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Red Baron

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About Red Baron

  • Birthday 02/10/1943

Personal Information

  • Name
    Gary L. Ballweber

location

  • Location
    Scappoose, United States

Converted

  • City
    Scappoose

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Interests
    Photography, archery, MC touring, gardening, hunting, build RC airplanes
  • Bike Year and Model
    1990 Yamaha Venture Royale
  1. If you research far enough into the past you will find that the first digital TCI's (1990) had a flaw in the circutry. All 1990 Ventures have this flaw. I replaced mine with a TCI unit from a wrecked 1992 Venture and never had another problem. Any TCI from '91, '92 or '93 will work just fine as the flaw had been fixed. Have a GREAT day. Red Baron
  2. After testing and reassembling I can get no reading greater than the .01 amp. This is my worst fear, an intermittent problem that won't manifest itself in a manner I can identify. I guess this comes under "Oh well". I have started the bike and all works as normal. All I can think to do now is wait for this to happen again. I sincerely thank all of you that responded to my question. IF I ever locate what the cause is I'll share here with you. Thanks again, Red Baron
  3. OK ... FrankD ... thanks for the suggestions. I just checked for amp drain as you suggested and I get .01 reading and it is intermittent. It looks almost like the drain from a ticking clock but the timing is wrong for a clock. What do you suggest I do next ? I suspect this will be a bearcat to find as it seems to be intermittent. Thanks again for the help. Red Baron
  4. Thanks for the response to my dilema. I have already disconnected the R/R, and all other items that are connected to the battery. I reconnected the negative terminal and then used my meter to check voltage between the positive terminal and the wire that connects to the main fuse located on the positive side of the battery. I get 12.8 volts. I have been disconnecting circuit plugs one by one and then checking voltage in this manner. So far, I get 12.8 everytime I check. I am starting to suspect the diode in the starter relay circuit but have not tested to confirm yet. As time is short I will do additional testing during the next few days and let you know what I find. Thanks for the help. Red Baron
  5. After returning home from a 4k tour I have had an experience with some sort of a "short" circuit somewhere in the works. While on tour I had to replace the battery and thought nothing of it as the batt was ten years old. After getting home I parked the scoot and about two weeks later went to ride it and the battery was totally dead. New battery ? Yep ! I took the battery to the vendor and got a new one. Installed it and did a base charge and all was well. Next morning I checked the voltage with my digital volt meter and the battery was down to 12.4 volts. Oh oh, something is not "right". I disconnected the battery, charged it back to full charge and then started hooking it back up. When I hooked up the cables I noticed a tiny spark. What the H...? The key is in the off position and nothing should be drawing current. What could it be ? Any one have any ideas ? The bike is a 1990 Venture. It has a new battery, a new R/R and the stator was replaced about 5000 miles ago. I tried to trace the offending circuit by removing fuses and testing but to no avail. I am now thinking this is what caused me to have to buy a new battery while on tour. Does anyone have any ideas what could be drawing current when the key is in the "off" position ? Thanks for the help. Red Baron
  6. Go to your local hardware store and get a 3/4 x 16 "jam" nut. It may still be too thick but you can grind it down in thickness some and it should work. Just grind on one side so that the other side, the good side, can be used to "seat" against the engine. If you have a friend with a lathe he could cut down the thickness and get a better job. The nut needs to be about 1/4" thick so it doesn't interfer with the oil filter sealing. If it's too thick the oil filter will hit the nut before the "o" ring seal can compress on the seal surface. Good luck, have a GREAT day, ride safe, Red Baron
  7. I too had a similar experience with RIDE ON. I put it in my tires in 2007 prior to a cross country tour. No problems with bike or tires on the tour and I forgot about it being in there. Thirty thousand miles and five years later I needed new tires. What a mess. The RIDE ON had turned into a rock hard glaze type material. I had to scrape with a putty knife and sand with 80 grit to get it loose and cleaned off the wheel. There was a lot of pitting and corrosion and discoloration on the wheel. I finally got it cleaned off well enough to mount a new tire. Luckily the new tire still sealed and holds air just fine. I would never put RIDE ON in my tires again. It may be just fine if you only left it in a year or so, don't know. All I know is that I would recommend against using it in a touring bike tire that iwll be in use for longer than that. Just my two cents, Red Baron
  8. I had that problem once. My wife had inadvertantly pushed the mute button on her controller. I'd check both mute buttons before I did anything else. There should be a barely visible light go off or on when you push the button. Both mutes have to be in the off position for radio and other controls to get full volume. Guess how I know this ? Hope this fixes your dilema. Red Baron:)
  9. I have had issues finding metric taps and dies and achieved very good results on E-Bay. I did a search and found 49 results found for tap m12 1.25 Just go to ebay and type this into the search engine and select all of ebay for the search:301:. Red Baron
  10. I have my Venture apart for maintenance so went and looked at license plate mount. There are two bolts / screws up under near the top of the plate mounting platform near the tail light . One on each side of the plate. Take those two screws out and the whole platform will be able to be bent back for access to the screws that mount the license plate from behind. I can take pictures for you if that would help. Good luck Red Baron
  11. I would be interested. I have a tour planned for early May and was thinking of other tours I might do this coming season. Give us some dates and places to work with. Red Baron
  12. Please put my name on the list for viewing this DVD. I am a firm believer in knowledge being the key to safety. I believe it will make us all safer riders. Thanks, have a GREAT day, Red Baron
  13. I have been using an EMGO air filter for several years. It looks exactly like an OEM filter for about 1/4 the price. Never have had any issues with it. I think I bought it from the Dennis Kirk catalog.
  14. To the two inquiries of where I got the Shindengen regulator / rectifier. I got mine from e-bay. They are listed under "Yamaha R1 regulator". They are standard equipment on late model R1 motorcycles. Just be sure it shows the part number of FHO12AA in the picture. I figured a used one would be just fine as there are no moving parts to go bad and most people don't even know what they do so they haven't been messed with. So ... I bid and got one from e-bay --$80. Another source if you don't want to try used is a place called Roadstercycle. He has them listed as brand new for $115 which is still way cheaper than Yamaha wants. www.roadstercycle.com Hope this helps you find one for a resonable price. The sun is shining here and it's already up to sixty degrees out so I'm going riding. Have a GREAT day ! Red Baron Oregon
  15. To those of you that read my post about replacing the R/R, thanks for your time. I guess I was too late to get in on the group buy deal for the Shindengen R/R's. The good news is that I have replaced my stator with a rebuilt unit from a fellow in Arkansas. Looks just like a new one and functions just like a new one. I figured there's not much that can go wrong or be bad since there are no moving parts. Rewinding a stator is not rocket science. The price was about half a new after market unit. The item I really wanted to know about, the Shindengen FHO12AA regulator / rectifier, has been purchased from another source for a very resonable price. Not as good as the group buy but acceptable. I would like to comment that the new R/R has improved the voltage readings at the battery over what the OEM regulator / rectifier did. I am very pleased with the results. Thanks for all the help and the GREAT suggestions and ideas in this forum. Have a GREAT day ! Red Baron -- Oregon
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