videoarizona

And a late Happy Thanksgiving to all from Arizona!

Done.

Squirly on road surfaces for me, has always been tire pressure and/or tire wear. Different manufacturers tires also respond weirdly to road surface issues. Best I've found so far are Shinko 777HDs. 38lbs front. 40lbs rear. 5lbs air in front. 40lbs air in rear. Single rider, 3/4 full side storage(both).

If you haven't removed the carbs yet, let me say that it's not that hard at all! I did it twice... With nothing more than reading the posts from guys who have done it on this site. It's just time consuming. I think it took me 2 hours first time. Stopping to take notes and pictures so I could get it back together. When I got the carbs out, I thought "that really isn't that hard". Just saying...

Crossing fingers the person who has come forward works out the way you wish. I found this site late, but having met you and so many others from here....I have come to love my friends here! Such good people.. and.... This is the only site I've found where positive human values are evident with all who live here! It's a pleasure to know you.... and all of the Venture riders! Prayers Up for your health, Don!

Prayers and thoughts of best wishes to you, Don. Crossing fingers at well! Get the BMW and ride, my friend. Ride!

I'd take the carbs off and check the floats. Left side is real rich and that can easily be float settings on left side carbs. To add to that, the float seats may be dirty from sitting and allowing to much fuel into bowl. Or not allowing float to move properly. Regardless, go over 2 left carbs with a fine toothed comb ( so to speak)

If memory serves, that plug is tied into another circuit and can't handle much current. I used it to trigger a relay that powered my stuff. With a relay, you can power just about anything....

That's a good deal!!

If memory serves, DPR8EA-9 is the correct part number. Yes you need to change those plugs. I ran iridiums in my 89 and changed them every year. I run same in my 05 RSV and due to low mileage... only change them every 2 years. The V4 does go through plugs. The iridium plug number is similar to above... But not sure.... It's been 2 years!

Oil level no more than 1/2 way up sight glass. Float levels will change whether you are running rich or lean. I don't understand that but know it does.

My 89 had O rings on the coil side of the wire. The cap then screwed down on the O ring... Making a good seal. I too ran 5k ohm caps for 7 years with no issues. Had good healthy spark.

If you ever find out who, let me know... I'll be happy to go with you Lessons need to be learned the hard way.... And I'm a good teacher.....

Very sad.... Prayers Up to the family. Going to miss you, John...

Coming out of Little Rock 5 years ago... And was heading northeast on 167/67.... At walnut Ridge I turned east on 412. Started looking for gas. None around. On fumes I came across Ms. Addies. Small restaurant with a gas island on the right. And it was open! Got gas. Ate lunch. Cute little place and a life saver if you happen to be in the area.

I used fiberglass cloth and epoxy. My first step though is a soldering iron, ABS pieces and some labor. I melt the crack edges...tack weld them with heat. Add some melted ABS at the ends for stress relief. Then overlay fiberglass cloth with epoxy. I used epoxy over Plastifix only because I always have some around for the boat.

Stearing. It's my first thought. But the bushings in the swing arm may be worn. Check the torque on the rear end as well ..

I don't want to take any $$ away from members... But this will do in a pinch. @cowpuc engineered this wood block arrangement at his house when I got a flat tire coming out of Chicago heading his way. It worked fine. And we were able to swap out the tire. Or should I say, Cowpuc did the swapping!! I learned! Miss you, Bro!

Interesting. Agreed that air flow can be an issue.

Ronnie, Sorry to see this late. Crossing fingers your Florida trip goes well That said, I've never seen my rear end get that hot. Did you align the rear drive using axle before tightening the 4 nuts on the pumpkin? Is the washer by the rear brake mount in the right place? Just throwing out guesses here? A hot bearing usually means things are too tight. 🤞 David

Rode through U.S. 60 in Phx on a Friday pm? Yikes! Lots of idiots have moved in from California and brought their awful driving habits with them... Not even I will do that. Lol.

Old post but I'm going to reply. Long post: The problem with our speakers is 3 fold. 1. Amp is weak. Maybe 10 watts per channel rms. 2. Speakers are 4 inch. To small/cheap to really put out decent sound. 3. Speaker enclosure is, in reality, non existent. Speakers require power to be able to accurately move the voice coil and speaker cone. There are seriously good speakers that are 4 inch(think recording studio monitors), but we don't have the power to drive them properly. Nor do we have to enclosure to dampen the cones. Without those two things, we could easily blow a speaker by throwing to much garbage at it. It simply won't work well. If we had a tad more room in the fairing speaker enclosure, we could add fiberglass to help dampen the air flow .. Giving the speaker cone some resistance... Allowing for higher volume without distortion. But we don't. We could tear out the back of the abs behind the speaker and build an exposure, but no room. Bottom line.... You can add an amplifier. It will give you more volume. But more bass? No way. Plus you will get to enjoy more distortion as well. You can add an amplifier and seriously good 4 inch speakers($$$) but the enclosure is going to work against you. Will you gain something? Yea ... But not as much as you should. It's that worth it? That's your call The best solution is a good pair of ear buds. I bought an adapter that plugs in between my helmet and the intercom/speaker cord. I then plug in my ear bud to that. The only issues with ear buds is a. Fitting them inside helmet. b. Finding good ones that also have passive noise reduction to keep out air flow and real world noise. If you don't wear a helmet then (b) is a must. To protect your hearing as well as allow you to actually hear the music! These are about the best of both worlds when it comes to noise isolation and frequency response. The issue is whether they will fit under your helmet comfortably. I have an older version of them. Been using for 15 years. Went cross country.... Had no hearing issues, wasn't tired from wind blasting, comfortable all day! They were, and still are, the very best.... Short of having customized ear buds like musicians do ($$$). https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1475383-REG/etymotic_research_er2xr_extended_response_earphones.html?ap=y&smp=ba_f1_ll&srsltid=AR57-fAMjHpFkAZczDGIyUkS9eSbuH-HhILamNPpvkLKoZIYaRG6-jtW5kA Lastly, there is an alternative. Cheaper. But still decent sound and noise reduction if you make them properly. Just search Internet. Available from really cheap to expensive ear bud monitors, custom made. You mold them to your ears. Add to this, you can get them with bluetooth. A tiny bluetooth transmitter plugged into to our system will give you all day wireless audio. Or, add a Garmen type gps plugged in and get turn by turn direction's, music, xm radio, tape deck and am/fm radio... All in one! So many choices! Hope this helps... David

No.

Mine has done that since day 1. Cold blooded beastie I haven't concerned myself with it, just ride slow till she warms up. Only a few minutes for me...