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Showing results for tags 'removing'.
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Is there such a thing as simply removing the cassette and installing a CD in its place?
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Hey everyone! I need some help. I got my '86 Yamaha Venture Royale about 18 months ago. It came with nice floorboards and a heel toe shifter. I figured this was standard equipment. About a week ago, I started home from work and to my dismay, I could only shift into first, neutral and second. I babied it along sidestreets and took my time driving 5 miles. Three more stops, I could only get first and neutral to work. To shorten this story, I discovered that the fitting on the left crankcase cover had broken. Reading on here, I discovered that I could get it welded because the casing is aluminum. I then took to working on removing the left crankcase cover. I have read the service manual, the repair manual and all I could find to get help on removing the left crankcase cover. After getting all the bolts off and discovering other things I need to remove, I found that there are two sets of wires that come from the back of the cover and goes to the flywheel assembly connected inside the crankcase cover. Here are my questions. 1. Do I need to removed the copper coils, the 4-5 screws holding everything in to disconnect the two sets of wires? ( I ask this because the philips screws are tight and I really don't want to remove this if possible so I won't have problems later matching to the flywheel. 2. Is there a simpler way to disconnect the two sets of wires without removing the screws and coils? 3. Is there a diagram somewhere that shows how to disconnect this? (The manual says to remove the electrical connectors like it is a simple switch) 4. Finally, is there much danger of warping or causing some damage to the inner electronics if I leave them inside? (I don't think there is, but maybe someone will have a horror story to change my mind!) I appreciate any help given and hope someone is smarter than I am figuring out how to get this off the bike so I can get it welded. Happy Thanksgiving!
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Im asking my VR family for an intervention here. I have had the bike apart for several weeks now. What started as a simple running of LED pod lights has turned into a fully blown tear stuff down to put it back together thing. Greasing the forks to changing the front tire to pulling the Wagner grill off for some paint work to removing the radiator for a thermostat change to removing the AIS system to schlepping around town to find plugs for the ports to replacing the rear brake canister because of some allegation cracks to, to, to......sheesh, and I havent added one pod light yet!!! And let me add...things in the factory service manual look easy. Too bad they dont tell you that some things are tucked away in some cubbyhole in the frame and you need the patience of a saint (which I sure aint) to access or hands like a smurf to fit in. So, if I ever, and I mean ever post that im going to tear the bike down for some foolish reason, would someone just put me out of my misery real soon..........please..
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Hmmmm..Hate for my first question to be a "stupid" one, but they SAY there's no such thing as a stupid question..I guess you'll have to be the judge..! Anyway; I just purchased a 1986 Yamaha Venture, and got my new plate. Went to change it out, and used the proper tool for removing the retaining screws/bolts, but all they do is turn, i.e. they don't come out. So; my problem is figuring out how to get to the backside so I can hold the nut or whatever is there while I unscrew from the front. I've tried removing luggage, etc., for access, but just can't figure it out..Perhaps the tail light has to be removed? Thanks for any assistance here! -
Where do i find a 2nd gen manual or instructions for removing the fairing on 07 venture? Thanks
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Ok Guys, Looks like I'm running on 2 cylinders.Pulled both caps off left side and no difference in idle. Left side from riders point of view. Pulled battery and box out and can see coils and TCI unit. All the screws are aimed forward so I guess you need to pull the fairing. How difficult is that. Is there anyway to pull the coils and TCI without removing it? Noticed the coils are stacked in pairs towards front, doesn't look like you can get to any of them for testing, but maybe I'm wrong. Hope so. Thanks for any light you can shed on this. Also what are the cylinder numbers and locations?
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How do I get the glue residue off the body panels after removing the pinstripes on a 1st gen?? I used a heat gun to soften pinstripes , then used a putty knife to remove the decal. Then thinner removed the bulk of the residue, but there is still a layer of adhesive the thinner won't touch. I can scrape it with a razor blade. I would rather not have to resort to this as I will end up nicking panels quite a bit, and time consuming. Any ideas ??? Gary
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I finally picked up my next project bike on Saturday. It is a 2003 RSV. Im building a custom bike out of it. It came with a scratch free widshield that i want to put on my 2005 RSV. The only problem is there is writing on it from the salvag yard. It appears like a wax pen or something like that. I am wondering if anyone has had any experience removing the writing without damaging the screen. I have tried soapy water with no luck. I have been using BON AMI glass cleaner and it is slowly removing the yellow marks but has little effect on the orange writing. Any thoughts?
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Hello. My 86 YVR 1300cc needs new plugs. Wats yer recomendation for a decent plug n plug gap? Has 48,000 miles on it. Anything I should know bout removing old ones before I do it? I mean there isnt anything funky Ill run into is there? Tnx, RR:confused07:
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Whats the proper way of removing the 4 retangular engine side covers. They are the ones that go right on the outside of each Cylinders. I have one of those hand held impact drivers but am a bit concerned about the transfer of the impact from the hammer to the cylinder walls.
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I noticed on this site that alot of folks replace their own tires. My other bike, kaw/ 1500 needs new tires and want to replace front and rear in the next few weeks. I'm mechaniclly inclined ,wrenched on cars for over twenty years and have the tools to do so. My question is, being that these tires are tube type is there anything I need to do as far as installing new tubes, such as not getting them pinched ect. and was told to use babay power to help in the installation. I plan on removing the wheels myself and removing and installing the tubes and tires. I have done car tires in the past, but all were tubeless. I guess my main concern is can I do this myself, or just remove the wheels and take them to the dealer or a tire shop and have them do the tires? Also a concern is the safety factor, never done this before and with only two wheels under me I don't want any issues. I will be purchasing a m/c jack in the next few days to do this, and recommendatios? Sorry for so many questions, but any suggestions would help me decide, your thoughts? Thanks in advance...
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It has come to my notice that some jobs on our much beloved (and very fast) classic Ventures, just are not hard enough already. You 2nd Generation folk may skip the rest of this thread. Your bikes take longer to complete their journeys, so y'all don't have time for the extra work we need to indulge in! So easy are they that folk are feeling the need to invent a few steps not envisioned when the Workshop Manual was written. So let's examine a few common problems: Removing the Spark Plugs .... Indeed it is fortunate that this operation rarely has to be performed because it is next to impossible without first removing the engine. Rarely has it been my misfortune to encounter spark plugs so difficult to remove, if you discount the one right around the back of the motor of my Ford Windstar. Whose idea was a V4 anyway? So .... engine beautifully balanced on that upturned bucket I found in my shop, and the plugs come out in a jiffy. Why didn't Yamaha think of that? Changing the oil .... This one is dumb. Surely you changed it when you had the engine out to remove the spark plugs! No? Well then you need a hoist. Having removed the idiotic piece of plastic hiding the oil filler from all but the most "investigative" of our membership, and having somehow found just the right sized wrench that will get off the filler cap, because it was too easy to put it somewhere ... you know ... reachable, then all you need do now is hoist the bike, spin it over and the oil will run right out. Or you could remove the drain plug. Nah! Too easy. Shimming the Valves .... This one is tricky. The Workshop Manual describes the process, because it's a Workshop Manual, and that is it's reason for being. It's a simple process although even I will admit that "shims and buckets" sounds more like a Harry Potter spell than a mechanical procedure. There is a fiddly, and very expensive tiny bit of metal that needs inserting where no metal should ever be inserted. For God's sake please don't forget to remove it when you are done! Getting hold of one is hard. It involves a PM to Skydoc_17, and a promise to return it. Thanks Earl Much easier to remove the cams, having carefully measured all the gaps. Oops! Where did that chain go? There are reasons to remove cams, but shimming the valves is not a good one unless, of course, there are other reasons why you may want to spend more time in the shop. Removing the rear wheel .... Here we have a situation where the very best in "Shade Tree Mechanics" do actually beat the pants off the manual. Start by removing the front wheel. Yes, you heard right, to remove the rear wheel one first removes the front. I know, it's crazy. Having removed the front wheel, and tied the center stand to prevent it flipping up, you can then lower the bike onto it's fork ends tipping the back end up so high it gets a permanent snow covering. Handy! Rear wheel is now a no brainer. There endeth the lesson. Meet here next week for "How to adjust the drive chain" ps ... Don't get upset, my tongue is firmly attached to the inside of my cheek!
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trying to upload she did not like the burgandy so went brown i will leave it till next year then i will touch it up i made a promise that she can paint all the plastic i will let her do the fairings as well when i get to removing them and fixing the tabs and cracks she needs more exp on tapeing the stuff LOL but for a 13 year old girl shes learning
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Rear wheel removal Gen 1 I need new tires for my bike. After reading many threads today on the different procedures, I came up with a process that I thought would work well for me. Basically I pulled the axle on the rear wheel, used a floor jack and removed the front wheel then finished removing the rear wheel. Everything went according to plan. I think one of the best threads that I read told me to strap the center stand. Great idea! Thanks to everyone that posts!! Ray http://www.raymondstacy.com/nowheels.jpg -
i know its been discussed here many times but''''' it has been stated here tha the ant. for the cb shold be on the riders left well the one on my 06rsv is on the right and seems to work great, the 10"s is on the riders left and the cb basically does noot work from looking at the cables i can see any dfference btwen the teo without removing everythin nd tracing the cables isthere any way to decide whick cable is wich, the fm radio apears to wrk fine i'm lost ??? thanks for any help steve
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I got a couple new projects starting up and sending some parts to the platers to have the old chrome stripped so I can clean them up and paint them. The thing is I also have some parts that are plastic that were "chromed" and I need to remove that also. Any suggestions on removing that without damaging the plastic? Other than a lot of scraping and sanding? Thanks Mike
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OK...after a brief scare with my windshield (my wife threw it away and took it to the dumpster, but was able to recover it)...I decided to go ahead and do some things to to the bike today. I have several questions!! First thing was removing the fairing, I did notice that both tabs were broken and I know this has been discussed a lot, but if left broken, do they really pose any danger...or should I DEFINITELY have the fairing replaced? When removing the fairing, I also noticed that one of the grommets was missing helps stabilize and rattle proof the fairing...is that a standard size grommet or is there a special part number? Replacing the lamp with the Silverstar IS A PAIN...even with the fairing split!! Also the BIG rubber cover has threads in it...but it doesn't screw on does it. Also, even with the fairing split, I had a hard time getting my hand up through there...removing the adjustment knob did help. Maybe I am missing something, but any further tips would be greatly appreciate. Is there a better tape to use besides electrical tape that is not as effected by HEAT and COLD...the adhesive doesn't seem to keep the connections tight. I also was trying to track down why my running lamps no longer worked...when they installed them they used the OLD fashioned glass 10A fuse. I am going to replace that with chip kind, is that what most of you have done? And finally, I installed the F4 Customs Windshield. WOW...very nice. VERY clear too. Sitting behind it is almost like sitting on the bike without a shield at all...it's that clear. I am very pleased. So, I'm looking forward to some answers, thoughts, suggestions and tips. Wally -
Does any one have a set of stock horns they want to part with? I'm removing my steble and want to put both stocks back on.
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SkyKing needs a spacer for his driving lites so he can remove the fairing with out removing his D/Ls . anybody know where to buy one ? Thom
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i bought new autolite platinum plugs for my ranger today. the old plugs have 97,000 mi. on them. it is a 3 litre v-6. the plugs are easy to get to from above , but i hear all kinds of horror stories about breaking plugs off removing the old ones. is this a major issue to worry about? the heads are cast iron. i haven't changed plugs in a vehical in many years.
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Has anyone added a cd changer to their 1st Gen WITHOUT removing any of the stock audio stuff? I was thinking about mounting a cd changer in the trunk only if there was some way of wiring the audio into the present system without removing anything and installing it so that if I wanted, I could stilll use any of the original audio. I would just hate to ruin the OEM set-up. Has anyone performed this already? If you have, I'd love to hear from ya.
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Im new so I guess they are called fairing grills. Im thinking these intake spaces would be a good place for driving/marker lights. After removing the screws, I found something else is holding them. Can somebody tell me how they come out? Thanks ! 1988 VR -
well im sure there is a link some where for this? but being not to good at the computer age. i have no idea where to look? so im going to ask the good pepole here.. im working on the venture doing tires rotor and brakes. well front tire came of nice. but. do you have to remove the back fender and the right muffler? it looks like the axle wont come out with out removing the muffler?
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First of all, let me say that I love My 2007 RSV,but I changed my spark plugs for the first time yesterday, and it wound up being a 2 hour job. It took longer than it does to do my 1996 Mazda V-6 pick up. After removing the seat and draining and removing the tank and the dog bone braces on the front of the engine,it is hard to get enough slack in the coil wires to get them out of the holes to be able to get to the spark plugs.This may be easy for some of you,but it was a pain in the rump for me. I learned a few tricks, so maybe it will go a little faster next time. It took an hour and 45 minutes to take off enough parts to get at the plugs and reassemble and 15 minutes to change the plugs.What a pain!
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Ok, I've looked and I can't seem to find the thread, sorry if I missed it. Has anybody got instructions on removing the seat from a MKII VR? I've dug around on the seat and I haven't seen anything that looks like it would remove it.
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