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Showing results for tags 'washers'.
Found 20 results
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It was probably about a year ago that I picked up a used trunk spoiler. I think I'm going to finally install it and have a question for any of you that have added the Yamaha spoiler to your trunks. It came with rubber washers and flat washers. Does the rubber washer go on top of the trunk or do both go inside? -
Hi guys. I have searched and read different threads about the install of new diaphragms. I bought a set for my 87 and hope to install them this weekend. I pulled one of the old ones out and have "practiced" the removal and reinstall with the old one. ' Looks like using a spray lubricant. What kind won't hurt the rubber ? How do you know if the inside seal that goes between the two "washers" is seated properly ? I was using the blunt end of two nail clippers to carefully separate the washers and then a small screw driver to push the rubber in between them. I am afraid the screwdriver might rip the rubber. Any specific info from your installation would be helpful. Thanks Bill
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Hi folks, anyone know where to find the chrome truss head screws for the chin, side radiator covers and the two very special windshield garnish screws for my '87 first gen? Previous owner hacked mine into rusty little blobs of steel. I've tried fender washers and the like but nothing seems to be as good as the screws that were made to fit. Maybe someone has a stash in a coffee can they would part with? Thanks in advance! -
A waterproof solution for those annoying washers. Gary
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So, last fall I changed the carb. diaphragms out in the 86. Found one with a slight crimp on the edge but no holes or problems. It was more of a preventative measure. Did a carb synch and set the idle circuits using the idle rpm drop method. Bike felt smooth and good power. However, my fuel mileage dropped from 40 commuting to 37. i run about 60-70 miles a day from work to home. The measured mpg is cold start with choke and all speeds. I could smell the exhaust as being a bit rich. Tried adjusting the idle screws to no avail. Fast forward to maintenence day. I have a set of needle shim washers and a color tune with me. MikeZ and I changed out the washers and set the synch again. It looked pretty good. I could also tell that there was a difference by the choke lever settings. The colortune needs modification to work on the venture. So, did not touch the idle settings. On the way back to San Antonio I got 37 heading into a wind. I used almost a gallon less fuel than Mike did on his 1989. Now, it had more luggage on board and did have a bit of an afterfire. Next week it was back to commuting to work. Checked several tanks of fuel and found I am up to 41mpg! And the rich smell at idle is gone. So my suspicion is that the replacement diaphragm are not only a bit stiffer than the originals, but possibly a bit thicker. Plug color is good. Next stop is figuring out a good way to use the colortune on the V-4. JB -
Now I know what you guys are talking about when you say you "miss" second gear. I just finished doing the second gear repair on my 83 and wow, it's a real treat being able to get on the throttle hard in second without having to worry about it popping out even under mild acceleration. All in all the repair went well but I do admit I was a bit baffled when I had the engine ready to come out and just could not figure out which direction it needed to go to get out of the frame. After considerable trial and error, I found that the front of the engine has to come up and then forward to clear the output shaft all while giving it a twist to the right. Likewise, going back in, the procedure in reverse worked great. Once on the bench the cases split apart nicely and the problem was the worn thrust washers. While I had it opened up took advange of all the recommendations on this site and replaced all the o-rings and seals that had been breached and I had the gears undercut to prevent slippage under load. Naturally, I replaced the thrust washers, the washer that goes behind them and shift fork #1. While I was not sure that my shift fork was bent, I replaced it anyway and I noticed that the new one was a beefier design. The parts, including all the gaskets came to about $175.00. I also installed the clutch kit from Skydoc_17 while I had it open, another $70.00 Reassembly was cut and dry with the only tricky part being the application of the Yamabond sealant and getting the shifting forks to line up when mating the cases. Once the engine was back in the frame (remember, go in high) I completed the installation and fired it up. After assuring that there were no leaks and everything was up to operating temperature, I took it for a quick spin and the gears worked perfectly. Thanks to all on this site for their wealth of information, help and support. I've added some photos from the build. 1. New thrust washers installed 2. Shift fork #1 3. Ready for lower case 4. Ready for lower case 5. Worn out thrust washers
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I need help finding replacements for the four hard rubber round washers that mount between the luggage rack and the trunk lid on an 08 RSV. I removed the rack to do some power polishing and the washers seemed to have grown legs and walked away. I have checked every local hardware store and those they have are either too small/large, or wrong strength and curl up on edges when tightened. Local dealer says I will most likely have to order another rack just to get the washers. I don't think so! Any help is greatly appreciated. -
Is this the part number I need for my '85? The boat place and BB does not show it for '85 and earlier. I need two hard and two soft washers. I can't readh the fische for mine. 12R-14105-00-00 BB has it but shows three listings and a boat place has it for cheaper. Boat place - http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-12R-14105-00-00.html BB - http://www.bikebandit.com/search-products?q=12R+14105+00+00&ch=1&sc=9&br=yamaha#productlist -
Here is a link to a new style of lockwasher we are looking at at work. They are better than split washers and nylock nuts. The salesperson has a vibration stand that shows how clamping force goes down with vibration using the other types of locking devices. These Nord-Lock washers actually increase clamping force when they loosen. I have not used them on my bike as of yet but plan on it when Fastenal starts stocking them at work. http://www.nord-lock.com/
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so i was going to do the needle/shim mod @ a year ago and ran into the same prob as 84xj, i just put it back together stock and forgot about it. yesterday i thought id try again and went and got the washers from ace and same problem, the needles had no play in and out, a little side to side but none in and out. i remembered this post and searched for it. my needles do not have any adjustment?!? so looked a little closer and discovered the prob/solution. not all washers will have the exact OD measurement and sure enough the ones from my local ace are too big. i think the area inside the slider that the needle/ clip/ washers fit into is tapered and so it all seems to fit fine at first but when you start to tighten it down there is not enough room for the washers to seat proper. I could feel it when tightening, but was unsure why. i went back and found nylon washers 1 the same thickness as two stainless washers but with an OD just a bit smaller and all works perfect. now there is free play in and out like stock. I did try and slide the slides into the carbs with the stainless washers and i could feel the needles rubbing in and out. dont want to cause alarm but if you dont know if there was free play with the needles id check. and i bet Eds washers are spot on so the carb mod kit he sells would be worth it. attached pic is of a stainless washer STUCK inside the slide. im gonna go for a ride this weekend and enjoy checking the fuel mileage. Attached Thumbnails
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Ok.....I still have one thing that irks me about the looks of my bike. The tops of the dash panels where they mount to the stays. Both of mine are damaged at that spot only. Otherwise they are in fine shape but the right side has both holes broken through and pieces missing. The left side only has one damaged. Since I got the bike I have used chrome washers with bib washers under them to cover the damaged area but would like to do something to cover the whole top of panel with an angled lip to drop down to cover the area above the speakers. As there is somewhat of a curvature there a simple bend with flat material won't work cleanly. I like to use thin gauge SS sheet of possible to somewhat match the chrome trim pieces on the sides of the fairing. I could live with a painted material if it come to that. Spacers would be attached to the back to fit into the recess in the plastic to avoid bending the trim into the hole. Any suggestion? I know I can't be the only one with this damage. Mike -
I posted this morning asking for help locating the part number for some bolts that came out of my fairing. I looked at the drawing on the yamaha site but couldn't tell which bolts I needed but Squidley replied promtly along with some other members. I just went to my local dealer with the drawing to order the bolts. There are six bolts for the fairing but even thought I only need three I thought I would order six in case I lost one in the future. Besides, it can't cost much for a few bolts. I also ordered six washers that go with the bolts and I also orderd a bolt that goes in the right cowling where you get to the fuse box. The parts clerk entered the order and said that will be $47.50. I said hey I don't want the gold ones just the regular ones and I asked how can they be so much. He said the washers were $4.50 each. I told him to cancel the order for the washers and just give me the bolts. It was $8.50 for the bolts. That is too much but I can stand to spend that much but $47.50? When these bolts come in I'm going to ace hardware and getting bolts the same size as the ones I ordered in case I need them in future. Yamaha is out of their mind.
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as many members here have done, i purchased the bolt kits for my saddlebags that make it easier and quicker to remove the bags from my venture without tools. however, after chasing the bolts and the washers and the rubbers and the spacers all over the garage floor as you move the bags from the bike to the bench for cleaning or whatever?? i came up with a simple sullution to keep the junk together! these are common to the automobile and bodyshops and called retainer clips that held the emblems on the fenders of cars, before they started gluing everything on. also called star washers, and can be purchased at most hardware stores. put all your spacers washers rubbers and stuff into place on the bags and then stick this retainer over the end of the bolts to keep everything together. works, and it's cheap!
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I've improved gas mileage now on about 12 bikes. This works especially if you are under 40 mpg. I'm consistantly getting mid to high 40's on all my 1100-1200's. Easy 1-2 Hour job 1. Remove the carb cap, 4 screws. 2. Remove the spring. 3. Remove carb slide and diaphram, it's black with a needle hanging out the back. 4. Remove the jet needle, there's a large screw inside the middle of the carb slide holding it in. 5. There is a white spacer under a circle clip. Remove it. 6. Replace the white spacer with any small washers about 1/2 the thickness of the white spacer under the circle clip. 7. Ignore the fact that the white spacer has a small tit on one side. 8. You may want to add extra washers on top of the circle clip. (I didn't on my Venture and a friends) 9. Put it all back together in the same order it came apart. New washers, jet needle with circle clip tight (check it), 1 or more washers on top of circle clip, small spring, plastic screw, in that order. 10. Carefully reinstall slide and diaphram. Notice diaphram has a tap. 10. Do only one carb at a time. (Can use others as reference) 11. Go for a ride checking gas mileage and performance. My friends 87 Std. went from 37 to 45 mpg. 12. Clean and check spark plugs before and after. Correct color is gray, tan or clean depending on type of gas used. Slightly white electrodes is Ok if the plug base near threads is darker. white base and tip is too lean; black is too rich. 13. SO: Add washers under circle clip to richen, remove washers to lean. 14. My bike is faster now lean (hotter combustion) 15. I set pilot jet screws to 1 3/4 turns out 16. All 4 Ventures were way out of synch before I did them. Much smoother now. Questions? Send me a PM or email: chuckfrench48@gmail.com (mention VR)
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I found a leak on the front caliper today, and took the caliper off, cleaned off all the gunk and had a look at it. I couldn't see any place where it was leaking, so I split the sides, the rubber washers were good, so I reassembled them with a bit of anaerobic sealant out side the perimeter of the rubber washers as some added assurance. Bled the brakes and everything works. Are there typical places that I sould double check that would leak on this?
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This works on all motorcycles with carbs. I've slightly revised this for better clarification. And I posted to this section for 2nd Gen's to read. Easy 1-2 Hour job 1. Remove the carb cap, 4 screws. If 1 screw is a security screw used vise grips to turn. 2. Remove the spring. 3. Remove carb slide and diaphram, it's black with a needle hanging out the back. 4. Remove the jet needle, there's a large screw inside the middle of the carb slide holding it in. Pay attention to the order the parts come out. 5. There is a white spacer under a circle clip. Remove it. 6. Replace the white spacer with any small washers about 1/2 the thickness of the white spacer under the circle clip. 7. Ignore the fact that the white spacer has a small tit on one side. 8. You can add 1-2 washers on top of the circle clip to take up the space. (I didn't on my Venture and friends) 9. Put it all back together in the same order it came apart. New washers, jet needle with circle clip tight (check it), 1 or more washers on top of circle clip, small spring, plastic screw, in that order. 10. Carefully reinstall slide and diaphram. Notice diaphram has a tab. 11. Do only one carb at a time. (Can use others as reference) 12. Go for a ride checking gas mileage and performance. My friends 87 Std. went from 37 to 45 mpg. 13. Clean and check spark plugs before and after. Correct color is gray, tan or clean depending on type of gas used. Slightly white electrodes is Ok if the plug base near threads is darker. white base and tip is too lean; black is too rich. 14. SO: Add washers under circle clip to richen, remove washers to lean. 15. My bike is faster now lean (hotter combustion) 16. I set pilot jet screws to 1 3/4 turns out 17. All 4 Ventures were way out of synch before I did them. Much smoother now. Questions? Send me a PM or email: chuckfrench48@gmail.com (mention VR)
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I can't seem to find the #4 flat washer needed to modify the carb needle...My local hardware store has #4 split washers and #6 flat washers but no #4 flats..Home Depot only has #6 flat... Any suggestions? -
While rebuilding the carberators on my 87' VR this past weekend, one of the hardest things was getting those phillips screws out of carb. covers! What a pain. I destroyed over half of them removing them. I searched all over town and bought a few boxes of Stainless Steel metric Allen Head cap screws and some really nice Stainless Steel flat washers to give my rebuild a nice "Custom Touch". After I bought the cap screws, I polished the heads of the cap screws on my buffing wheel to a mirror finish. I have a few sets of these cap screws left over and If anyone would like a set I have placed an ad in the Classifieds, the link is below. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1643 I think you will find the quality of this hardware to be excellent! It was purchased from a Marine supply house and to top it off I have hand polished the head of every cap screw to a mirror finish! For our members North of the border, the shipping might be a bit more but I will only charge the actual shipping cost, nothing more. Paypal is prefered, Checks take a while to clear. You will get 16 cap screws and 16 washers, enough to do all 4 carbs.! Shipping is included to the lower 48 states. -
Well I finally did it, I pulled the 1973 Kawasaki 125cc out of my mother in laws shed where it has been for the last 20 - 25 years. It is a mess but I figured I will start with the obvious and go from there. The gas tank is coated in rust on the inside and I am looking for feed back from you guys about the pros and cons of the diffrent methods. I have seen several ways of doing this including Freebirds post on Kleen. I figure either way I go I will be putting washers, chains or some other metal in there with a good spin to loosen up all the surface rust and break loose all I can before going with the chemical cleaners. Someone suggested tieing the tank in a blanket with washers in it and putting it in the dryer on NO heat for some time to get it all knocked loose. What are your thoughs on the following methods: 1. Navel Jelly 2. Kleen 3. Electrolosis If you have another idea I am all ears. I want to know which method you think is best and more importantly in my case idiot proof.
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I put some footpegs on the crash guards on my 84 but I can't get them into the right angle. They work the way they are but could be more comfortable. Do any of you know where a guy can get some beveled washers so I can shim them to the right angle? Or does anyone know another good way to get them to the right angle? They need to move a good 20* +/- a couple.
