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Found 5 results

  1. I have an '87 with only 10'000 miles on it! Over its lifespan there have been several multiyear periods when it's sat idle due to persistent maintenance issues. Here is the latest. I drove it in June for approx. 10 miles and it ran fine. A few days later it "got sick"! It always starts, but when I tried to accelerate, it was exhibiting symptoms of only running on three cylinders. When I removed the air cleaner, only 3 of the sliders were moving. I've heard a lot about bad diaphragms, as well as other issues so here's what I've done (over the past 8 months). I thought that it may be a case of old gas so I initially gave it the Sea Foam treatment. No improvement. Although I couldn’t see any holes in the diaphragms, I didn’t want to leave any stone unturned so I have purchased several new diaphragms as well as slider/diaphragm kits. Just in case there was a problem with an old needle, I found a source and bought 3 new ones.($$$$$) Throughout the past 8 months I have turned it into a frustrating pastime of routinely mixing and matching sliders, diaphragms and needles to try to find a combination that would work. Here I have to emphasize that all through this process all I’ve managed to do is move the problem! The bike always starts with no hesitation but (even after it’s warmed up) it won’t respond to any acceleration. Incidentally, in order to try to minimize my efforts, I have just been juggling parts on the right two carbs only. In essence, I can get either the right front carburetor to act normal OR the right rear, but not both simultaneously. Here it is December and not only is it past riding season in New England but it’s also too cold to pursue this problem anymore in an unheated garage until Spring. Meanwhile, if anyone has any suggestions about something I haven’t tried yet, I’d sure like to hear it and I’ll take it into consideration when I resume trying to fix this problem in the Spring. It sure eats my heart out to own a bike that is mint physically but sick mechanically.
  2. Its funny. I go around to Napa, Autozone, and O'Rieley AutoParts... and no one has the K&N HP1005... 1004 and 1006, but NOT 1005, SPECIAL ORDER. Lovely, none the less Amazon has come thru, for 11.92, its coming this Saturday (Prime shipping) so this Saturday, I'll be doing a oil change, oil filter swap, spark plug swap, and maybe if I man up. A check of my diaphragms; I'll go with just... doing the on bike carb cleaner trick. Its mostly a lot of hope, the sliders, and diaphragms, I can't do anything with if they're busted, and I'm guessing the sliders are fine--the bike starts, and go its whole tank just fine--but the sliders are injured... and noticable scaring was evident on them when we had the carbs off for checkage during the whole three month snafu, and actually don't slide as GRACEFULLY as they should... so new sliders, new diaphragms hopefully next month, or the month after. Though I will point out, the diaphragms were actually FINE then. So hmmm. Though anyone got any info if I could use OTHER slides than the ones that come with the diaphragms on Ebay (VMAX slides)? some sliders are shiny metal........ So thats the plan..... now all I need to do is fine a nice size rubbermaid bowl for top ramen with sliced sausage this saturday while I work. but none the less... WHY IS THE K&N HP1005 A SPECIAL ORDER?!?!?!?!?! Oooh, should I stick with the NGK spark plugs, the DPR8EA-9 NGK is what I got in my memopad for spark plugs (and X24EPR-U9?) Oil if anyone asks, was thinking of 15w40, 50/50 blend from our local motorcycle dealer. --And if anyone wonders, K&N HP1005 is the screw on oil filter that fits on the Rivco Screw on Oil Filter Adapter. Took me a hour to find that... I think I use a jump from a NAPA number... or was it FRAM?
  3. I'm looking to buy brand new sliders, and diaphragms, I know where to get the diaphragms, but most of the places to get sliders it appears they COME with diaphragms. And don't appear to be removable for me to add new diaphragms that look a lot different than the floppy sloppy ones I've gotten with the sliders+Diaphragm sets.
  4. Can someone tell me where to order the slides for a 1 gen at a far price? Thanks Yoop
  5. This was originally submitted to me years ago when I had a forum for the Honda Shadow. No reason why it wouldn't work on the Venture also. Polishing the Lower Forks All right, you've added all those chrome accessories to your bike and you look at your lower forks (sliders) and you want to spiff them up. Whether you just don't like that dull, swirling, satin pattern &/or you have nicks and/or scratches - you want them to gleam like the rest of your bike. You find out that to chrome them is not only expensive but you won't be riding for nearly a month (maybe more) because you will have to remove them and send them out. Can't handle the expense or the down time? You can polish them to a lustrous sheen - almost chrome like. This is manual/hand labor - quite a few hours. Your hands will get real tired. If you want a perfect job/end result, you'll wind up spending two afternoons doing it. Plan on a total of 5 to 8 hours, depending on your endurance and what shape your sliders are in before you begin. Road nicks and scratches will be sanded out and require extra time. (Mine were nicked up - this is what prompted me to do this.) Some people have told me they used a Dremel. I did not. My theory was that the Dremel sanding drum is a cylinder and so are the sliders - minimal contact points - most likely leading to furrows and ridges. Even on a flat surface (like the brake reservoir cover) the Dremel will sand in uneven rows/furrows. An orbital palm sander will finish a flat surface much better. This is not the case when doing the sliders. So, I opted for hand sanding, curling my fingers around the sliders and going at it with a graduation of finer grits. You start off with dry sanding and coarse grit, working up to wet sanding and finer grits to achieve a silky smooth finish. It's that simple in theory - and it works - but you have to put a lot of manual labor into it. I am not trying to talk you out of it. I am a realist and want you to know this is not a quick fix. Yet, it's worth it and comes out looking great! You have a few options to make your work easier. You have to remove the fender because there is no clearance to sand between the fender and the sliders. Once you do that, you are free to follow the procedure listed below. You could remove the sliders (but that's a pretty big job!) so you can work on a bench (faster and easier). I only removed the fender, got my camping stool and went at it. You also could apply a (toxic) stripper (now, now) to remove the clear coat from the sliders but I did not want the mess and any possible damage to the rims or spokes. To remove the fender, here is a hint from my mech. Jack up the bike to raise the front end, remove the wheel and use a scissors jack to push/seperate the forks to a wider position (don't over do it, just enough) to allow the fender to come out easily - w/o scraping/scratching the paint. Don't tweak the forks out of shape and damage them - you only need a little extra clearance supplied by the scissors jack! All that said, here's what I did: Starting off with DRY SANDING: 3M Aluminum Oxide for metal 1) medium grit - # 100 - to remove clear coat & smooth out nicks/scratches 2) fine grit - # 230 - to lessen marks of the 120 & the last of nicks/sratches Proceed with WET SANDING (get a pail of water) 3) medium grit - # 400 - really work it, eliminate nicks/scratches and all previous dry sanding marks - only now see #400 abrasions. 4) medium/fine grit - #600 - you're heading for the finish, smoothing it out 5) fine grit - # 800 - keeps getting easier, you are attaining a finished surface 6) finishing grit - #1200 - now you are getting the silky/final surface Optional step: Rubbing Compound (yeah, I'm a perfectionist) 7) tearing up an old T-shirt, creating a "shoe shine boy's" cloth, liberally apply compound to cloth, wrap it around the slider, and pull back alternately on the ends to work the complete surface of the slider to a "glass" smooth surface. Polish the sliders (your choice, Mother's or Simichrome or whatever shines best) 8) using a clean section of that T-shirt, apply polish (I used Mother's) and work that "shoe shine" rag over the complete surface of the sliders. When you stand back to admire your work, you'll be amazed. You'll forget about all the cursing of me that you did. You'll grin or laugh or say something out loud - it'll look that good - and you'll forget how tired your arms and hands are. The jury is still out for me on whether or not to apply a paste wax to the sliders to protect them. I did not. Other people told me that they did. I feared the wax would discolor my labors over time. I did my sliders in December of 98. Five months later and three or four washings, they still look great and shine. I am a low maintenance type of guy as far as cosmetics go. I ride, I don't spend time washing/polishing. I keep my bike garaged and covered - which helps a great deal. I ride to work whenever I can but it's a short commute (darn). I ride every other weekend because I have my kids every other weekend - so I average about 400 miles on those weekends. I mention all this so you understand why I did not put wax on the forks and why I wash the bike only once a month. Hope all this helped and you are completely happy with your polished forks/sliders! I am sure you will be. I hope the maintenance is little and you get to ride that shining beast a whole bunch! Happy motoring... Submitted by Crazy Charley
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