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jonsmyth

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Everything posted by jonsmyth

  1. I have a "Racepro" 4 barrel sync manometer? that a police detective lent me- but no clue how to tune them- going to you tube instructional school!
  2. I did my diaphragms today- 3 were holy! Like holy crap, batman! After my second tank of gas netted me only 30mpg, I got busy reading. I jumped in and removed my diaphragms today. The first had no holes, and I was wondering if I had needed to buy the kit as recommended from Sirius Consolidated Inc. as advised by you guys here on 1st gen. posts. But the second, third and fourth cylinders all had multiple breaches. My slider jets did not have the white washer, but had multiple places on the body where you could move the cir-clip, and thus the mixture, up or down. As one post by member Bobcat mentioned his BMW had this feature, and you can lean it out by moving it up a notch. I did this to all the sliders, and I have not road tested it yet but it runs fine. I'm wondering if someone put a set of old carbs on my 1987? I look forward to adding a crankcase breather (tips , anyone?) like i read about here, and checking my mileage. I have to say thanks to all that helped- especially "5bikes". I would not have had the courage to break into the carbs without the input and guidance of this group.
  3. Hey, I had the same idea. I just spent 2 days repairing cracks and fabricating new tabs and pressure point reinforcement on all that crappy plastic. I think that there is a very small niche market, but it could pay for itself. I would leave the shape of the uppers intact for those who want to maintain the radio, etc.
  4. RE: help me out of this mess Post earlier- 87 Venture Royale with pulsating brakes and washer questions- Got my new brake pads today, and then I spent time aligning the caliper housing. I swear that aluminum bracket was cantered a few degrees off of perpendicular to the axle. I threaded a large carraige bolt through it and used "my little freind" (see pic). A few whacks clearly nudged it. I wonder how it got bent. Then i had to only shim the back bolt with one thin washer. Everything looks square, and the pads are even and the rotor is tracking very close to center front and back. I can't test drive it of course until my new throttle cables arrive, but the rotor is no longer hanging anywhere in the rotation of the wheel. [ATTACH]35449[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]35450[/ATTACH]
  5. I got a avalon for the front ($110) and a metzeler for the rear ($140) plus shipping , now driving ($20, round trip) and $20 per to mount and balance.(i remove, replace)
  6. Some do, some don't. For me, way out in the sticks, it takes a half day ride and and extra 30 bucks for the pair. Since I spent almost 300 on premium rubber, maybe i should. i thank you as i am a nubie dumbxxx.
  7. I saw freebird's suggestion for using relays- but wondering about adding a couple of wally world driving lights, and a 12volt outlet for a gps. I was wondering a good place to wire in the new 12 volt high amp circuit- and if i should place a fuse in line as well. I don't want to fry the computer!
  8. if i lay down on the floor- I'll be the one releasing air! What do you mean, check it out on the floor? Is there a release on the back single shock? I see there is one by the steering yoke- i guess that is for the front?
  9. I removed my CLASS suspension control as it was being flakey and not letting air out of the system, only adding it. It was not working at all in AUTO mode. Clumsy me, I dropped it face down on the hard floor, and the LCD readout broke. Now it doesn't work at all. Goes haywire when i try to use it. Am I best off to leave it unplugged? Can you add air to the front or back or let air out manually? Does anyone have one for an 87 model that works? Send me a PM and I'll get back to you. As always, thanks for looking and I appreciate any info.
  10. My '87 model has 80k on her, and I want to go touring. My #3 cable broke where it goes through the adjuster elbow over the carbs. Should I replace all the cables while I have to wait for new parts anyway? It looks like #3 takes most of the abuse anyway. Also, is there any dealers who may have these cables on hand- most seem to have to order everything!
  11. I'm confused. The edge looks wierd, with the angle on the inside like that. It can't be that way for the brake, it is way too steep of an angle!
  12. My throttle cable broke going to town to get brake supplies, and I had to set the idle to 3 grand and then nurse it home- TRICKY! Does anyone know a good source for stock cables? Can you repair old ones, or is it worth it? You'd need a huge crimper tool, I'm sure! So for now, brake problems don't matter cause scooter wont go!
  13. It may be stuck...I'll pull it aghain and inspect!
  14. with big washer between the bracket and swingarm- but it pushed the rotor even further into the caliper- so the big washer is now between the "head" of the axle and the swingarm. This picture is just a try- not how it is now!
  15. I have a bizzarre issue where the rear wheel disk rotor is for some reason out of alignment with the brake caliper housing. This has caused the rotor to actually come in contact with the housing, and I do not know how this issue started. There are clues. First I purchased the bike making a bad clicking noise when the rear brake was applied. Also, then as now, the rear brake pulsates at low speed- or the pulsing is less apparent at high speed. The clicking went away when I noticed the pinch bolt on the rear axle was loose. When I tightened it, and the axle was secured, the clicking dissappeared. When the caliper was removed, it was obvious the rotor was contacting the inboard (wheel) side of the housing, as it is mounted on the bike. A local Yammer mechanic said i was probably missing a spacer, but viewing the exploded views of the manual and parts catalog, this is not clear to me that i'm missing anything. It is possible that the previous owner or his freind Homer left something out when doing a tire change or something. I have used two washers on the caliper housing mounting bolts to offset the housing towards the wheel by 1/16 - 3/32 towards the wheel side, this looks like it has helped. The Yammer mechanic said the pads are supposed to float, and adjust to the wheel position. The brake is functional. the pads are hopefully "reseating", but all ain't rite. Suggestions, you motor-heads?
  16. I have had many bikes, most would go up as described, but this is the heaviest. I'll practice before i go welding anything.
  17. I notice after i do something to my bike I read a better way to do it on the forum after i do it, so this time i'm asking. Any special tools or work arounds? should i spring for the irridim (is that like dilithium crystals?) spark plugs? Thanks
  18. both good suggestions. I was thinking of maybe making a "ramp" out of a 2x6????
  19. Anyone else have this problem? My 87 is too friggin heavy to get it up without assistance. I am ready to chop off 2 inches so t will be usable in a parking lot at least. Or should i bring a come-:179:along and park near a girder or streetlight? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/images/smilies/179.gif
  20. I need a special screwdriver- torx YU-25359- to remove the "tamper resistant" screws in the covers of my carbs on my 87 venture. Any sources? I cringe at the thought of buying anything from them and you pay through the nose...and arm... Thanks!
  21. When I look up parts and stuff online, I see two models listed- VENTURE ROYALE - XVZ1300DT - 1987 or VENTURE ROYALE - XVZ1300DTC - 1987 What is the difference? Thanks
  22. Anyone know where I can get a rear disk for my 87? And is it the same as a range of other years of the Venture Royal? OEM is backordered, and wants a fortune- $900!
  23. Hello All, 1st, thanks to those who have helped in my search and evaluation posts. I promised some pix of the "New" bike, sop here they are. It is a 1987 model, 89K miles, ridden but apparently not abused. I looked at several low miles bikes but they had been sitting too long with issues. This bike feels like a well worn glove. It starts easy, runs great. I do have a warped rear brake disk which makes the brake pulse. The plastics are cracked, but I got this bike so cheap- $2200- that I felt I could live with some cosmetic issues. The original tape player works, and I have been listening to Who's "Quadrophenia" for days now. The radio works, but the digital window is not illuminated. The bike came with a bag that has the headset com units, but I have not tried it. The CLASS semms to work, but the toggle between front and rear is slow and a little flaky. Pressure seems to hold when it finally sets. The trunks are clean with no cracks. Wow, this engine / tranny chips. You'd think they would have called it the "Freebird" or something. I'm glad I didn't buy the Gold Wing- Those big heads sticking out really warmed up my boots and got in my way of shifting/ braking. This Yammer is much better! There is some surface rust on screw heads, etc., but it comes off with my thumbnail. Can anyone tell me a good polish? Also, in the one picture is the handlebar. The finish is bad. Time to get out the grinder? Steel wool and clear epoxy? Suggestions on technique? Hey- what is that hole for in the left console for? The CB does not work, so I bet the com unit doesn't either. Oh well. I need a good "sticky" new front tire. I don't care if it costs more, I want to corner this hog. Gas mileage seems real bad- 30 mpg. i didn't buy it for economy, but will I have to go real slow and shift at 2k rpm to get the 45 mpg that others claim? So many questions. I'll try to find answers within, but some things on my searches are coming up blank.
  24. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66771 Available from all the Chinese big box stores. Northern tool has somme too, i think. check it out. I saw a Kawasaki pulling one. Said it was great!
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