videoarizona

I have the Scorpion as well. Nice helmet. But yes, Do wear ear plugs. Etymotic Research ear buds. Isolation and music. Thank you!

As usual... Well done. BUT... Inquiring minds want to know what is the quietist modular you've come across? D

I too went with a wire. BUT, I added a "Y" connector under the front fairing that splits the Aux input into 2 sources. I then added XM radio and Garmin gps. The gps had an sd card slot. I loaded that with a couple of thousand oldies from my collection. So now I have radio, tape deck, XM and the gps all available to listen to.

Thank you!

The main fuel line was replaced before I bought the scoot... as the P.O. moved the fuel filter to under tank. But... Cheap and easy to check again! That said...I now wonder if all the line was replaced?

Final update: Finally got back up to Phoenix where the RSV is. Went over this morning, and put the ignition switch back in. She fired right up! So the problem was the two contacts in the main switch that tell the igniter to work. The solder joints had broken internally. A quick jolt of a hot soldering gun took care of problem. I'm still getting overflow out of one carb on left side. Only at idle and only when first run....after I turn off choke and she idles for a few minutes. Will start to stumble then overflow will appear on ground. Once she warms up, the problem doesn'

My 89 runs Shinkos just fine. The Tourmaster 230s. My RSV has a 777 in front and a 230 in rear. My 777HD in the rear got a nail so all we could find to replace at @cowpuc's home town was the 230. Still running fine after 3 years. BTW, I learned a great deal from Puc about changing tires! He's good!

Also check the ground of the horn by your right foot.

Congrats! That's so nice to hear.....now just keep it up (so to speak). Keep that lady Smiling and Happy! Ride more! LOL!

I use to do that all the time with my bicycle wheel spokes! Forgot all about that trick! Thanks @cowpuc!! There were times after a rough ride in the woods, I could play a tune on those spokes. Poor things! LOL!

Thanks, Ron. Hopefully I won't need it. UPDATE: Again, the switch fought me every which way. Took an electric jack hammer(kidding) and a drill to get the other 2 screws out, to get to the switch assembly. Finally got it apart. The contact were clean. On both sides! Contact were nice and shiny. Not bad for 16 years. Meter time. Wait a minute... No continuity between 2 contacts and their wire ends! Brought out the large soldering gun. Zapped them both. Continuity! Put switch back together. There now is continuity between the 2 little wires that I didn't have before. T

Good article, Neil! Guess I need to add that gadget to my Christmas list for this year. I can see lots of uses for it.... Thanks!

Nancy made mine. Excellent!

Oh... Instead of drilling out the 2 bolts holding the switch to the frame, it would have been much easier to use a small cold chisel and cut a groove across the bolt head. It's relatively soft. Then use a big screwdriver and back the bolts out. Drilling took a couple of different size bits and lots of work. I was afraid of screwing up the switch body so took my time. You can also use the groove you just made to pop off each side of the bolt head by tapping sideways on it. Then reach underneath with a needle nose and turn the bolt out. Either way, you need to get enough cleara

Afternoon Ben. BTW, before I forget... Happy Birthday in a couple of weeks! I've been studying that schematic for a few days now and follow everything you posted. I started on the other end, making sure the contacts worked at the clutch and sidestand. Then moved to the ignition switch. I have no continuity between the yellow/blue and black/blue. They feed the ignition/ignitor circuits. I do have continuity at the main 2 power. So I've concluded (hopefully correctly) that without continuity from those 2 circuits, the motor will spin but never fire since the igniter isn't g