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  1. I'm having a hard time finding where I have some fuel seeping from after using the choke to start on cold mornings. I do have significant cracks in the rubber intake manifolds that I suspect my be letting the fuel weep through, and the leak is up high. Any thoughts?
  2. I have a kinda weird problem with my '09 RSV. It sat for 2 months and the bat died on the start attempt today when my friend who was storing it went to drive it back to me. Then when he got it running, it stalled out a couple of times and he thought he ran out of gas. He topped up the gas and got it to my house finally but as he came off the highway it started to run rough again. So much so that it would only stay running with full choke and any attempt to add power would cause the bike to die. I drove my buddy home in my car and when I got home 2 hours later, I tried the bike again and it fired right up with choke. However, any attempt to take the choke off and it would die. Also, as the bike warmed up, it started running rough, even with choke on. It almost sounds to me like it's missing on a cylinder or two, but I have little experience with this V4. All my previous bikes were twins. The bike was bought new in May and only has about 3000 miles on it. I was thinking that maybe it picked up some bad gas and the carbs are gummed up? Maybe run some Seafoam through them? I can't drive it right now due to a busted ankle, but if i have to I can get the dealer to pick it up. It's got the warranty after all. Hmmm... i just had a scary thought... is it possible that when my friend boosted the battery, he could have maybe fried the ignition module? Anyone ever heard of this happening with the RSV? I don't recall any specific warnings against it in the owners manual or on the battery compartment lid.
  3. I need to fix the turn signal switch and check the contacts it's sticking something fierce. But am unable to get the choke lever removed so I can split the lever assembly? Ideas? Won't pull off, don't see any screws? Baffled. Thanks.
  4. I have an 89 VR I have been trying to get running. I am have trouble getting the carbs synched. I can get them all the same, but only 4-5 inches of vacuum running smooth, but poor throttle response, or one side at 10 inches but zero on the other side,with smooth idle but usually dies with throttle movement. If I nudge the choke just a hair I can get all 4 to 10 inches with good throttle response. If I release that small amount of choke the idle slows and it stalls. Any insights on what to check. BTW good gas, new fuel pump and filter, new plugs,air filter, carbs cleaned and new battery.
  5. I have a strange problem with the choke on my '83 VR. I had to add throttle when I tried to start it and then discovered that the choke did not increase RPMs as it normally does. The choke part seemed to work as it stalled the engine when I applied full choke. No matter what position I tried the choke the RPMs though never changed. I checked all the linkages and all seemed to be operating properly. I had rebuilt the bike several years ago (with much VR.ORG help) so am familiar with most operations. Perhaps I don't know exactly how the enrichment system works? Does the choke move the throttle to increase RPMs or is the enrichment function supposed to increase RPMs? If I apply the choke and move the throttle slightly, I can get it started. It ran just a few days earlier but seemed to have a problem getting up to speed. Don't know if these are related problems or not. I checked all the links that referred to choke problems but did not find any that related to my specific situation. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Pinetum
  6. Hey all. It's been a while. Been riding too much to spend time in front of the computer! I think I have a problem. Went out to go for a ride this afternoon, and out of the blue, she wouldn't fire. ('07 RSV) Always fires on the first crank. I pulled the choke out all the way, and if I cranked it a while, she'd finally catch and idle real slow. If I touched the throttle or choke, she stalled. Then I started replaying my actions in my mind, and realized I never heard the fuel pump clicking. Off with the seat and side panel. Tapped on the pump with my fingertip, and when I turned on the ignition, the pump ran like the carbs were clear empty. Now it seems fine. Starts and runs like new. Is my pump trying to tell me something? Do they give warning before they fail? This was a New Old Stock bike, that might still be under warranty. Will the dealer replace the pump because I said it was having a fit? Looks like my Christmas road trip is out the window. Thanks for any help and opinions. Bert
  7. I've had some issues with my RSV cutting off since I got some bad gas. I've run a couple bottles of Seafoam through and I just changed the fuel filter. It will start fine with the choke open but if I don't let it warm up it will die going down the street. Once it dies it will start right back with the choke open again. Lat night I was on the interstate and it quit. I pulled in the clutch and let it out a couple times and it started back up. It just seems strange. Would a fuel pump go out a little at a time like that? I've been through a number of tanks of gas since the bad tank and I still get the same stuff. Any ideas?
  8. Is there a way to adjust the choke on 96 Royal Star? Mine looks to be closing the right carbs but not all the way on the side carbs. I am talking about the little plunger that the linkage bar hooks over. I actually need a new choke handle cause mine is busted.
  9. So, even though I'm still shopping I'm also getting ready for as soon as I find my new RSV. I've been reading the owner's manual, (not really something I normally do, but I'm rather excited about the Venture) and came across a couple of things I don't understand..... Choke "The time necessary for starter (choke) use depends upon the ambient temperature. Temperatures above 10 °C (50 °F) require about 7 seconds of starter (choke) use and temperatures below 10 °C (50 °F) require about 35 seconds with the starter (choke) turned on, then about 2.5 minutes with the starter (choke) in the halfway position." My last bike was fuel injected, but I wanted to ask if these times are really about right? I know some bikes need more choke than others, some can even start without any choke (I had a RoadStar that almost never needed any choke at all), but these just seem like a lot of time...especially the "35 seconds" of idling at full choke. Is this really about normal? If so, isn't that hard on the engine? Shifting points/speeds Shift up points: 1st → 2nd: 20 km/h (13 mi/h) 2nd → 3rd: 30 km/h (19 mi/h) 3rd → 4th: 40 km/h (25 mi/h) 4th → 5th: 50 km/h (31 mi/h) Shift down points: 5th → 4th: 25 km/h (16 mi/h) 4th → 3rd: 25 km/h (16 mi/h) 3rd → 2nd: 25 km/h (16 mi/h) 2nd → 1st: 25 km/h (16 mi/h) Ok, this one has me REALLY confused. Are these speeds even close to being right? I can't believe that they are, and so I don't really understand why the manual gives them??
  10. Hello everyone! I am a proud new owner of a 1997 Tour Deluxe. Clean bike with only 24,000 miles. Previous owner had not ridden the bike in a couple years and according to him he was having carbs issues when he decided to sell it. Told me he had a mechanic come to his home, pull and clean the carbs?? The bike did start easily when I went to check it out, due to the weather, time of day and not being familiar with the area I did not take it for a test ride. I did ride it onto the trailer to bring it home. Now the bike will start and run with full choke, no matter how long I let it warm up it will not run without full choke. Driving down my local rural road it will come up to speed, but does not run smoothly and has some decel popping, not sure how much of this popping is caused by having the choke on? I have some motorcycle carb experience, I have removed and cleaned the carbs on numerous 1100 Honda Shadows and 1100 V Stars, but I have never done anything on a 4 cylinder bike. 1) how hard is it to pull the carbs on this bike 2) any tricks I should know that will save me time and headache 3) anything I should watch out for when pulling the carbs..like springs or screws and such that can pop off or fall out 4) last but now least....Do I really need to pull the carbs??
  11. Hello everyone! I am a proud new owner of a 1997 Tour Deluxe. Clean bike with only 24,000 miles. Previous owner had not ridden the bike in a couple years and according to him he was having carbs issues when he decided to sell it. Told me he had a mechanic come to his home, pull and clean the carbs?? The bike did start easily when I went to check it out, due to the weather, time of day and not being familiar with the area I did not take it for a test ride. I did ride it onto the trailer to bring it home. Now the bike will start and run with full choke, no matter how long I let it warm up it will not run without full choke. Driving down my local rural road it will come up to speed, but does not run smoothly and has some decel popping, not sure how much of this popping is caused by having the choke on? I have some motorcycle carb experience, I have removed and cleaned the carbs on numerous 1100 Honda Shadows and 1100 V Stars, but I have never done anything on a 4 cylinder bike. 1) how hard is it to pull the carbs on this bike 2) any tricks I should know that will save me time and headache 3) anything I should watch out for when pulling the carbs..like springs or screws and such that can pop off or fall out 4) last but now least....Do I really need to pull the carbs??
  12. I finally got home from over the pond and decided with all the warm dry weather to get the 1st gen out. Guess what? it wouldn't run without the choke on. If I tried to rev it up it just died. Bit of history, 86 Venture Royale. 36,000 miles, stock with the exceptions of upgraded fuse block, I put the aftermarket CDI box on it (bought through Dingy). Progressive springs, fork brace. After all the mods last year, I rode it for 18 miles and it ran great. I drained the carbs, put stabil in the gas and it sat until today. I drained the old gas out of the tank and put new in replaced the fuel filter, and tried to fire it up it wouldnt run without the choke on. Today I pulled the carbs, and cleaned them fully, I did find one of the little plugs in the carb on the bottom of the main jet block kind of looking mushy. ( they were new a year ago with a full carb overhaul. (Done by a carb re-builder) I replaced it with a new one from a kit I had left over. I tried it again and the same thing. Pulled the carbs again and made sure everything was good. The diaphrams are new last year, I replaced the plugs, checked for vacuum leaks and bad plug wires didn't find anything wrong. It still wont run without full choke. I even put the known good stock CDI box on and tried it. Still don't work. I am out of ideas to find the problem. I dont use the gas with the ethonol in it. can anyone help? rjjammer
  13. I thought that all 1st Gen Choke Switch are all the same. Located at the bottom of the switch housing. What years are between Switch Housing and the hand Grip?
  14. We just returned from a vacation trip to Oregon for a week and a half. Jumped on the bike this morning, pulled the choke, and started it up. Trouble is that every time I pushed the choke button in the bike died. I filled the tank up just before we left so the gas is fresh. I figure that either the gas was bad from the gas station or my fuel pump is bad. Bad luck for me!
  15. I went for a short (50 mile) ride yesterday and noticed that during the course of the 'trip' the bike seemed to feel more and more "reluctant" to run. A sense of 'hesitation' got more and more pronounced as I rode along. My first reaction was to POWER through it, thinking that maybe I had a temporary condition of some sort brought on by dirt in gas, fouled plug.........bad AIR!!! I was really grasping for 'causes'. But, the more I gassed it, the worse it seemed to get. When I 'backed off' to what the 'normal/neutral throttle grip position' SHOULD have been for the speed I was going......the engine again sounded somewhat erratic and "hesitant" (for lack of a better word). The sensation was similar to what you might get when running out of gas.......but I had just filled up before leaving home......and was showing "all bars" on the gas gauge when I left the driveway. I could almost SEE my gas gauge going down, however, while driving along! I ended up burning what looked like about a quarter of a tank over the fifty miles (80 km). (I was TWO or THREE bars down on the gauge by the time I got home!) YIKES! Being an old-time mechanical type (but not a mechanical genius, by any means), I fiddled with the gas tap while riding along (which did nothing).....and moved the choke button all the way out and back in.........several times.........which, strangely ALSO DID NOTHING!! Shouldn't pulling the choke out have made the bike run "rough"......kinda like the way it was ALREADY RUNNING?? Therefore, my training told me, maybe the choke is stuck ON.....somewhere in the mechanism "beyond the button". When I tried to search this site for a thread on the subject/problem, I came up with http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65183&highlight=choke, where the conversation centered on the OPPOSITE problem....."choke won't come on".....and reference to sticking linkage. Is it possible I have the same cause......but opposite symptoms? Anybody else ever had this problem? Choke stuck ON? Rough running? Horrible gas consumption? (Background info: I HAD just removed/replaced my tank while doing a coolant flush last week. Also, I had just (the day before) removed/replaced my front brake lever in order to lubricate its action and take out some of the play in it. (I took out too much play, apparently, because I notice the cruise control wouldn't stay ON during my ride; but I don't think THIS problem is related to the rough ride/high fuel consumption............IS IT???) Thanks for any hints, tips, tricks!........then get out there and enjoy your Sunday ride!
  16. While working on a friend's bike the other day, he mentioned that the choke wouldn't stay on by itself. After doing some searching on here, I couldn't find an answer as to how to get it to stay on without simply standing there holding the choke knob out. So I decided that there might be others out there with the same problem. Here's the solution. If you lay down on the floor and look up at the choke knob, just behind it(towards the rear of the bike) there is a hex nut that is held in place by a flat thin locking tab. It looks like a very thin flat washer. See picture below. All you have to do is take is a flat blade screwdriver and straighten out the tab that is holding the nut in place. Then with the appropriate wrench or even a pair of plyers, tighten the nut just enough to start holding the choke linkages in place. This shouldn't take tightening but maybe one flat on the nut. Afterwards, bend the tab back over at any place it's most convenient. Now your choke should stay on until you push it back in. Don't over tighten or it will be hard to push back in.
  17. I'm putting in a question for my friend that has a 1987 Venture 1300. His Venture has about 24000 miles and he has had it since new. We have had carb and choke problems. We changed the diaprahms and all of of them are now seated right and the slides are dithering as they should be. However the bike just doen't want to run without right without the choke. We've synched the carbs but it still bogs down under power. The exhaust are runnin hot air not cooler air as it should. Any suggestions would help. We have not taken apart the carbs and cleaned them yet. Dick
  18. I'm trying to get my 84 Venture running properly but so far I can only get a slow idle out of it after it warms up. I have been following the other threads re diaphragms, etc but my question relates to the closed throttle position. When the bike is idling I can retard the throttle or push down on the front carb lever and it closes a little more and the rpm will rise a little. Basically, I run out of idle screw adjustment before it contacts the first carb lever. I loosened the throttle cable adjustment housing and put slack in the cable but the throttle still doesn't seem to close all the way. I would think the throttle plates should close tight when there is no tension on them. I also notice that my full cold choke setting is not complete as I can take a pair of plies and pull on the choke linkage and it will snap further about another 1/16 on an inch but it will still start with the partial choke. I know I have to tune the carbs together but I'm not at that point yet until I get this linkage figured out. I had it running last spring when I went to a "meat and eat" in Jacksonville and one of the guys brought his carbtune but even though it ran fairly well but the vacumn was barely registering. I got home and messed with the carbs and that's where it sat until I started working on it again. I would appreciate any suggestions.
  19. So here's the deal; my '06 RSV seems to enjoy leaving me on the side of the road once or twice a year, seemingly without a warning of more than a few seconds. There's been no consistency as to when it happens. I'd had it gone through shortly after purchase last year as it wasn't running well. A new ignition coil along with cleaning the carbs seemed to turn everything around. A month later I was leaving work, almost cold engine, and before even leaving the lot it sputtered and died. Only way I could get anything out of it was to use full choke and it would seem like it wanted to run but would die within 30 seconds or so. After about 10 minutes of trying, it started cleanly and ran great. A month later I was in traffic on a somewhat warm day and it started sputtering at a light and stalled when I tried to take off. The tank had about 4 gallons in it at the time but wouldn't restart no matter what I did. Had it flatbedded to my local Yamaha dealer and darn if it didn't start immediately They had no idea what had happened, especially since they had so recently serviced it. 14,000 miles and zero problems later it did it to me again 2 weeks ago! This time it was about 80 degrees and I had just come off an expressway running at 60 mph and it died seconds after waiting at the exit light. Again, it started after many tries with choke on full as if it was getting very little gas and the choke was "keeping a balance" on the A/F ratio, and has run great the almost 1000 miles since. I've run Seafoam through it, checked the plugs and they look great. Any ideas? I never have old gas in the tank as I ride so much. Even in winter the tank is kept full with ethanol formula stabilizer in it.
  20. Hey everybodye! Looking forward to MD next weekend. Hope to meet many of you then. Quick question...I've got an 83, and I've noticed that I have to use the choke from a cold start almost all the time. The bike always starts...but if its a "cold" start, or what I mean to say is that the bike has not been started in a day or two, I have to use that choke. At least 3/4 of the way on to full. Quite a bit I think. But like I said the bike starts right up, so I don't have any real complaints. After the engine is run at idle for 2 or 3 minutes, it runs just fine. I'm just curious if this is pretty normal? Or should I be looking into fixing this some how? Thanks all,
  21. My new to me 2005 Venture had been sitting for a few months before I bought it and no suprise two of the pilots were blocked, cold headers after start up, I used some Seafoam at 50% mix but it was a long shot and did not clear the pilots. After reading Freebirds guide to carb removal and buying some 17.5 pilot jets I set to work, it was not as bad as I thought and took me about an hour to pull the carbs fit the 17.5 pilots and put it all back together. I set the pms to 2.5 turns out. She started right up with a little choke and did not need more than a minute to warm on choke, then I went for a test ride, ooooh nice and smooth at low revs, next task will be to balance the carbs but that can wait until next weekend.
  22. I’m looking for some help with a carburetor issue on my 83 VR. The carbs have been off, completely cleaned, jet blocks removed and cleaned, float levels set to factory specs and the low speed jets set to 2.5 turns. I have also installed the needle shim kit from Skydoc_17. Prior to the shim kit the mileage was about 38-39 mpg. The bike was running fine with no issues but the carbs had not yet been synced. Using a Morgan Carbtune, the initial setting showed the #2 carb (rear left) significantly higher than the rest. After adjustment, I was able to balance everything out using the proper procedure. Initial test ride indicated good performance with no issues. A couple days later I rode the bike to work allowing it to warm up only a short time with the choke cracked about 25%. When I took off from the house I left the choke on for about a half mile then shut it off. Within the next half mile the bike appear to be flooding out and dumping some gas out of the overflow on one of the left side carbs. After the engine warmed up completely the flooding seemed to diminish. At lower rpms in 5th you could smell some gas but it was not coming out of the overflow. When I got home I pulled the side covers and put the Carbtune back on to check sync and it was OK. I noticed that there was a slight amount of gas on the top of the #1 and #2 carbs that looked like it was coming out of the air cleaner boot. I then reset the sync to the original setting where the #2 carb was reading higher vacuum and took another test ride. No issues and the gas on the top of the carbs was gone. One thing that I have not done is replace the slider diaphragms. Could this be a contributing factor to this problem or is there something else I should be taking a look at?
  23. I know there are dozens of carb threads, but I'm dealing with a hardly running bike, so I'm trying to narrow it down as much as I can. I bought this bike last year from a friend who never had it running and had it in pieces. I put it mostly back together and replaced the battery and started to try to get it running. It will run with the choke on, but will die if you blip the throttle. You can slowly start winding the throttle more and more until you get it to keep reving up but it never runs right. I ran some B12 carb cleaner through the system, but without being able to ride it, I can't tell if it is helping or not. I removed and plugged off the vacuum chamber and as far as I can tell the carb boots are ok. I pulled the carbs off and removed floats, bowls and diaphrams, and cleaned the bejeebus out of them. This is when I got it running with the choke on.
  24. As some of you already know I bought my bike as a basket case. On my first weekend on it I lost a pin in the shift segment and came 15 miles home in 1st gear. I got it back together after waiting for the parts and went out on Easter Sunday for an 80 mile ride. It ran great. I'm going to put new brake pads in it and do the starter upgrade this weekend and have a few more things to work on. 1st. My choke will not stay engaged on its own. I can give it full choke and it fires right up, but when released the choke rotates off on its own. Is there an adjustment i'm missing or is something just worn out? 2nd. Idle...after my trip home in first gear when I lost my pin in the shift segment it helped my carbs a lot, but now it's idling at about 1100 rpm, what should it be set at? 3rd. Rear air, My bike is a standard and i'm wondering what pressure I should be running it at. I'm 350#s and will be the only person on the bike. Also should this be set with me on the bike or freestanding? 4th and last...for now. Lighting, I am a truck driver and work overnights, I live 30 miles north of Minneapolis. My trip home in the morning is opposite of traffic but a lot of people cross the northbound side to get to the southbound lanes. I'm thinking of some simple driving lights for better visibility but would like to see how those of you who are running them have them mounted. Pics would be helpfull. Thanks to everyone on this site, putting this bike together and getting it into good riding shape has been a breeze with all your help.
  25. My "new to me" 05 RS Midnight Venture would not run off choke when I picked it up a month ago. After draining the old gas, new plugs and running a few tanks with seafoam through it it will now run off choke once fully warmed up. However it's still not right. Takes a long time before choke can be full off, idle is rough, can hear it missing and lacks power right off idle. Once rpm's come up a little it screams. Today I decided to pull the carbs for cleaning. Is there a write up on adjusting the floats (they all seem to be too high) and the mixture screws (they were set from 1.5 to 3.25 turns)? Also anyone have any tips on separating the carbs to make it easier to disassemble for cleaning? Thanks
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