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  1. Ok, I pulled the rear a while wheel a while back and cleaned up the hub splines and when I was working on that I notice a tick in the rear bearings. I ordered the bearings, seals and a new o-ring and now I'm into the replacement. A local shop offered to install the bearings for $5.00 per side and I figured fair enough. Save me some time. When I took the wheel in today they took one look at it and said they could not do that type of set up. At least they were honest about it. So here I am looking at my rear wheel. The manual is vauge in the statement to push the spacer aside and drive o
  2. 83 Venture Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement (This document in Word format attached)83 Venture-Rear-Wheel-Bearings-Replacement.docx. My apologies for the formatting below - outlines don't come out very well in plain text. See the Word doc. I was experiencing some rear noise and vibration when leaning to the left and it was becoming progressively worse. I had never done the ‘Venture Rear Wheel Service” as documented in the forum (Ozlander 09-17-2015), so I decided to undertake that. I took the original write-up, and broke it down into numbered steps so I could check each one off as I went (I jus
  3. 2007 Second Gen with 100000km on it. I have purchased new front and rear wheel bearings/seals and new swing arm bearings/seals. Plan on replacing all of them this winter. Does anyone have any experience or tips on how to remove them. Thanks in advance. Jim
  4. I'm working on a '92 Royale and I will be removing the rear wheel to put on a new tire. I was thinking this would be a good time to change the wheel bearing (odometer reads 27,000+ but I think it's 127,000+). I'm having a hard time figuring out what exactly to order. On the fiche, I see a collar (90387-203H7-00), cylindrical bearing (93317-32635-00) and a bearing (93306-30417-00). Do I need all three of these parts? I can't find the collar. Do I need something else? What usually gets changed, if anything? Or, is the rear wheel bearing not something that usually gets changed and I just
  5. Since Outcast was stuck in SC with a front wheel bearing gone bad, it got me to thinking. Wouldn't it be a good thing if we could do some research and see if parts could be found that would work in a pinch such as this. I'm thinking most bearings could be cross matched with something from the automotive line or even heavy equipment house. Is there some way to use the oem part number and find out what the actual dimensions are for a given bearing, such as the front wheel bearing without having to dismantle someone's bike to measure the bearing? I think this could turn out to be a good thing if
  6. I think I will me replacing my front wheel bearing. (I feel a buzzing in the handlebars & a whirring sound when I lean into turns even thought the bearings are not sloppy) So I have to buy a puller. I know the Tusk bearing remover set would work 8mmm- 31mm but it's $90 and a tool I don't use often SO.... My question is will this Harbor Freight set work as well. It's Standard sizes not metric & since IDK the size of the front bearing I figure I will ask here. http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html
  7. Im rebuilding the rear wheel with all new bearings, spacers and seals. I have a question on the proper positioning of a spacer flange on the disc brake side of the wheel so maybe someone here who has had to rebuild their wheel and/or someone who has removed the bearings on that side can answer this. Or maybe someone who has a rear wheel laying around with the bearings removed can chime in too. The spacer flange is a stamped steel spacer with one side flat and one side hollow. It goes into the wheel just behind the wheel bearing and seats into a cut-out in the axle opening, followed by the
  8. I m wondering if a bearing is bad or the clutch basket is wobbling. I replaced the pressure plate bearing but the noise is still there. The noise is a whirring sound almost like something is wobbling coming from the gear area loudest at 3000 rpm, stops when I pull the clutch in. At idle a slight rumble goes away when I pull the clutch in. I get on acceleration a rumble/vibration coming from the gear area. The noise is really starting to bother me. The carbs have been synced. Any ideas?
  9. Hi gang allow me to introduce myself, I just bought a new for me 1991 Venture Royale so my wife and I could go touring 2 up. The Venture only has 72,000km so my thought was uhm just broken in. My other steed is a BMW 1989 k100rt with 125,000 km, my wife just doesn't find it comfortable for long hauls so its gonna have to go. Anyhow back to the subject at hand. There is a whiney drone coming from the engine area. The sound occurs while riding, and occurs when I release the throttle and last until the engine revs are very low, it happens all the time at any speed and in all gears. I suspect some
  10. My steering head has a center-detent that just gets worse as the miles pile on. Can I knock the bearing and race out, rotate and put it back in?
  11. I post this for those that may be interested and for those who offered thoughts about a cure. I had posted here a while back about noise in the final of my 650. After 2 months and a ring gear bearing, wheel bearings, new drive shaft, and coupling gear, the noise was still there. So today, after removing the drive shaft, I took out the retaining ring that holds the input shaft and bearings in the final housing. Upon doing so, the cage of the roller bearing fell out. The 7 rivets that hold the cage together, inside the race, thus keeping all the bearing balls seperated and spaced, were
  12. Which way does this spacer go on the rear wheel? This spacer goes against the rear wheel bearing and is the seal surface the seal rides against. There is a raised shoulder on one side while the other is flat. Pictures of both are attached. I am assuming the raised part goes against the bearing since it is the same diameter are the inner race. And yes, those are the balls from the rear wheel bearing. Not good. RR
  13. Please soneone, what are the bearing numbers for the front wheel, '07 RSV. Not Yamaha #, SKF or any other good bearing as in C3. Is 6004.2rs.C3 the right one? tew47:fingers-crossed-emo
  14. Putting a new 150/80-16 Venom on the front and I feel a tight spot on both wheel bearings. I am going to replace them. I have 2 questions. A search here did not help me much. (1) How do you get the bearings out ? With the inner spacer I see no way to use a standard bearing puller or a drift punch to knock em out, no lip to drive them out. (2) Sourcing the bearing and seal? Yamaha part or from a bearing supply ? Aftermarket part numbers?
  15. Does anybody know which type of grease that Yammie uses in their left rear wheel bearing? It's reasonably clear on a new bearing, so I'd suspect that it's lithium complex grease but..... Frank
  16. Well, I guess I am done with doing all thr things I wanted to do to the bike so now it is time to start with the trailer. I have already rewired and replaced all the lights. Repacked the bearing so now it is time to slap a paint job on the thing to match my 2000 MM. Let's hope it turns out.
  17. The rear wheel roller (left) bearing inner race (aka collar) won't pull out easily from the bearing, and I'd like to grease that bearing. Do you usually have to push it or tap it out from the right side? I'd like to get it out without damaging the bearing. Thanks, Frank D.
  18. While taking off my forks to get Progressive springs installed, I checked the bearings and found the lower cup showing wear/damage lines. Since I could feel the line with my fingernail, I believe it is time to replace these bearings (probably only the lower needs replaced, but I am replacing both while in there). I took the lower tree with the lower bearing cone (inner race) to the dealer along with my forks. They are doing the spring replacement since I do not have the proper tools to remove and install the seals. They are going to remove the bottom bearing for me. However, I am look
  19. Ok Now that I am basically road ready, I want to tighten the front end. The Class is working perfect but regardless of the air pressure the when driving over manholds & bumps the front kinda clunks. So I'm going to redo the front end. 1. New Progressive Springs 2. New Neck Bearings - the neck bearing are tight but since I will have the handlebars off why not do the bearings I need a good source for Springs. & good = less expensive. Also are Lytle Racing Group or Air Balls Racing Neck bearing good? If not which do you recommend? After this is done it should be time for long
  20. Last fall my '86 developed a whine coming from the rear tire area, I checked it out as best as I could and decided that the inside wheel bearing by the final drive was probably shot. So this spring I got a new set of bearings and replaced them, lubed & greased up the clutch hub and changed the oil in the final drive and made sure the backlash was OK. The oil from the pumpkin was VERY black but there was only 1 very small piece of metal on the magnet & I did not find anything in the bottom of the drain pan. I got it together tonight & just got back from a test ride and am fru
  21. Well, I've noticed the front end on my bike has been clunking while going over bumps for a bit now. I attributed it to loose neck bearings, and was partially right because it had a washy feeling as well. Took the top bearing out and it was loose as anything, the rollers would sit inside the cage, not good. So I installed a new top bearing and just left the bottom bearing on the steer shaft because it felt and looked good, just lubed it up real well and slid the whole assembly back on. It tightened up my steering nicely but still have the noise. With me off the bike, and the full 17psi in
  22. OK, got this noise from the rear like a wheel bearing going down, so I put her on a lift, spin the tire and its got a spot, same place every turn, like a flat spot on bearing. So I pull the axle, then spin the tire and quite as a mouse, so I take the wheel in to the shop and have both side wheel bearing and seals replaced. Came back home put it all back together, SAME THING, with axle in and while riding same noise, axle out no noise. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks 2step
  23. ok, so without getting into the brand too much, what are the recommendations for front tire size? which vendor? if theres a deal, i may get the rear. so which size rear also? should i change the front bearing with it? not sure if its ever been changed. 32k
  24. I have removed the right side oil seal, bearing and collar. I removed the drive pin assembly and oil seal on the left side. The bearing on the left side appears to be removed toward the right, is this correct and what do you use to drive it out. I have a Tusk bearing puller but this bearing cannot be remove toward the left due to burrs inside the wheel. The only way it could have been installed is through the right side.:think:
  25. I got the lower steering bearing pressed on, and the bearing races in. I can start putting everything back together again. Obviously I have to pack the bearings...but other than that is there ANYTHING I should be aware of or is it pretty much just do the reverse of what I did to take it apart?
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