oil pump gear and many folks swapped them out when they did the clutch springs.) My friend looked at everything I sent him, including a website to get the parts he would need. He traded emails with the parts manufacturer with some technical questions he had and the direc
  21. I finally got the air collars off after soaking in WD40 for about 36 hours. The forks slid out OK. I made a tool that allowed me to disassemble my forks using an eight inch bolt with the nut welded on the end, a couple of extensions, a 15/16" socket, and a little tape. I had to get the dimensions for this bolt from two different threads. It seems we have a guy on here that wants to describe bolts by their shaft size For those others that are sometimes lost (like me), the bolt that fits is 5/8" shaft x 15/16" head. Now I am trying to re-assemble the forks and the bottom bolt will not
  22. Well, I installed a new shock on the back of my 1st gen. That went well. I also decided to grease the splines on the drive shaft while I was there, now low and behold I have an oil leak at the rubber boot which according to the parts diagram looks like the drive shaft seal right before the u-joint. Anybody have any insight on the replacement of that seal? Also, my twinkie has started leaking. I'm sure a lot of curse words (Even some I may have to make up) will be used. I also have a little leak by the clutch slave cylinder or stator cover, not 100% sure yet. Any help would be greatly ap
  23. Headlight adjuster knob? I forgot to secure mine on the shaft a few days ago and today I discovered it was gone. Whoops. Come on Dingy, I know you've got one.
  24. while I was taking the left cover off the engine to get to the burnt stator, the smallest (top left) and middle size gears jumped out too. I have managed to replace them into their designated places but am not sure if they, or their shaft, might have turned a bit before I got them back on. Are these, in any way, timing or otherwise sensitive to their exact rotational position? Looks they might simply be used by the started to drive the main shaft... but not sure. I've done timing on cars with gears, chains, cogged belts, etc and the rotation of the gears is ABSOLUTELY important... is it
  25. Last fall my '86 developed a whine coming from the rear tire area, I checked it out as best as I could and decided that the inside wheel bearing by the final drive was probably shot. So this spring I got a new set of bearings and replaced them, lubed & greased up the clutch hub and changed the oil in the final drive and made sure the backlash was OK. The oil from the pumpkin was VERY black but there was only 1 very small piece of metal on the magnet & I did not find anything in the bottom of the drain pan. I got it together tonight & just got back from a test ride and am fru
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