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Dizzle223

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Personal Information

  • Name
    Brian

location

  • Location
    Longview, United States

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  • City
    Longview

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Bike Year and Model
    1986 Venture Royale
  1. The sun has been shining that past few days and I finally found time to go for a short ride. The temps were only in the mid 50's but it was a bright and beautiful trip up to Mt. St. Helens! Hoping this weather sticks around for a while
  2. They did Clunk when I let them go... I will be gone next week but when I get back I'll have the carbs sync'd again and let you know how it goes. Brian
  3. Good question.... I did pull all of the fuel enrichment valves off and clean them while the carbs were off the bike. I checked last night to make sure they all were completely in when the choke was off and they looked good. B.
  4. I checked the cables by moving the linkage manually as suggested. Everything looked good and it did return to idle. One thing I did notice was if I gave a quick burst of throttle it would return to idle fairly quickly but if I held the rpm's at about 2500 for about 10 seconds and let off it would just stay there. It looked like the linkage was all going "home" though??? I did try and use the idle adjustment knob to correct the issue (not a dumb question I've been known to want to replace pistons cuz my tires were low ) I actually had a mechanic go through the carbs when I had them off the bike so unfortunately I can't be too sure about the float levels or the rubber plugs in the carb jet block. I'll have to read the manual to see if can tell the levels. When I took the air box off the bike would idle but I wasn't able to give it any throttle without it bogging down and wanting to die so I couldn't see if the sliders were moving properly. I did check them manually and they seemed to move just fine though. And as suggested, I will first have the carbs re-sync'd. Hopefully that will help narrow down the issue... Or fix it! Thanks to all for chiming in. I really appreciate your help. Brian
  5. Carl, First of all silly question time... What is YICS? Guess I should know but :/ Carbs are seated securely and I pulled the Jason Mod plugging the ports as you suggested (Leaving #2 with the restrictor to the thingy up high) Still seems a little slow to come down from idle but it is better. Funny you should mention how the sync went.... I couldn't have described the mech's look any better "that's the best I can do" was written all over his face! I've never sync'd carbs myself but I had just about memorized Skydoc's tech write up on how to do it so I knew they should have been a little more synchronized. I really don't think the cables are hanging up but I will double check just to make sure...thanks for the advice Trader. I'm going to check it again in the morning when the bike is cold. It seems to get worse as the temp goes up??? Perhaps after removing the Jason Mod they should be sync'd again. Thanks for the help... I'll keep you posted Brian
  6. Well I read the post regarding the Jason Mod and it indeed looks like that is what the PO did. I would be more inclined to think that was the issue if the bike had idled that way prior to going through the carbs but before it was just fine... I have continued to read several threads regarding the high/fast idle and vacuum leaks seem to be the primary culprit. Can someone advise how many vacuum lines I should be looking for... so far I only see a couple. Also, I sprayed the manifolds with WD40 while the bike was running and no change. And... thanks for the info! Brian
  7. I just got my bike back together after having the carbs gone though. When I took the bike to have the carbs sync'd the mechanic asked me why there were vacuum hoses connecting the manifolds on each side rather that having three of them capped. (See pics below) I started combing the VR site and found that three of the ports SHOULD be capped. (I learn something new everyday ) Prior to having the carbs sync'd the bike would idle at 2500 rpm when warm and slowly fall to 1000 rpm after about 30 seconds to a minute. After the sync it does the same thing... idles about 2500 rpm then slowly falls to about 1000 rpm. Also, I did replace the diaphragms when the carbs were off. Why would the PO connect the manifolds with vacuum hoses and would this effect the idle issue? Thanks! Brian
  8. Thanks guys... I ended up pulling the carbs and removing each valve. With a little TLC they are working as they should. Happy riding! Brian
  9. So I just had my carbs done at a local shop. Got them back on the bike and noticed the choke lever didn't feel right. Upon closer inspection I saw 2 of the choke valves (enrichment valves) would not move and the other 2 were sticky. I loosened the linkage on the 2 that were not moving and was able to get the bike running but they are still stuck. Was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what can I do to free these sticking valves. I've posted a picture of the part if that helps.... Thanks! Brian
  10. Thanks everyone!!!! My "friend" should have remembered that... But he sure is grateful for the help Brian
  11. Soooo... Let's say you took you're bike apart 4 months ago and after getting it back together yesterday you had this part left over... Where could I tell my "friend" that part goes Thanks! Brian
  12. Well no luck finding the bolts in town. I had to order them on-line so they should be here in a few days. Now if I can just remember how they go back together...
  13. Thanks for the info everyone! Based on your posts and pics I was able to figure out what I was dealing with. (hadn't seen the inside of the forks before) Anywho... I was able to drill out the head of the hex bolt and separate the tubes. The rest of the bolt came out with no resistance at all. Now to find replacement bolts and copper washers in town so I can put this project to rest. Thanks again for all of your help!!!!!!!!! Brian
  14. It is the bolt that is up inside the lower tube... Hope this helps. I tried heating the bolt and using an impact driver but to no avail...
  15. So... While trying to replace my fork seals and install progressives I managed to strip the 10mm bolt head up inside the lower fork tube. Thought about having a machine shop drill it out but I thought I would come here first and ask... Does anyone have a set of front forks for my 86 that they are willing to part with. I have the new seals and progressives ready to install I can even send the old forks as cores if someone is more skilled than I Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Brian
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