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Personal Information

  • Name
    Hugh G


  • Location
    Lower Alabama, United States


  • City
    Lower Alabama


  • Home Country
    United States


  • Interests
    Biking, RVing, Boating
  • Bike Year and Model
    2008 RSTD-S
  1. You nailed that one right on the head! Reminds me of the look of the 50's (I was there) and the sound of the muscle cars of the 60's. Alas, wifey says they are too loud and no one will ride behind me. I need to calm them down or sell them. Any ideas short of getting rid of the wife?
  2. Tools imply WORK. He who has the most TOYS when he dies, wins!
  3. Eased my bike down on some gravels (dropped it). Dinged the bottom edge of my right saddlebag. Do they make chrome strips for the bottom edge of saddlebags that I could use on both sides to hide the ding. I know I could have someone repair it, but the chrome might look good in my effort to make the bike look retro. Any suggestions? Thanks!
  4. Never had a Corbin, but really liked the Mustang I had. Their return policy is: Return Policy for Seats and Accessories Purchased Directly from Mustang If you buy a seat directly from Mustang (whether online or by telephone), you have up to a maximum of 10 days after receiving it to discuss the nature of any problem with a Mustang customer representative by calling 800-243-1392 or 860-582-9633. If the seat is to be returned, we will send you a Return Merchandise Authorization (“RMA”) form that will include our shipping address. As with any product you would return, be sure it is in perfect condition (no scratches, scuffs, rips, etc.). Any returns in less than new condition will be charged a 20% restocking fee. Put the seat back into the original box with the original packaging, include the RMA form and ship it prepaid to Mustang via UPS, FedEx or the Postal Service. No returns will be accepted without a Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA) form. All returns must be prepaid and carefully packed to avoid shipping damage. Seems fair to me.
  5. I used to use both the toe and heel shifter, but when I got my RSTD neither one was comfortable so I adjusted the toe to be comfortable. The heel is now too high to be used, but I don't think I'll ever go back to using the heel anyway.
  6. If you want to really see that part of Alaska, schedule your ferry trip so you can get off and spend a few days at the different stops on the way to Juneau. Last time I figured it, it only added about 10% to the total Ferry cost. They will work with you to arrange your schedule. Don't try to see it all, you can't! We spent 4+ months in 2007 and still didn't see the parts you will see on the Inland Passage. It's a trip to remember.
  7. Phertwo: Still anxiously waiting for the baffle measurement. Did you go on vacation?
  8. I have the same pipes; and, being slightly hard of hearing, the noise doesn't bother me but it does bother those riding behind me. When you measure the baffles, describe the end cap. I assume that it's a restrictor and may or may not have a hole in the end. I don't get the hammering sound that you are getting (at least I don't hear it). I like the idea of slipping a slightly larger baffle over the existing baffle. That would help solve my limited mechanical abilities. Thanks for the great write-up!
  9. 0 rear, 0 front; handles fine. Ride solo at 220#, why the air? Just makes it ride harder seems to me.
  10. Ditto! Mine is a Knightrider too and I decided not to get a diode for a $6 bulb. When I get back from my Skyline Dr ride, I'm going to look at their LED boards which have a diode. Thanks again to all!
  11. Never install two separate things at the same time. I had just installed an LED brake light bulb in place of my standard 1157. Worked fine. Running lights OK, Brake lights OK. Then I tried to wire an LED pulsating strip that was supposed to work only when the brakes were applied. It worked with both the running lights and was slightly brighter with the brakes. Not good to have pulsating running lights (not even sure it's legal to have a pulsating brake light). To make a long story short, the LED bulb used a resister to reduce the voltage to 7.5v for the tail light and 12v for the brake. The strip would operate on the 7.5v so it was on all the time. The 1157 bulb is a dual intensity; so put the 1157 back and problem solved. Thanks for all the replies!
  12. I'm trying to add an LED strip to my brake light. When my brake light is on (brakes on) I'm pulling 11.5 volts, but when its not on I'm still pulling 7.5 volts. This low voltage causes my LED to light defeating its use as an additional brake light. Is this voltage normal? My existing brake and running light works fine, but this low voltage is messing me up. Thanks for any help!
  13. You are right on the money again. The JIS screwdriver's are not available anywhere in the local market-must be ordered. Just so I can finally contribute, I discovered that the cheap screwdrivers in our bike's tool kit are JIS #1 & #2 Phillips head and fit the headlight adjusting screws perfectly!
  14. Made a note! Thanks for the offer. We'll be on I-81 whether pulling or riding.
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