Lassesand

Hello Brenner! I would get a new windshield (the are usually quite scratched and/or opaque), fit heated grips (Oxford Adventure type), do the starter mod (better earth inside the motor), service the final drive (lubricating and changin oil), replace the plastic bushings in the suspension linkage to bushings made of bearing bronze, fit a new IgniTech TCI together with a new vacuum sensor, service/replace all chassis bearings (wheels, swing arm etc), fit a resistor to the battery-acidlevel-sensor (stops the warning lamp from blinking), replace forksealings (AllBalls are good) and fit rubber gaitors, fit new brake seals (both master and slave) and pads. That's the first fixes that comes to my mind. Besides from that do the ordinary stuff as change all fluids, fit new tires, clean&adjust the carbs, change fuel filter, fit new sparkplugs (Iridium). I have two XVZ1200 from 1984 and try to maintain the in a good working order. Good luck and merry X-mas!

Hello guys, I'm using the sparker on my two XvZ1200 from 1984. I'm using a 1 bar map sensor connected to #2 port. Compared to the orginal TCI (that works except it drops #2 cylinder under 1500 rpm) the bike starts a bit slower and has problems around 1500 rpm. Seems to drop out a pair of cylinders. Also when hot tends to rise the idle towards 1500 rpm but quite quickly losers it to 1000 rpm. My idea is that either I have a bad ignition map or is the sparker faulty. I will test sparker number to I reciewed yesterday but I want o be sure I have a good map for the ignition. I'll test the one I got from ignitech; "v-max old venture" but is this the best? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have had problems with the stator wire grommet. Took a couple attempts with a lot if cleaning an silicone sealer but I stopped the leak! It was after I replaced the old stator (burnt) with a new. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/05/y8anegat.jpg Finished and tested for about 250 km. Runs an rides sweet!

Thanks Venturous!!

I did move the needle slightly so no it shows the correct speed but only above 60kph. I can live with that.

My son is turning up new buschings in a lathe for the suspension linkage. I have bought bearing bronze to replace the oem plastic.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/15/ne4a2u2a.jpg This is an overview. Three of the bikes are mine and five belongs to my son. Size of the ws is 6x14 meters.

Thanks! The workshop is new so that explains part of the relative good order. The concrete floor is painted with a very good 2-pack paint that makes it easy to keep clean.

I sprayed the tank- and side covers with professional clearcote. It looks nice from a distance and is an alternative if you don't want to repaint.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/3ytyjaha.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/21/uhezaju4.jpg The lower flexible hose had a stop that I removed with a wire! Now the clutch is OK! Thanks a lot!

Ok, thanks! I'll test that!

You referr to the part of the line connected to the slave cylinder?

I have no leaks in the system. The clutch is not slipping but the pull is really heavy. I suspect that someone might have put in heavier springs in the clutch. I think that as long as the plaste in the clutch are ok there should be no need for stronger springs. On one of my TR1.:s (xv1000 -81) I had bad clutch slipping but new friction plates fixed that. I kept the old springs after checking their free lenght. Besides from being heavy there is a lot of friction while pulling the lever as if the seals are sticking to the cylinder(-s).

Now I have changed the seals in both ends (master and slave), new fluid added, leverpivot greased. Still there is a lot of friction pulling the lever. Some of it goes away if you pull the clutch a couple of times but is back again after a while. The pushrod seems to be good and straight. Perhaps the clutch itself if worn and/or dirty? The springs might be replaced because I think I have tu pull much harder compared to my golden VXZ12 (same model & year). OEM seals could perhaps be of better quality as well (non OEM seals now). Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk