camos

Can't say for certain if this is your problem but active files cannot be deleted from a hard drive. It is quite possible there is a bad file in your temporary Internet cache that is always active, think unauthorized tracking. This is how to clear the temp Internet files in Edge: If that doesn't work try running a scandisk either from Safe Mode or even better schedule a scandisk for the next boot. That should fix any broken files before Win 10 loads. If that doesn't work it gets a little more complicated. Using Windows Explorer find the folder that hold the Temporary Internet Files. Write down the path that is shown in the address bar at the top. Reboot to a command prompt in the same menu that Safe Mode can be activated from. Type: CD "the path you previously wrote down" - press Enter Type: dir - press Enter (This should give you a list of all files in the temp Internet directory) If you are in the right directory you should see the folders and files you saw when in Win 10. You want to be sure you are in the right directory before entering the following command because everything in the directory will be deleted, never to be recovered. delete *.* - press Enter Good luck Venturing into the Tech Sector.

Quite so, understanding how and why something works is far better but by following simple instructions it isn't necessary to know the why of it. Getting air in the MC pump is something that can easily happen and clearing that air is an absolute necessity before attempting to bleed the system. This should not be necessary to say but if there is air in the pump it will not move fluid.

There is virtually no difference between the systems on a Gen 1 and a Gen 2. Yes the handlebars are different and the Gen 1 bars can be adjusted but that should not cause a significant difference to how the method I use will work. It works the same on both my 89 VR and on my 90 VR. Turning the bars to right lock gets the MC more or less level. Even if the MC is not exactly level the only difference is a bit less fluid capacity in it. An extreme angle will quickly uncover the relief valve port and or the intake port which will make the job impossible. I have been bleeding the hydraulics the same way for over 10 years and can pretty much do it on autopilot so a variance of 5 or 10 minutes is insignificant for a beginner. The fact that you were successful bleeding your Gen 2 and somewhat less so your Gen 1 should indicate that you did something wrong with the Gen 1. That said, it is still better than the hours and hours or days and days others have reported for doing this simple task. A short time ago you stated you think that pumping the lever slowly is better than pumping it fast. It is not and that makes me wonder what else you did differently. To that point, everyone who has attempted to bleed these systems must have noticed how quickly air will rise in the fluid. Remember, you are pumping from the top down so the slower you pump the higher up the air will move which adds up to two steps forward and one step back.

I am amazed whenever I read posts like this. If you know how to bleed a hydraulic system it will take only about 5 minutes to get all the air out. I have posted how to do it numerous times but apparently to no avail. Bleeding the clutch and the right front brake are the two easiest things to do on a Venture. About equal to checking the tire pressure mostly because getting up and down gets more and more difficult as the years go by.

My 90 VR had that clunk when crossing the curb bump onto my driveway. Greasing and setting the head bearings fixed it.

Right, your leading link forks do the same as a raked triple tree does but are the better choice to fit your Mad Max style Venture. Yah never know, I might do something with my XV1100 when the time comes that my Venture is too big and heavy for me. Trouble is the Virago just can't handle my grocery trips to Costco. I'll be in a bit of a pickle when that time comes.

A long time ago I was planning on putting some extended forks on my XV 1100 but became Venturized before it happened. I had decided the simplest way to go was to use a 3 to 5 degree raked triple tree to reconfigure the steering dynamics. My research indicated that system should work well. I'm pretty sure the Yamaha Stryker came from the factory with a 3 degree rake but that was quite a while after I gave up on the idea. Often regret not doing it.

Is rooting very difficult/hazardous? I have a low end Motorola that does not have much storage space. I put in a memory card formatted for internal storage but very little gets put on it and I keep running low on space for apps. Most of the apps I have on the phone are google crap that I never use so it would be helpful to get rid of them. I would venture to say there are no Android boxes that are not made in China. There are a few Like the Rasberry that appear to be not built in China but have Chinese parts so is there really any difference? My personal opinion is that because electronics for the most part will break in 90 days of use or work more or less forever, just take your chances and go for the feature/price point that seems to be the best bang for the buck. This unit has every feature I want with a medium price. It's made in China. It has more RAM and more storage than than the two boxes I currently have. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07PVY6M8P/?coliid=I26XJ7FQT1YX7L&colid=1V9QZKMJ2NJ2L&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it This one has the Amlogic S905 chip rather than the Amlogic S912. I've read that the S912 is the better choice but have never seen a reason why. My first Android box had the S905 and it worked just fine for 5 or 6 or 7 years, can't remember, it was retired because Kodi was upgraded over time and needed a newer version of Android to work. I regard these things as cheap enough to be considered throw away items. Do get a Bluetooth or similar keyboard to use along with the supplied remote. My preference is one with a backlit keyboard and uses batteries rather than a built in battery and charger. Makes for one less thing to wear out and I use rechargeable AA batteries instead. I've never had satellite internet but would expect the various supply methods would work transparently to your home network devices. I have cable broadband internet with a dual wifi capable modem upstairs and have a separate dual wifi router connected by cable downstairs to widen the range. My phone can connect anywhere on my lot. Cable is faster than wifi but the Android box upstairs is connected by wifi and the one downstairs is connected by cable and they both work the same so they are well within the parameters of the Android boxes.

My preferred source for these things is amazon.ca mostly because shipping is free with no border hassles. I was checking out Android boxes for a friend a couple of weeks ago and found what I thought was a pretty good one for about $70 CDN. Prices are probably lower on amazon.com but I can dig up a link or two if you would like. I don't think Android boxes have Google Services installed. Google Play is a good place to get a browser for them and it is also easier to get the Kodi app there than installing it from the Kodi site. These boxes are generally not geo-located so you can watch videos from other countries without getting blocked. I'm guessing that means they don't need to be rooted like a phone might be.

The M8S is just one brand of Android box and there is not that much difference between all of them. Roku is most likely just another version of an Android box that has been specifically set up to run the Roku app. It will also run the Netflix app and it has other video apps including a YouTube app that is very good. Not a lot different from what comes with a Smart TV. Android boxes come with a bunch of apps built in and other apps available from Google Play, just like for Android phones. I put Chrome on my Android box and use that to watch the news streaming in HD. The good thing about having a Roku or a plain Android box is that it is not tied into the TV so if there is a problem with that end of things it is not necessary to throw away a perfectly good TV to get video streaming back. These video boxes are not much different from a PC in the way they can provide video streaming. The big advantage over the PC is the cost is so much less. A decent graphic card for a PC costs about twice what the whole Android box costs with all the necessities such as Wifi, good graphics and a decent processor built into a 5" square package. For a few years I ran Linux on an old obsolescent PC that eventually needed a new graphics card because the resolution of the videos available kept increasing. A new graphics card was going to cost twice what an Android box could be purchased for. So it's not cost effective to upgrade old PC hardware to run video. A friend of mine started with Roku and had a Roku account for a couple of years. It worked great until she had watched all the videos they had that she liked. Then she got a Netflix account and the same thing happened after a year. There is new stuff getting put up but not that much and even less when filtered through what you like to watch. She uses the Android with Exodus the most for movies and only uses the YouTube app on the Roku because it is better than the one on the Android box. Buffering is totally related to the amount of data being streamed and that is mostly affected by the resolution of the video and the speed of your connection. If you can stream video over your PC then you can also stream it over either a Roku or an Android box.

I give a Plus 1 to Android boxes running Kodi and Exodus. A decent one on Amazon will run $60 - $70. As mlgower said, the S912 chip is supposed to be better for running Kodi, however I have been successfully using a couple with the S905 chip for about 7 years and don't have any complaints. The amount of RAM memory is probably just as important. Mine has 2 GB but these days there are boxes with 4 GB available. I have two of them, one is plugged directly into my network and the other is connected by WiFi and both work about the same. You will need a minimum 7 MB/S internet connection and to get that reliably it takes a 15 MB/S account. Otherwise buffering becomes a headache. The down side to getting your video entertainment off the internet is the amount of bandwidth that gets used. Haven't looked lately but I seem to recall using about 300 GB/month.

The forks are different as puc mentioned but they are the same size and are compatible. The MkII forks have a different caliper pattern and better calipers and make a worthy upgrade to the MkI.

Before spending$30 + try this. 24 inches of clear tubing. 1/4 inch thin wall works easiest but 1/4 inch thick wall can be used by boiling the end and opening up with a suitably sized Phillips screwdriver. Loosen the bleeder valve on the caliper, put on the hose and open the bleeder valve. Make sure the hose goes up to form a loop before it goes down to the container. Press the pedal until all air is out and the fluid is clear. Don't let the fluid in the MC get too low or air will be getting back into the system and you will have to start over. Close the bleeder valve and remove the hose. The whole job will take less than 10 minutes. You might just as well do the left front brake line because, after all, they are integrated. Now that you have found out how easy it is to bleed brakes you might just as well do the right front brake. All three brakes can be bled in a half hour or less. The right front brakes and the clutch are the easiest ones to bleed.

Hehehheh, I think you might be the only one who could get away with that mod.

The main problem that created the glare is the angle of the dash. My solution was to pivot the whole dash back so the face was at 90 degrees to my line of sight. There is no way there can be any reflection from the sun because my body is in the way. This had the added benefit of making the trip gauges easier to read. In order to pivot the dash it was necessary to make a couple of spacers to spread the OEM supports. It took quite a bit of fooling around to get it to work but was definitely worth it to me.