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  1. Hey Guys, I need some help. You would have thought as many RSV fork springs that I have replaced this past year, that I would have already done this, but I just haven't For anyone that still has stock springs in their RSV and has a motorcycle lift that takes the front wheel completely off the ground, I need your help. I need you to get me the static sag measurement of just the bike as follows: 1. Lift the bike completely off the ground to where the forks are extended all the way out. 2. Take a 4" length of masking tape place it on the right lower fork leg with one end slipped slightly under the top cover. 3. Now use the bottom of the top fork cover as a guide and draw a line on the tape. 4. Now let the bike down on the jack to where the bike is resting completely on the ground and slightly off the jack. 5. Holding the right handlebar to steady the bike, use the upper fork tube as a guide and draw another line. 6. Lift the bike back up and peel the tape off the lower fork leg Now you have a piece of tape with 2 lines on it. Measure that distance and you have the bike's static sag. I need that distance, please. Thanks, Rick I have attached a picture of this tape on the fork lower so you can see what I'm talking about.
  2. I had this posted in the 2nd Gen Tech area, but since time is running out, I am throwing this out to all. I am going to help my friend install Sonic Progressive springs in his 2001 RSV this Thursday. I need to know what to expect. I have done this to my 1st Gen, but want to know what to expect on a 2nd Gen. I hope to complete it in less than 4 hours. I have looked/searched for a thread on the spring installation process and the best I found was a statement on another thread that there were no 2nd Gen installation threads. I put Progressives in my 1st Gen, but the 2nd Gen looks different enough with the newer fork style etc. So, any hints, tips, suggestions or good excuses I can use while working on this bike ? The fairing removal looks challenging, does the fork caps come off using a crescent on the square area right below the air valve ? It looks like once you loosen the 2 fork bracket cinch bolts, they should unscrew. Any and all information will be helpful. I hope to knock this out in around 4 hours. Does that sound reasonable ? Also, how far form the top of forks should the oil be while the tubes are compressed ? How about any spacers on top of the new springs ? Info...I'm begging for info... Bill
  3. guys, i've been gleaning info off of alot of you trying to find answer to my handling woes... read about how tires help and so on. i keep trying but i'm not there yet. when i cross an uneven road surface the bike feels wiggly. i feel it basically at all speeds. its like the bike is hinged in the middle. i have the super fork brace on and a new shinko tour master up front, i'll be putting a new rear shinko on this week. maybe that will help. i've tried all tire pressures and it helps a touch but not enough. i'm convinced something is wrong with the front forks..i've looked for cracks in the frame and don't see any. i've put over 2k miles on the bike and love it but this wiggle is killing me and if i could get this resolved then the bike would be perfect. i know the bike went down at some point. the tell tale highway bar crack in the plastic elbow, the crack in the right fairing and so on. i've noticed the handle bars are cocked to the left a touch and it is likely because of bike going down, i noticed that when i removed the front tire that i thought the right front fork was twisted a touch thus making the bolt hard to remove and reinstall since the alignment was off a bit. i also hear some clunking or some kind of looseness in the fork tubes when i bounce the front end gently when its on the rear stand, but when i grab and twist everything it all feels solid. if i have to put a whole new front end on there, i will. i can't trust the way this thing feels although it does feel pretty good in the curves, but to switch lanes is like gambling with your life. i don't know if anybody is close to me that can coach me or give me some counsel or if there is a tech day that i can get some experts to take a look. any suggestions??
  4. Are attached pictures of a stock RSV fork spring or an aftermarket? Gary
  5. This is for all Hannigan Steer-Lite owners or anyone who may know the needed info... My parts are on their way & should be received in less than a week. I'm in the process of replacing the stock fork springs & 5 weight fork oil, with 15 weight fork oil & Progressive Springs. Does anyone have info on what the 4 fork clamp bolts on the Triple Tree should be torqued to? Any info or suggestions will be greatly appreciated! I also plan on installing the forks so that the top fork cover is flush with the top of the Tree. Front side flush - back side a little below to make it easy for maintenance checks. My goal is to do this once & enjoy my very nice Venture-Hannigan Trike. Thanks; John
  6. Well it looks like I have found my winter project for my Gen1... a small leak in the right fork seal. Used the "film" method twice but it returns. (I know I shudda replaced them when I installed progressives) I figure while I have it apart, I will disconnect the antidives, replace the front tire, & add a superbrace. How bad is the fork seal replacement on a Gen 1? Also is there a preferred seal to use? I was going OEM dealer but if there is a better one I'm game. Don't want to do this again too soon.
  7. Well I started my "Winter" project early. I had to do fork seals ASAP as I was leaking all over the place. I lost 1/2 my fork oil in the right for. No wonder it was handling badly. When I disassembled the forks and inspected the seal, I noticed that it had a nick in it the size of a pinhead. I was leaking fork oil just parked in the garage!! Anyway... It was an intimidating tasks but actually the job is really not that bad. It's just a few extra steps over doing progressives. I have to give a shout out AGAIN to Muffinman for all his help. I used a 41mm MotionPro Ringer fork seal driver. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009M4COVI]Motion Pro (08-0489) 41mm Ringer Fork Seal Driver : Amazon.com : Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41bv0ErRFtL.@@AMEPARAM@@41bv0ErRFtL[/ame] Worked perfect on the 40mm forks I also made a short video showing the disassembly & reassembly process to hopefully take the fear out of someone considering doing them for the 1st time. My kid is going to do some editing on it so I can upload it. What's left is to put the tire & calipers back on, drop the progressives back in & add fork oil. Hey what else is there to do during a hurricane??
  8. How much air pressure should be in my front forks?? I don't think I have any air in them after checking with a guage. ( 99 ROYAL STAR BLVD. STD.) Any tips on front fork maintance would help, I have never had air front forks before! PLEASE REPLY ASAP! :confused24:
  9. I'm thinking about the BikeMaster seals. My dad used em in Lady Blue before me and before they started to leak, they did okay. Anyone with experience on em? Dust seals, oem as well? and to top it off... Covers. I love the fact my forks look good uncovered, but a little bit of protection couldn't hurt... If oem, can't someone point the seals out for me in the parts fisch -.-' every time I look at it, my head hurts.
  10. After my bike was hit by a blind truck driver, August 11 (See thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72484 ), I contacted my insurance company took the bike to the dealer for estimates on the damage. I immediately ordered a side stand, which arrived in a few days and was quickly replaced. On September 18th, the parts were in, and I delivered the bike for the parts to be replaced (Front fender, front lower fork, wind deflectors, passing light bar). First thing on the 19th, I was informed that the label on the fork package indicated the correct part, but the contents were not as advertised. This was not discovered until AFTER the bike had been taken apart. A new fork would be ordered RUSH, but it would be coming from Japan. Should be in by Friday, 28th September. (10 days to ship by air across the Pacific?) Friday, checked for the part... should be in later. "Please let me know either way!" Dealer didn't call, so I phoned on Saturday. "I don't think it came in" he says. Why didn't he KNOW? He did call back, and said that Toronto told him it would be in on Tuesday. Tuesday noon: The part is still not there. Toronto says it's in transit. Should be there tomorrow. Got the call at lunch time that the bike was ready. Great... job done, and I am thrilled to have her back with a forecast of at least seven days perfect riding weather ahead. (Big advantage to being unemployed! ... the ONLY advantage). My confusion: why would a rush item shipped from Japan to Vancouver (Port Moody) have to go through Toronto?
  11. Well, As you know from reading my other thread, I had a freakin monster of a time getting my front axle to break lose once I took the pinch bolt out. I worked with it for about an our at night, and then got on it the next morning. I had to grunt, holler, and pull with all my 300lbs of weight to finally get it to break lose. As I'm finding out from some of you and a few friends locally, once I took the pinch bolt out, it shouldn't have been that hard. Well, now I'm realizing why there was a problem. When I got the axle out, I had noticed the threads had what looked like some sort of maybe thread locker stuff on it, and they also had what I now realize was some thread trash on them. At that time, I just cleaned them up real good, and took a brush to them and got them shiny looking again. I wasn't even thinking to look at the threads inside the fork tube. Well, today I got my new tire on the rim, and started back remounting the wheel on the fork tubes. When I got the axle snug, I put my torque wrench on it, set to 56 ftlbs, and I didn't turn it hardly any and I felt the threads get weak. The torque wrench hadn't even got to the point of clicking yet. I stopped instantly and realized what I had felt. I backed the axle back out, and looked inside the fork tube and confirmed what my suspicions were. The threads were in pretty ruff shape and had been semi stripped. I now realize that the last time I had the tire replaced at the bike shop, they must've overtightend and partially stripped it, so they then put a thread locker on it to make it stay in place. That had to be why it took an act of God to get it to break loose. So, I'm in a predicament. I need suggestions for next steps. Do I have to buy a new fork tube? Has anyone had to go through this and maybe fixed it another way? If I do have to buy a new fork tube, does anyone have one that I could buy cheap? etc, etc, etc. The suckish thing is, the shop that I had the work done at, went out of business, then was bought and opened by new owners. So, there's no way I can get retribution. Need help, please.
  12. How do I get the left fork tube off my 2007 RSTD? I took the 2 pinch bolts out of the top, and removed 2 allen bolts at the middle that looked like they were holding the middle cover on, but no budging. Is there something else? Seems like there should be more to it than that, but the aluminum covers/protectors don't allow me to see anything else. Thanks
  13. I'm not sure of my memory on this one but both the MKI and MKII inner fork tubes are 40mm or 41mm diameter? Mike
  14. Does anyone have the lower fork air deflectors and brackets that they want to unload? Roger:mustache:
  15. I posted this in the Watering hole and it was moved to GoldWing section. But it works on ANY bike so I am reposting here. Remember, even if temporary this fix works, is free (with an old film strip) and can save you on a trip and save money as many have found the fix to work long term. Eck said some use an old credit card, but that is too thick IMO, stick with something very thin and flexible like a film strip. Here we go: My GoldWing developed a bad leak in the Right fork right before taking a trip to FL two weeks ago. If I had known of what I am going to tell you now, I could have saved a lot of mess. The only solution for leaky fork seals is a new seal...right? WRONG! There is a guy selling a special tool to clean and reseal those leaky seals, but if you have some old 35mm picture packs around, you can do it for free with a strip of 35mm film negative. Trust me, I did this and it works like a charm. Turns out the reason most seals leak is they get dirty from inside. If you take a strip of film negative (trim the "sprockets" off because they can break off, so the sides are smooth, and round the corners of one end) and after raising up the dust seal, slip the negative under the fork seal, keeping it tight to the fork tube. The film will go in the seal maybe 1/2" or so. Stop at that point and then carefully and slowly just slide the negative around the tube, keeping it mostly vertical with the tube. Do this about 2-3 times, just sliding it around the tube with it under the seal. Remove the film and wipe down the tube, and test it by bouncing. It should stay dry. If you notice any more oil, try it again. But it shouldn't need it. Like I said, my fork was squirting all over my bike while riding and while it was bouncing in a trailer on the way to FL. After getting back I found this solution on an 1800 site, and tried it and I now have about 150 miles on since the "fix" and my forks are bone dry. May not last forever, but the guy that I heard this from said he hasn't replaced a seal in many years. I need to replace the fluid in my fork, but if I had caught it sooner, I wouldn't have to do that. (edit, yes, there still IS oil in my fork to leak, but is isn't so far, over 200 miles and counting) Try it, all you have to loose is one film strip (make it one you don't care about!). __________________ Don Mallinson Washington IL
  16. Disregard this post...... upon further inspection i figured out how the cover was mounted.... MY 2007 Midnight RSTD has developed a "Buzzing" sound at high idle and 'at speed' - the noise is coming from the left lower fork cover. this cover has a little movement (the other side is solid) in it causing the buzzing.....i can temporarily fix it by simply pushing on the cover to stop the noise but eventually it starts all over again. I looked at my service manual to see if i could understand how this cover is secured, but the info isn't detailed enough to figure it out. I know we have some very knowledgeable members out there and hope one of you can offer advice. The incessant buzzing going down the road is ANNOYING !! Help ........ Buz
  17. I've been told that adding more fork oil will stiffen the ride and removing oil will soften the ride. So what does adding or reducing front fork air do to the ride?
  18. When setting still the speedometer reading jumps around and doesnt work going down the road cleaned up contacts but it was coverd with fork oil, Shorted out would be my guess, Any other ideas. Thanks Orlin
  19. Hi all, Just lowered my front end, 2005 Venture. All was going fine until trying to get the triple tree back on. It's not quite centered on the middle bolt so when it get's down to the 'neck' of the bolt the triple tree is hanging up. Have tried pushing rearward on the front tire, and forward with the front brake on. Doesn't seem to change. Can't think of any way to get any leverage between both fork tops and the bolt to get it to 'lean' in. Any suggestions? Looks like I'm about a half hour from being done if I can get past this..... Thanks John
  20. What I found owning 2 30 year old bikes, you can't find a dealer to work on anything older than 2000. For anyone in Hampton Roads Virginia area Sunrise Cycle in Norfolk will work on them. Well only on the off season (Sept to February). http://www.sunrisecycle.com/ Today I did my progressives & I had to go out & get fork oil. I asked the parts Mgr a question about how to do something & he walked me into the service area to talk to a tech. The tech not only answered my question but went through the entire procedure with me. (All I bought was fork oil) That's when I asked him if they worked on old bikes, expecting a "no" answer. It's good to find a dealer willing to work on any year make of what they sell!
  21. Now I know what you guys are talking about when you say you "miss" second gear. I just finished doing the second gear repair on my 83 and wow, it's a real treat being able to get on the throttle hard in second without having to worry about it popping out even under mild acceleration. All in all the repair went well but I do admit I was a bit baffled when I had the engine ready to come out and just could not figure out which direction it needed to go to get out of the frame. After considerable trial and error, I found that the front of the engine has to come up and then forward to clear the output shaft all while giving it a twist to the right. Likewise, going back in, the procedure in reverse worked great. Once on the bench the cases split apart nicely and the problem was the worn thrust washers. While I had it opened up took advange of all the recommendations on this site and replaced all the o-rings and seals that had been breached and I had the gears undercut to prevent slippage under load. Naturally, I replaced the thrust washers, the washer that goes behind them and shift fork #1. While I was not sure that my shift fork was bent, I replaced it anyway and I noticed that the new one was a beefier design. The parts, including all the gaskets came to about $175.00. I also installed the clutch kit from Skydoc_17 while I had it open, another $70.00 Reassembly was cut and dry with the only tricky part being the application of the Yamabond sealant and getting the shifting forks to line up when mating the cases. Once the engine was back in the frame (remember, go in high) I completed the installation and fired it up. After assuring that there were no leaks and everything was up to operating temperature, I took it for a quick spin and the gears worked perfectly. Thanks to all on this site for their wealth of information, help and support. I've added some photos from the build. 1. New thrust washers installed 2. Shift fork #1 3. Ready for lower case 4. Ready for lower case 5. Worn out thrust washers
  22. anyone here change the fork oil using the method by freebird?? how much of a pain was it and what kind of oil did you use ?? getting ready for spring maint. and been thinking this would be a good one to do. like i need more fluids to flush and fill...lol
  23. Does anyone know of a source for the air fittings on an '06 fork?
  24. I took my 08 RSV to the dealer to have a major service done . The service mgr call to tell me that one of the fork seals is leaking. I inquired about whether it's a warranty issue and he told me he didn't thinks so that the factor considers this normal wear, like brake pads. Oh yeah, I have just under 30k miles. Has any one else dealt with this will still in warranty? Thanks, Rich
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