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Found 12 results

  1. I have been a Venture fan for years and finally I recently purchased a used 2000 back in september. The carbs needed to be set up right but I did not want to do the spacer trick to them. My mechanic is designer for many tweaks and jet kits for various bikes so I went to him to talk about what to do. Since there is no true jet kit for the second gen Ventures he took my bike in on his dyno for a little R&D for a true jet kit. After numerous spins on the dyno and different needles he had a needle custom cut with 5 angles. It took the weakness out of the original lean stock set up. So after picking it up I went for a short ride today between raindrops. Road was wet and I am spinning the rear tire like crazy if I twist too much. Granted I have no trunk or bags on but whoa the rear tire let loose easy in lower gears. When I first got the bike back in september the clutch would slip at just a touch of the lever but never under power. Now it slipped with the added power till it warmed up some. Clutch needed replacement anyway and is on the winter to do list. Great pull power in every gear except I could not tell in overdrive only because I was not going fast enough. Need to get it on the highway to properly test that. Patrtial throttle response was greatly improved with instant response at a touch of the throttle. It felt like it pulled almost as hard as my Honda Magnas (12.5 sec 1/4 mile on the Magna) but I will update that when I can run my friend with his Magna. Cold start was pull choke out it starts right up, one minute later push choke in and it runs normally. That was a huge improvement over stock set up as it took a while to run normally before the jet kit. So overall this is a needed improvement for all Venure/Royal Star owners. Stock set up was way too lean. Once I can get some long runs in I will be able to determine gas mileage. I bet it is the same if not better than stock as you don't have to twist the throttle much to get it rolling more. I am also running K&N air filters and NGK Iridium plugs. Ivan knows what he is doing on these as he has many kits for older bikes that work perfect. You should see his cherry collection of 60s-80s 2cycle bikes in his shop. Best 140 bucks you can spend on your Yamaha! http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/xvz1300.htm
  2. I have been playing around with the carb set-up on my VentureMax (1300 engine with Vmax cams and springs). The latest experiment is Vmax needles and .5mm spacers. I have not rode it much with this set-up yet; Needs a little choke for cold starting Idle appears to be lean (surges slightly at idle and pops during deceleration) Pulls smooth and strong from 1500 rpm in second Pulled a little "crisper" from 1500 rpm with stock needles Pulls strong from 3,000 rpm (any gear) Ran it up to 9,000 rpm in second and it wanted to keep going!
  3. I have a gas leak coming out of the drain tube front left next to radiator. Leak only occurs when bike is running. It is an 05 RSV. I have taken the quad carbs completely off, cleaned all the floats and needles....Put it all back together and was going for a ride but again the leak......Any thoughts????
  4. Today during my ongoing 91 VR restoration project, after forks, electrical, coils, carbs., the rear end was my target and everything was peachy until I took out my rear wheel. Surprise, a bunch of metal shavings fell out of the interior of drive, after a moment of panic(thinking of a shot drive), I started to look and clean, the dried out grease and more debris, but I turned my attention to my wheel bearing and got a handful of needles and more shavings. I then took a good look at the spines because they crunched the needles to shavings. After a good cleaning the drive splines seems ok, I guess? Any comments or warnings would be appreciated. Mike
  5. Hi folks.. I had picked up a new carb synch gauge, the four dials one.. And used it on the bike today.. I already have the carb tune with the rods that bounce up and down but the 4 dials gauge came at a super good price so why not. Wow, that was easy to set up and quicker to balance the carbs.. Maybe TOO easy? If I may pose a few questions to those who are experienced with this type of gauge. In regards to the little restrictors, how much do you close these off? They have to be open to a certain amount to let the vacuum do it's job, but too much and the needles bounce like crazy, too little and you wont get an accurate reading.. I did mine where the needles bounce between two indicator points.. to me this seemed like the best amount of bounce to go with? As you can see in the photo, the needles are bouncing pretty well spot on across the board.. When I started they were up and down a few notches but a few turns of the screw driver and everything balanced in nicely. I don't know why I feel this was much easier than the Carb Tune? Did I get this right for the amount of restriction to put on the valves? Cheers
  6. so i was going to do the needle/shim mod @ a year ago and ran into the same prob as 84xj, i just put it back together stock and forgot about it. yesterday i thought id try again and went and got the washers from ace and same problem, the needles had no play in and out, a little side to side but none in and out. i remembered this post and searched for it. my needles do not have any adjustment?!? so looked a little closer and discovered the prob/solution. not all washers will have the exact OD measurement and sure enough the ones from my local ace are too big. i think the area inside the slider that the needle/ clip/ washers fit into is tapered and so it all seems to fit fine at first but when you start to tighten it down there is not enough room for the washers to seat proper. I could feel it when tightening, but was unsure why. i went back and found nylon washers 1 the same thickness as two stainless washers but with an OD just a bit smaller and all works perfect. now there is free play in and out like stock. I did try and slide the slides into the carbs with the stainless washers and i could feel the needles rubbing in and out. dont want to cause alarm but if you dont know if there was free play with the needles id check. and i bet Eds washers are spot on so the carb mod kit he sells would be worth it. attached pic is of a stainless washer STUCK inside the slide. im gonna go for a ride this weekend and enjoy checking the fuel mileage. Attached Thumbnails
  7. I am about to break into the carbs and change my diaphraghms. while I was in there I was going to adjust the needles and do the 1st gen Mk1 version of changing the spacer. I need to know a couple of things. Which way do I adjust the needles? In or out? Second everyone mentions to adjust he mixture screws to 2.5 turns Where are the mixture screws and 2.5 turns from bottomed out or completely loose? Does anyone have detailed information about the carbs? a full step by step details on adjustment? The factory service manual in the tech section has no information at all on carb adjustment or even needle adjustment. only disassembly and rebuild. Thanks!
  8. Hi, Over the 3 years I've owned my 87 VR 1300, I've averaged 36-37 mpg. While this is right in the mid-range of what a bunch of y'all get, I was always perplexed by the 45 or even 50 mpg-ers. FWIW, I've checked all the usual suspects (fuel levels, new diaphragms, pressure sensor working, new plugs & tuneup, etc). I've experimented with up to four 9/16" holes in the airbox lid which did little to nothing. Then I came across 5bikes (Chuck) and his recommendation to lower the carb metering needles, that it runs rich from the factory in the needle range. Hmmm... Well, after some foolin' around, I arrived at the following: - Needles lowered .050". - All extra holes in airbox taped over (didn't run well with needles lowered AND holes open). It's running well and for several tanks now I've averaged 40 mpg with the same driving cycle and style I always do. I pulled one spark plug after these few tanks and found that it's very light gray on the ground electrode, light tan on one side of the insulator, the rest of the insulator is white, and just a bit of black on the end of the threaded portion. Seems about right with the detergents in today's gas. A 10% increase with this adjustment is good, but only half the story. 5bikes gets high 40's on his 1200 but rides almost exclusively country roads and in no hurry either - steady 55-65. I commute to work which is about 1/3 Interstate, the rest mostly suburban / rural roads with a little city. On the Interstate I'm doing 75-90, and other roads I like to accelerate briskly to somewhat over the speed limit (shame, shame). Chuck asked me if I'd run a tank or two slower to see what happens. Thru a supreme effort on my part, I rode the Interstate at 65-70, kept the rural and city roads at or below speed limit and accelerated very gently - for one tank - I couldn't do it any longer :-) The results for that tank? 43 mpg - best I've ever done. So now I'm trying to find a happy medium - a little more spirited so it's more fun, but not as fast as before which will also be better on my driving record. (My current tank, judging by the behavior of the gas gage, will probably end up at 41 or 42.) If I truly ran a tank on just country roads doing 55-65 I'd probably get 45. (It also seems that the 1200's get a little better mpg than 1300's.) I've always heard, and it makes total sense, that driving slower produces better mpg. On one hand I knew my wrist is a wee bit "leaden", but pretty much denied to meself that I was aggresive enough to cause poor mileage. Then I'd read posts here, one says it's all in the wrist, another says their bike gets "40 no matter how they ride". Well, I took numbers, did my best to control the variables, and this is the result. Jeremy
  9. Just experimenting with the carbs. I have a 1990 and installed the original 1983 42.5 pilot jets and 180 air jets. Idled nice a little more power, mileage about 36 mpg at 70 mph and 4000 rpm. Did what 5bikes described to improve mileage lowered needles power was decent and mileage improved to 40-43mpg at 70 mph @ 4000rpm. Just for fun I used the the original 1983 needles which have 5 positions to raise or lower the needles unlike the 1986+ needles which have no adjustments. The 1986+ taper of the needles is less then the 1983-85 needles. Took the 83 needles and raised them to the highest setting its got real nice power but its running rich I can smell it on my clothes, slight stumble on the initial throttle twist then its a rocket, mileage a grand high of 25 mpg. Im gonna now set it to the lowest needle setting (so it sits deeper) and see what results I get. Anyone know if the the actual tube the needle sits in is different from 83-85 to 86-93? Just playing around with this stuff.
  10. Is there a way to access the pilot jets without removing the carbs? I'd like to try richening them up one notch. I was also going to raise the jet needles up and found that there were no adjustment grooves. Do you use washer type shims, or do you need different needles? Thanks, Gary
  11. The hubby and I are taking our 3 sons out to Spearfish/Deadwood for a trip in a couple of weeks!! We don't want to travel interstate (I-90) so we are looking at Hwy 44 south of I-90 . We've never been out there before. Just wondering...has anyone ridden this road in the last year? Is it a decent one (potholes, etc)? Also, have gotten a lot of info off the website as far as where to ride, (Needles, Spearfish Canyon, Custer Park) but anyone have any funky off the beaten path roads or places we should stop. We'll be out there a week and the boy's can't wait. Thanks!
  12. While on a recent tour of the northern United States I experienced a problem that made me think it is time for a carb overhaul or re-build. I have a 1990 VR with 82K miles on it. The question I have is: Is there a carburetor rebuild kit available for these carbs ? If so, where ? This would be a kit containing gaskets, needles, seats, etc. I see some good data on the tech bulletin board about rebuilding the carbs but no mention of where to get parts or if a kit is available. Thanks for the help Red Baron
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