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  1. Well, I have most of the info anyway. I have negotiated what I believe is a good price...if you don't agree, sorry. Anyone who wants just diaphragms, I have negotiated a price with Sirius Consolidated, here in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada. They don't deal with the slider kits, just diaphragms. Regular price for a set of four was $89.00.....we can get a set of four for $60.00 US or $15.00 for one, if you don't need four. They will ship to anywhere in Canada or United States for $5.00 per order. If you want to order from them, direct your email to Martin at this email address: sci@siriusconinc.com and indicate that this is a VentureRider order, for that price. Their part number is called SD-1 I am working ( slowly through emails ) with an outfit called Carb Kit Capital for slide assemblies but haven't got a firm price from them yet. I'll post that when I get it.
  2. I have an '87 with only 10'000 miles on it! Over its lifespan there have been several multiyear periods when it's sat idle due to persistent maintenance issues. Here is the latest. I drove it in June for approx. 10 miles and it ran fine. A few days later it "got sick"! It always starts, but when I tried to accelerate, it was exhibiting symptoms of only running on three cylinders. When I removed the air cleaner, only 3 of the sliders were moving. I've heard a lot about bad diaphragms, as well as other issues so here's what I've done (over the past 8 months). I thought that it may be a case of old gas so I initially gave it the Sea Foam treatment. No improvement. Although I couldn’t see any holes in the diaphragms, I didn’t want to leave any stone unturned so I have purchased several new diaphragms as well as slider/diaphragm kits. Just in case there was a problem with an old needle, I found a source and bought 3 new ones.($$$$$) Throughout the past 8 months I have turned it into a frustrating pastime of routinely mixing and matching sliders, diaphragms and needles to try to find a combination that would work. Here I have to emphasize that all through this process all I’ve managed to do is move the problem! The bike always starts with no hesitation but (even after it’s warmed up) it won’t respond to any acceleration. Incidentally, in order to try to minimize my efforts, I have just been juggling parts on the right two carbs only. In essence, I can get either the right front carburetor to act normal OR the right rear, but not both simultaneously. Here it is December and not only is it past riding season in New England but it’s also too cold to pursue this problem anymore in an unheated garage until Spring. Meanwhile, if anyone has any suggestions about something I haven’t tried yet, I’d sure like to hear it and I’ll take it into consideration when I resume trying to fix this problem in the Spring. It sure eats my heart out to own a bike that is mint physically but sick mechanically.
  3. And you're in a pinch....... This should get you by for a while. I've done this a few times to help others out, including the ones in my carbs that were done before we knew about the availability from SCI. It works and has held up well for about 20,000 miles on my '84. But here is what got me started again today. I've known I was pushing my luck on the treated diaphragms I did on mine several years ago. I ordered a set of SD1 x4 diaphragms a couple weeks ago from SCI but they were out of stock with a 4 to 6 week wait before they came in. It was running ok but getting hard to start again so I figured I'd change the plugs before I take off on another road trip. So I got the plugs in and it started fine like it does with fresh fire. But..... it felt a little off. Not quite right. So as long as I had the plastic off I pulled the diaphragm covers to take a look. Dang! Not cool. I found two diaphrams with holes in them. Not biggies but enough to cause problems. First pics show what I found. I'm not fixing that. I had spare sliders and diaphragms from another set of carbs. They were set aside long ago as they did have some tiny pinholes in a couple and I didn't need to mess with them at the time. So, here is what I have done, again, until the SCI SD1's come in. Cut down the top of a milk bottle so the hole is large enough to drop in the slider to protect it and the needle from any over spray from the Plasti Dip Spray. Tape off the plastic ring on the outside of the slider. It don't need to be sprayed. Wash the diaphragms down with alcohol to clean them up and let it dry. Give them a light coat of Plasti Dip Spray and let them sit for about a half hour and give them another light coat. They say it needs 4 hours to dry but I'd give them more than that. I didn't want to let it get too heavy as they still need to be flexible. They actually seem to soak up the spray and feel more flexible than they did in the beginning. But they cured and back into the carbs they went. Fired right up and idled fine and a quick sync brought them right on line. I'd done a sync this spring so apparently the rips were recent. But like I said, it's a fix. A pretty durable fix from the miles I've put on the bike since the first time I did this put if you need to get by.... for the cost of a can of Plasti Dip, it's a good one. I might try the Liquid Electrical Tape on the rips and a coat of of Plasti Dip to see if that holds up. Never hurts to know you can at least get home when you're in a bind. Still looking forward to the new ones. Got to be a bigger improvement over the repair. So there ya go. Mike
  4. So here's the story relating to my 88. When I first got it I needed 1/2 choke just to keep it running. MARCARL and I cleaned out every oriface possible with the carbs still on the bike with carb cleaner and compressed air. We set it up best he could and since then I have seafoamed it with a very strong mixture overnight a few times, and add several ounces every 3-4 tanks. Once in a while I put in a heavier dose . It's had at least 8-10 cans thru it. I had a case of a sticky float (I think)on the #3 carb earlier this year as gas was pouring out the overflow tube. But it "fixed" itself when I tapped on the carb body with the handle of a screwdriver (I was on the side of the road at the time). Again...dosed with seafoam and it seemed to be OK for quite a while. Now I'm smelling gas (no overflow) and the idle usually but not always wants to hang up around 2500 rpm. What messes me up is that occasionally it is just fine! (900-1000) I"m finding I don't need any choke to start it. I bought a 2nd carb rack (minus diaphragms and sliders) and I have diaphragms and the basic VMAX ebay carb kit. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions. Even changing out the carb rack would be a major undertaking for my wrenching comfort level so I'd like to wait for off season to do that.
  5. Tried to order some diaphragms for my 87 this week from http://www.siriusconinc.com , but they won't have them in stock for another 5 weeks. Does anyone know where I can get the sd-1 diaphragms faster than that? If someone has a spare set lying around, I would gladly send money via PayPal in order to get them. I inspected one of mine and it has a few good size holes in it. I dread to see what the other ones look like. Thanks in advance. JP
  6. Any one out there had any experience with JBM industies carb. diaphrams? I have seen positive results here with the Sirusconic diaphrams. Just wondering how the JBM diaphrams compare. Price with shipping is nearly identical. Jeff
  7. Its funny. I go around to Napa, Autozone, and O'Rieley AutoParts... and no one has the K&N HP1005... 1004 and 1006, but NOT 1005, SPECIAL ORDER. Lovely, none the less Amazon has come thru, for 11.92, its coming this Saturday (Prime shipping) so this Saturday, I'll be doing a oil change, oil filter swap, spark plug swap, and maybe if I man up. A check of my diaphragms; I'll go with just... doing the on bike carb cleaner trick. Its mostly a lot of hope, the sliders, and diaphragms, I can't do anything with if they're busted, and I'm guessing the sliders are fine--the bike starts, and go its whole tank just fine--but the sliders are injured... and noticable scaring was evident on them when we had the carbs off for checkage during the whole three month snafu, and actually don't slide as GRACEFULLY as they should... so new sliders, new diaphragms hopefully next month, or the month after. Though I will point out, the diaphragms were actually FINE then. So hmmm. Though anyone got any info if I could use OTHER slides than the ones that come with the diaphragms on Ebay (VMAX slides)? some sliders are shiny metal........ So thats the plan..... now all I need to do is fine a nice size rubbermaid bowl for top ramen with sliced sausage this saturday while I work. but none the less... WHY IS THE K&N HP1005 A SPECIAL ORDER?!?!?!?!?! Oooh, should I stick with the NGK spark plugs, the DPR8EA-9 NGK is what I got in my memopad for spark plugs (and X24EPR-U9?) Oil if anyone asks, was thinking of 15w40, 50/50 blend from our local motorcycle dealer. --And if anyone wonders, K&N HP1005 is the screw on oil filter that fits on the Rivco Screw on Oil Filter Adapter. Took me a hour to find that... I think I use a jump from a NAPA number... or was it FRAM?
  8. I was contemplating changing the diaphragms on my 96 RSTC since you all made look so easy at MD, I looked at Sirius website and it listed the SD-1 for all XVZ1300 and XVZ13 models of venture, I sent them an email and asked if they would fit the XVZ13ATH Royal Star and they replied ...sure... but if they don't we'll take em back. I being an anal engineer type, sent back an email asking if they were sure as the ventures and some of the stars had different size carbs, like the 28MM and the 32MM ...the reply was they only carry one size. My concern is that they are missing the hole in the tab and the OD dimension for the DS-1 was 72MM which is wider across than my entire cover. Am I correct on this and if so does anyone know where to get the smaller diaphragms only?
  9. I've been working on the carbs and they seem to be coming to life. I was going to see if anyone local had a carb tune or similar synching tool, but figure I will need it again after I change my diaphragms later on down the road. The diaphragms are good but original so they will do for now. Thanks, Ray.
  10. Its 99% complete, the only thing lacking is the rear master cylinder courtesy of Bongobobny, it will be here in a day or 2 and the carb diaphragms. I have ridden it, it runs good even with 2 diaphragms bad, cant wait to get all of them replaced and carb tuned. Enough chit chat on to the pics......... . [ATTACH]67965[/ATTACH][ATTACH]67966[/ATTACH][ATTACH]67977[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]67967[/ATTACH][ATTACH]67968[/ATTACH][ATTACH]67969[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]67970[/ATTACH][ATTACH]67971[/ATTACH][ATTACH]67972[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]67973[/ATTACH][ATTACH]67974[/ATTACH][ATTACH]67975[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]67976[/ATTACH]
  11. I'm looking to buy brand new sliders, and diaphragms, I know where to get the diaphragms, but most of the places to get sliders it appears they COME with diaphragms. And don't appear to be removable for me to add new diaphragms that look a lot different than the floppy sloppy ones I've gotten with the sliders+Diaphragm sets.
  12. Got back in town after 7 straight days of 14 - 15 hour days, mostly sitting in a vehicle. Couldn't wait to get on the bike to run errands. Went to my P.O.Box and there was my CarbTune...woohooo:cool10: Then I paid for the new diaphragms that I won for the 87 on Ebay. So those were the ups...riding, Carbutune and diaphragms... Now the "Down" was that when I pulled into the parking lot of one of my stops, I put the kickstand down and leaned over the bike. The problem was that when I lifted my foot up after putting down the kickstand, my foot caught the kickstand on the way up. That left the beast tilting to the left without the kickstand.... nap time. The next "Up" was that I got to try the backwards lifting technique I have seen on the video. Grabbed the handle bars and the rear side handle and lifted that puppy right up. The Down and Up happened in less than 15 seconds ! Now...back to reports and work....
  13. Did somebody knows where is the best place to get diaphragms and jets for the RS 1997 carbs? Thanks
  14. I have read as many posts as I can about replacement diaphragms for the 83 Venture Royale... but can't seem to be able to locate who might sell the diaphragms only, without the slide, for an inexpensive fix... Does anybody know anyone who currently sells these diaphragms and how I can get in touch with them? Thanks, Joel:12101:
  15. up date on diaphragm prices from sirius consolidated with venture rider.org order is 69.99 for 4 plus 6.oo air mail or13.25 ups. up 9.99 on diaphragms and 1.00 on air mail. still not to bad when you need what you need ! i am not complaining mind you just passing on the info.
  16. So, my 87 project is running a bit rough so I do what any shadetree guy would do and I look down the carbs when the bike is running. I noticed that all the slides are vibrating at different rates with some more active than others. It this a balance thing? Might be shot diaphragms but on a machine this old as soon as I open the carb covers to check for pinholes the diaphragms will be shot because I opened up the chambers. Is there a visual diagnostic other than pulling the slides that indicates diapgragm condition? Letting sleeping dogs lie and all that...
  17. One of my carb slides have separated from the diaphragms Now, if I should glue it, how tight should the seam be? One the other slides I can rotate the diaphragms! Since even pin holes are affecting performance I guess that it must be pretty tight! If I use superglue between the steel insert and the slider, will I ever be able to separate them again?
  18. I know this was a big deal when I had my old '86 1st Gen, but some of our 2nd Gens are getting 10 + years of age on them. Are we seeing the same issues with the carb diaphragms on these bikes as we did the 1st Gens? If not, why?
  19. So I just get done an 800 km ride from alberta into bc. The bike is running good but not great...it feels a bit low in power. Yesterday I decide to take off the aircleaner and have a look at how things are working. It turns out, one of the slides isn't moving. I take the diaphragms out and one has come completely apart. This is the second carbon this has happened on so I take all the diaphragms out and a third inevitable is loose as well. It is an easy fix to glue them back together. Now, it runs like it should. Check those darned slides, folks.
  20. Hello all. Hoping someone can help me. Up here in Coldwater Ontario Canada (yes, I do know Dick Shrivels from Coldwater- haha), I have been experiencing progressively worsening fuel mileage, backfiring on deceleration, etc. So, when I had some service done before, by the supposed 5 Star dealer in Midland Ontario (not to name names but if you recall the nursery rhyme about the name of a boy and a girl who "went up the hill to fetch a pail of water), they apparently put the caps on too tight & not straight or something, wrinkling 2 of the carb diphragms and the needle almost sitting sideways (so I am told). Apparently the diaphragms are backordered from yamaha canada until June 6. I have called around to several dealers and they do not have any in stock. I stopped going to that dealer and went to another shop that their service manager went to. He was getting his parts from a Yamaha dealer in Barrie who supposedly told them the parts would be in yesterday, then today, until...hmmm, not until June 6. Any of our US brother or sister venture riders able to get your hands on 2 diaphragms? Part number 5DM-14940-00-00 Are there any compatible aftermarket versions? The diphragms are supposedly not torn, but they are wrinkled. They are putting the bike backtogether so I can use it and day that the performance & fuel economy will be much better but I will need them replaced. This is supposed to be my anniversary weekend motorcycle ride with my wife leaving yesterday with plans to ride around Lake Michigan - but we are now 27 hours behind schedule and the bike will be ready 2 hours from now. She has taken two days vacation and pissed off...good times! Thanks for your help in advance. My email is trevor.storey@rogers.com and goes to my blackberry if anyone has any information or leads that can help me out. Thanks
  21. hi I'm new here I have a 1986 venture Royale. I need to replace the diaphragms, any help on how to go about doing it would be appreciated. Thanx .
  22. So, since I'm new and don't know any better, could someone tell me the difference between the 1200 and 1300 carb. diaphragms? Are they different in size or length or maybe they prefer chicken to steak. It looks like there is no difference to me, but this is relatively new to me. I've had this bike for 3 to 4 years and I love it, but I can't bring my self to pay the ridiculous price for some yahoo to fix. I'm pretty handy and had to replace the stator my self three months after I got it...twice. I'm sure you guys (and gals) covered this already and I don't wanna be a bother bringing up old news but the season is about to really get under way here in Wisconsin and I wanna be out there a little earlier this year. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  23. I purchased the carb diaphragms from Sirius (who gave us the discount) and they were great. Really easy to install! However, I also purchased some carb mounts (boots between carb and head). They sell them WITHOUT the o-ring! I was very disappointed to see they don't come with the REQUIRED o-ring. Anyways, I would say get the diaphragms from them, but avoid the boots from them as they are not complete!
  24. I road up to SteveD's house on Saturday and met him and Earl & John for the first time. Was a pleasure to meet them, Earl put in my new diaphragms and repaired my slides, needle mod & synchronized carbs. ( an I helped) Steve looked over my bike with a fine tuned flashlight, now I know my frame was welded and in good shape, He showed me my slides were not moving right 2 not at all. (glad I bought the diaphragms in the group buy) The roads were wet so I didn't roll on the throttle to much but the bike is running a lot smother, my mirrors don't shake as much and starts easier. I hope to go for a ride soon to test the improvements. I have to go to Beaufort County SC to work with the Sheriff's Office for 3 days so it will be a few days. Thank You so very much Steve & Earl ps, Another example of what fine people we have at VentureRider.Org
  25. Not being the kinda' guy that likes to do things the easy way,But always looking to save a few bucks I purchased a set of Carb. Diaphragms off of Ebay a while back. ($86.00 with shipping) I thought I would give you a run down on how that went. After removing the False Tank cover and both side covers as well as the lower fairing legs on both sides I was able to get to all 4 Carbs. easily. To remove the Carb. covers I used 3 tools, a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a special Torx bit on it for the 4 odd screws, an impact driver with a Phillips bit in it and finally a pair of Vise Grips for 2 of those Phillips head screws that just wouldn't come out. I took out the Torx head screws first on all 4 carbs. because when you remove the last Phillips head screw, you better have your catcher's mit on, that Carb. cover is coming off...FAST! I had set up 4 shop towels on my bench and kept all of the Carb. parts separated. I held each slider assembly up to a good light to inspect them and sure enough all 4 diaphragms had holes in them. I removed the old Carb. diaphragms by gripping the slider and "rolling" the old diaphragm out from between the two flanges on the slider. Two of the old diaphragms came off in pretty bad shape. I then cleaned all of the reusable parts with Carb. cleaner , but I must say that overall everything looked pretty clean. All 4 of the sliders were nice and smooth as were the Carb. bodies on the engine. I used a clean cloth and Carb. cleaner to clean out the Carb. body bores. (I don't use paper towels for this as I would not want a shard of paper ending up in the intake or the Carb. body) With everything clean I moved on to the reassembly. The Ebay diaphragms were not made of the same material as the stock Yamaha ones, but were very pliable, and had the tab for alignment in the Carb. body. After lubing the diaphragm with aerosol spray silicone I inserted the slider into the bore of the diaphragm. When I got to the flange, I stretched the diaphragm bore over the bottom flange. Now the spacing on the two flanges of the slider seemed a bit "slim" and I panicked for a moment but realized that by using my thumb nail I could wedge the diaphragm bore between the two flanges with no problem. When all was said and done you couldn't tell that the diaphragms and the sliders were not mated at the factory. I had the slider needles out for another project I will discuss later and at this point I reinstalled them. I put the slider assemblies back in the Carb. bodies aligning the tabs, put the caps on with the Stainless Steel Allen Head Cap Screw set I have listed in the classifieds and reinstalled all of the body parts and that as they say was that! Oh yea, I accidentally spilled some paint on the Carb. caps...Oops! I have attached some pics below and am willing to chat with anyone that is interested in this rebuild. Feel free to PM me. Sorry this got a bit "windy" Earl
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