ChrisL

With the battery pulled and sitting on a rug (not cement floor) it started at 12.65 and then 12.45 the following day and this morning I think it was 12.38 but I wasn't awake enough to remember what I saw but it was under 12.45v I got this battery in August last year and only rode it for 2 weeks before pulling it for the winter. Not impressed that now I want to use it, it looks like I bought a dud. Probably out of warranty. Thanks for your help

If you can link me to step by step instructions for ignition coil voltage that would be great. I'll check my plugs and boil the water on my pipes this weekend. I'll be running seafoam carb cleaner today.

Would you be so kind as to upload a picture of a 1st generation thumb idle screw as I can't seem to find it

I didn't get notified of all these posts so I ahve a lot of catching up to do folks, thank you for your replies. 4 June PM Didn't think I was going to make it out of CanadianTire parking lot as the engine just barely turned over. Then I got to our gate opened/closed it, opened/closed garage door while the bike sputtered at 500 RMP and a battery dash gauge showing 8-10v Got it in the garage and shut it down immediately and the battery was actually at 12.65v 6 June PM Let the bike sit indoors while the weatherman called for rain Thought I would check the battery and it was 12.15v after sitting 2 days so I have it on 2Amp charge 7 JuneAM will check battery voltage and pour 150ml seafoam in the bike. Have a spare battery in the side bag if I need it. Thought I would sneek in another voltage reading before day's end. After the 2Amp charge I started my day at 12.79v and dash guage showed an even 12v Be the 2nd start the dash guage was showing 13v and by the 3rd start it is showing signs of struggling to start. Will update voltage when I get home tonight

Thank you I didn't know the 1st generation had a thumb screw

I want to thank you for your reply. I concur that the battery voltage is probably a symptom and not the problem. I like the idea of running carb cleaner thru the system to see if it makes a difference. Do they make a fuel additive carb cleaner or do I have to actually spray the carb down? I understand the best would be a rebuild kit but I just want to see if the jets are partially blocked to start with. Once the carb is sounding okay then move on to other checks. I have noticed that the neutral light flickers lightly even when the I increase the RPM at the red lights but I digres.

I decided to make a new post for dead battery as I think I should start with increasing the idle if that is possible on a 1st gen bike. When the bike is idling the RPM is only 500 RPM showing on the dash and when I come to a light my battery gauge drops to 8-10 volts when braking. If I am on level ground I can increase the gas and bring the RPM to 1000-1100 and the gauge shows 12+ volts. When I go to start the bike if it starts in 1 second then all is good but if it takes 3-4 seconds then I may need a boast. Last summer I replaced my battery because of this issue and made it thru the summer. When I stored it over the winter I disconnected my battery up until 3 weeks before riding. I gave it a 2A charge overnight and hooked up the battery. I am making a journal to figure out is it a parasite drain during the night, short/bad ground during the day, or just low RPM when idling. I really hope to increase idling and then go from there: 3 June battery almost died again After 2 hours of sitting 12.39V (8:30PM) Quick start and running check 13.64V 4 June After lasts night start (load) 12.23v (7:30AM) Having a few almost no starts 12.45v (10AM) Will add voltage checks as I followup on posts but does anyone know how to increase my idle on a 1st gen venture? I think years ago it use to be around 1100 RPM but it shows around 500 RPM now on the dash. Thanks Chris

It would appear the leaks have subsided for now. I noticed the clutch fluid is almost grey after a week. I think grey means water has gotten into it but it hasn't seen rain since last year and all this leaking and bleeding i would assume it got filled twice from scratch in the process. Well enough on this thread. I'm going to make another post regarding having a dead battery again and low RPM. See you over there. Thank you again for everyone's help Chris

Yes I replaced both crushed washers then I took the slave off twice (hopefully they aren't that finicky). I did use a torque wrench both times I installed the banjo bolt with washers. Before I replaced the washers I was getting a couple drops of brake fluid and a couple drops of oil. Since I changed the crush washers I get the drips in the same location so I assume they are the same fluids but since I have paper towel down now I can't be positive. I will remove the paper tomorrow to confirm. The inside of my piston wasn't that bad so I took 30 seconds with steel wool to give it a once over. I shouldn't have went up and down but I learned that since reading all the posts. If the piston isn't "honed" properly would that cause it to leak fluid?

I want to thank all the people who chimed into the thread as there is lots of good advise and to my wife who showed lots of patience working alongside myself who was frustrated to no end. I eventually did get the rubber out of the hole by asking my wife to sit and pick away until it was thin enough that I could then pry the inner washer away (please see initial picture if you are wondering what I am talking about). My advice is to never remove that rubber seal around the rod. I put the bottom end back together and managed to burb the bango 5 times in 1 minutes and it would seem to be bled. I did not open the master cylinder. After topping up the oil I sat back and watched as liquid dripped below the slave cylinder and the middle gear case. I have ordered a new middle gear case gasket and washer for the 6 oclock position but it costs $150 for a new clutch slave from the dealer. I wished I would have read trying to rebuild the slave probably wouldn't fix it. Looks like I will have to keep the master cylinder topped up with fluid until a couple more paychecks enter the bank. Once again I want to thank everyone for your words of wisdom. This might sound like a dumb question but to be sure....the washer goes between the middle gear case and the head of the allen key head bolt (meaning on the outside of the middle gear case)?

Things are going south and I don't see a thread replacing the seal around the push rod so I have started a new thread. First I'll share a little history. I found my clutch reservoir to be empty so I assumed it was the clutch slave. I rebuilt the slave and bled the system only to find the clutch handle not pressurizing the system so I decided to replace the seal around the push rod in hopes I can figure out why there is no pressure. I have removed the rod out of the hole, scraped the outer rubber away, and tugged with a dental pick & did what I could with a needle nose. That inner seal just won't come out. Here is a picture of the new seal so you can identify what I am talking about. Any idea how to remove the old seal and how to re pressurize my clutch system (or determine why it won't pressurize)?

Thank you for your wisdom. There are a number of pictures from page 2 of this thread that have pictures from different users. Maybe I'll luck out and a user will upload their picture again as I didn't find any pictures of the piston rebuild other than this thread

This is my first post so hopefully it works. I have rebuilt my slave piston for my 87 Venture 1300CC bike and I can't remember (head injury) which direction the u shaped seal goes back on the piston. I noticed in this thread there are a few comments to images attached but I don't see them. When I click on the user they have lots of images under their profile name. Am I missing something? Thanks