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Found 12 results

  1. I've been struggling to find any documentation on these carbs other than what is in the Yamaha and Clymer manuals. Maybe these are discontinued; even bought a Sudco book, and this Carb is not addressed. Can someone help me with a source? Or, help me to identify the components identified in the following two images. In View A: Does the Red Square cover the Pilot Gas Screw? Or is it under the Blue Pentagon? What is the the brass piece identified in the Green Triangle? It appears to aligned with the needle jet, which is what I think I want to remove, but is may be pressed in. Is the emulsion tube identified within the Purple Star? Can it come out to clean it? In View B: What are the Blue, Red and Green ports. Also, the Purple circle I think is the needle jet that leads to the emulsion tube, but apparently not directly, see the Purple Star in View A. Can it come out. . . .how? Thanks
  2. Here goes...the mystery of Yamaha's carburetors........ 2007 RSTD XVZ1300CT Looking to repair/rebuild from the body/core up, the carburetor(s) of my RSTD. A victim of crappy CA gas and failure to drain in timely manner. Amazing how much crap gummed up everything. The gas here is the precursor for ingredient for superglue......Yes, I have learned my lesson the hardest way imaginable First, the throttle rod and both end seals are considered "NON SERVICABLE" cannot find ANY info anywhere, not even 3rd market support. Not even in the explodable parts diagrams (Revzilla, Partzilla, Chaparral etc.). Anything outside of "rebuild" kits, translates buy new carbs (est. at $1700 via dealer). Discovered this when 5 out of eight butterfly screws rounded out. Used JIS bits, ground off staked end of screws, and all of precautions etc. Enough of the woes.... What years interchangeable (if at all) are the carbs between RSV vs. RSTD. What are the differences (besides CA EPA), or, what does it take to make one work for the other? Then the BIG question is.....are those parts available for first shop repairs? I thank y'all in advance for your replies.............. .
  3. Brakes: Hey guys, I’m brand new to Ventures and of limited mechanical ability, but I need to rebuild my calipers. I just bought a 1987 Venture in good condition except that the last time they parked it (3 years ago), they lost their back brakes on the ride home. Sure enough, when I went to look at the bike, there had been evidence of a leaky front caliper. Thanks to another thread, I learned about the linked braking. So I was planning on rebuilding the rear and left front calipers. But the right front caliper actually looked like it was more likely to be the culprit. The leak puddled on the right side of the bottom of the rim but I don’t remember if the wheel had been angled such that the leak might have crossed through the spokes from the left caliper. Either way, the hand brake works and the pedal does not. Do the front and rear caliper rebuild kits have the same part number? Is there a known good source for the kits? What is considered a good price on these? I think I found kits to rebuild all three(no pistons) for around $100. A bit pricey for some rubber seals and a couple of pins, so that seems about right. Carbs: I siphoned out the 3-year-old gas and have been running Seafoam (about 4 tanks so far) through it. The bike starts, warm or cold, with the choke on. Once warm, I can bring the choke back 1/2 way, but that’s it. I can get it to idle between 800-1200 rpm, but can’t keep it running with the choke off. Even idling (with 1/2 choke), I have to give the throttle a little feather before taking off or maneuvering at parking lot speeds. I know very little about carburetors. Should I start by trying to adjust the idle? Is balancing the carbs something I can do myself? Thanks for the help.
  4. My bike was backfiring on deceleration way too much and with the 4-2-4 nasty boys installed was worse and louder, after reading the simple instructions of this website plugged the AIS and voila what a difference !!!!!!!!!! I still have some but improved about 80% I will need to synchronize my carburetors but before I buy anything I will try to see how is done just want to say thanks to the group the info here is priceless !
  5. Having trouble getting the cables off 1983 Venture so i can take the carburetors of for cleaning. Does anyone have any ideas. Thanks Dave
  6. Did somebody knows where is the best place to get diaphragms and jets for the RS 1997 carbs? Thanks
  7. Hello, I just purchased the Morgan Carbtune Pro and will soon attempt (first) to synchronize the carburetors on my 2006 RSTD which has almost 8,00 miles and is experienced some occasional back fire and pops on deceleration. Before attempting this work I need to clear up some confusion about doing this work. Thanks Subject: Seeking Clarification Reference: Article on Synchronizing the Carburetors. (RS Venture and 2006 – Royal Star Tour Deluxe) In this article (page 5) of the text under the lower picture you write, you’ll want to adjust 1 and 2 on the left side and 3 and 4 on the right side of the bike (again when sitting on the seat). These adjustments are made with a #2 Phillips screwdriver from the right side of the bike. My comment…aren’t the adjustment to carb’s 1 and 2 made from the right side of the bike looking through the V of the engine to the left bank of carburetors. Isn’t the same adjustment to carb’s 3 and 4 made in a similar way from the left side of the bike (not right side) looking through the V of the engine to the right bank of carburetors using the long #2 Phillips screwdriver? In the picture (top – page 7) where the text indicates [Here is the screw for synching both sides together]. It is accessed from the left side, just above the choke knob. This is a hex head screw with a slot for a screwdriver. On my 06 RSTD this screw is located on the right side of the bike or am I confused on the location of these adjustment screws and their physical location. Thanks for your input.
  8. Carburetor fuel leak. I have an intermittent or random fuel leak (R/S) from carburetor, #3 or #4 air vent hose on a 2006 Yamaha RSTD. Sometimes I can ride for 50 miles before it leaks and other time less than 7 miles. I have tried a can of Sea Foam without success. At idle there has never been a fuel leak problem… only occurs at road speed. The Yamaha owner’s manual indicates the carbs are Mikuni type BDSR32 X4. I have been unable to locate any information on these units on the Internet. What do these numbers mean and how do I find out the type of carburetors I have on this motorcycle. Any suggestions to solve this “nagging” fuel leak problem without removing the carburetors (a last resort) would be appreciated. Thanks – 2 Flights
  9. I came across this information in the April, 2009, issue of Motorcycle Consumer News. I am posting this response in it entirety because I thought it would be useful for just about anyone fighting problems getting a smoothly running carbureted bike. The answer that follows was in response to a question from someone who had several older (carbureted) bikes that do more sitting than riding, and he was having problems with carburetor fouling: Answer (transcribed in full): "[G]asoline deterioration is indeed a problem, one that has gotten much worse than it once was over the last few years. The most recent fuel reformulation has now resulted in fuel going stale in just a few weeks. As I understand it, the problem is fuel separation. The oxygenating compounds being used in gasoline are the primary culprits and not the alcohol (ethanol or methanol). The oxygenates and octane enhancers either separate or evaporate quickly, leaving the gummy, jet blocking and float sticking residue behind in just a few weeks' time. Traditional fuel stabilizers (as you have experienced) do not work well (if at all) with the current oxygenated fuels. Until a new fuel stabilizer is produced that deals with this new fuel formulation, I do not have a good solution for prevention beyond riding as often as you can and topping off the fuel at every opportunity. I do have a few suggestions for folks dealing with clogged carbs. If the bike has been sitting, drain the fuel from the float bowls prior to starting. This will help prevent sucking the gunk into the jets. If the jets are clogged or restricted, Yamaha Carb Dip and Cleaner (ACC-CARBC-LE-NR) can be dispensed into the carbs through the fuel line. Crank the engine to draw the cleaner into the jets, then let it sit for several hours and, afterward, drain and refill with fresh fuel. This process will work if the carbs aren't too badly clogged. You can repeat the process, allowing the cleaner more time in the carbs or disassemble the carbs for direct cleaning. (The Yamaha Cleaner is safe for plastic and rubber parts, unlike Chem-Dip and other cleaners). K&L Supply Co. offers a Carb Jet Wire Cleaning tool (35-3498) available online and through most bike shops. The tool helps clear clogged jets, especially non-removable styles found in your Amal and many older Keihin carbs." Background: The information was in response to a question in the Downtime Files section of the magazine. The masthead identifies the author as Matthew Wiley, an "AMI Certified mechanic. Since 1985 I’ve specializing in touring bikes, worked as tech, managed various dealerships in southwest Ohio from ’85 to 2000. Served as an instructor and technical trainer for MMI (Motorcycle Mechanics Institute) from 2000–2005, and since 2005 I’ve done Internet sales, motorcycle service, technical writing & powersports business consulting. In 2007, I switched to Operations Manager for a racing suspension company and served as AHRMA Vintage Road Race Support." I personally know nothing more about Matthew Whiley than that, but I have a huge respect for the quality of information published in Motorcycle Consumer News. Goose
  10. Hi All With the air pressure set as high as possible the front end will still bottom out when going over some bumps. I’m assuming I need new fork springs. Is this correct? The carburetors were supposedly rebuilt, but on the left side there is gas running out of the drain hose. I don’t know much about carbs, any ideas on what would cause this? Thanks Al
  11. Just posting this info for general information - no particular reason (all comments below apply to the US49 models, I did not look at the CA models): I spent some time comparing the Yamaha parts breakdown for the carburetors on various years and models of the Royal Stars. The most interesting and puzzling fact I found is that ALL Royal Star VENTURES have three different sized main jets between the four carburetors! Cylinders 1 & 2 use a #122.5 jet, Cylinder 3 uses a #117.5 jet, and Cylinder 4 uses a #120 jet. To complicate this explanation a bit further, each carb shows three different jets that are labeled as "Jet, main," of which two are always the same in all four carbs, but the third one is different! For example, the parts breakdown for an 05 RSV shows item 26 as Jet, main #85, item 27 as Jet, main #140, and item 29 as Jet, main #120 (UR #4), #117.5 (UR #3), and #122.5 (UR #1,2). Confused yet? I am. The maintenance specifications in the shop manual only shows one main jet (with the different sizes for each cylinder), so the other two that the parts breakdown lists as main jets are misnomers. The part numbers for the carburetors on the Venture have changed several times (99-04 same part number, 05-07 same part number, and 08 another new part number), but the jets are identical on all of them. I did not try to look close enough to find out what parts did change with the new carb part numbers. The RSTDs have a different carb part number than the Ventures, but the jets are identical. The other Royal Star models BEFORE the Venture all used the same main jet size in all four carburetors. In 1999, the Royal Star Boulevard, Tour Classic, AND Tour Deluxe all used 4 #117.5 main jets, but the 1999 Venture was the first one to use the three different jet sizes. For the life of me, I don't have a clue why the two left cylinders should use the same jet size, but each of the right side cylinders has a different size (one larger and one smaller)??? But they do. Wish I had an exhaust gas analyzer; if I did, I would play around with seeing what happened if I set them all the same size. Goose
  12. Carburetor maintenance I have used this procedure for over 15 years on all types of carburetors from lawn mowers to high performance cars and have always had good results as long as the carburetor was in good mechanical order. Cleaning the carburetors will not help a carburetor with a worn nozzle or a leaky diaphragm on a slide. The carburetor cleaner I use is berryman b-12 chemtool in the spray can and the pint size can, but any good carburetor cleaner should work if you can get it in a spray and pint can. Cleaning the carburetors Place the bike on the center stand and remove the cover of the air cleaner and the filter exposing the top of the carburetors, start the engine and open the throttle to make sure the slides are all moving; if one or more of the slides fails to move you may have a broken diaphragm or a clogged jet. Use the spray can to clean the insides of the carburetors spraying into the jets at the top and the throat of the carburetors . If the engine stalls restart and continue until it looks clean. Replace the filter and cover, now turn the gas tank valve to the off position and restart the engine and run it until it stops. Remove the supply hose (top hose) from the fuel pump and replace it with a suitable sized hose long enough to reach the ground and put it into the pint can of cleaner. Now turn the key on and allow the fuel pump to fill the carburetors before trying to start the engine. (note the fuel pump has a safety feature and you may have to turn the key off and on until the pump fills the carburetors) Start the engine using the choke to keep the engine running about 1000 rpm and allow it to run for about 5 min., then go get a cup of coffee or clean the outsides of the carburetors to use up the can of spray, waiting about 20 min. Restart the engine and (*) use the throttle to increase the rpm and work all the moving parts of the carburetors, the run for 4 min. and wait for another 20 min. if you used the spray on the outside of the carburetors be sure to re- oil the moving parts with a light machine oil and if all of the slides worked when you tested them you can re connect the fuel line while your waiting. when the time has past you can turn the gas valve to the on or reserve position and open the drain valves on the carburetors (lower right on each carburetor) when the carburetors are empty close the valves and turn the key on to fill the carburetors with fuel. also if you are storing the bike for the winter you could drain the carburetors and not restart the engine. (*)IF one or more of the slides did not move when you tested them you should re-test them at this time by removing the air cleaner cover and filter and watching the slides. If one of them are still not moving, note the problem slide and turn off the engine. Remove the cover plate and inspect the diaphragm then carefully remove the spring and slide from the carburetor. Before continuing we suggest you use eye protection. You will see a jet in the upper right side of the opening place the nozzle of the spray can against this jet cover the opening with your hand so that the excess spray won't get in your eyes and give it a good shot; cleaner should come out of the top of the carburetor. if it seems clear then wipe off the slide and the hole it came out of and reassemble the slide making sure that you replace the diaphragm exactly as you found it! Fred J. Vogt Throttle cables The throttle cables on the Venture can cause you some grief if they brake on your vacation or even on a 100 mile Sunday ride if your 50 miles from home. There are four cables that are used to control the carburetors and they use a push/pull method; that is they use a positive return on the throttle that dose not rely on the return spring to shut down the carburetors. there is a fifth cable that is used by the Venture curse which will disable the curse if it fails. all five cables connect together at the control box and you can view it by looking up behind the left hand fairing at the front of the bike. I have not found a way to replace these cables with out removing the left fairing, radio and the black plastic shield behind the radio. This could be done with the tools in the tool kit supplied with your Venture, so you could repair the cables if you had a spare. Although any of the five cables could brake, most of the failures I have heard of are the two cables that connect the hand throttle to the control box. these cables normally fail at the hand throttle on the handle bars because they are worked more and are exposed to water and dust, more then the ones at the control box because the cables are in side. If the return cable brakes it will not stop you, but you will notice that the Engine will lose RPMs slower than normal and the hand throttle will feel funny. Maintenance of the cables is simple and should be done every 10,000 miles or once a year. To check and oil the throttle cables disassemble the hand throttle, clean and use A drop of light machine oil (sewing machine oil) work it in and reassemble the throttle. Just in case you have a problem before you get a chance to check the cables here are some thoughts on how to get home or to a repair shop. You could use the choke lever to increase the RPMS then get the bike over 35 mph, set the curse and use it to increase your speed. You could also get the MTS towing package offered through MTA and be only a phone call away from help. Fred Vogt MTA 1037
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