P-roy

I had the same issue a few years ago. The issue on my bike was a bad seal where the shift shaft goes through the trans. The seal was binding on the shift shaft. I was leaking small amounts of oil also from that bad seal. My shifter got to the point I had to manually pull it back between shifts. Might want to check that out. Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk

This sending unit has a single wire with only one conductor, so fairly confident that wire(s) are not reversed. From what I can tell it grounds via the mounting bolts and has a single wire to complete the circuit. I checked out the part number on the sending unit I bought and it is not for a Royal Star. The physical demensions of the unit are identical and bolted in place in the pan just fine. The single wire was only about half the length. I had to make an extension so it could plug it in. So right now I am thinking my old unit was bad, and that this unit works in reverse from my original. At least that is what I am going with for now, and if correct would make my life easier with a small lesson learned to verify the part number and not just take the sellers word. I found another unit on fleabay that is listed as being the correct part number for my bike, and the photo shows a much longer wire. I looks correct and shoud be here this weekend. The repacement should be fairly quick this time around and fingers crossed that this works. It doesn't make sense to me that the computer would be the issue, as the circuit should be complete or not complete to turn the light on or off and I am not sure how the computer would make the mechanical completion of the circuit reversed. Regardless I am not dismissing any option at this point as I am pretty confused as to what is happening. Time to tear the old unit open and see how it works and if the float is in fact bad. Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk

All the Yama stealerships around here want $167.xx for a new one. Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk

One other bit of info, the NOS sending unit wiring was only about half the length of my original. This added to the time to get the new one installed. The sending unit has only one wire and would appear that it grounds via the mounting bolts? That is how the oriignaly was also. While the guy I bought the unit from said it fit my bike, I did not check part number (dumb me), but other than the shorter wire, it appear identical. Could it be possible that the unit I have works in reverse of my original? Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk

So the saga continues. I finally got some time to put in the NOS sending unit. I pulled the old sending unit out and watched as oil drained outof the pan. I leaned the bike on its right side and the oil stopped. Several hours later (following the wire from the senidng unit to where it plugged into the harness was difficult) I had the NOS unit installed. Stood the bike up and turned on the key, the oil light did not come on. I had thought it woud come on as I had not added any oil back to the bike yet. However I did lean it on its side before all the oil drained out so I assumed there was enough in the bike to make the light go out yet still not show in the oil level site glass. Started adding oil to the bike, the light flickered on and stayed on. With the oil level now showing in the middle of the sight glass, I once again have a constant on oil light. Odd thing is if I ride and get on it in 1st or 2nd gear the light goes out while I am accelerating. Back off the throttle and the light comes on and stays on. Just the opposite of what I would expect, almost like it is working in reverse I really have no idea what is going on. The only other thing that is odd is when this first started happening I had ridden for awhile during the day and the oil light was off as normal. Parked the bike in the drive and when I turned the key on next morning the light was on and has stayed on since. I and other have had some vandalism in the area with our vehicles during the night. When it first happend I suspected maybe someone had done something to the bike, but I could not find anything messed with and everything else appears normal. Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk

I found NOS for $38. Arrived this evening, hope to put it in tomorrow. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the replies. I was thinking the same thing about the float part. When it was out of the bike and working, then worked for a brief period when back in the bike before failing. It really seemed like the float was, well failing to float just like a carb float with a pin hole. I just ordered a new sensor, should be in by the weekend. We shall see. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Took a ride a few days ago and had a great time. Next morning got on bike, turned on key, the oil level light came on and stayed on. Started her up anyway and the light stayed on. Turned her off and did a few checks. No obvious leaks, Oil level seemed correct (halfway in site glass). Started her back up and light stayed on. Took her for a ride, no obvious noise and all seemed fine, but light will not go off. Have changed the oil and filter since then and only a couple of very short rides, but the light stays on. Filled her over full on oil just to see if light would go off, no luck. Removed the oil level sensor from the pan, but did not disconnect the wire. Turned key on and with the oil sensor upright as it would be in the bike, shook it a little and light stayed on. Turned it upside down and shook and the light went off. Sprayed some carb cleaner in the holes in the unit and drained her out. Tried it again with the key on and shaking and turning the sensor rightside up and upside down. Light went on and off as expected a couple times then stayed off. I gave up trying to test it and put it back in. Started the bike back up and the light came on for a second, flickered and went off. I was just about to call her good and take her on a ride and the light came back on. Stays on all the time if the key is turned on. I am suspicious that the sending unit is bad or the wire to it is bad. So maybe when I had it out of the pan and the wire pulled our of it's routing, it may have caused whatever wire issue is going on to be masked (not grounding or a bend in the wire was not straight....) Not sure if there is a definitive way to test the sensor. Any ideas out there. Maybe I should just order a new sensor and call it good. So I guess I should say the bike is a 05 RSTD with about 60K.

Really was hoping to make it this year but have been sick. Just not feeling well enough to ride, so I am really sick. Hope everyone is having a great time and will be there next year. Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

2 of us panning to be there. Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Put us down for 2 if still available. I will send PayPal to Black Owl. P-roy Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Already on my calendar. Great area for riding and lots of attractions, should be a great time. sent using tapatalk

I have a 2005 RSTD. Bought it used with a Mustang seat. Was fine for a couple of hours. Put the stock seat on and really not much difference, just pain in a different spot after a couple hours. Sold the Mustang and bought a Corbin. A little better for me after a 2 hour ride but multi days were a real pain. Wife did not like it at all. Sent the stock seat to Russell and have never looked back. Longest day was about 14 hours. Longest trip was 5300 miles in 7 days. 6 years in that seat and not a single day of discomfort in the saddle. The Russel Day Long has my vote, but everyone is different. sent using tapatalk

Add 2 more to the count. The wife and I, noticed I put her first.

Just getting home from a work and saw this. Glad to hear all is well. And if the treatment makes ya good as new, isn't that better that before:). Prayer for the good news and continued recovery.