dna9656

Do you have the manual? If so follow the instructions there in, (if you have the proper and correct tools) or take the wheel to a dealer or a knowledgeable motorcycle mechanic. I have 1983 wheels on hand. Please keep me informed.

You can get a manually operated tire changing machines on Amazon.com and you'll "make money" (the machines will pay for themselves the first time you change the second tire) the first time you change 2 tires. Harbor Freight has a M/C tire balancer that works, it'll pay for itself after 2 tires as well maybe 4 tires. This is when you can change your own tires you can now spend what you paid some one else to do on better tires or more beer!

Sure justification for following the owner's manual concerning inspectying your bike before each ride. If that were a car's tire I'd say you have bad shocks. That would be a severe case of cupping. CT? Circuit Tester? Cannibals Tanks? OH CAR TIRES! Car tires are no way designed to have their side walls on the road as are MC tires. I don't know what car tire you could use on a standard Venture wheel, maybe a Model A tire or some front tires off a Dragster car. Dang bro! inspect them tires!

I think Freebird is going to move this to a new post as it deals with carbs and not exhaust pipes but anyway. When you re-assemble the 4 separate carbs to create ONE unit of carbs place all the carbs on a FLAT surface THEN connect the carbs together in to one unit. This way the bottom of the carbs will all be in the same geographic plane; like the intakes are. It will be easier to install the unit of 4 carbs this way. You have to re-install them the same way you took them out.

Not my first choice as i have to lift the bike, but it seems that's what I'm going to have to do....

So the new seal arrived Friday (last) but we signed for a house, had a daughter get married, attened 2 wedding connected dinners, traveled to the ends of the world and we're beat. I got the old seal off with a knife, the new seal has a band of metal on it, so it presses in place, I saw no such band of metal on the old one so maybe it was bonded. In any event here it is... comments welcome. I thought it fit right next to the gear but it doesn't. I looked at the pics posted here and the positioning looks good, I test fit the saft to the final drive gear and it is where it belongs. So all that remails is installation. Waiting on other parts now.

These pics are from the same bike, it's on the H/F lift and (right now) the only bike I can gets parts off of as the other 2 in the garage one is a parts bike and it's jammed in the corner with a bunch of crap in front of it. I didin't see any rash, like it bottomed out, I did notice a little pin prick rust.

I will be posting pics from my (5 bikes) parts bikes later today.

It's NOT differential as there is only ONE WHEEL. Yamaha calls it a "Final Drive Gear". You don't need a differential when there is only one wheel. Yes, it is a ring and pinion (like a diff uses) buy there re no spider gears, posi or other in there.

That's a heck of a way to find out they are open but then if they weren't you'd know right away anyway....

You want to trailer with a 250cc bike? I wouldn't, the bike is too light, the tail is going to wag the dog. Just IMHO.

But so far as I know we're talking about Ventures and venture Royale, not Royal Star Ventures ;maybe this ia a WAY different bike, maybe it isn't and maybe it makes no difference, I really and honestly don't know. I do know that tires for the Ventures (83 to 93) use the same tires but there are different load ratings amongst the choices to make, the stronger the tire the more money you spend. Were I to tow I think is would be wise to use the strongest rear tire (at least the rear) available.

This is one of 2 reasons tires have weight capacity, you can get tires that fit our bikes but you have to watch the load (weight) limit on the tire, especially if you're going to tow! This where I get confused, I have a hitch on my bike, I like the option it gives me, but I need a recommendation for a weight limit; Marcal's comment is a very big help to me as it gives me an idea of how to figure out my enigma!

The seal now in place is on so tightly ON I wonder if it's bonded (glued) in place. I know I CAN remove it one way or another but I will get the new seal before doing so. Thanks for the reminder to be sure to clean out the oil holes inside the "cup". Is there a way to do an ops check on those gear lube ports you mention; like filling the drive with lube and positioning it as it were mounted on the bike and see if the gear lube weeps through the holes? At first I thought about lightly greasing the teeth but I think I'll just cover them in lube and install it. As I rtecall cleaning the cup on the final drive gear was a lot harder to do than it should have been making me think it was greased (well) but the person doing the work didn't know much about THESE bikes or bikes in general; you all will remember the pics of the inside of the forks I posted showed that the forks were not re-assembled correctly. I have found other signs of oddly performed maintenance. Thanks a LOT!

Thanks Rick!